I think i have a truck with a condenser that has a restriction, how i could prove this with a test or something maybe like a temp test across from the inlet to outlet side...the symptoms are lack of cooling the hotter the temp outside the worse the cooling is also when it rains while I am driving the it fezzes me out....ill post pressure readings later.
View 1 RepliesI noticed my A/C hasn't been up to par. It's not bad when driving but just ok when idling. So today I changed the orfice tube and the accumulator. Vacuumed the sys. down and charged it up, 2 lbs 10 oz. It is worse! the compressor kicks on and off constantly only cooling to 80 degrees.
I noticed the high goes right up to 350 then the compressor shuts off .... 7 seconds later, back on and up to 350lbs and off again. I think the high-pressure switch is shutting the compressor off before anything goes kaboom but why isn't my fan cooling the condenser down? my FSS shows no increase in fan speed. Sitting at 450.
I think I'm going to cool the condenser down with a hose now to see if that works. If so, That would be telling me the fan isn't doing it's job correct?
I have an 05 Prius with 53k miles and the ac just recently stopped working. The blower fan still comes on, but neither the compressor nor condenser cooling fan will come on. I've checked the fuses and relays, and they check out ok. I'm hoping there may be one I missed? It just stopped working with no warning signs. What could be causing this? If the compressor was bad, the condenser fan would still work, right? I'm fearing it's the ac inverter. Do the symptoms match?
View 9 Replies'04 frontier 6cyl, 90k miles. My AC recently started cooling poorly, although still slightly cold, especially at higher rpms. At the same time, I noticed a buzzing noise that changes pitch with rpms and only occurs with ac on. I can hear it loudest from the glove box area, and can't really hear it under the hood. The compressor clutch works fine. With the car off, I can spin the compressor and it feels fine, no noise. With ac on, the low pressure tube gets cold. I hope it's not a bad compressor.
View 9 RepliesI'm going to do a weld-in-plug delete in my RV in the next couple weeks, and its a crapshoot apparently if it'll throw a code. My immediate concern is I want to go on a trip right after, and I won't have time to fiddle about getting an SCT tuner to turn the code off. What I definitely don't want is a code for EGR flow restriction to eventually cause my motor to go into some kind of limp mode while I'm in the middle of a long drive. Is this possible?
View 14 RepliesThis is on my 99 v10 Superduty. What I'm hearing sounds like high pressure fluid passing through a restriction. I only hear it when in drive or reverse while sitting still. The noise goes away once I get moving a couple of miles per hour. It just started making this noise within the last week.
I change the fluid every other oil change (about 6000mi on the last change) and am using M1 Synth in it. I only drive 10min between work and home so it probably barely gets warm. I don't know yet if it there hot. I'll have take it up the hill and back to see if it is temperature related.
Other then the noise it still drives and shifts fine. But it is pretty loud sitting at the drive through window. I'm going to drain it and change the filter this weekend and see how the fluid looks. Any thing else I should look at or other possibilities? I crawled under it last night and I think the noise is coming from the TC.
I have a 2003 F250 Super Duty 5.4L V8 with no heat. It wasn't missing, running funny or blowing white smoke out of the tailpipe and there were no coolant leaks nor did it overheat. Thermostat has been replaced twice, heater core flushed twice, water pump replaced, fan clutch replaced and blend door works...Cabin airflow gets colder when turned from hot to cold. This thing is sitting in my driveway and I am about to push it over a cliff. Did I mention it only has 56,000 miles on it?
Coolant was drained to replace water pump and flush heater core (again, water ran through in both directions with no stoppage). 3 gallons of undilluted antifreeze was put into the overflow bottle to be topped off with water...the coolant went in and stopped. Engine was started to force coolant from bottle...coolant backed up into the bottle and out the top. Heater core inlet hose is hot and outlet hose not very warm if at all. Upper radiator hose is soft. Didn't check lower radiator hose as I was a bit peeved and slammed the hood closed and called it a night. I have been throwing money at this thing that I do not have and am at my wits end with it.
Ac is leaking where the 2 lines go into the condenser. I went to Ford and bought OEM o-rings thinking it would be an easy fix. HA! New o-rings were put in by a mom and pop garage. Still leaking. Guy said it wasn't, but with my uv light I could clearly see the dye. Went to a recommended guy. He took it apart, cleaned the hoses where the o-rings sit. They were kinda dirty from leakage and stuff so he cleaned them up with a wire brush and 2000 grit.
Recharged, and we both looked with his huge uv light. Bad condenser, drivers side lit up like a night light. Replaced the condenser with an aftermarket condenser. Recharged, STILL LEAKING from where the hoses go into the condenser. Vacuumed down the system... Removed hoses, checked o-ring fit. They are snug on the hoses and have some resistance when plunging the hoses back in. What gives? I'm 360.00 into this this week...
I have a 2000 Excursion and it appears the AC lines going into the condenser are leaking. I had a local shop replace them, vac and recharge the system for 96.00. The ac was never really cold, and he used a vac pump and gauges to recharge. He said he thought there was enough refrig in the system for me. I got tired of just cold air so I put a small bomb in the system tonight and woah, I had ice cold air again. I noticed that where he replaced the O-rings, it appeared to be oily again! I went to a friends house and he as the glasses and UV light and we could see the dye around the connections where the hoses bolt to the condenser. We cleaned em off with brake cleaner and will recheck tomorrow afternoon. How odd is it to have the O-rings replaced and then have it leak again? I know he did not use OEM O-rings. I do not think its the condenser, we can only see the die on the fitting and around the flange of the hoses.it is easy enough to replace the condenser and it is not labor intensive. I called the shop and he said it would be about 25.00 plus a recharge but he doesn't know its leaking AGAIN. Should I go and replace the condenser as well? This image doesn't show the lightly wetness around the flanges.... but here it is.
View 1 RepliesWhat the black spongy tar like substance on the a/c condenser pipes in the rear of my Ex are? It's is put on at the factory but no one at Ford or anywhere else I've been can tell me what it is. I'm relatively sure it keeps the pipes from sweating.
View 5 RepliesIs the A/C condenser pretty simple to replace on the 2006 F350? Replaced the compressor but then noticed the condenser was leaking. Looks simple just wondering if there are any quirks to it.
View 14 RepliesI hit a Turkey running across a back country road the other day . Never took flight. Shortly after that I lost my AC. I took a quick look at the front of the truck and saw no damage. The next day I found the grill lower chrome bar cracked and the AC condenser bent and leaking.
I had to replace those items plus the plastic support frame that all the chrome pieces are attached to. And recharge the AC. Hard to imagine the damage done since I could not stick 2 fingers thru the support grating. Been looking at Grill Guards but not thrilled with the look .
My AC condenser was punctured at the beginning of the week. No check engine lights. I pick the car up and it had four codes. They are
P0445
P0498
P2257
P0414
Are these codes related to the AC system running without any freon or something else related. To the condenser? I know the definitions of these codes but what do they really mean?
I believe the condenser has leaked out. IS it safe to replace or do I need to take it in to flush out any residual freon? Just want to be safe.
View 19 Replies Wife found and purchased a 1989 Celica GT...everything is mechanically sound...except that when we took the car into service place to get a/c service done, they charged the system and said that it is fine...(was a few ounces low on freon), but that our condenser fan doesn't seem to kick on when the a/c button is activated on the dash We have the "Push Button" style Automatic a/c. Manual trans, 3sfe 2.0 liter. I have checked voltage at the condenser fan...it is present....jumpered the ground wire to a ground and the fan runs...I swapped the relay out with the regular engine fan relay, which seems to work fine....no good, so I don't think it is a relay issue.
The compressor seems to kick in and work, cycling on and off as usual. Get nice cold air as long as car is moving above 30 mph. I have the tools, no real fear of taking stuff apart, but even though I have a schematic of the a/c system...I find it confusing and daunting. My service place mentioned either the a/c controller or the a/c amplifier may be the culprit. He also mentioned that those parts are no longer available from Toyota.....said there was a way around it to get the condenser fan to fire when the button is pushed on....but wanted $300 for the "no more than 30 minutes to do the wiring". He seemed rather "sharkish" to me....like instead of charging for time, he put a "what's it worth to you to have a/c" hijack price on it.
My air-con has packed up and I have been quoted nearly a thousand pounds to fix it. The problem is a leak in the condenser, which needs to be replaced. I've tried to source one myself, but there is some confusion over whether or not the condenser and the coolant radiators are combined, there is a vast difference in online prices.
View 14 RepliesSo do I need a fuse or something worse ?
View 1 RepliesI know this has been covered in other areas of this forum but I didn't see anything that quite fit my situation.
My A/C is abnormally (to me) loud when it runs. Is this normal for other GS owners?
I have a 2005 accent gls. I use the car for deliveries so a lot of stopping/starting. when the car is hot, the AC compressor will shut off after 5 seconds, and not re-engage until about 20 seconds, then only on for 5, so not keeping cool air. I noticed when I turn the AC on, the condenser fan (i think) kicks into high speed so I assume that's what it should do, but when the issue is happening, it does not go into high speed. the shop I went to wasn't able to determine the problem. they checked pressure and evacuated the system. when it works, it blows cold as it should.
View 3 RepliesI have been told my AC hose from the Compressor to the Condenser is leaking. How much time do I have to get repaired before AC stops cooling. Can I just get the hose replaced and about how much should it cost? This is a 2000 model.
View 3 RepliesStarted working on the salvage W12 today and I need to remove the bent radiator and AC condenser. The AC refrigerant system is already low per the VCDS system (no surprise, the condenser has an imprint of the VW logo in it ) so I'm going to disconnect the lines from the condenser. Since I'm not going to put a new condenser in until I'm done with the rest of the work, I need to know how to plug the two refrigerant lines in a way to not contaminate the rest of the system. Are some rubber plugs over the connectors going to do it or is there a better way?
View 8 Replies