Ford A/C :: High Pressure Cut Off Stops The Compressor
Sep 22, 2010
I just had the good fortune of buying a 1988 F250 Diesel (IH 7.3 non turbo) from an older couple - few miles, always garaged and always dealer serviced. It hasnt been driven muvch in the last few years and has only 67K miles.
The air conditioner isnt blowing cold. It was converted to 134a by the dealership in 2000 with all the correct fittings, labels etc - a nice conversion. When I attach a guage to the low side the compressor starts up, the pressure quickly rises to approx 45lbs and what I presume is a high pressure cut off stops the compressor, the system pressure then quickly drops and the compressor restarts. the whole cycle only takes about 15 seconds or so...
I assumed that slow leakage over time had occurred so began by adding a small amount of a combination of 2oz of oil and 2 oz of 134a...I saw no difference in the pressure fluctuations nor the cycle times so shut down the system. There are two valves (needle valves) on both sides of the compressor but they don't look closed.
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I'm trying to add some 134 to the AC to see if it will work at all. it slowly stopped last year. I got a charge hose and a can of just 134a. When I attached the hose the gauge pegs on the high pressure side. I know I'm on the low pressure side and the compressor isn't running. It starts and stops. Should the pressure be that high with the compressor not running?
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2000 jetta 2.0
I had my a/c checked out as it would not come on nor would my fans come on when the interior a/c switch was pushed and yes the switch lit up.
The mechanic said i needed a new compressor and high pressure switch.
Do I have to have the system evacuated first or can i change out the switch with the system loaded??
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2012 F250 6.2L - AC will be working well with all fan speeds, then airflow just stops and compressor kicks out. Will run (or actually not run) that way for 4-5 minutes, then all of a sudden the compressor kicks in and airflow restarts, and air is nice and cold for another 10 minutes or so when it'll cycle off on its own again.
I've tried all different combinations of AC/MaxAC/fan speeds/and temp settings with no change in behavior. Only occurs in warm weather when AC is on; when just using heat the blower never changes on it's own and everything is great.
BTW - I've looked through all the HVAC FAQs and probably 200 different threads that come up under different search terms, but haven't seen this particular problem. If it was just lack of cooling but airflow didn't change, then it'd be easy. Or if it was only blower issues in certain speed settings, that's got lots of fixes too. But nothing where cooling and fan quit and restart on their own together that I've found.
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Just rescued this 2004 from a driveway death. While checking out a no A/C condition I notice that the A/C compressor cycles on for about 10-15 seconds then stops, does this 4 times and then ends. System shows low pressure but doesn't run long enough to build up any. Need to get the OBD-2 tester on it.
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When I bought a used camry 5 years ago and drove it on the highway, my front tire busted and damaged the fender cuz it had too much air!! I wonder if it shows high pressure on my 2010 gen III Prius v with ATP. I know that the tires are special on this v version but still I like to keep a slightly higher pressure in the front ones because the lane keep assist feature works better with higher tire pressure. Summer is coming up so that gets me worried what to do with tire pressures.
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Installed new compressor, condenser, drier... Local shop wanted to charge $140 just to evac. Bought vacuum pump and gauges/hoses. Evaced the system, held -30 for 45 minutes. Started car and proceeded to add freon... Compressor would not engage. Low pressure showed 90lbs but would not take any more and compressor wouldn't engage...
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I posted in the minor warranty repair thread that among other issues my car was developing a creak in the dash. This noise is coming from the very forward most part of the dash were it meets the bottom of the windscreen. I know this for certain because if I apply pressure with my hand here the noise stops.
My vehicle is scheduled for it's first service next month and I was going to have this fixed. Problem is after looking at the hma service site and pulling up the crash pad removal procedures, it looks like it is not affixed to anything at the top portion closest to the wind screen. Seems to just be sitting there, with no mounting bolts or anything.
Also to remove the crash pad it looks like the entire dash needs to be taken apart. The noise has progressively been getting worse starting at the front centre part of the dash, to now running along the entire length corner to corner.
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I need diagnosing a problem on my 2002 Hyundai Accent LC. When I accelerate with the aircon on the engine stops accelerating at high RPM and when I accelerate from a stand still the engine hesitates and jerks! I don't understand what the problem may be coz it works perfectly after a cold start but after it warms it starts doing that.
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1999 F150 .... Been troubleshooting ac on my Dad's truck. Read the FAQ and after going through all the diagnostics on the ac (low-pressure switch, high-pressure switch, ac clutch relay, coil resistance all OK) I found issue with the clutch gap. I removed the washer in the clutch and put everything back together and the clutch is engaging properly now ( the gap is around .020 now) and seems to be working ok. I borrowed a set of gauges from a friend and want to verify the low and high side readings to see if the charge is adequate. Getting about 48F air out of the vents with outside temps around 85F. What the low and high side pressures should be running at that outside temperature?
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We have a 2003 GMC Envoy. Normally upon starting the car, the engine will rev high for a few minutes while driving and then it stops and returns to normal. However, this morning I was driving the car and it was revving high continuously. Every time I started from a stop at a light, it would rev up to 2 RPM's and continue higher while the car was just sluggish. I would let off of the gas pedal and it would drop back down and slowly shift but then it would return to making a loud revving sound as I stepped on the gas pedal. There are no lights lite up on the dashboard and everything looks normal except for the loud revving sound and the car being sluggish because of the high revving.
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I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0L. It's been blowing warm air ever since I got it (about a year ago). After doing some research online, I bought a gauge (low side port only) and some R134a. After hooking up the gauge, I got a reading of about 100psi. I'm not very technically inclined about cars, what could be wrong?
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After driving my 2007 sonata for around 10 minutes, there is a very high pitched squealing sound that is intermittent and stops when the brakes are tapped. I was told it may be due to a "brake sensor"??
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Truck has a high oil pressure leak, only leak i have found is in the high pressure rail, I cannot get to it till sat, or sunday. So I have to let the oil cool before I can start. Any way testing to find the right temp for Oil to thicken enough to Build? I've been here for hours and its went from 180's to about 100 now...
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I have a High pressure oil leak somewhere, and where it can be. I tore the oil rails out and replaced the nipple cup seals last night. I got it all back together and air tested it and sure enough a leak is present. I have no problem paying for your time (I always provide good beer). I can rebuild gas motors all day long, but these diesels has me thrown for a loop. The frustration I am experiencing is crazy at this point. All the injectors are new, and the dummy plugs and standpipes were replaced as well.
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I have a 94 ranger 5 speed xlt v6 4.0l 288k miles original engine. in the last month the oil pressure has gradually gone way up. a manual gauge shows 65psi at cold start ( in the 90* out side) after a minute of idle it dropped to 60psi, at 2k rpms the psi was 85+. also the water temp has gotten hotter to the point of almost being unsafe. it appears that in the hotter part of the day the psi goes higher. the oil and filter was changed 1200 miles ago. the cooling system has been update in the last year with a new radiator new thermostat. no cross contamination in the fluids, engine runs good other than gauges on dash showing water and oil getting close to unsafe range and manual gauge showing high pressure.
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I have replaced hpop, lpop gears and cover, stand pipes, dummy plugs, rebuilt high pressure rails, and i still have issues. The icp readings on torque pro are mostly below 100 hot. I am clueless... I ordered the icp air fitting but it wont be here until tuesday.
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I was watching a tv show a while back, I cant find the episode but I think it was performance tv, and they had a 6.0 L expert on there and he was saying they see a lot of high pressure oil rail end caps come loose and or pop out. He was saying that they tap/thread the end of the oil rail and put a threaded in cap? Does it make any sense, can it be done, is it worth doing?
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I have a 04 F350 Dually and I am not getting any oil to my high oil pressure. Truck will crank but won't turn over. The high oil pressure pump is fine. What am I missing?
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I have a 2009 Ranger 2.3 L manual with about 100000 miles. The engine was bogging down and I just found out that the MAF sensor is bad from testing it. In the process, I measured my fuel pressure to be 73 psi (manual says 60-65 psi). So I have two questions:
a.) Is there any chance of just cleaning the MAF sensor. The sensor has zero volts when running and warm (or .02 v) and barely changes when reving the throttle.
b.) Perhaps then the high fuel pressure is an unrelated issue. Is this so high that I must change the regulator as I have to change the pump as well? Might it be some other issue than the regulator which is what the Hayness manual says?
One theory I had for the high fuel pressure is that the bad MAF was leading to bogging and lean conditions and the computer was running the pump more to compensate but I think the computer might run the pump based on fuel pressure not the o2 sensor.
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Took truck to a mechanic he advised me that the no heat was because of high back pressure in engine...never heard of this before, is this a correct diagnosis? No heat, air blows through all vents, defrosters.
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