I have a 96' Ranger 4.0 5 speed. While driving, if I put the truck under a load such as going uphill or towing, the air conditioner fades out and blows warm air. Once I start downhill the air will come back on. It is much worse when towing.
View 6 RepliesHave towed or driven Class C MH for years, now have 2014 F150 Ecoboost. Pulls great.
Question: while towing up long incline, engine got hot, shot message through dash saying truck would shift gears to ovoid overheating. I have read I should lock out 5 and 6 on slow steady climbs. If I am in tow mode and want to downshift, how do I do that? I know I can shift entire thing to 2nd gear - but I assume that is not what we are talking about here. On this particular climb it was hot (100 out) and I was blocked in left lane going slower than I would have liked. RPMs were low.
Looking for detailed description of process. I also regularly use Tow/Haul. Sometimes on decline I will downshift to 2nd or 1st and not use brakes at all going down.
For the first time while towing a bumper pull trailer, started getting a very strong burning smell, only while going up decent size hills. After the climb, smell goes away. Kind of smells like burning rubber or wiring, but that should be constant and not just while up hill.
Checked tranny fluid and it didn't look burnt or low and never saw visible smoke. Have seen this discussed before but with no definitive conclusions. Truck has 150K on it and has long ago lost most of its towing power and the hills also drop the speed to around 45mph from 70 when I hit the big ones.
I have a 2001 excursion 7.3 4x4 with the 6.0L trans cooler. It is over heating when heavy, uphill towing is under way. I am guessing that my computer has been reprogramed at some point and more fuel is being injected than the radiator is designed to cool. I know my trans cooler is clean. I have tried cleaning the radiator and intercooler with a garden hose. I am considering a hood scoop or some sort of vents in the hood. When it over heats I turn on the heater and open the hood and the engine temps drop in just a few minutes so I believe that the engine needs more cooling or I need to slow down a bit on hills. Any other cheap fixes to get more air in to cool things under the hood more?
View 1 Replies'06 Power Stroke/136k miles.
This last weekend I was towing my rzr up hill and the tranny slipped, lost power, and the "Wrench" check eng came on. I pulled over, checked my fluids, checked for leaks, checked for smells, couldn't see anything visibly wrong.
Turned it back on and no other issues on the way to the camp site. On the way home, days later, same thing happened twice. Is the tranny going bye bye? Would it be worth it to get a flush for the possibility it just may be the fluid and maybe some sediments or something of the sort?
AND the bigger question is, if it is the tranny, should I trade this POS in, or replace the tranny? It has had a few problems lately with the turbo. Needs a new AC compressor. I didn't do much homework or know about the 6.0's before I bought this truck. After I bought this truck last year I heard about all the problems the 6.0's have and wished I would have went another route.
I can turn a wrench pretty decent (Aircraft Mechanic) but I have very little knowledge on vehicles, let alone this POS. I am apprehensive about doing a transmission or any big components without assistance. This is why I am trying to decide what the best option would be for the long run.
I have always seen other trucks blow black smoke with towing up a hill but mine for the most part has not. I pulled my 5er to CO this summer and notice my truck starting to blow black smoke. I consider myself a very conservative driver. I always stay around 65 MPH while towing and never push my truck up the hills. I always try to keep the RPM around 2000 and let the MPH fall where they may until I reach the summit. With the black smoke I'm starting to see what is my truck trying to tell me? It's not bad but would like to fix now before it becomes something more.
2001 F250, 4X4 crew cab, 7.3 with 205,000 miles.....
Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
It seems the local dealership has finally figured out why the rear ac blows warm while the front blows cold. It only took 5 trips.
The part # comes out to F75Z19A522AA or F75Z-19A522-AA. Its listed on Tousley and other online parts outlet but so far all that I have called said it is no obsolete and they are no longer available from Ford.
Rear inlet door actuator - obsolete part? Where I can find this part (I'll even consider used)?
Tested/checked the blend door, actuator, Low pressure cycling switch, compressor clutch and they all work. The accumulator does not condense, or at least that I've noticed. The gauge on a can of R134a reads 55 at 85 degrees outside. Anything else I can check to diagnose a problem?
View 4 RepliesI've noticed that my X in the winter does not seem to warm up as it should. I watch the temperature gauge and notice that it barely gets to the first mark in the operating zone of the gauge. The heater blows warm air but not hot. I think its the thermostat that needs replaced because in other vehicles I would see the temp gauge rise and then drop when the thermostat opened. I've flushed the radiator and changed the fluid and not difference. I did find the heater valve on the right side was unhooked from the vacuum line and plugged it back in but no change from that being connected. Anything else I should check?
View 5 RepliesI need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat with the 4.6 v8 and my engine had a piston slap so I replaced the engine with a used one and I put a new water pump on the engine. My problem is the heater does not get hot and it only gets warm when I get on the freeway and the rpms stay steady for a bit. but when i idle it just blows cool air. the heat door works cause I can turn it to cold air when I'm on the freeway and i just replaced the thermostat so I don't believe its that. It weird because the heater worked fine before I changed out the engine so i cant figure it out. the only thing i can think of is the water pump is bad out of the box. Could it be the belt or does spacing on the water pump have something to do with it. nothing is leaking.
View 7 RepliesHere's the situation....It blows cold for about 5 mins, then the air starts to warm and stays warm. I just bought the truck 06 350 crew cab and they supposedly charged the system. I'm wondering if it has a leak but it should start out blowing warm air? I just wanted some thoughts before I start throwing money at it.
View 1 RepliesMy AC has been acting up. It blows real cold most of the time, but every now and then the clutch kicks out (even at highway speeds), and it blows warm. If I accelerate, the clutch engages, and it blows cold again. If I decelerate, it stays disengaged. At idle, it will do the same, sometimes cold, sometimes no clutch. I added a can of 134 last week, didn't make a difference. I hooked up the manifold gauges today, and the low side was 45psi, the high side was 160psi. I let a little freon out of the system until the low side read 35psi, but the high side went down to 150psi. If I'm correct, the low side should be between 30 - 40, the high side 225 - 250? Why I'm seeing 35 and 150???
View 2 RepliesThe front a/c blows cold air but the 2nd row and back blows warm. Yes the temp dial is on cold on both dials. Is there a separate a/c clutch that I dont know about to ck the air gap? Is there a separate port to put freon in besides the front. I need to get this fixed because with my bulldogs in the back the heat will kill them.
View 14 Replies2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
So, I pretty unimpressed with the air in my 2011 SC 250. I keep the climate at about 69, and seems like is work about half as good as my 2010 F150 with climate did. When idling it blows almost warm, only cools when the RPMs are up there. My F150 seemed to be the same no matter what.
View 14 RepliesFord crown vic, 1999, 125k miles, no engine work has been done, did flush cooling system in spring of 2013 and put in a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water (from a jug). No problems for the summer of 2013, have been using heater with no problems until around Tuesday of this week.
Car runs fine, no leaks, coolant checks out good. BUT now.. My temperature gauge hardly moves (up) and the heater blows warm air only. If I am driving the gauge will not move, if the car sits running for awhile it will move up some and the heat will get warmer inside of the car. My guess maybe a stuck thermostat?
So the other morning I drive the 140 miles out of town to work for the week. when I pull up to the job site the cooling fans were revving really really high! never heard this before. then it went back to normal after I opened the gate and parked my truck and shut it off. I'm driving maybe 5 miles tops to the job and back to the motel every day. however that is far enough that my heater should be warming up and it's not even coming close to warm. it blows cold air. and to compound that I'm not sure the cooling fans are even working. they don't appear to be. Is there a connection here?
2011 xlt 4x4 super crew.....
I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
I recently acquired a 2003 Mercury Sable from a friend and there is a problem with the air conditioning. The car has digital controls. I select the Max AC button, turn the temperature all the way down (60) an the fan all the way up, but it only blows warm air. I can hear and see the AC compressor cycling fairly quickly. The clutch (I think) engages for about one second and it will reengage after about 5 seconds, but again, it only says engaged for about one second.
What could be the problem? I've read the AC system might not have enough pressure and needs to be recharged. Or... the orifice tube is clogged, bad AC pressure switch, or the actuator that closes the heater door might be disconnected.
How quickly should a properly functions AC compressor cycle? The car was not driven much over the past year or two as it was my friend's grandfathers. I may end up taking it to a shop but I don't want to get ripped off. How should I approach this?