Ford A/C :: Poor AC While Idling But Great On The Highway
Jun 27, 2016
2000 5.4L Expedition.
I've noticed when air temps are over 90 degrees, my AC performance while idling isn't the greatest. But moving on the highway at 50+ mph, it seems to cool quite well.
The fan clutch has some resistance while spinning by hand (checked today after parked for 3 hours) but it's not significant. No play in/out of the fan blades.
After coming back from lunch, I parked it, left it running with the AC on and checked the fan. It was running but wasn't "loud". Coolant temp was showing 204 at the time (ultragauge reading). Shut the engine off and checked the fan rotation again- felt just the same as prior to lunch on a "cold" engine.
Unknown mileage on the fan clutch. 194,000 miles on the Expedition.
I'm thinking the fan clutch isn't strong enough to pull air in through the radiator while sitting still- but 50+ mph on the highway shoves plenty of air through it. What do you think?
Also, water pump? Should I change it at the same time? Sometimes the fan will sound very loud. But only on occasional cold starts. The noise goes away after ~60 seconds. Never hear the fan any other time than that.
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A while ago I had a '99 Ranger. Long bed, regular cab, 2wd, 5-speed, 2.3. I had really poor acceleration. I was used to Toyota pickups with the 2.4 22RE, and the Ranger was considerably slower to come to highway speeds.
So, I took it to two different dealers, and they told me "that's just the way they are." I guess I believed them and sold the truck. Now, I am kind of thinking about another Ranger. Do people here think the '99 2.3 has an acceleration problem? Are there certain years to avoid the I4 in a Ranger?
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I swapped my old 4.3 for one out of a 86 chevy blazer. the motor ran great in the blazer but after getting everything hooked up I get erratic idling and poor response from the car. throttle body is new as well, where to start?
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My Aerostar is a 93 extended EB with 4.0, AT, 212k mostly reliable miles, and blue and gold paint that has held up remarkably well. When started it runs great; smooth idle, easy revs, normal as can be. But when that third pip on the digital temp gauge hits Normal the van becomes possessed. The idle will randomly drop or surge or return to normal, the check engine light will come on for a few seconds then go off, all without pattern, just kinda crazy. Today I held it at 2k rpm, then it bogged down to like 800 rpm and lit the CEL, then it returned to 2k rpm and the light cleared, swung up to 2.5k, all while I hold the throttle steady. The light does not always come on when it bogs. I see no black smoke from the exhaust and it smells normal, but it was kinda windy today.
The check engine light is not lit otherwise so I assume no hard codes are stored. I think I found the code retrieval process for the OBDI but I have not done that yet. After reading a bit in this forum I thought to clean the MAP sensor, but I do not have security torx bits to remove it yet. As background a few years ago it had an oil leak from the top rear which I ignored, and it slowly rotted a harness back there till one day the harness died leaving me running on 3 cylinders. My local Speedy Lube guy was ex Ford dealership and knew Aerostars, he did the diagnosis and repair and said it was a common problem. But he has moved on. I was also told I have a torn boot on a plug wire, but there's no way to get my ham-like paws back in there, from front or back, to verify or replace. I mention all this as background, I doubt a bad plug wire is the issue here.
It seems like an odd problem to me because the only pattern is related to operating temp. It is not a constant problem, not an intermittent glitch, but it very definitely goes nuts right when it achieves normal temp. Aside from pulling the codes, which I will figure out tomorrow, any other tests I can run to diagnosis? Any way I can trick this thing into thinking it is cold all the time?
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Getting the Banana ready for it's smog test appt at the shop last night (it WAS today) Check engine light had popped on and it had been starting to sputter and surge at the idle occasionally for the last few days so I took a look at the MAF and saw dirty wires. Aha I can fix that, a couple squirts of MAF cleaner, plug it back in and voila! No more light, the Banana ran down the road around the block, over the hill and through the dale like a champ. I shut her down and call it a night.
This morning, hop in and fire the Banana up like usual and all I get is a nice peppy crank over. The Banana has had a bunch (pun intended) of new parts throw at her recently... new battery, starter solenoid, plugs and fuel pump relay and fuel filter. All within the last couple of months.
Out of complete disbelief, I ground on the ignition for a little while and she finally kicked over and sputtered to life. I let her idle a couple of minutes and things seemed fine so off we go. I make it about a block before the Banana starts hiccuping and bucking like something possessed and dies.... kaput.
The Banana has a 3.0, manual transmission and at least half a tank of fuel. Long story short and a tow truck ride home again, half a day trying unsuccessfully to pull a code, any code.... nothing. She will half-heartedly cough and spastically run with ether shots and near as I can tell I'm not getting fuel to the fuel rail relief port. I'm really hoping there is some way to diagnose a faulty fuel pump without having to drop the tank and fish the damn thing out.
I'm not hearing it run when the ignition is turned on but then again I don't think I've ever heard it run. Any other things to try before I replace the pump itself???
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1997 Ford Econoline HD Club Wagon E350 2wd 250k 6.8l V-10 Factory front and rear air, rear evap is there but all other components were removed from previous owner to use as a work van.
Air works great other than at idle it warms up some, not a real big issue at the moment, and also has a small vac leak somewhere as under heavy throttle or towing any bog will change vents to defrost and floor. not a big deal at the moment.
My issue right now is I was driving yesterday down the interstate air on full blast freezing me real good (awesome at speed on these 100 degree days in NC) and all of a sudden ambient air, no more awesomeness.
I pulled over to take a quick look but was way too hot to sit on the side of the interstate and look further, got the ole girl home and looked at it today.
Compressor kicks on as it should, but all the lines stay the same no condensation, blend door is moving to adjust from any vents the control tells it to.
My question is if it was low on freon the compressor wouldnt kick on at all, and if its up and cycling correctly why aren't the lines becoming cold? the temp door is also working as with the van warm the air will blow hot then when i switch it back to cold it gets cool just not cold, temp of air around blower.
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I just got back from a deployment and my Dad changed out the battery on my 06 F150. He said it started up fine for him, but I tried and it powers up great but won't turn over. Everything electrical still works, but the engine doesn't even try to turn over.
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2004 later year 6.0 F-350. 155,000 miles. All stock.
It will start and run fine. Drove it for an hour then began running rough. Nursed it back home. When idling it eventually died. It will eventually fire up but runs really bad. It has done this a few times. I've done fuel filters and 911 fuel treatment because thought it was gelling. No luck...
It has injector circuit fault codes that pop up. Only other code is MAF sensor low but in range. First it was codes for cylinders 3,5. Then 3,5,8. Then 1,3,5,8. Now just injector 1. Keeps changing as I refresh. Battery power fine. FICM is 47.5- 48volts and in sync. ICP at idle is 600-700psi. IPR is 25%.
We had a problem with blowing turbo pipe off so may be overboosting. Not sure. No code thrown relating to that. Possible wire chafing? Maybe bad tank of fuel? Not sure where to turn at this point.
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2000 F150 4.6L Romeo 2WD. Engine cranks great. Fuel pump working. Changed fuel filter. Will not start. No codes. Fixed A/C day before yesterday, only had air coming out defroster, disintegrated vacuum hose at firewall. Ran errands yesterday, no problems whatsoever. Get in truck today to go to work and no start at all, engine turns over fine. What next?
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I just purchased a 1989 F250 with a 5.8 motor. Great truck for its age. Ive owned other Ford trucks in the past and my Dad had them as a kid. Love them.
When I bought the truck from the 2nd owner it had a problem so I bought this truck with the problem figuring with my past knowledge I could fix it. Not the case. When I got the truck it would start fine and run really great but when it got warm it seems it would die and I would have to wait till it was cooled down to start back up and again it would run fine. Well the problem got worse and worse and now it wont run at all.
It will run on starter fluid so that leads me immediately to the fuel pumps. I say that plural because none of them will run it seems. I did a fuel pressure test at the shrader valve at the top of the motor on the fuel rail and I get no pressure at all when I turn the key. The relay in the engine compartment seems to be working to as I can hear it. I put a new on of those on to to be sure. Leads me back to the pumps again. I replaced the external pump on the fuel rail and I know thats working. I replaced the fuel filter to while I was there.
Is it possible to have BOTH fuel pumps in the front and rear tanks go at once? Seems unusual. My other F150 with dual tanks worked great and when the back tank pump went I could just switch it over to the front tank.
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I have a '99 F250, 7.3, CCSB with just over 127K on the clock. I went out of town for 10 days and was ready to get out of the grocery getter and into my truck. I hop in and it cranks great but would not start. I pop the hood and start with the easy stuff. Made sure all plugs/connections were good, check. Relays and fuses are still in good order (under hood and dash), check. Fuel pump was replaced less than a month ago (works great) with fuel in fuel bowl (new filter), check. Try to start a few more times with no luck, so I tinkered around for few more minutes and it starts right up and drives perfect.
Drive around, truck is on and off as usual throughout the day and go back to work next day around 10:30. Truck starts as normal. Get to work and have to run out but truck doesn't start again. After key is in on position for 15-20 minutes while checking fuses and such it starts up and runs perfect. I drive around for 20 minutes and return. I got off about 5 hours later and it doesn't start. Leave key in on position while I'm explaining issues to a buddy again 15-20 while key is on it starts right up. I drive home and park and I haven't been able to start it since.
From reading forums and watching you tube I'm leaning towards IPV or CPS but no one has described the problem as I've had. I do not have monitors, tuner, or anything aftermarket but I'm a mechanic and have a descent set of tools at home.
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2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 - 250k miles had the original plugs and wires ....
First things first - I changed them one at a time and confirmed the truck started and ran after each one was changed. I changed all the plugs on the drivers side with no issue. 4,5,6 ... Then I changed plug 3, rear passenger side plug closet to the firewall.
Truck will not start, turns over great, but will not start. I have confirmed I am getting spark. No clue what could have changed, I just pulled out the old plug and wire put in a new one and it wouldn't start.
My father-in-law said if you have spark check fuel. I recall seeing a post about someone breaking a cable for the coil pack but i have checked and i see nothing broken.
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My 03 F250 6.0L Starts and Runs fine but will never illuminate the glow plug/ wait to start light? Scan tool test on GPRM and tells me everthing is OK. Cleared all codes, turn on key, no WTS light and throws P0381 DTC every time. What my problem is?
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My 04 f150 has been sitting upwards in my drive way for a month now won't start cranks great with full power..
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I had some more time to mess around with my truck. The 4r100 shifts great until the truck warms up. After about 10 to 15 minutes of driving it starts. With the gear selector in D and under acceleration it will shift at about 2k rpm's and will be in third gear by 25mph. If I climb to higher speeds it will only shift out of O/D when I get my foot into it. It will not downshift into any gears until I am almost completely stopped. It will downshift and hold gears great if I use the column to shift. I'm stumped. No CEL or flashing O/D light.
Things I have checked:
TPS
VSS
All connections to the transmission
Set tune back to stock
Transmission fluid & level
Will the transmission still store codes even if the O/D light has never flashed?
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Had to change the UVC harness on my 2001 7.3. Truck fell out. Trailered it home and changed the UVC harness on the passenger side. Truck is running great, but now the OD light is flashing. Can't read transmission codes, but was wondering if something from the bad harness could have caused this? Any thoughts?
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While driving my 99 F350 7.3 it died and I was lucky enough to coast home. No WTS light, no tach movement when cranking, no fuel pump, no CEL, Cranks great but no smoke or fire. New CPS & PCM still no lights or tach. Moved relays checked all fuses. WTF is wrong?
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I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
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I know this has been discussed but I still don't understand. Hence my "dumb blonde" user name.
I just purchased a 2013 super duty f350 extended crew cab DRW.
I also purchased a 42 foot (box is 36) Goose neck Bison LQ horse trailer. Trailer weight is 12048 and tongue weight is 4468. Fully loaded I am about 18,500.
Truck pulls and stops great but it is obvious the rear suspension is sagging.
Now what? Do I need air bags? Timbren? Spring Coils? I have called several installers and they all say something different.
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Truck starts great, and runs and idles fine until it warms up. This could be 15-20 minutes of driving or idling. Then it just dies. Like dead dies, lose power steering, everything (ac and lights still work, but no engine). It had died while idling, it has dies while cruising at 45mph. Then it will crank but no start. After about a 45min to an hour it will start like there was not issue, and pretty much drive the rest of the day (even after sitting) with no problem.
I installed the Adrenaline a few months ago, but the truck ran great for quite a while before this problem occurred. I did have it shipped with a rebuilt IPR. Tonight, I rebuilt the IPR with Guzzle's kit, and stripped it all the way down. Truck died again.
I have not had my AE hooked up when it died (stupid me today). But afterward I have been getting a few codes: P1283 (IPR Control Circuit) and P1212 (ICP lower than desired Engine crank or run).
When trying to start ICP duty cycle is about 64% and pressure is 185 to 190. If I unplug the ICP sensor pressure jumps to 2000ish, truck turns over faster and ICP Duty cycle goes to about 35%.
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My 07 3.3 is running fine and than just stalls. No rhyme or reason to it. After sitting it will start right up and run maybe a few seconds or miles or not at all. Cranks great bust sometimes just won't run.
Does this sound like a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. How is it checked?
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