Ford A/C :: No AC And Heat Is On Full All The Time
Jun 2, 2013
I just picked up a beautiful 98 Ranger and the only thing I can find wrong with it is a HVAC problem. I bought the truck through the owners brother and they informed me that the AC would work if you "moved something under the dash".
So far, this is what I know:
The temperature out of the vents is full hot, all the time meaning even with the temp control all the way down to cool with the mode selector (Max AC/AC/ Vent/ Off etc.) in any position, all you get is max temp hot air out of the vents. The mode selector does seem to work in as much as it can re- direct the air to the proper outlets when it it operated.
At first I started looking at the AC system itself but now I think it's a control problem. The AC clutch relay, fuse, low pressure switch, clutch field coil, static refrig. pressure and power to the clutch circuit all look OK.
I poked around under the hood looking for vacuum leaks but there was nothing obvious and like I said, the mode selector works, so there's some source of vacuum for them. Also, The hot water valve is actuated when the selector is on the MAX AC or OFF positions as it should be.
Does this sound like a blend door problem? A bad temperature control? I am not well versed in this system and I'm wondering why even if the blend door is stuck or broken (an assumption), the AC compressor will not come on. I have already checked both the selector and the temperature controls to make sure they weren't stripped and spinning on their shafts.
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Quick question. If you unplug the vacuum lines from the solenoids will it enable the 4x4? Is there a way to enable the 4x4 full time?
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So I had the brakes services yesterday at a new shop in town. Normally I wouldn't do this, I like to do it myself. After I dropped the truck off I get a call a while later and the service tech tells me that the passenger front caliper is the wrong one. He says it's actually for the drivers side, but who ever did the brakes last just flipped it upside down and put it on the passenger side. So in essence, I have two drivers side calipers on the front of my truck.
I got under ther and looked and the bleeder screw is on the bottom on the passenger side. I would assume it's supposed to be on the top like the others?
So here's my questions......
1. Is it even possible to put the drivers side on the passenger side (upside down?)
2. Is it really the wrong caliper? It has been working for over two years like this with no ill effects.
3. Should I worry about it if in fact it is the wrong caliper?
I've never done the brakes on this truck actual truck myself. I really hate taking things to the shop because you never know if they are trying to scam you, which I'm pretty sure they were. I left there with only new pads...
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My dad's 1993 Lincoln Town Car runs great but the fan for heat or AC only will run at full blast or nothing. Makes it difficult to drive when it's real hot or cold out. Can this be remedied without costing an arm and a leg? The car is 21 yrs. old and not worth a lot.
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The heating system on my 99 3.4. I'm not getting hot air when selected to full hot or defrost, The air is warm but not hot. I do have water flow through the heater core, I have not changed the thermostat yet. Could it be the dashboard control panel, When I place the blower fan to full on, the fan goes off??
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2004 Suburban with dual manual a/c controls. My problem was first going from a/c all of the sudden it would switch to full heat. I could pull over stop the engine for a minute and restart and it would correct itself. Started doing this a lot so I replaced the mod door on drivers side. It worked for a couple weeks and started same thing again. I put it in the shop and they replaced the other two mod doors and did a lot of wire testing and even talked to Chevy. They were able to correct the air and heat problem but now I have a problem with the air going to the defrost and floor, maybe a little out of the dash and you no matter what you select it will not move to just floor or dash etc.
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I'm thinking this is probably just the way they are, but I don't understand why........... I have a '12 F250 supercab 6.7 FX4.... truck is an XL, no supplemental heat or anything. If it sits outside over night, and I go out in the morning after say a 35-40 degree night, start it up and let it run 10-15 min then drive 5 miles down the road to town, both temp gauges are still pegged on the cold side, and there's virtually no heat blowing on the defrost. Even if it sits in the heated garage over night, same temp, same drive to town in the morning, same lack of any heat.
My old 2010 V10 that I traded for the 6.7, and my current 09 5.4 are the exact opposite of this. I can start the 5.4 cold, leave within a minute or two, and be making some heat within a few minutes. By the time I get to town, everything is well in the normal range, and I'm turning the heater down cuz it's too hot. Even once the 6.7 is fully warmed up the heater doesn't seem to make near the heat that the gas trucks do. I love the 6.7, I just find this a bit odd. Am I missing something, or is this just the way they all are?
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My 2010 70,000km car has this problem since yesterday. That was after leaving it at car wash, they call to tell me it's not starting. Display message said to press brakes while starting, which I did, yeah I pressed it very hard.
After online look up and phone call with Toyota Lanka, I myself checked brake light switch in pedal, since brake lights were not turning on but switch was fine.
Then Toyota Lanka engineer came to location and started by long pressing start. Replaced brake light fuse, which was burned.
But still this light is on. I think it could be due to hard pressing of brake. But now car works fine apart from the brake hold function. Will display reset work, then how to do that
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My gas gauge is intermittent. most of the time it reads right, but like 30% of the time it shows empty regardless of how full the tank is. What would cause this?
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Trouble with the fuel gauge showing full all the time - only goes down 1/8th at most. Repair shop said would have to pull dash to find the trouble.
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As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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The gas gauge on my 2008 does not seem accurate. I had three bars left the other day and when I filled up it took 6.5 gallons. Normally with three bars it only takes 5.5 gallons. Also, it stays on "full" (all bars) a long time.
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I have a 2004 Tahoe that the rear heat and A/C is giving me fits. I was getting no heat in the rear(front was fine) so I checked the heater hoses to the rear of the vehicle and they get hot. So I replaced the blend door acturator in the rear. That seemed to work for a little while but now it is 50/50 whether you will get heat in the rear.
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I have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5s. In winter i have noticed that my car takes too much time to heat up when the AC is turned ON. Generally, if i drive for 5 minutes and the temperature of the engine comes to the center ( in the temperature dial on the dash board), the hot air starts coming out. Is this normal. I haven't noticed this in other cars. Do i need to check anything?I do have the coolant liquid full.
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My car was blowing heat all the time and after reading some of the intel on this site and running a few checks I decided it was the DCCV. I bought a new one and while changing it i noticed that the old DCCV was burnt up and so was the wiring harness plug. I went ahead and installed the new one hoping the harness would still work. Well it worked great for about a half hour then the ac compressor stopped coming on! I checked the freon and it is good. I believe it is the harness (and yes I checked the fuse). On the harness was a tag with the numbers 3W4T-18C463-BC ...
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Noticing that my drivers seat is taking a long time to heat up. I usually warm up the car in the winter, and turn on the seat heater. The seat is still cold when I get in, and does not heat up until I go a few miles. Have to check and see if the passenger is doing the same thing.
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My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
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Having problems with the auto-up feature on your windows? Mine seems to randomly stop working from time to time. Only the drivers side has the problem. When the truck was new the dealer re-programmed the computer and put a new window switch in. That worked for a while but the problem keeps coming back. I can easily do the re-programming sequence however the problem always comes back. I have a 2012 Lariat SCREW.
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Last oil change at the dealer (they're free) I informed the service desk of some knocking and grinding noises that are happening from time to time in the front end.. and fluid in the driveway.. they did the oil and said they saw nothing... so I have to go back next week for my last free oil change and before I made the appointment, I dropped in to see my regular mechanic.. steering rack is leaking on the passenger side and has been for a while as the fluid is down to the minimum line in the reservoir.
Made the appointment with the dealer, informed them about the noise again and fluid on the driveway.. again. Let's see what they say this time.
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The headlight beam height can be adjusted from inside the car. But even when not fiddling with the dial, I hear an electric motor sounding noise from them time to time, just a short <1s whirring sound. I listen with the bonnet open and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the headlights. Is this normal? is there any way I can stop it?
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So I'm also noticing my car occasionally makes a huge thud sound from time to time when I put it into two certain gears. From park to reverse it's not loud but there's a little noise, but from any gear into Drive it's sometimes a loud boom and the car shakes. My pops mentioned to me this is dangerous because of how the engine is moving underneath the hood when it happens. I just recently changed the dog bone mount, could it be the others? I'm ware that it's wise to change all 3 if you change one but I was on a budget & it was a lot worse before. Someone mentioned it might be my torque converter but I did some research & the two symptoms don't add up. And I'll add once more that this happens occasionally & not every time I switch to a different gear. What it may be?
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