Ford A/C :: Compressor Will Cycle Quickly Like Low On Freon
Jul 8, 2009
Ok, '99 F450 has had a/c problem for couple years and finally getting around to fixing it(co. truck and enough people complained).
When dead cold, compressor will cycle quickly, like low on freon. Low side goes from 40 to 20 and back again as it cycles. Put a set of good gauges on it today and I can't get it to turn on at all. Even jumped both hi and lo switches.
Originally I was thinking it was the clutch, but when cold I was able to jump switches and make it run continuously. I didn't have gauges then and didn't want to burn it up so now I have gauges and it won't come on at all(when warm). Will have to wait a couple days til I can try it again when cold(like in the morning before it gets used).
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I had to replace one of my Ac lines. The skinnier one.I have never seen the air work in this car. That line was broke since I have owned it.
I went to try and fill it today with r134. I have as much pressure on the low side as I can put in. (55 says the cheap gauge) But when I turn the car on the clutch does not engage to cycle the freon so no cold air. What I know,The fans do not turn on when Ac button pushes.The connector to the compressor only read 4v. I cannot get any number on the high pressure switch connector. (3 pin)
I don't know if it just doesn't turn on because nothing in the high side? Is there a way to bypass? I read jumping the switch is a bad idea.
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I got a 2001 f150 leaking freon on the back of the compressor, can't afford to fix this summer. When I add freon should I get the freon with oil in to get oil in the system or just add regular can of freon, it took about 6 weeks before I need to add any.
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OK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
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Of course my freon all leaked out of the AC compressor and it is squealing pretty bad. I did not want the serpentine belt to break due to a seized compressor so I looked for a bypass pulley kit. Naturally they make one for both gas engines, but not for the diesel. So out comes the string and sharpie, and trips to 2 different auto parts place to get the correct length belt after trying several that were too short. It's 103 inches (8 groove) for future reference to bypass the ac compressor and upper extra pulley. 7.3 diesel.....
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Seems like my 2001 f350 7.3 has an ac freon leak on pass side near compressor. AC is blowing coolish air but not cold like is should be. There is green like oil around main line leading out of ac compressor. I have attached several pics to illustrate situation.
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So I bought a 2004 Jetta with the 2.0 engine yesterday. I got the car pretty cheap and was told that the issue with the A/C was because it was low on freon. I've never owned a Volkswagen before, but I assume A/C units are all similar. So I go to put in some freon into the low end of unit. I get about half of a 12 oz can or so in and I hear a loud Psst or shooting of the propellant. I look down and it looks like the the side of the compressor shot the oil filter with the coolant. I'm not sure if I sprung a leak of if it was just a valve that releases when there is too much pressure. I've only driven it for about 10-20 mins since and I can still occasionally hear the Psst sound. It is 96 degrees in my area if that makes a difference or not?
Some other information, I noticed that the compressor kicks on, but only for like a second or two and then it shuts off for about 15 seconds or so and then repeats itself. What could be wrong?
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Ok, so I have a Viair onboard compressor supplying air to airbags, train horn and fitting in the rear. With all that, I have multiple connections and some leak ever so slightly making the compressor cycle ever few hours. Question: Is there some sealant I can use with push on fittings and connectors to eliminate the leaks?
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Whenever I use the a/c on the 88 camry it blows hot air unless you driving very fast when the vehicle is idling it seem to heat up again you can hear the compressor cycle on and off so that would mean the compressor needs replacing right? And also when I replace it do I need to get a new receiver dryer and filter for it?
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Decided to put the AC on one day but nothing but warm air, observed compressor didn't cycle. Why this would suddenly occur and why?
Vehicle is a 98 tahoe.
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The ac compressor on my 2003 vue cycles rather quickly after operating for several minutes. The ac blows cold inside and stays cold. When I first turn on the ac, the ac compressor stays running while the vue cools down but after several minutes of operating the ac compressor begins to cycle a few seconds on and a few seconds off. Seems to me it is cycle too frequently?
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Just got done replacing a compressor, dryer, and orifice tube, flushed all hoses and the evaporator and condenser, blew everything out several times with compressed air, hooked up the vacuum pump and let it run for almost an hour and when I went to put in the new freon, it won't pull it into the system. Low side jumped up to 100psi when I opened the valve to the can and the high side is reading right about 100psi also but the freon is not flowing into the system. Without tearing everything back apart, I thought I would check what could be the problem. I jumped the low pressure switch and the compressor is running.
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2003 Ford Ranger .. ac:system is over pressurize when I add freon the clutch goes on and off.Is there a high pressure switch for something
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I had a new engine put into my 2006 F350 SD 5.4 last year and ever since then I can't keep the freon charged in my ac. The mechanic said all he did was lay the compressor out of the way and didn't disconnect anything ac related. I have 2 different shops keep my truck for a couple days and neither could find a leak. Yet a month later, freon is low. I think I have more dye in my system than freon.
I put 2 of those ac leak sealers, the ones you have to ask for behind the counter and can keep my ac working for maybe 45 days, then throw 3 cans in it. No dye is showing up nor will the sniffer find anything. I hate to go to the dealer because I figure they will want to replace everything. Any tips other than try another shop and maybe they can find the leak.
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So I've worked on this A/C for 3 years, I don't drive this truck very much or often, partly because the A/C doesn't blow cold. Its a 99 f250 7.3 ... Here's what I've done, first it was low on Freon so I added some and it got cold, take off driving and it gets hot. After some research I check the clutch air gap and pull a washer. This changes nothing, I put a valve on the heater core, so I could manually shut it off just in case.
This year I replace the compressor because the clutch isn't staying engaged when I revved it up in neutral. I went ahead and replaced the drier and Orifice Tube, the orifice tube was clogged up. So I start recharging the system, and I get 2 3/4 cans in and its blowing cold, low 50's high 40's its 75 degrees outside. The gauges read 35 low and 300 high, I'm a little confused cause it was suppose to hold 41oz from what I looked up but ok.
I rev the motor just to check everything out, the low side heads down for a second then starts going up, the high side starts going up and doesn't stop. The high side goes all the way till it hit the high pressure switch 450 wow. I'm thinking its over charged, I let it idle and the compressor kicks on and the low is around 50 and the high is at 350. So I rev it up again 1800 rpms or so, and the low side drops down and so does the high side. Except this time the low side drops down to 15 " I had the low pressure switch unhooked and looped" and the high side around 225.
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My son just got a 2001 Explorer Sport. Among the minor issues that need taken care of is an interesting situation with the wipers. The wipers only function when you press the wash button. It operates fine with wash, it parks fine after wash cycle. However, I get no response from any settings in the normal wiper switch. Where to start looking? Bad connector? Switch? It does have a tilt wheel, wire pulled out of connector?
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My nav. when I put the air cond on auto and lower the temp so the air comes on, it blows out the vents on the front of the dash like it should and is cold. Then after about 30 seconds give or take, I hear a door deep inside the dash shut, or open, then the cold air only comes out the dash vents that are the defrosters for the windshield.
Then I can make it go back to the front vents again by pushing the button on the heater control to make the cold air come out the front vents again, but then it does the same thing again. Whats going to need to be replaced/repaired?
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2010 Escape with 74,000 miles. Backstory: This is my daughters car who is away at college about 300 miles away. About a year ago the engine started hesitating when driving and would stall to idle at highway speeds. She took the car in to dealer and they replaced the Throttle body under the CSP that had been issued just prior to the dealer visit. All was fine for about 3 months, then she reports that the car is doing the same thing. Check engine light briefly illuminates and goes right back off when this occurs. She is able to slip the car into neutral and it seems to correct the malfunction. Unfortunately she has gotten so good at this that she keeps her hand on the gearshift when driving. It seems to happen at various speeds with no warning and no lasting effects.
She came to visit for Christmas and I was able to replicate the problem after about 30 minutes of city driving, but not quick enough to take a picture of the wrench that illuminated briefly. I slowed to the edge of the road, put it in park and turned off the key (engine ran the whole time at idle). Cranked back up and good to go! She had the oil changed about a thousand miles ago, I replaced the air filter last night and she had to return to her house for work in the next couple of days. She said it happened 5 times on the way home last night.
Car has always been serviced regularly and was a certified pre-owned when we bought it in March or so of 2012. I also bought the extended warranty although that may be expired by now.
Her local dealer said they can't fix it if the CEL is not on or the problem is not occurring at the exact time they have it in the shop. Now, I am not sure but was under the impression that the computer would record any codes and store them even if the light went off and the car returned to normal.
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I've got a 2000 F350 PSD XLT. When I turn on the AC it runs and cools fine. However, the first time the clutch cycles off or you select another position then back to an AC position the clutch will not reengage. The high and low pressure check good. How to trouble shoot this.
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On my 2011 the gauges would cycle when I turned the key on... My 2014 doesn't... Is there something wrong or has Ford changed the sequence? ...
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I have a 2011 Ford F150 FX4, And for a while now i have been having a issue with the gauge cluster.
while driving once in a while all of the gauge cluster turns off then back on within a couple of second. all the lights for the traction control, air bag, engine.... turn on and then turn off just like when you start the truck.
The issue only last for a couple of seconds. And it can go for a day before doing it. Brought it to the Ford dealership and they said unless the gauges are completely off there is nothing to go on by. Also once in awhile the check advancetrac comes on and will be off next time i start the truck. Same thing dealer said there was no codes and nothing then can do.
I checked all the connection at the fuse box, gauge cluster. and no issues. had the truck running and try wiggling all of the connectors, in the truck one by one with no success in duplicating the issue.
Also notice that once in awhile my signal light will flas extremely slow when having the blinker on.
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