04 F350 TD AC stopped cooling.
Compressor engages
Static pressure is ZERO
Running pressures are close to ZERO
Apparently I have lost refrigerant, but I see no signs of leaking (oil) and vacuum is holding at 30.
My 01 excursion is leaking refrigerant. Added UV dye, and still can't find leak. It takes about 5-7 days to lose charge.
View 6 RepliesI'm replacing the compressor and accumulator on my Explorer. I'm having the shop evacuate the system, but they want to fill it with R134, so I'd rather use the cans if I can find out how many ounces it needs. I'm seeing conflicting information on the refrigerant capacity for the 94. Is there an authoritative source, like the factory service manual?
View 3 RepliesMy 26 row 6.0L cooler should arrive today. I was going to use the advanced auto parts discount code to order more Mobil 1 Tranny fluid. How many more quarts the 6.0L holds than the standard V10 tranny cooler?
View 5 RepliesSo, trucks A/C is not blowing cold, and i replaced the compressor a couple years ago ( 40k miles?) took the truck to a shop to have them use one of them sniffers to check for a refrigerant leak. Was told that it needs a new evaporator core. Charged the truck up with refrigerant and it blew cold for a while but is now blowing hot again and it's summer time here in FL
So, replacing evaporator core here? I tried to find some how-to videos on youtube, but to no avail. I'd like to do it myself if possible. I think the shop quoted 3-400 in labor atleast.
I recently purchased 1999 7.3 PSD The owners manual says that the crank case holds 14 qts. I have read on other sites 15 quarts. In my engine 14 is barely at the add mark. The cross hatch area is 2 quarts to the high mark. My question is should I put is 15 quarts to get the level up onto the cross-hatched area or leave it down at the add mark ?? I'm using Motorcraft 15 W 40 Dino oil. and I replaced the filter with the correct Fram filter.
View 6 RepliesI have a 04 F250 6.0L ,The center bolt that holds the a/c clutch to the compressor. I'm assuming that bolt needs to be tight, correct? Mine was loose when I looked at it last night. My a/c squeals for a while trying to engage. Also, is that bolt right or left hand threads? Can that clutch be replaced without removing the compressor?
View 9 RepliesI have noticed a refrigerant oil smell coming out of the A/C vents when I first start my truck with the a/c on.. smells like the PAG oil in the A/C system.. I got under the truck and stuck my finger in the condensate drain and it's oily, and has the same smell.. the A/C is still blowing cold, but the smell is getting worse..
View 10 RepliesCarburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
Guess my cables have stretched. I just adjusted my handbrake cables and I noticed no matter how strong I apply the handbrake and it holds the car however on both driver's and passenger side the outside pad does not touch the rotor. I'm guessing that the inside pad moves and holds enough, however, i would like the brakes to operate properly. when is the handbrake applied should both pads apply pressure to the rotor?
View 9 RepliesI've got a friend who had a leak repaired on his '98 Chevy S-10 pickup but didn't have the system recharged. I have a vacuum pump and gauges and told him I would pull a vacuum and recharge it for him, but he doesn't know the refrigerant capacity and I don't have manuals on this model. What is the capacity? I'm figuring 1.5-2 lbs but would like to know exactly what's recommended by GM before starting on it so I can tell him how much refrigerant to buy.
View 3 RepliesMy AC is slowing down and needed diagnostics. Fan system is fine. So I hooked up my manifold guage set from HF and got 90 on both high and low static, and 35/175 under load. Temp was 83 Fahrenheit with 36% humidity.
My diagnosis - refrigerant low. (i.e. low/low)
So what kind of quantity can I assume I'm down? Do these german ac run on the high side? I'm going to pour in the PAG 46 myself through the yellow line, and that runs roughly 5 to 1 to the refrigerant. NO SEALANT. Just a 12 ounce can of 134a and 3 ounces of PAG 46.
Just to verify - it is PAG 46 for the 2004 Jetta 2.0 GLS?
2016 Hyundai Sonata SE
6000 miles, 3 months old
2.4 GDI engine, auto trans
Variable-Displacement Compressor (no clutch, anyway, so that's what I'm assuming)
Is it OKAY to drive the car without refrigerant to circulate lubricating oil, or am I going to be looking at a new compressor in a few years?
A week ago, a grasshopper put a hole in the condenser. Yes, a friggen BUG, complete with bug guts and wings stuck around the tiny dent and pinhole. I'm arguing with Hyundai over the warranty coverage, they say "outside forces" and I'm saying "defective part or crappy engineering"...
The dealer's service writer said there would be no problem driving the car while we wait for parts, as long as we didn't turn the AC on. Okay, it's not summer anymore, but doesn't the compressor want to be on in DEFROST setting? Supposedly the system won't try and turn on the compressor if it's low on charge, but...being a variable displacement compressor with no clutch...
if I start my car and leave it in park and turn the air on max, on the 1st or 2nd fan setting, I usually get no cold air, its just normal temperature. if I begin to drive for a bit the air turns cold, then if I stop and park, the air usually stays cool sometimes.
however, last week we had a heatwave here in SoCal and it was around 100 or so, and my car was outside for a while. I started it up and the air was not blowing cold for quite some time, I had to drive for a while to get it going.
I drive mostly on the highway and my A/C works fine but I noticed hiccups like these here and there and want to know if its something I should look into before it gets worse
I just purchased a 2005 GT Hatch 5 speed. I've noticed that when I up-shift, it holds the revs. I can live with it if I have to though. This is my 4th car that's a standard so I doubt its user error. Anyway, if you guys think its a feature that I can shut off that would be cool. If not no worries.
View 10 Replies2002 1500 4WD 126K miles. A/C not working, compressor does not engage when A/C is switched on. Is there an interlock if the refrigerant level is too low to keep the compressor from engaging? Original owner, A/C has never been recharged. Is recharging my best first step.
View 2 Replies2004 Santa Fe, 130k, auto, 2.4L engine, FWD
Bought this car during the winter and didn't need to use the air conditioning until recently, which as you could guess blows warm. Filled up with R134a and all was good for a few days, nice and cold.
Then after about 5 days it was blowing warm again. About half of the refrigerant had leaked out. Looked like the schrader valve/valve core was leaking on the low side so pulled it out and put in a new one. Filled up with new refrigerant, same thing... lasted a few days and now warm air again.
Is there a common spot for leaks on this model? I know I need to get a can of r134 with dye in it to try and find the leak, but I heard it can be the evap core which you can't see openly. Do the hoses normally leak? should I replace all the O-rings, etc?
Started working on the salvage W12 today and I need to remove the bent radiator and AC condenser. The AC refrigerant system is already low per the VCDS system (no surprise, the condenser has an imprint of the VW logo in it ) so I'm going to disconnect the lines from the condenser. Since I'm not going to put a new condenser in until I'm done with the rest of the work, I need to know how to plug the two refrigerant lines in a way to not contaminate the rest of the system. Are some rubber plugs over the connectors going to do it or is there a better way?
View 8 RepliesSince then I have added some refrigerant, changed the Magnetic Clutch Relay. Fan kicks on only for a few seconds and then goes off. Pressure shows that it might be a little high on refrigerant. Could this be so that it would not allow the fan to turn on and stay on. when I let some refrigerant out it seems that it will kick on and stay on. I have not let any more out because to me this really does not make sense to me, hence why I am asking some more questions.
View 3 RepliesThis is for my 2005 SF with the 2.7L.
My AC system no longer holds a charge and I'm looking to replace the parts myself and have a professional service it after I finish.
I'm looking for recommendations for reliable brand of compressor. Also, other parts I should be looking at replacing to get another 9 years out of it.
I recently melted (due to my own ignorance) the backshell that holds the low beam light bulb in place. I can see that the backshell is removeable since there's it looks like there's 3 screws that hold it in place. The headlight would have to be baked apart, but I already know how to do that. My question is: is there anywhere that sells this part, or does the housing assembly have to be bought whole? I was also looking at the spyder lights that claim they are projectors, but I'm wondering how they compare to regular OEM output. This is for a hybrid btw
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