Ford A/C :: Pulley Play (wobble) / Awful Noise Under The Hood But Not Constant
Sep 27, 2009
I have been hearing on occasion (not constant) an awfull noise under the hood. Even when I turn on the ac it doesn't change the depth of sound. I took the belt off and spun the idler pulley, tensioner, and ac pulley. When I spun the ac pulley I notice quite a bit of play (wobble). last summer sometimes I needed to give the clutch a bit of persuasion in order for it to kick in. Is this play (wobble) in the pulley normal? I've never had to replace an ac clutch so I don't have any experience to go on.
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I have a 2012 Camry LE 4 cylinder non-hybrid at 31,000 miles. I was changing the oil yesterday and noticed a repetitive squeaking noise from the front passenger side of the engine. Upon looking closer, the belt tensioner has a constant wobble. Maybe around 1 cm of deflection with the belt. The AC condenser was running. Is this normal? Do I need to replace the tensioner? If so, what the torque spec is for the main tensioner bolt (pivot bolt)?
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I have a 95 Toyota Celica GT which started making a noise today. It does not seem to increase when the engine is revved. The crankshaft pulley seems to have a slight wobble, belt feels tight, does not appear worn. Does not matter if AC is on or off. No performance issues. I'm thinking harmonic balancer replacement.
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I have a 07 gs350. My car wouldn't start this morning let alone turn on. I heard this constant beeping noise coming from the hood and it was the battery. I unplugged the battery and the noise stopped. But once I plugged it back in the noise came back. I was in a rush to get to work this morning so I just unplugged it and let it sit for a few minutes before plugging it back in to see if it work.. it did not. This battery is only about 1 year old too.
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Okay so in my 99 f150 ecsb 4x4 i believe i spun a bearing. its making an awful noise. I was wondering if it was possible to drop the oil pan while the truck is in the air and change the spun bearing. is this possible to do? with 205,000 miles on it...
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I have 09 ford explorer sport trac and having problem with Traction Control. On take off the light flashes and I have noise coming from the back. (the noises that the book state when trac is on). It doesn't happen all the time on take off but when it does its an awful noise. It will not do it at all if its a rolling stop and drives fine after going???
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I'm going to start tearing into my wife's car this weekend because the bearings are making an awful grinding noise at low speeds, so I feel like this needs to be done soon.
I bought from rockauto new hubs and bearings, but looking at them, it seems like the bearing goes over the outside of a shaft on the hub. Other that than, I'm not really sure how it all goes together until I look.
Just curious as to whether this can be done without a press or any special tools? I have an impact gun and all the sockets one could need, but I don't have a hub puller or bearing press or anything like that.
I've done a bunch of searches but can't seem to really find the answers I'm looking for...
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I just noticed that when I start my car I hear a constant whine sound. When I press on the gas it gets louder. When I'm stopped I hear it whining. What it may be?
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My R has 56k on it. it sat for just over a year and a half and i just got it back on the road a week ago. Two days ago i started it to pull it on my rack and change the oil and it was making a rattling/chattering noise. The noise was going away when i pushed the clutch in but not anymore and the noise goes away in the higher rpm's. on the way home it threw a code and the check engine light came on and with throttle it started making an awful squealing noise. I am kinda scared to drive it.... I guess ill start pulling the motor, transmission or both tomorrow...
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I've had some awful noise coming from the front drivers side of my car. Determining the likly cause to be the wheel bearing, I decided to tackle replacing the hub assembly as a lovely weekend project. Things were going along ok - Removed brake caliper, removed the axle nut (that wasn't fun), removed the rotor (rather persistently stuck on, but it gave in the end), and then came removing the hub assembly itself. Had a rented hub puller, put it on, started tightening it down and tapping on the hub as I went. It was getting pretty tight on there (was starting to worry about the safety of the cv shaft), and then as I tapped on the hub one last time, the hub and hub puller popped off the car... I was elated, until I realized rather than pulling the entire hub assembly out, it had actually separated the inner track of the bearing from the outer track, leaving the wheel bearing and flange behind inside the steering knuckle.
So, here I sit, with half my hub assembly on the ground and the other half still in the car. How to get the rest of the hub assembly out, now that there is nothing to really pull on? I've tapped around on it for a couple hours, and soaked it in enough penetrating oil to make the car flamable, but no give. I've even tried putting the hub bolts back in through the back and tapping on them with a hammer to no avail (probably going to have to replace the bolts now, but one problem at a time).
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad. Just want to see some info on diagnosis.
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad.
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I have had a Clicking noise on my 2000 x 4x4 since 6 months coming from the front right side tire noticeable over rough roads or over bumps and I went on a journey starting with ford dealer to almost all well recognized service centers and every body says your front suspension is ok and no one seems to know where it is coming from. I thought it was my hub bearing since it fails almost every year but when I was changing the bearing, I noticed a big Excessive play in axle.
See video : My AXLE Shaft - YouTube
Also I noticed oil mixed with grease the grease is prawny with a reddish sort of color or that is some thing else.
See photos ....
Any way after replacing the hub Bearing with a used one and butting every thing together I went on a test drive. Noticed that the vehicle drive line is not right the car seems to wonder and the noise still there so i didn't get far i came right back and park my x then a funny burned oil smell was present.
Is it some thing i did wrong or is it bad situation gone worst ?
Items Checked Or Replaced In The Last 4 Months ( trying to fix)
Tie Rods. Ok
ball joints. Ok
suspension front and rear. Ok
Front stabilizer bar. Ok
control arm bushings. Ok
stabilizer bar bushings Ok
steering linkage. Ok
brake pads. A new front set installed
Rotors . Both front changed with oem parts
body mounts + sub-frame mounts. Some replaced
shock absorbers . New 4 set installed
- Rear Monroe 911176 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
- Front Monroe 911175 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
tires. Replaced with a new set off four
Hub Bearing. Second hand (that's when I saw it)
Spare Parts waiting list (Ordered):-
O ring ord part # 4C3Z-1K106-AA
(knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB).
and some other dust seals which i can't recall.
I am looking for how to fix axle play and get red of the noise. (this is a video from you tube for clearance)....
F250 wheel bearing, is this bad or not? - YouTube
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1997 4.6L.. Have an intermittent grinding / dragging noise coming from the pulley (?timing) area that I'm trying to pin down. Both the alternator and tensioner were replaced prior to the noise starting. The ac compressor and the power steering pump are original. The fan clutch was replaced about 4 years ago and the water pump 8 years ago. Timing chain / guides / tensioner are all original.
I don't notice any of the common ps pump indicators (whine increase when steering) but noticed the fluid level was down slightly and that the pulley seems to have some inward - outward play with the belt off. I also don't have any other engine symptoms like rough idle or any codes being triggered. How to isolate the culprit?
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I'm having problems with my 6r140 in my 2011, the truck is an early build around 8/2010 I believe.
After cold soak when shifting into reverse after allowing engine to warm a bit the transmission almost always slams hard into reverse.
After that shifting from 1-3 is awful, the transmission will try to go into 3rd but downshift to 1st then fail to go back into 3rd multiple times. This situation is extremely dangerous when trying to pull into traffic.
Oh and once the transmission gets into 3rd it will skip 4th and go right into 5th. There is only 94k miles on this transmission/truck.
I just bought this truck about a month ago, does this sound like an issue with the solenoids in the valve body?
I'm very mechanically inclined and can swap them if need be but now we're talking few hundred in solenoids and then getting the trucks pcm flashed right?
Also fluid has been changed and I used mercon lv.
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So a few months ago I would occasionally hear what appeared to be a slight squealing noise from a pulley when I started my truck. It was very intermittent, so I didn't think much of it.
After a few weeks, I realized I was only hearing it on colder mornings - it would also go away rather quickly. I bought a mechanic's stethoscope, and figured I'd get to it on a slow day.
Today, I finally broke out the scope and tried to figure out the source. Didn't really find any pulleys making noise, and I did notice that when I shut the truck off, it squeaks for a second or two as it comes to a complete stop.
My dream of finding a bad pulley or perhaps a power steering pump was crushed. I had hoped to do a little Easter wrenching and put this noise to rest. So, I did what any good mechanic would do - I Googled the issue.
I'm reading that it could be the belt. Certainly wouldn't bother me too much as that is an easy fix. The belt isn't too old - about 4 years and 20 - 30K on it.
I took a few pics of the belt and can take a video of start/stop ....
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Unlike Ap24, who has a post/thread about his CONSTANT noise under acceleration, mine is only happening once. For instance say I'm sitting at a stop light, and start accelerating, it's almost like the body shifts backwards. When I come to a stop and jab the brakes a little, its like it shifts forward. My dad seems to think it is the U joint.. but i'm not convinced as it does it on deceleration.
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Couple of days ago I started hearing a wobble noise coming from the right front. Almost sounds like a worn wheel bearing. Driving the car there is no signs of misalignment, and unbalanced wheels. Haven't hit any curbs or large potholes.
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Ford Explorer has been making horrible noise (constant whine when accelerator is pressed)... The mechanic said he found metal in the power steering fluid and told me we need to replace the power steering pump and the rack & pinion system. Is he right about this? He said you can't replace one without the other... I've done a little research and I think we can get away with a new pump.
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Truck is a 2008 F150 5.4 4x4. I changed the spark plugs the other night for the second time. Everything went smoothly. Got the truck put back together and cranked it up afterwards to let it run. Truck ran great, but as the engine temp got up around 150 degrees, I started hearing a very loud ringing sound. I shut off the engine, double checked all connections, removed the belt to rule out accessory drive noise. No luck. The noise stays constant regardless of engine RPM, so I decided to drive it. I found the noise fades away under load, then returns as soon as I let off the throttle. I attached a GoPro to a cross member near the transmission after narrowing the noise down to the bell housing area.
Attached is a link to the video I made : 2008 F150 5.4 Noise - YouTube...
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We've had a lot of rain here in pa lately and i hit a few big puddles the other day and now i have a growl slash wine in the front of my motor,now i narrowed it down to something driven by the bely because I removed the belt and no noise all pulleys feel good and smooth except the ac compressor if you spin it by hand it has a rough/dry feeling and sound to it but the noise doesn't change with the ac on or off its just constant grinding/whine. Replace the ac compressor pulley bearing that what I am thinking it is and don't really want to change out the whole compressor..
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