Ford A/C :: Low And High Side Connection Ports Location
May 13, 2013
I just checked the HVAC FAQ sticky and found my symptom and problem listed there with corrective action. Extremely useful.
My issue is, I'm on crutches due to a recent foot surgery. Doctor's orders do not allow me to put any weight on that foot for at least another week.
Looking for a picture of these port connections for the truck listed in my signature? I'd like to see where they're located before I hobble on out to the truck. I have a feeling I'm not gonna be able to do this on crutches and my daughters need the A/C working.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 6.0 Ltr C2500 Auto tran Large Gas tank 120,000 miles. My gas tank filler tube vent hose has come off of its attaching point. It is still connected to the filler tube. I can not see where it connects on the other end. The small hose is long enough to reach the rear bumper on my truck noticed it hanging over the differential on the ground. Where to reconnect it to. I do have a check engine light showing. I fear my truck is falling apart slowly.
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Lexus has diagnosed a ground fault with an intermittent connection.... I am not sure how to proceed ... Could it be a light bulb connection... or does it even have these? Can the part be serviced in place... or must I replace the whole assembly?
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I connected the driver's side LED door sill without a problem by following the video instructions. However, there were no instructions for the passenger side. So, I guessed that I would t-tap the two top wires. The LED's do not light up. Now on second view, the top cable that I t-tap'ed looks more black than blue. I should have done this in the light. So...
1) What are the correct wires to t-tap for the passenger side?
2) Did I damage anything if I t-tap'ed the wrong cable and I then remove the t-tap?
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The A/C in my 1995 Taurus SHO stopped working suddenly on my way to work. I found that the compressor clutch was no longer engaging. I tried tapping the clutch with a broom handle while the car was running and the A/C on to see if the clutch would engage and indicating that the gap my be too wide but I had no luck.
I then hooked up the guages to check the charge and performance of the system. When I removed the service hoses both service ports were leaking gas. I tried to poke them with a small scredriver to get them to seal but that didn't work. I ended up losing the entire charge.
The service ports in the A/C lines do not appear to be schrader valves. There appear to be small rubber balls in the port that seal. However I knocked one of the apparent balls loose and found simply a flat plate in the service port. I am certain that it is not a schrader valve unless one exists under this plate.
Are these service ports repairable/replaceable or do I need to replace the entire hose assembly?
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Long story short I am working on an engine that was already dismantled (down to the heads). I am trying to figure out why someone tore the engine down. Vehicle is a recovered theft and it was recovered with all parts.
I removed the exhaust manifolds from the heads to start cleaning them up and replacing the exhaust bolts (rust). When I removed the exhaust manifolds the front two cylinders on the right side (1 and 3) were oily wet. The back two cylinders were sooty and normal. The front cylinder (2) on the left side was not as bad but did have a oily film on top of the valve and valve stem. I do not see any indication of anti freeze or coolant.
I looked at the head gasket and could feel a oil film between layers on 1 and 3. No oil on 2 that I could detect. I'm thinking there was a head gasket problem but not totally convinced. The cylinders and pistons look good from the top and the cylinders still show the cross hatch honing. No ridge on the top of the cylinder either. The motor has 122k miles on it.
Other than head gasket would there be something in common that could feed oil to those cylinders? I have eliminated the turbo. There is no oily film on any intake runners. It could just be a blown head gasket but it is not obvious if it is.
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I recently purchased a 1997 Volvo 850 and a week ago it began leaking coolant. Currently I am having to refill the coolant every three days.
I have attached two pics. One is a pic of where the coolant pools and the other is a pic of where I am pretty sure the coolant is leaking.
The leak appears to be coming from the connection point at the top driver side of the radiator. I know there is a hose on the same side at the bottom of the radiator directly below the one in the picture. At first I thought that was the source of the leak but later found it was just run off from the leak above.
Does this a common and fixable leak? Or if it is likely an expensive fix? Any other troubleshooting I can do on my end or do I need to take it to a dealer to find out what is going on?
Radiator_Leak.jpg ( 765.54K )
Leak.jpg ( 1.3MB )
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Where the low side air conditioning port on a 1988 ford 460 is? I found the high side one. But not the low one in order to charge the system ..
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I run a 1984 Celica at my local short track in the mini stock 4cyl division.
I had a lot of hesitation & tons of overheating (especially later in the season) on the track late last year. Parked the car for the winter & a few sponsorships later, decided to tear the motor down. New intake and exhaust manifolds new water pump and new head gasket.
Everything came in over the past few weeks & we began to work. We got the head off smoothly and got to the head gasket, which we thought may have been the cause of the overheating. Didn't look THAT bad, but definitely needed replacing. Got it off, wiped the block down to just take a look at it and a half dozen fractures/cracks going from the cylinders themselves to the ports for the coolant.
What engine can I put in this car. Will the motor mounts take any 22r/20r block? Its a 1984 Celica. I'm trying to get the car ready for the track in April and don't have a huge budget. I've found some blocks, 86 pickup 22r, 91 pickup 22re.
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My car ports that i use to plug in a phone charger are not working.
Can this be a blown fuze?
What fuze is it that I will need to change?
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on 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4-liter engine do you have to take off the valve cover to clean out EGR ports.
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Looking for post with instructions on how to clear the drain ports for sunroof and any cavities that collects water such as in engine compartment where brake master cylinder is located.
Tried to look for front sunroof ports... cannot see it. Discovered that I have about 3/4" of water still trapped under the master cylinder area... cannot find the drainports underneath it. Probably have to use a wire to poke through from top.
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Took off throttle body on 3800 series1 S/C and coolant is leaking from both bottom ports from mounting area on motor. Is this normal ? Intake area into S/C was dry but very much build up. The 2 ports just end at bottom back of throttle body and are sealed by the gasket. Coolant comes out steadily from those 2 holes. Is this an intake problem, gaskets ?
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I've got a 1271 code and I can't seem to make it go away. Code definition is "High side to Low side open Cyl 1". The truck runs fine, no rough idle, no excessive smoke of any color, just the damn CEL light stays on. I check the UVCH and all the injectors ohm in at 2.7 ohms. I've already done the updated clips under the covers. I run all the buzz tests and KOEO/ KOER tests and all appears OK. My AE won't do a Cyl contribution test. All the injector data shows all 0.00. I know its not that perfect. "high to low open", does that mean I've lost a ground? If so where?
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I have a 2013 Accent and have installing driving lights. I am looking for the correct high beam wire on the driver's side on the headlight assembly. I will then run this to a relay so that when I turn on my highs, the driving lights will come on. I have tried to locate the correct wire but the one wire that is hot when the highs are on, is still hot when the car is off as well as the lights.
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Where is the low side hook up to charge my a/c 2003 f250 v10
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This morning the passenger side wiper on my 89 Ranger stopped working. I heard a clunk noise and it stopped but driver side still works. What should I check first? I'm guessing a shaft came off but don't know where it is located.
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I have a strange problem. My driver side low beam dont work and my right side high beam dont work. Try different relay (switching), check fuse, bulb etc. Also in my dashboard the right green arrow for the flasher always still on(solid).
If I activate (with the control arm) the right turn flasher the flasher light blink in the dash board and my outside flasher bulb flash but my left high beam also blinking in the same time!
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I have a 1994 Porsche 968 and I can not find the lowside AC charge port. Where it is?
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My 2006 Prius (Model NHW20) has a strange headlight problem. On the passenger side, the high beam light is out but the regular headlight works.
On the driver side, the high beam is working but the regular headlight is out.
I don't think it's the fuses but I'm not sure. No amount of interchanging the following fuses changes anything about the issue:
1. 10A H-LP HI RH
2. 10A H-LP HI LH
3. 15A H-LP LO RH
4. 15A H-LP LO LH
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It is like floating peacefully along in a canoe on a calm lake, and then being passed by a speed boat. Our 05 Hyundai Sonata sways/rocks violently left to right at speeds higher than 50 mph, when going over bumps, or around curves to the right. It also happens when being passed by tractor trailers on the highway, and when high wind gusts hit the car. It is worse when the car is full of our family and luggage. We just drove from New Hampshire to Georgia and back dealing with this frightening problem the whole way. The Hyundai dealership in Buford Georgia said it was our struts, so we get new rear struts. Unfortunately we discovered that was not the problem once we hit the highway to head home. The problem persisted. Our local mechanic in New Hampshire does not see anything wrong, but said it is missing the splash shield under the engine which may cause uneven wind pressure. I truly feel that something is very wrong, but do not know what.
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