I have a 1993 Ford F-250 super cab w/ 7.5 ltr engine 2wd. On a downhill at freeway speeds, foot off the gas, the A/C cuts out. When I step on the gas pedal again the cool air returns. The EEC IV has an output on pin 10 that can shut off the clutch, but I don't know what inputs it uses to make that decision. I know about the WOT condition, but this is the opposite of wide open throttle.
View 14 RepliesMy son's explorer, 4.0 automatic, developed a problem during a 90 mile trip on the freeway. Driving along at 75 MPH with the cruise set everything seems fine. As soon as he lets of the accelorator the engine drops to idle speed and a noise comes from under the truck that sounds like an old siren, starts low pitch and gets higher and higher. The noise stops when he touches the accelerator applying power to the drive train. The transmission shifts and pulls fine, no slippage. He said that for a while the 4WD light on the dash has been flashing six flashes, pause, six flashes.....a steady code.
View 5 RepliesOk - I admit, I don't have a good description of what's going on, but it's not normal. When I accelerate slowly, or go up a hill, I'm hearing a "rattling" sort of noise that did not used to be there. I have heard it also when slowly decelerating.
I need to crawl under and look, but my big concern is I'm about to go on a 2000 mile trip with a small horse trailer. Could this be a festering major engine, transmission, or otherwise problem?
I have a 1999 ranger 4x4 with a 3.0. automatic, extra cab.
I have noticed that sometimes (this has happened twice so far) on slowing down, (just letting off the gas) it will make a large clunking popping noise like you hit a large pothole and bottomed the truck out (or if you had hit a small animal) However, both times nothing was in the road way and no damage was done to the truck. both times it has been in 2high.
The truck does not swerve, grab or anything funky other than make a loud CLUNK every now and then.
This has happened when you let off the gas at about 25mph and coast along. (it may be when you apply gentle throttle to keep rolling, but I can't remember, I was not driving the truck this time, the first time it happened was several weeks ago and I put it off as a freak happening). I will check the usual suspects, u joints, ect, but I was wondering if there could be something else happening...vperhaps something in the front diff? or transfer case? It kinda felt like it came from the front of the truck.
So, I'm minding my own business pulling out of Starbucks with my gingerbread latte, making a nice and easy right turn when I hear "clunk" ("pop" maybe??). I hear a scraping/whirring sound on deceleration only (once I get past say 30-40 miles per hour). NOT brake related at all, occurs only when I let up on the accelerator. My baby is a 2000 Ford Taurus with 238,000 (yep, you read that right). I'm thinking transmission (and, I really want to be wrong). I've had the transmission flushed every 30,000 miles and serviced at 150,000 per Ford's maintenance schedule. I have taken very good care of my vehicle, but I do put a lot of miles on it every day as I drive 120 miles round trip to work 5 days a week.
View 8 RepliesI recently put an accidental extra 4 quarts, and I know hear a low thump ie like a piston but the engine runs fine and there is no power loss, just a simple draining off the pain I hope. The engine runs fine just notice this small metallic rhythmic thump on acceleration, and deceleration.
View 2 RepliesOn deceleration with the brakes (not coast to slow) I get a growling. Sometimes a bit worse than others. Seems to get worse coming up to about 20mph from speed. No other time. I was thinking front wheel bearings as the load up from deceleration. But I just jacked it up and could not find anything that felt or sounded wrong. No play or grind or "bad" feelings in either of the fronts. Front end recently rebuilt, new tires too.
View 9 RepliesI bought a 95 Explorer with a known bad transmission, rebuilt it (broken band and chipped intermediate apply piston), put it back in, and now it's acting odd.
It wants to start in third. I can manually start it in second (first rarely works), shift it to drive at about 30, and it's fine. It shifts into OD, locks the TC, and when given a bit of gas kicks down to second. It downshifts during deceleration, but once I come to a complete stop, it'll try to start in third again. The only transmission code it's giving is for incorrect first gear ratio, there is an off and on engine code for the EGR pressure sensor as well.
I have a 2000 5.4 4x2 with about 118k. the pinion seal was leaking. I replaced the seal and added proper amount of 75/140 diff fluid as listed on the tag. I marked the pinion nut, flange and housing, so I could count the number of turns it took to remove nut. I put back the same but now I have a whine at low speed on deceleration. under normal throttle and at higher speeds it sounds just fine. Its just on deceleration and at 5mph or less. The sound was not there before I did the new seal.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1986 Ford Ranger that the battery light comes on and all lights get bright at 900 rpm on acceleration, and all lights dim and light goes off at 900 rpm on deceleration. I have replaced the battery, alternator and starter since getting the truck. I have also run ALL the wiring and found only 2 breaks which were repaired. I have had to replace headlights 3 times in two weeks, due to them blowing.
View 5 RepliesI had some vibration occurring during deceleration and though it was either the slip joint or the rear u-joint because I could sense some movement back there.
After I replaced the u-joints and properly serviced the slip joint I still had the issue (although it was a little better). I now see that there is a little bit of play in the pinion shaft. I can't really shake it back and forth, but if I hit it hard upward it clearly has play.
What should I do next? I have read a bunch, but would like to get an expert to chime in.
2004 Foed Freestar, the A/C has started blowing less than cool air in the past sveveral days. I'm assuming its low on refrg. but how does one check by visual inspection? If it is low will a simple re-charge kit w/guage and super dupper leak sealant do the trick? I saw a kit at Advance Autoparts for manufactured by Interdynamics. It had a guage w/trigger release for can content and three 12oz. cans of R134a. Will this kind of kit work?
View 6 RepliesWhen I get up in the mornings and make my 10 mile commute to work my AC is icebox cold, I could hang meat in there. But after a long long day (about 9 - 10 hours) when I get back in my 96 Explorer to head out -- driving about 30 miles -- the AC never gets cool. It feels like it's just a vent siphoning in the hot air from the outside. This has been going on for about the past week. What could be causing this issue?
View 13 RepliesWhen moving, I receive mildly cool air, when sitting still (traffic or lights) the A/C becomes warm. The air doesn't change outlets, velocity is the same. Other than checking pressure, what other possibilities... I am going to have it serviced.
View 6 RepliesIf I am going over 60MPH and let off the gas pedal (decelerate, no brakes) I get a bad rattle/vibration that shakes mainly the dash front. only happens when I let off gas pedal. As long as I am giving gas the Bronco runs smooth, no vibration/rattle at all.
I just changed..Front Rear Brakes, Repak Front Wheel Bearings. New Front Rear Shock (deutch Tech), new track bar poly bushings, greased all joints axles, changed rear diff fluid (bottle of transX diff additive 85W-90 gear oil). It did the same thing before all this too and it is intermittent (but more so than not). Sometimes it is really violent (feels like the whole truck is going too shake loose, other times it is fine.
I am going on a long trip Thursday and this is bothering me. Cant pin point problem. One note i towed a boat for the first time last sunday and the problem went away, i.e., more wait in rear? Alignment,tires,driveshaft? I really dont have time to do anything except minor adjustments before I leave.
I have a 1999 F250SD with V10 and the compressor recycles about every 4 to 5 seconds and doesn't cool very much. I checked the 134a level and according to my gauge it has sufficient level. What could be my problem.
View 4 RepliesAs the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition. We noticed a few weeks ago that the A/C was not cooling like it used to, and now it does not cool at all. No cold air from either the front vents or the rear system.
Tonight it is 65 degrees ambient and the clutch is cycling about every 8 seconds. Every time it cycles I hear a hissing/rushing water sound under the passenger-side dashboard.
Is there's anything that I can check myself, or if I need to take it to a mechanic. I can do basic part replacement but am not qualified enough to take apart a charged system.
I have a 2007 6.0L 4x4 it has 225k on it. I just had it into the dealer this past week (which we just purchased end of June) they replaced back pressure sensor and #7 injector. Now when you get to about 70-75 on incline it is decelerating and hesitate and looses some of its power.
View 4 Replies2004 F350 single rear wheel with 8" suspension (springs) lift and 37" tires all put on in 2005. Having low speed vibration 15-20 mph on accel and decel. Recently put on thick aluminum rear dif cover and vibration seems to have come since that install. Used Mobile synthetic fluid and 4 oz of Motorcraft antifriction additive and 4 oz of off brand. The Mobile fluid and antifriction have been in my barn for over 5 years in the winter and summer. I just changed the carrier bearing and all U-joints look good. Any chance the fluid and antifriction additive could be causing this? Truck has 66k miles.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 excursion 7.3L. It has started dying lately after I let off of the pedal and the vehicle slows down and the engine is supposed to go to idle but sometimes it dies. It will start back up right away. It has begun to start a little rougher especially after it dies. I have replace the CPS and I got new batteries.
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