Ford A/C :: Low And High Side Pressure Readings?
Jul 10, 2013
1999 F150 .... Been troubleshooting ac on my Dad's truck. Read the FAQ and after going through all the diagnostics on the ac (low-pressure switch, high-pressure switch, ac clutch relay, coil resistance all OK) I found issue with the clutch gap. I removed the washer in the clutch and put everything back together and the clutch is engaging properly now ( the gap is around .020 now) and seems to be working ok. I borrowed a set of gauges from a friend and want to verify the low and high side readings to see if the charge is adequate. Getting about 48F air out of the vents with outside temps around 85F. What the low and high side pressures should be running at that outside temperature?
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I have replaced hpop, lpop gears and cover, stand pipes, dummy plugs, rebuilt high pressure rails, and i still have issues. The icp readings on torque pro are mostly below 100 hot. I am clueless... I ordered the icp air fitting but it wont be here until tuesday.
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What are the most favorable low-side/high-side pressure readings for the AC when fully charged?
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I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0L. It's been blowing warm air ever since I got it (about a year ago). After doing some research online, I bought a gauge (low side port only) and some R134a. After hooking up the gauge, I got a reading of about 100psi. I'm not very technically inclined about cars, what could be wrong?
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What should the A/C high and low side pressure readings be for a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe SE?
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Replace them? Have a new set on the shelf, however, the 252k ones that are installed now give no high ohm readings.
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Which tire each of the tire pressure readings on the dash belong to? I have a 2007 LS460 and apparently had a nail in a tire that was slowly losing air. It took a bit of extra time to test each tire to discover the culprit. The dash displays tire pressure readings (1-5 including the spare) for each tire's PSI. Which one is the correlating tire for each reading (1-5). I checked the manual and it was not clear which reading position went to which tire.
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1998 Buick Regal has strange readings on the gauges. 80-85 degree ambient air temp, low pressure is 60, high is 125. I have 100 lbs of static pressure in the system with the engine off. I am getting some cool air, but I would expect that the high side pressure is not high enough to cool well. Do I have a plugged orifice tube? Is my compressor not compressing enough? Or is my refrigerant low and causing the problems somehow?
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We noticed that the air conditioner in our 2000 Hyundai Accent isn't as effective as it once was and I began to investigate. My hypothesis was that the car is 10 years old and may just have over time become low on refrigerant. After checking that my car does indeed use a R-134a based system, I purchased a canister of refrigerant with a hose and gauge for connecting the canister. Following the directions on the product, I attached the gauge and operated the A/C at full blast. Initially the pressure read 45 psi which would suggest that the system was probably about where it should be given the outside ambient temperature. I continued to observer the gauge and over a few minutes the pressure rose to around 100 PSI before the compressor stopped turning (the clutch released, so the outside of the pulley turned normally, but the center of the pulley stopped.) As expected the cool air ceased and the blower at this point only moved around the warm air still in the cab.
All I have done at this point is observe the pressure on the low side of A/C system and witnessed the compressor stopping when the pressure got high. My suspicion at this point is there is a much bigger problem for me find? I know I can always take the car to a specialist, but I was really hoping for a simple and economical do it yourself solution.
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I'm trying to add some 134 to the AC to see if it will work at all. it slowly stopped last year. I got a charge hose and a can of just 134a. When I attached the hose the gauge pegs on the high pressure side. I know I'm on the low pressure side and the compressor isn't running. It starts and stops. Should the pressure be that high with the compressor not running?
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I know this may seem like a really dumb question, but I was checking the oil on my 2008 prius today and noticed I get different readings on the front and reverse side of the dipstick. One side I have a halfway mark between the 2 marks, flip it over to the backside and I see my oil level is full. So I'm not really sure what the correct reading is.
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When I bought a used camry 5 years ago and drove it on the highway, my front tire busted and damaged the fender cuz it had too much air!! I wonder if it shows high pressure on my 2010 gen III Prius v with ATP. I know that the tires are special on this v version but still I like to keep a slightly higher pressure in the front ones because the lane keep assist feature works better with higher tire pressure. Summer is coming up so that gets me worried what to do with tire pressures.
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I just had the good fortune of buying a 1988 F250 Diesel (IH 7.3 non turbo) from an older couple - few miles, always garaged and always dealer serviced. It hasnt been driven muvch in the last few years and has only 67K miles.
The air conditioner isnt blowing cold. It was converted to 134a by the dealership in 2000 with all the correct fittings, labels etc - a nice conversion. When I attach a guage to the low side the compressor starts up, the pressure quickly rises to approx 45lbs and what I presume is a high pressure cut off stops the compressor, the system pressure then quickly drops and the compressor restarts. the whole cycle only takes about 15 seconds or so...
I assumed that slow leakage over time had occurred so began by adding a small amount of a combination of 2oz of oil and 2 oz of 134a...I saw no difference in the pressure fluctuations nor the cycle times so shut down the system. There are two valves (needle valves) on both sides of the compressor but they don't look closed.
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Truck has a high oil pressure leak, only leak i have found is in the high pressure rail, I cannot get to it till sat, or sunday. So I have to let the oil cool before I can start. Any way testing to find the right temp for Oil to thicken enough to Build? I've been here for hours and its went from 180's to about 100 now...
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I have a High pressure oil leak somewhere, and where it can be. I tore the oil rails out and replaced the nipple cup seals last night. I got it all back together and air tested it and sure enough a leak is present. I have no problem paying for your time (I always provide good beer). I can rebuild gas motors all day long, but these diesels has me thrown for a loop. The frustration I am experiencing is crazy at this point. All the injectors are new, and the dummy plugs and standpipes were replaced as well.
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I've got a 1271 code and I can't seem to make it go away. Code definition is "High side to Low side open Cyl 1". The truck runs fine, no rough idle, no excessive smoke of any color, just the damn CEL light stays on. I check the UVCH and all the injectors ohm in at 2.7 ohms. I've already done the updated clips under the covers. I run all the buzz tests and KOEO/ KOER tests and all appears OK. My AE won't do a Cyl contribution test. All the injector data shows all 0.00. I know its not that perfect. "high to low open", does that mean I've lost a ground? If so where?
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I have a 94 ranger 5 speed xlt v6 4.0l 288k miles original engine. in the last month the oil pressure has gradually gone way up. a manual gauge shows 65psi at cold start ( in the 90* out side) after a minute of idle it dropped to 60psi, at 2k rpms the psi was 85+. also the water temp has gotten hotter to the point of almost being unsafe. it appears that in the hotter part of the day the psi goes higher. the oil and filter was changed 1200 miles ago. the cooling system has been update in the last year with a new radiator new thermostat. no cross contamination in the fluids, engine runs good other than gauges on dash showing water and oil getting close to unsafe range and manual gauge showing high pressure.
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I was watching a tv show a while back, I cant find the episode but I think it was performance tv, and they had a 6.0 L expert on there and he was saying they see a lot of high pressure oil rail end caps come loose and or pop out. He was saying that they tap/thread the end of the oil rail and put a threaded in cap? Does it make any sense, can it be done, is it worth doing?
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I have a 04 F350 Dually and I am not getting any oil to my high oil pressure. Truck will crank but won't turn over. The high oil pressure pump is fine. What am I missing?
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I have a 2009 Ranger 2.3 L manual with about 100000 miles. The engine was bogging down and I just found out that the MAF sensor is bad from testing it. In the process, I measured my fuel pressure to be 73 psi (manual says 60-65 psi). So I have two questions:
a.) Is there any chance of just cleaning the MAF sensor. The sensor has zero volts when running and warm (or .02 v) and barely changes when reving the throttle.
b.) Perhaps then the high fuel pressure is an unrelated issue. Is this so high that I must change the regulator as I have to change the pump as well? Might it be some other issue than the regulator which is what the Hayness manual says?
One theory I had for the high fuel pressure is that the bad MAF was leading to bogging and lean conditions and the computer was running the pump more to compensate but I think the computer might run the pump based on fuel pressure not the o2 sensor.
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Took truck to a mechanic he advised me that the no heat was because of high back pressure in engine...never heard of this before, is this a correct diagnosis? No heat, air blows through all vents, defrosters.
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