Ford A/C :: How To Prevent Overheating
Mar 14, 2011
I will be towing my 8800 lb 5th wheel over Cabbage Hill in Oregon at the end of June. It is about 12 miles of 6% grade going up. Going to Salt Lake City area. I will be using my signature truck.
I will flush my system using Gooch's Flush Procedure...installing all new hoses...16lb radiator cap...and will use 2 gallons of Fleetcharge antifreeze and a bottle and a half of Supercoolant. My system works fine now, just want to make sure it is in top condition before I go.
Will this prevent overheating while crossing the mountains....or should I remove thermostat until I get in the flatlands?
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My commute is only 11.5 miles. 6 miles of it I can run 55-65. Am I building a carbon nightmare?
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I have an 09 F150 with oversized tires. What are my options for stabilizing the steering and preventing wandering? Can a steering stabilizer be added to the newer 150's?
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When I find a good deal I stock up, case in point we had a menards open up recently and with all their sales to get ya in there the washer fluid was 2 for a buck. well shoot I have 5 gallons at the house and i just ran out in the f150. problem its all summer stuff like only good til 32 degrees f. Its supposed to get to neg 9 here tomorrow night. solution my local grocery has had a sale on isopropyl alcohol for quite a while (I have alot of 16oz bottles stocked up) so I'm gonna pour 8 oz of alcohol in a gallon and see how that does me.I usually do throw in some alcohol in the winter time just in case. We don't see temps that low very often in st louis, on top of snow we are supposed to get here. so there ya have it if ya find yourself with a tank full of summer washer fluid or just have a bunch around throw in some alcohol and wash away the winter nasty from your windshield.
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I removed the driver's side glow plugs and injectors and put new o-rings and coppers on the injectors and reinstalled them. Then I tried to suck out the fuel and oil which had glugged into the primarily #8 cylinder and got no oil out.
Then I used a bump switch to push the oil out the glow plug holes and got no oil out of them. Then I did a compression test on the driver's side cylinders and installed new Motorcraft glow plugs.
I have not spun the engine since and it has been about three weeks since I did the compression test.
Tomorrow I am completing my hutch mod and reinstalling the fuel tank.
Did spinning the engine without the glow plugs in, force the oil and fuel out the exhaust valves?
Should I do something else to prevent hydrolocking before starting the engine?
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Is there any way to keep the interior lights and running board lights from coming on when you open the doors, really would like to keep them off all the time.
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I bored and tapped one of the spark plug holes in my Triton engine. And I used a long aluminum rod attachment for my air compressor to blow out the metal bits from inside the cylinder. I started with a full tank of air, and used it all up to try and get everything out that I could. But with my bore-scope I could see a lot left over along the edges of the piston. So two more times I filled up, and emptied the air tank (15 gallons, 150psi). Some more of the chips came out, but after the second time there were still some chips there, and the third time didn't work much.
My bore-scope doesn't have the best resolution, but I think there are a few chips that are stuck between the piston and the cylinder wall. Since there were only a few, and they are aluminum, I decided to do what I saw another youtuber do. I just started the engine for a few moments without the spark plug, so I might blow out any remaining chips (although he did it without first using compressed air at all.)
That was the first cylinder I bored, tapped, and installed an insert into. But for the other cylinders, I would like to avoid any metal bits left in the cylinder. But I can't think of any way to prevent some from wedging themselves between the piston and wall (if that's what is happening).
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2000 6.8 v10 F250 supper duty crew cab. 4x4 high switch's on (manual lock hubs installed) but 4x4 low will not engage. Brake input/out put tested good. Trans switch Park/"N" both test good. PCM reads switch output in all modes, (dash 4x4 selector). The only other issue I am having is the Vacuum is bad ( defrost default no blend door operation). Would vacuum loss prevent 4x4 lo range engagement (with manual hubs ) or should I go to the solenoid, relays on the case/ right fender?
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How to prevent the difficult to remove haze from heat on dash creating vapor residue & also reduces visibility on interior windshield and door windows glass. After thoroughly cleaning all interior glass and dashboard using a clean cotton lint free cloth immerse into a bucket with 1/2 gallon of fresh water, 2 tbsp. of dish soap and 1/2 cup of white vinegar then wrung out several times.I have two ways to keep haze from forming Purchase vehicle specific dash cover and or always put sun shade in windshield before getting out of car.
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I have the Chinese LED-stripe headlights, and I've been getting condensation in them lately. The weather hasn't been particularly warm, cold, or humid lately, but it happens every time I use them. It does evaporate over time, but it is quite a bit of moisture when it occurs (definitely noticeable, and dripping down the entire front inside the housing). With winter coming, I'm worried about this continuing to happen and freezing, etc. Is there something I might have done wrong when I installed them? This is not a case of water getting into the light housings--it almost seems like I need to do something to vent them, however, to see if that prevents the issue.
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I don't like cloudy, hazy, dull, yellow headlights so since the car like a year old, is there anyway can I prevent those headlights getting cloudy-yellow? Products that I could use? Does cook top cleaner work?
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Entrance way to my office parking garage is VERY steep. Aside from careful entry/exit is there a protective shield/device that I can apply to prevent paint damage to under carriage of front bumper?
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Is there a way to prevent the radio from shutting off when ignition is turned off? I would prefer if it shut off when the keys are removed. The book is not so friendly as far as finding this kind of information.
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Just picked up some VMR V701 18X8.5 with a 45 Offset in Gunmetal. Do I need Spacers to clear the brakes and prevent rubbing for the front and/or rear? If so, how many mm?
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Most of the sedans I've owned in the last 25 years had a way to prevent the trunk from being unlocked from the inside without the non-Valet key. Sometimes it would be by turning the trunk lock in a particular way, or there might be a way to disconnect the passenger compartment lever with the non Valet key.
On this base model Camry however, it seems the trunk will always unlock with the hand lever, and the valet key is only for keeping the glove box locked. Is this right?
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I'm trying to find a fix that will prevent the ipod integration from auto playing the top song while scrolling from the nav screen. I also own a 2010 RX350 and Lexus took care of that for me. Do Toyota has a fix for my 2010 XLE NAV??
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How to alter the function of the automatic door locks to change to, say, lock the doors automatically at 15mph or lock the doors when shifting from Park. What I wanna know is how do I disable this feature altogether? I don't like auto-locking doors in any instance.
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I am the original owner of a 2012 Santa Fe 3.5 AWD Limited. Ever since Day One, the vehicle has had a very touchy accelerator pedal. Even with light and slow pedal pressure, the vehicle accelerates quickly from a stop. Is there any type of adjustment I can make to prevent the rapid acceleration? I was hoping to get used to it, but it still bugs me a little bit.
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So I dont have the money to but a new intake, I am having problems with water getting into my cold air intake under the car. What i could do or something cheap to buy to prevent this problem??
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With colder weather upon us here in the States, many of us are experiencing ICE startup with turning the cabin heat on or trying to defrost the front windows. The seat heaters go a long way towards not having to turn on the cabin heat and triggering the ICE, but that doesn’t solve the window defrosting issue.
I was thinking today as we got the first of our seasonal rains here around the Sacramento area, and the ICE kicking in while defrosting the windows, it would be nice to have another non-ICE solution for this. I’m not sure if the technology yet exists, but if there was a defrosting system on the front and side windows similar to the defrosting grid of the rear windows, but invisible to the eye, this might do the trick.
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As the topic line states, would you put some type of coating on the audio/climate remote control to prevent the rubber from wearing out? I can envision if I'm using it frequently, over time, the rubber part is going to wear out.
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