Ford A/C :: EATC - Clutch Did Not Engage When Set On Max Or On Defrost
Feb 21, 2010
I recently purchased a 2003 Grnd Marquis that has EATC climate control. It was a cold day, snowing some and the heater was set to 72 degrees on floor/defrost mix. Several days later it warmed up to over 40 degrees so I decided to try the AC. When I switched over to Max AC, I still only got airflow through the defrost. Any airflow setting (floor, vent, AC, Max AC) only gets airflow through the defrost. Also, the AC clutch did not engage when I set it on Max AC or it is not engaged when set on defrost. Will replacing the EATC head unit fix it? Is this also why the AC compressor clutch does not engage?
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I have a 2005 F350 6.0 with 4 wheel drive.
Late last winter, the 4WD stopped working. I diagnosed it to be a vacuum problem. Like a moron, I purchased a vacuum pump and threw it in there, I just figured that it was bad. It turns out the new pump I bought was bad, but the old pump was fine... Go figure. At any rate, when I switch to 4WD, my HVAC goes to full defrost and the 4WD does not engage.
I think I've narrowed the problem down to the 4WD actuator, since if I hook the vacuum pump output directly to the hubs, the 4WD works fine. If I switch it into 4WD, I can hear the vacuum releasing in the actuator, but it doesn't seem like any vacuum actually gets routed to the hubs. It just opens to atmosphere.
I've noticed that after switching to 4WD, the actuator only "Releases" the vacuum for a few seconds, and then seems to close itself. Is this normal? If I cycle the 4WD selector from 2WD to 4WD repeatedly, it will continue to cycle.
1. Is there any way to service this valve, or should I replace it?
2. Is the valve acting normally?
3. Am I on track with this repair?
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I was finally told today, after several bouts of no EV on my 2014 Crosstrek Hybrid, lasting,1 to 3 days, that running the front windshield defrost PROHIBITS the use of the fully electronic engine. I came to this conclusion serendipitous on my own, but was not offered this explanation until today.
What is the best method to try to contact other Crosstrek Hybrid owners to gauge the validity of the explanation I was given regarding the operation of my hybrid? I have already posted to the Subaru forum.
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I have a 1999 Winnebago Motorhome on a F53 Ford V10 Chassis and the A/C clutch will not engage when turning on the A/C. I have check the Freon 134A and it appears to be fine (in the red zone) and actually put a jumper across the pressure switch connector (harness side) and it still will not engage. Is there a fuse within the circuit if so, where it may be located?
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On my 2001 Excursion the ac clutch went south over the weekend. I replaced the clutch with a factory clutch kit. Now the problems are baffling me.
I set the air gap at .020. The problem being when I turn the ignition switch on and turn on the ac switch the clutch does not engage. I still get cold air. When I start the truck and it runs the clutch is engaged without any problems, I turn it off and the clutch disengages.
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So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
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The patient: e99 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 "Million Mile" motor, 350k miles.
Symptoms: AC won't engage, low pressure PSI reading is over 85, past my needle's capability.
Story: Bought the truck and found a big fat rock hole in the condenser. Swapped condenser and dryer, vacuumed, oiled, and recharged the system. Worked great for 1 month. Now seems any time I turn the truck off or turn off the AC it sends the low pressure soaring above 85 PSI. If I "De pressurize" the system to normal, Turn the truck on, then the clutch engages, and things go back to normal, then below normal because I just depressurized 2 cans worth of the system. Add two cans and it's good to go.
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I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
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Sometimes in the morning the AC will work just fine, but after a while it stops working. It looks like the clutch will not engage and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. I'll take a picture later on today. I'm wondering which part is what, and what might be causing the problem.
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1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L 5 speed transmission. I am a little confused I can not get the transmission to engage the clutch, I replaced the clutch 3 weeks ago, now I have no pressure in the pedal, I have bleed the system 5 attempts with clean solid flow of fluid. What else can I do to fix this or trouble shoot from here?
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Says A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
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I have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
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I have a 2001 m5r2 ford f-150 standard transmission. i have replaced the slave cyl., the entire clutch assy., the master cyl. pilot bearing. the trans. will engage all five gears plus reverse while truck is off but will not engage a gear while running. i have bled and bled and bled and still will not engage.
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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I have '05 F250 King Ranch with EATC. I outside air temp doesn't update, it remains constant at the initial reading at start up. I have run the self test routine and the fault detect routine with no problems identified. The funny part is that after exiting the self test routines the outside temp seems to update normally, but after an ignition off time the problem returns. All other parts of the ETAC seem to be functioning normally.
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I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
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My buddy's '05 will not blow out of the dash vents, you can make the a/c blow out the defrost or the floor but no dash. Vacuum pump is working great, rarely ever kicks on and doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere in the system that I can tell yet. Pulling a vacuum on the red line will make it start blowing out the vents so the door is functioning.
I thought maybe I had narrowed it down to the ATC solenoid and manifold (Ford part #5c3z-19d611-aa) not working properly but found that the F-150 guys having problems with the o-rings on the back of the control head. Seems they replace the 4 o-rings and all is well, cheap easy fix. Are the units on the diesel set up that way too?
A quick search for EATC problems on the diesels didn't bring up much, seems they don't tend to fail. He's wanting to sell it and asked if I could try and fix the problem. It's been about a year since I last looked at it, so my recollection might be a bit foggy.
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
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In my '06 diesel with climate control I'm trying to figure out why it won't blow cold air and went to the internet to get the procedure to run the EATC diagnostics. Thing is, it wont run. I have the later EATC that has symbols on the face, not words. With the truck on and climate control OFF, I've tried pressing each button together with OFF, followed within 2 seconds by AUTO and it just turns on.
Specifically the lower vent symbol plus OFF followed by AUTO and the defrost symbol plus OFF, followed by the AUTO button. Is there something I'm missing or doing wrong? Also, is there a vacuum function controlled by the aux vacuum pump and valves found on the diesel trucks that could cause this malfunction?
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So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
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My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
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