03 F350 7.3PSD... A/C blows cool on max only but does not blow real hard on high.
Blower motor is loud like it is blowing but just not coming out of vents. On reg A/C blows hot, actually blows hot on all other settings.
A/C compressor is on but blows hot through vents. I am thinking blend door and or something else. Thing is I am not sure what or where to look and how do I check?
I have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
View 1 RepliesMy fan sounds like its blowing hard on high but air flow seems to be restricted some. I have noticed a sound of the fan hitting leaves in the past. I just don't know how they get in there. It still cools good but air flow is nice when the temperature is close to 100.
96 Ranger 2.3 XLT Regular Cab ...
My blower motor does not blow hard on high. 2009 AVALON.
View 3 RepliesMy 2013 ford f150 4x4 ac does not blow very cool air . We have charged the compressor and that did not work. Then we Vac it down and replaced the expansion valve and recharged the compressor, still the same. Also on the max high setting the blower is really loud?
View 6 RepliesJust went on a trip to SC. It was hot as hell - 100F most of the trip. The a/c would blow cool (not exactly cold) for a while and then go luke warm (way better than outside but not particularly refreshing) for a while. So I was reasonably comfortable but definitely not cold.
This would happen about every 15-30min where I felt like the compressor had stopped working for a while. I am thinking the compressor is probably limping along and about to die. Usually I thought these things just up and die though. Clogged accumulator? IDK - nothing has been done to the a/c system since 2009 head gaskets.
I have a 2005 f150 4 Dr. My fan sounds like it's going to come thru my glove box. I replaced the blower resistor and that did not work. I have cold air blowing out, it just gurgles real bad. And it's hot out.
View 5 Replies2004 Foed Freestar, the A/C has started blowing less than cool air in the past sveveral days. I'm assuming its low on refrg. but how does one check by visual inspection? If it is low will a simple re-charge kit w/guage and super dupper leak sealant do the trick? I saw a kit at Advance Autoparts for manufactured by Interdynamics. It had a guage w/trigger release for can content and three 12oz. cans of R134a. Will this kind of kit work?
View 6 RepliesAs the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
I have a 89 f250 4x4 351W FI C6 Auto, recently I was having problems with the trans it was revving up real high before it went into 2nd. I dropped the pan and the valve body to make sure their were no shavings or any other debris. Everything ok.
So I replaced the valve modulator and the line that goes to the intake, replaced the MLPS and adjusted the intermediate band. I put it all back together and NOW it won't even go in gear. Did I hook up the valve body wrong? If so what is the proper way of doing it?
I only unbolted the valve body from the trans I didn't take it apart. I was also wondering whats up with the color strips on the modulator I have purple right now was i suppose to have different color? Could the pin for the modulator not be in place? I added 3 quarts is that to much or not enough?
AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
I took my truck to a friends express lube to have some freon added to it. My truck has been blowing cool air, not cold. So i thought it might be low on freon considering its a 2000 f-150 w/ 145,000 miles. He took a pressure gauge to it and said it is over charged, the pressure was high.
View 13 RepliesWe are having an issue with the front air not blowing cool all the time. Sometimes if we hit a bump or something its like something is jogged and it blows colder but the rear air always blows cold. Also the front air blows colder with the rear air on. I put gauges on it and I have the right amount of refrigerant in it. What I can do.
View 10 RepliesIn my 08 Expedition I notice the a/c compressor cycles on for 18-25 sec. then off for about the same. This is with an ambient temp of about 75f. A/C seems to be blowing cool air-never was really cold since new. The idle drops/surges a bit when the a/c kicks on also-which is what grabbed my attention. Is this a normal or is it short cycling?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius, purchased 5 months ago with 100k miles, and it currently has 106,000 miles.
The air conditioning blows cool, but not cold. When the A/C is turned on, it makes an unpleasant whining noise. I have a recording of it.
It did not make this noise 5 months ago, and the A/C output was colder then. I haven't used the A/C that much over the winter, but it's starting to warm up now and I've noticed it's not doing as well as it used to, and it isn't sounding very good either.
2008 F250 Lariat ... A/C is blowing real weak in all modes and temperatures. Did some reading and found that the evaporator and heater core could be clogged. I am just going to go ahead and assume taking the dash out of the truck and replacing both heater core and evap core would be the best fix. On to my question.. Where are the main mounting points for the dash?
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 ranger in 4x4 high never did this. And in 2wd it doesn't pull at all...
When in 4x4 high it pulls hard to the left ?????? is left not working? It has automatic hubs ...
I have a 1998 f150 4.6 that has a problem with the heating system. It's blowing out a little warm, but "far" from what it should be. ( on a scale from 1-10, I'd rate it about a 3) I am puzzled because I flushed the radiator, changed the thermostat, and there a no signs of heater core leaks inside,hose leaks on firewall, or radiator/water smell present. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I did notice the top radiator hose was hot, but not the bottom. I don't know what else to look for.
View 5 RepliesMy 302 runs pretty good when all warmed up. It has some cold start issues every now and then, but is easily dealt with. My question is how to best "tune" the carb. It's a 600 cfm 4150/60 style Holley single pump, vac secondaries and electric choke. About as basic as you can get. I think I have the fuel level set correctly. I also think I have the "idle mixture" set right. I used a vacuum gauge and moved back and forth between screws till I got the highest vacuum. Is there a better way than that? I have the idle set correctly. the fast idle is a little high, but I can fix that.
Now, my real question is how to fix the hiccup and stumble I get many times when I step into it pretty good. I assume that this is the point the carb is going from idle circuit to main circuit. It stumbles when I get on it real hard from a standing start. I can roll slowly and step into it and it stumbles as well. I also like to blip the throttle when I down shift (it has a manual tranny by the way), and many times I'll blip it and get nothing. Now, it runs fine after the stumble all through the rpm range. That's the only time it stumbles. so, do I need more accel. pump shot?? To compensate on the transfer of circuits.
I also notice when I on it real hard, during the shift right when I jump on it, under the heaviest load, I hear a bit of spark knock. It's not running hot, and the timing is good. Do I need a bit bigger jets? I'm thinking it's going a bit lead during that time, but I don't have any real way to measure it.
Two days ago, I was driving on a North GA steep, windy, mountain road in my 2002 v6 4.0 Ranger. All of a sudden, i started revving real high (about 4000rpms) and getting no power (20mph). I pulled over immediately and transmission fluid was pouring, by the quart, out of my truck. I didnt get to look exactly where it was coming from, since i backed away once i saw a small flame coming from the leak. i then called a tow truck (assuming it was a seal or a hose break) and had it towed to my house.
I started investigating the possible problems and didn't really see anything noticeable under the truck (not that I was expecting to). So what I did was put three quarts of transmission fluid in the dipstick hole and put in gear to see if I could spot a leak. nothing. then I drove it around the block to get it warmed up and put a little pressure on the transmission by driving up a semi-steep hill to see if that would spark the leak again. still no sign of the a leak.
And finally, when I went to go check the dipstick after my test drive, it read to be above the cross hatched area, hence being overfull. What my next step should be?
I bought this truck for work and all of a sudden it will rev real high when I press the clutch in to switch gears or when sitting at a light. I stopped at a parking lot and popped the hood and tried to pull the throttle back by hand but it will not go. There is a lil slack in the throttle cable but when the truck is off and I manually pull the throttle back it returns normally.
I was wondering if the little black electronic box opposite where the throttle hooks to the throttle body is making it rev so high? I really don't know a lot about these newer trucks as I have driving older trucks my whole life so probably using wrong terms...