Ford A/C :: Compressor Stay On Always?
Apr 19, 2012
Okay...it's a GMC but the forum I use for it kinda blows.
The AC Compressor stays on even if the HVAC controls are all in the off position. In fact, I completely disconnected the controls and it still operates.
Problem is that it won't cycle (on & off) and I risk breaking something expensive.
If your truck had this problem, where would you start?
What I do know:
1. The relay is good as I have a brand new one in there.
2. Someone just put two 12oz. cans of R143a in it for me.
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2009 F-150 XLT Super Crew 5.4 engine. The compressor cycles, but too often to get the interior cold. It has always been like this. While still in warranty Ford said it is fine. A good mechanic hooked it up to his machines and it seemed there is a sensor that said discharge temperature was below zero. Not even close. If there is one, where is this sensor? Is there a way to bypass this proble?
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99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
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I have a truck, info is in my sig, and the A/C system has lost it's charge. I haven't had the truck too long and don't know how long it's been since it's been ran. I have a little background in A/C and refrigerants so I just have a couple of questions. Since this system leaked down to atmospheric pressure, how do I go about removing the oil from the compressor? I might have to remove the compressor but was trying to avoid it. I can if I need to. I know that it's R134a and it uses POE oil that is azeotrophic so you can't remove all the water and the remaining water will turn to sludge and acid. I know that I should probably change the drier and all the o-rings, but is there anything else that would need to be changed?
I know that the pressure switches are good, or at least the low pressure, because when I put some refrigerant in my girlfriends car because of a leak, I put the rest in my system to see if I could get the system to turn on and cycle. It did and I shut it off. The system was at 0 psig when I put the gauge on it and it took about 3 weeks for it to complete leak back down to 0. The compressor sounded good so I would think that it would just be a small leak. I think that the low pressure switch saved the compressor when it was low on charge. Am I overlooking anything? I have a manifold set and a good vac pump. I think I can just charge it back up to factory charge after I fix the leak and go from there.
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I just did the r12 to r134a conversion and full recharge thinking the compressor would turn on once a certain amount was added but it does not. I read elsewhere that you can use a paper clip to jump the A/C clutch switch and force it to turn on. I tried that by sticking each end of the paper clip into the switch (wire side) and the only thing that happened was my engine idle went up a little. I never heard the compressor kick on. Maybe a bad switch? I also read somewhere that the easiest way to bypass the clutch switch is to jump the a/c relay. Where is this located?
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My 2001 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 has only 78K miles and the AC works very well as long as I don't drive on the highway! Once on the highway and I go about 50 to 60 miles an hour, the compressor kicks on and off about every 10 seconds or so, and the cooling definitely becomes less. Tonight I parked the truck in the driveway and let it idle and the AC worked fine --- I got it up to about 2500 RPM's and the AC once again went off and on rapidly. I just had the system checked once again this month at a different shop and they tell me I have no leaks and that it comes out cold and it must be because it has been so hot in St. Louis that it just can't handle it when I'm driving at higher speeds.
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2003 F150 SuperCrew 5.4L, 4X2 Air Conditioning worked perfectly last night. Nice and cold. This morning, no worky. AC compressor clutch is not engaging. Here is what I've done, engine running, Max AC, clutch will not engage compressor:Jumpered low pressure line switch Jumpered high pressure line switch Wiggled switch on compressor (could not get it to release, because I couldn't figure it out) Clutch will turn by hand, engine running and not Attempted to service low pressure port, but since the compressor was not running, the pressure at this port was 80+ PSI. Checked AC clutch relay, AC Fuse, and AC diode Because it ran so well just 12 hours ago, I feel like it something electrical.
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After 3rd consecutive stop, my focus will not stay running It turns over but shuts off promptly. After one hour it starts again without a problem. It does this only in the summer, but it has never overheated,and it has never left a code. I replaced the following Battery, alternator, fuel pump,fuel pump relay, themostat and housing, crank and cam sensor, oxygen sensor. What could the problem be?
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Vehicle 97 Expy, 5.4 XLT 2x4, air leveling and tow pkg.
Situation: installed TransGo SK E40D spring kit to cure 1st to 2nd hard shift. It did the trick and shifts great up to a point.
Issue: Now after replacing the springs, any and I mean any added load (mild incline, lane change) while in OD it will downshift, won't shift up unless going down hill and I'm sucking gas. 1st-3rd is great, but it will not stay in OD to save its life.
I believe the cure is to reinstall the old OD springs, but I don't know which set that is in the accumulator body? I also could be wrong and it may be something else.
Update: found the instructions, need to know if the 4th Accumulator piston is OD?
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My 2001 Expedition 5.4L sat for 2+ years and due to a new child, I put it back on the road late last fall. Last week, we had our 1st "must use AC" day and it didn't work.
I listened to see if the compressor was cycling and it never engaged. I picked up a gauge and r134a kit.
Outside temp was about 60F, I think my therm was showing 57F to be exact. When I checked the low side pressure with the engine off, the gauge reading was below 15. It made sense that the compressor wouldn't start at the pressure. I put in about a 1/2 can with the motor running A/C on max and it was showing 40, but still no compressor cycling. I then shut the motor down, let it sit for about 3 mins and restarted. This time, the compressor started to cycle, it was cycling quickly though, I'd say about every 3 seconds.
With the compressor cycling, the pressure would jump from 17 to 40. With the motor off, it would read 50. Still no cold air. I put in about 14oz of R134a.
I guess what I need to know is if I should I keep adding R134a until it stabilizes around 40, even when the compressor is cycling? Also, where should the static pressure be? It's sitting at 50 now. I've been told it should be around 80, but I'm thinking that might be dependent on outside temp.
BTW, I'm now thinking that the reason that I'm not getting cold air and the compressor keeps cycling is because I need to add a lot more R-134a. I think when the compressor starts and draws coolant, the low side pressure drops to low, causing the compressor to turn off. When the compressor cycles off, it sees the low side pressure at 40 and starts it up again causing the coolant draw and low side pressure to drop to low again. Am I right on this thought? It looks like I'll need to add another can to get the pressure to stay above 22 when the compressor is running.
One other thing... How much R-134a the system takes? I need to know because I have access to a vacuum.
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I have a 2000 F-150 4.3l and a/c compressor will not come on. I checked the pressure on both high and low side, low side is sitting at 90# and high side at 100#, with nothing engaging on clutch. I turn the fan to max a/c and fan to high and light comes on on dash for a/c, but I can't hear anything engaging on compressor and clutch looks like it is standing still while belt is rotating on engine. Had to check here to get fuse schematic and check fuses, but beyond that not sure what to do next.
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Well I've thrown out the situation of having low freon for discussion earlier and of course consensus is a leak. I added freon by way of one of those guage on the can deals and it seemed to be mostly ok for a while. Today it was around 90 degrees--doggy and I were on a road trip. What started off as a comfortable trip became progressively warmer. I noted the rear air was blowing warm air--not "not as cold air" like what you'd expect from the vents being in the ceiling. Got back home and hooked up my new manifold gauges I had ordered which of course, were in metric.
Long story short, I added some freon but while the low side pressure seems to be in the proper range, the high side pressure is very low, as in not much higher than the low side. The compressor comes on for approximately 1 second and goes off. Both sides have a pressure drop when it comes on-maybe the low side dips a hair below ideal but I am perplexed-or actually lacking knowledge. I know this is going to be a professional's issue for me, but what could be going on. I read a little on the expansion valve but I guess I am wondering if there is anyway to narrow down the problem--guess it comes from always trying to learn stuff.
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My AC stopped working, not sure when as we hadnt used it since last fall and I tried it once over the winter to keep it lubed up.
Tried so far:
Pressure switch on the evaporator - wont turn on the compressor. Had the truck running with AC running(warm air) jumped the connector with no result.
Air clutch spacing - currently at .032 is this too much? If I read it right, it should be .020? Would that cause it to not engage at all? What would my next step be to try?
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I just picked up a 97 F350 with a 460. When the air is turned on, the compressor cycles on and off. It only stays on for two, maybe three seconds, then is off for about fifteen seconds. I have one of those of those hokey gauges on the refill can, and it says the pressure jumps when the compressor comes on. Could it be going out on a hi head pressure kinda thing? Could the orifice be clogged? I'll have the freon pulled out, then can get into it....
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I have an 06 F350 diesel, I had some work done on it that required the body to be raised on it. After I got it back the A/C didn't blow cold. I put it off for a while since I didn't need it. Anyways, the clutch isn't engaging so the compressor doesn't spin.
Things I have checked: Compressor rotates smoothly by hand. No blown fuses or bad relays (checked them all with meter). No results when jumpering the Hi/low press switches. Tried charging the system and the gage I got with the can goes to 80# and it maxed out. For the air gap on the clutch/shim idea, I tried pushing in on the clutch while it was running with a long extension to see if I could get it to engage, no luck
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Got in one day fired it up and no air. Thought the freon was low (uses a can a year) come home put part of a can in compressor kick on and off like they do. Except this time it is blowing freon out somewhere under the intake like a poppet valve or something. Can't see where it is coming from it only does it for a split second and when the rpm's are up around 2500 or so. First thought was I have to much freon it. Vacuumed it out started all over and the same thing. What it could be is there a pressure relief valve under the intake some where?
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My van starts sometimes and runs fine but sometimes it won't start. Acts like not getting fuel. Once it does start it runs fine. Doesn't do it all the time but happening more frequently. The van will turn over but as soon as I let go of the gas pedal it just turns off. I have put a new battery and changed the fuel filter. I don't think it's the fuel pump cuz it runs good once it starts?
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I have a 1996 Ford Taurus. With the headlight in the OFF position and the ignition off, key OUT, the headlights stay on. All other lights are off. The highbeam indicator in the cluster stays on also. I've disconnected the headlight switch (completely removed from vehicle), and the headlights still stay ON! I know absolutely nothing about this car.
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i have a 1991 ford escort pony i w driving it fine all day then all a sudden i stopped to get water the car died when it did i tried to restart it , it bogged out and didnt start i waited a hr it started idled for 20 mins reved it up everything seemed ok but then i went to actually drive it i got 1/3 of a mile if that and it died on the side of the road with my lil daughter in the car and 104 degrees outside. me and my father thought it was a furl filter or pump but in the primer valvei t has plenty of fuel and pressure. what it could be?
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I'm having electronic issues with my windstar. Tail lights stay on after shutting off. All dome and interior lights stay on when ignition is on.key fob doesn't lock or unlock. Gas gauge reads empty. WHEN IT RAINS, IT ALL WORKS NORMAL. What can I do? Today, now, not starting. Turn key, not even a click. Theft light flashing. Got power and starter is good. is there a reset?
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Installed new egr valve and check engine light still won't stay off...
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