Ford A/C :: Compressor Kicked On Eventually And Cycled Off Really Quick
Jul 21, 2012
My r12/factory air conditioning was low so I charged it with some freeze 12 I was able to find then auto parts store. It was new old stock.
I don't have access to the high side port so I attempted to charge it with the low side gauge only.
The compressor kicked on eventually and cycled off really quick. As I put more in it would cycle on longer. I eventually had it cycling on for a fair amount of time and then off for a short time. At this point when the compressor was running I was showing about 25psi and static pressure rose to about 48 psi when the compressor cycled off. At about 48psi the compressor turned on again.
I put about 36 oz of refrigerant in (3 cans). Was this too much? The system had pressure albeit low but it had pressure. Did I not put enough in? If I overfilled it can I just "vent it". I know it's illegal to just vent it but for all intense and purposes is this doable?
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
The other day, I had the death triangle come up, it's done it 4 times since I have owned it, anyway got the triangle to go off, but now the AC works some of the time, and sometimes not, the lights are not blinking.
I put a new ac pump/compressor on about 3 yrs ago, been good till now, took it to a ac shop, evaced the stuff, put new in, same thing, he said the clutch/compressor was working good, cleaned out the filter, really dirty, was hoping that was the problem, worked good last nite, did probably 10 miles with it, but not really cold/cold air, I have not checked the belt yet, also, sometimes when I come up to a corner, it will like chug up to the stop, like maybe the compressor clutch is kicking in/out. This is the car we use a lot in the summer for the fact of leaving it idle while we are in the store, for our dogs, so it gets lots of use. Also, when the air buttons are on, motor (engine) will shut off the on, when its not blowing cold air.
View 10 Replies
My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2000 Chrysler town and country mini-van. the air conditioner in it was making a very bad rattling sound when it cycled on. This noise happened only with the compressor engaged. my mechanic replaced the compressor, accumulator and orifice. Still the same noise. I have also replaced the water pump,belt tensioner and idler pulley. still noisy can't figure out why..
View 8 Replies
1999 f150 4.2l v6.. The anti theft system has kicked in and my truck won't turn over, the stereo won't turn on, the lights don't work. How can I fix this?
View 6 Replies
Recently I was driving on the highway, about 70 miles into my trip, when all of a sudden my cruise control kicked out and the rpms went high and then I lost acceleration. I pulled over to the berm and tried to take off. Problem is I could not get the car past 30mph because the accelerator pedal could. not be pushed down more than an inch or two no matter how hard I pushed. What could be wrong???
View 1 Replies
On cruise control, engine went dead immediately after passing gear kicked in. After 2 days on the side of the road got a pull to the house. Then after having a charger on it over night the electric seems to be messed up. Switched on, the dash lights light full strength for a fraction of a second before appearing as thought the battery is real low. Also the doorlocks act crazy. I think maybe I blew out the BB on the high oil pressure pump.
View 6 Replies
So I've recently picked up a 2004 1.8t GTI. The check engine kicked in just weeks after purchasing and I had Autozone check the ecu for the code. As it turns out my CAT has gone and it's in need of replacing. I went to a shop for a second opinion and they confirmed the issue. Now to replace the stock CAT . Seems damn high even for a stock VW part.
I was looking into purchasing a performance cat at a lower price or just changing out the whole exhaust system from the turbo back. So my question is if I just change the CAT will I be able to stop on an aftermarket cat-back exhaust system, does it matter if its stock or not.
View 23 Replies
I was going up this huge hill today and had EV mode on and had 10 miles of EV. I noticed the EV kicked off and I assumed it was because of the hill. I kept the bar out of the power area. The car was warmed up already since EV was in prior to going up the hill
2 questions - Did the EV turn off because if the hill even though I didn't go into the power area? After the hill I went on a perfectly flat road and I could not get the EV to kick back in. I even went into the regen area and it still wouldn't. I toggled EV on off on and still nothing. It finally kicked in about five minutes later.
View 10 Replies
I have a 2004 RX 330 and the transmission kicked out of 3rd gear going around a turn. It felt like something gave way and broke. Now the transmission only works when the selector is in 1 or 2. It will not shift above 2nd gear reverse works fine. I have not experienced any transmission issues with this vehicle till now. The car has 215k miles so its higher mileage. The transmission doesn't make any strange noises while running in this limp mode. There was no check engine code flashed when the incident happened. I read a couple of message threads and saw some mention of limp home mode from the knock sensor. I think that this should have generated a dash code at least. I tried resetting the any codes that were generated with disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. This made the problem worse and the car will barely idle now. The resetting of the codes did not fix the shift issue.
View 5 Replies
First a little background on the car , it has 217,000 miles. The battery was just replaced with a used one. While taking it through the carwash, she put it in neutral and a minute or two later she got a warning that the battery was not charging and to put it in gear. Sounds like the battery is having issues to me. She has a 60-day warranty.
View 10 Replies
I recently started up a modest hill in the snow. My '05 Prius started to lose traction and the ABS/VSC kicked in and killed the drive power. The drive then came back on and then off several times before quitting completely. The surface was slick. If I could have disabled the system, I could have driven through the situation. Is it possible to turn the system off?
View 1 Replies
My 2005 Prius started showing all the symptoms of a dead/dying hv battery this morning. The dashboard lit up, the battery fan kicked on and my mpg dropped to 35mph. I was half way to work, so I just continued. I have been checking around and I can get it replaced for about $1000.00 reconditioned, but they have a 7-10 day waiting list. The dealership wants $3500.00 minimum, and says that I should not drive it at all and have it towed. Is this true? Can I drive on gas alone until I find a solution?
View 19 Replies
I am pretty new to Toyota Prius. Today I went to test drive a jap import 2nd Gen 1.5 Prius with 50k miles. What I found weird with the car was that, on the startup the petrol engine also started and it was on for the duration I was driving. I then turned on the EV mode and the petrol engine turned off but looking at the battery capacity on the screen, the battery drained pretty quickly possibly (2-3 minutes) and the petrol engine kicked in. Is this normal for 2nd gen prius cars ?
View 3 Replies
96 Ranger 2.3 5 speed, 2wd. 212k on the clock.
Bought this from my BIL last week. CEL was on so I ran the codes. replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAF (with CRC MAS cleaner), replaced the EGR solenoid (physically broken). The first code showed this was throwing the code. That code (p1409) went away but p0402 showed it's head. replaced the DPFE sensor, disconnected the battery for an hour and am now code free.
Now it idles like crap, up and down with A/C on or off to nearly dying and does eventually die. Disconnected the MAS and no change. Cleaned the AIC no change, replaced the AIC with no luck. Checked for any obvious vacuum leaks around items I messed with. Found nothing. With engine running I disconnected the vacuum to the EGR valve and idle smooths out. Feel a small vacuum tug from the hose, nothing at the valve.
Haven't changed the PCV or cleaned the throttle body. Could it be the EGR valve since removing the vacuum seemed to work?
Side note, BIL's mechanic told him THREE YEARS AGO the CEL was 'probably a O2 sensor' and that is doesn't do anything and no need to fix.
Still no codes and still no power. Can't hear any vacuum leaks. Bought new plugs and wires but haven't installed them yet. EGR? TPS?
View 14 Replies
My wife has an '03 Ford Expedition with 110k miles on it. It began dying while driving. Sometimes while moving. Other times when stopping or idling. She would describe that sometimes when it began acting like it was going to die she could "give it gas" and it would revive, other times that wouldn't work. It would usually restart after one or two tries. Our local mechanic did a tune up and replaced a coil. During the trip she began hearing a sound of "metal shredding" and the car died and wouldn't restart. She had it towed to a ford dealer. They replaced the IAC valve.
After that the dying would continue but instead of dying right away it would "lose acceleration, and eventually die within a few seconds" Took it to another ford dealership and they replaced the fuel pump and relay. It would work fine for a few weeks and then start dying again. Another local mechanic noted the error code P0231 "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" He kept it for a few weeks and was able to get it to die for him once but not again. The dying continued. Sometimes it would work great for weeks, other times it would die continually on the same trip. Took it to a 3rd dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.It dies in the cold and in the heat. Usually after driving at least 20 minutes into a trip. Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. Sometimes with a full tank of gas, sometimes with a low tank.
View 3 Replies
2004 later year 6.0 F-350. 155,000 miles. All stock.
It will start and run fine. Drove it for an hour then began running rough. Nursed it back home. When idling it eventually died. It will eventually fire up but runs really bad. It has done this a few times. I've done fuel filters and 911 fuel treatment because thought it was gelling. No luck...
It has injector circuit fault codes that pop up. Only other code is MAF sensor low but in range. First it was codes for cylinders 3,5. Then 3,5,8. Then 1,3,5,8. Now just injector 1. Keeps changing as I refresh. Battery power fine. FICM is 47.5- 48volts and in sync. ICP at idle is 600-700psi. IPR is 25%.
We had a problem with blowing turbo pipe off so may be overboosting. Not sure. No code thrown relating to that. Possible wire chafing? Maybe bad tank of fuel? Not sure where to turn at this point.
View 14 Replies
I have '03 6.0 when it gets to full temp it will run horrible and eventually stall. It will take a few long cranks to restart. will drive a little bit but will stall again. It will idle all day long even after a stall. IPR @hot idle is 22 and ICP @hot idle is 640. IPR and IPC readings seem to run good throughout the rpm range except for when it dies. Then the IPR is anywhere from 71 to 85. Has new ICP and Pigtail. Runs very good until hot. I am leaning towards HPOP.
View 14 Replies
One of my Aerostar pet peeves is to do with the sliding door alignment, or should I say slight misalignment.
Some of the alignment problems can be attributed to worn out nylon roller bearings. Make sure the roller guide ways are clean of any foreign debris. When you car wash your Aero, make sure to also clean the interior roller guide way (open the sliding door and thoroughly clean around the area where the bottom sliding door wheel travels).
After 20 years of usage, the sliding door will eventually drop down and back a few millimeters. Some of the symptoms associated with this will be a sporadic loss of electrical contact with those that are outfitted with electrical door locks. Also, the sliding door may also require some manual assistance at back edge to open the door. It can become somewhat frustrating, and perhaps a little embarrassing when parked beside a newer vehicle outfitted with automatic door opening/closing mechanisms.
I am not sure if the elevation of the sliding door can be adjusted at the rear or in the middle, but I do know that the horizontal position of the sliding door can be adjusted to a certain degree. The vertical position can be only adjusted by a very tiny amount.
1) Remove all of screws on the sliding door interior panel, and as well as the torx screw on the open/close barbaric door handle.
2) The bottom panel, other than the screws, has 2 plastic/nylon semi-resuble flat headed holder fittings.
3) Remove the two interior rubber grommets at the rear edge of the door. This will reveal 3 adjustment bolts.
4) Loosen the bolts, then push the door a bit forward while holding the middle hinge. Don't push too much! Just a little.
5) Re-tighten the middle handle bolts, and subsequently re-adjust the striker bolt. This is a PITA to align properly.
View 9 Replies
So the last couple times I got a car wash the truck started running real rough, sometimes dies, then runs fine after a few minutes. Well, the last car wash I got it did it again, but the issue didn't go away. I checked the injector plugs, cleaned and greased, no change. Validated the bowl is filling with fuel, changed fuel filter, no luck.
Sometimes it will start and idle fine, rev in neutral fine, if you come off throttle abruptly it will fall below normal idle and start stumbling with an SES light and eventually die.
I managed to get it idling good, started logging with TPro (attached) and it was throwing codes P0475 - Exhaust Pressure Control Valve, and P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, as well as P1211, p1249, p1316 listed as 'multiple descriptions'.
I'm assuming this is an electrical issue since it happened after washing the truck, just not sure what sensor would cause all this?
View 14 Replies
Proud new owner of a 2001 7.3....today. The previous owner installed Warn standard hubs. I assume they work same as OEM with the exception that I have to get out and lock them, right? Also, when I test drove it, and after locking them, I engaged to 4x4 button and the 4x4 engaged and worked. However, when I disengaged my AC went to defrost just like my old 7.3. The AC eventually came back. Is this normal? I think it also went to defrost when I engaged. The AC does come back after a couple minutes after disengaging.
View 14 Replies
