Ford A/C :: Compressor Kicked On Eventually And Cycled Off Really Quick


Jul 21, 2012

My r12/factory air conditioning was low so I charged it with some freeze 12 I was able to find then auto parts store. It was new old stock.

I don't have access to the high side port so I attempted to charge it with the low side gauge only.

The compressor kicked on eventually and cycled off really quick. As I put more in it would cycle on longer. I eventually had it cycling on for a fair amount of time and then off for a short time. At this point when the compressor was running I was showing about 25psi and static pressure rose to about 48 psi when the compressor cycled off. At about 48psi the compressor turned on again.

I put about 36 oz of refrigerant in (3 cans). Was this too much? The system had pressure albeit low but it had pressure. Did I not put enough in? If I overfilled it can I just "vent it". I know it's illegal to just vent it but for all intense and purposes is this doable?

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Prius (Gen 1) :: No AC In Summer / Compressor Clutch Kicked In

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I put a new ac pump/compressor on about 3 yrs ago, been good till now, took it to a ac shop, evaced the stuff, put new in, same thing, he said the clutch/compressor was working good, cleaned out the filter, really dirty, was hoping that was the problem, worked good last nite, did probably 10 miles with it, but not really cold/cold air, I have not checked the belt yet, also, sometimes when I come up to a corner, it will like chug up to the stop, like maybe the compressor clutch is kicking in/out. This is the car we use a lot in the summer for the fact of leaving it idle while we are in the store, for our dogs, so it gets lots of use. Also, when the air buttons are on, motor (engine) will shut off the on, when its not blowing cold air.

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This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.

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I was looking into purchasing a performance cat at a lower price or just changing out the whole exhaust system from the turbo back. So my question is if I just change the CAT will I be able to stop on an aftermarket cat-back exhaust system, does it matter if its stock or not.

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2 questions - Did the EV turn off because if the hill even though I didn't go into the power area? After the hill I went on a perfectly flat road and I could not get the EV to kick back in. I even went into the regen area and it still wouldn't. I toggled EV on off on and still nothing. It finally kicked in about five minutes later.

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96 Ranger 2.3 5 speed, 2wd. 212k on the clock.

Bought this from my BIL last week. CEL was on so I ran the codes. replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAF (with CRC MAS cleaner), replaced the EGR solenoid (physically broken). The first code showed this was throwing the code. That code (p1409) went away but p0402 showed it's head. replaced the DPFE sensor, disconnected the battery for an hour and am now code free.

Now it idles like crap, up and down with A/C on or off to nearly dying and does eventually die. Disconnected the MAS and no change. Cleaned the AIC no change, replaced the AIC with no luck. Checked for any obvious vacuum leaks around items I messed with. Found nothing. With engine running I disconnected the vacuum to the EGR valve and idle smooths out. Feel a small vacuum tug from the hose, nothing at the valve.

Haven't changed the PCV or cleaned the throttle body. Could it be the EGR valve since removing the vacuum seemed to work?

Side note, BIL's mechanic told him THREE YEARS AGO the CEL was 'probably a O2 sensor' and that is doesn't do anything and no need to fix.

Still no codes and still no power. Can't hear any vacuum leaks. Bought new plugs and wires but haven't installed them yet. EGR? TPS?

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After that the dying would continue but instead of dying right away it would "lose acceleration, and eventually die within a few seconds" Took it to another ford dealership and they replaced the fuel pump and relay. It would work fine for a few weeks and then start dying again. Another local mechanic noted the error code P0231 "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" He kept it for a few weeks and was able to get it to die for him once but not again. The dying continued. Sometimes it would work great for weeks, other times it would die continually on the same trip. Took it to a 3rd dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.It dies in the cold and in the heat. Usually after driving at least 20 minutes into a trip. Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. Sometimes with a full tank of gas, sometimes with a low tank.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F350 Will Run Great Then Eventually Die

2004 later year 6.0 F-350. 155,000 miles. All stock.

It will start and run fine. Drove it for an hour then began running rough. Nursed it back home. When idling it eventually died. It will eventually fire up but runs really bad. It has done this a few times. I've done fuel filters and 911 fuel treatment because thought it was gelling. No luck...

It has injector circuit fault codes that pop up. Only other code is MAF sensor low but in range. First it was codes for cylinders 3,5. Then 3,5,8. Then 1,3,5,8. Now just injector 1. Keeps changing as I refresh. Battery power fine. FICM is 47.5- 48volts and in sync. ICP at idle is 600-700psi. IPR is 25%.

We had a problem with blowing turbo pipe off so may be overboosting. Not sure. No code thrown relating to that. Possible wire chafing? Maybe bad tank of fuel? Not sure where to turn at this point.

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Some of the alignment problems can be attributed to worn out nylon roller bearings. Make sure the roller guide ways are clean of any foreign debris. When you car wash your Aero, make sure to also clean the interior roller guide way (open the sliding door and thoroughly clean around the area where the bottom sliding door wheel travels).

After 20 years of usage, the sliding door will eventually drop down and back a few millimeters. Some of the symptoms associated with this will be a sporadic loss of electrical contact with those that are outfitted with electrical door locks. Also, the sliding door may also require some manual assistance at back edge to open the door. It can become somewhat frustrating, and perhaps a little embarrassing when parked beside a newer vehicle outfitted with automatic door opening/closing mechanisms.

I am not sure if the elevation of the sliding door can be adjusted at the rear or in the middle, but I do know that the horizontal position of the sliding door can be adjusted to a certain degree. The vertical position can be only adjusted by a very tiny amount.

1) Remove all of screws on the sliding door interior panel, and as well as the torx screw on the open/close barbaric door handle.
2) The bottom panel, other than the screws, has 2 plastic/nylon semi-resuble flat headed holder fittings.
3) Remove the two interior rubber grommets at the rear edge of the door. This will reveal 3 adjustment bolts.
4) Loosen the bolts, then push the door a bit forward while holding the middle hinge. Don't push too much! Just a little.
5) Re-tighten the middle handle bolts, and subsequently re-adjust the striker bolt. This is a PITA to align properly.

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So the last couple times I got a car wash the truck started running real rough, sometimes dies, then runs fine after a few minutes. Well, the last car wash I got it did it again, but the issue didn't go away. I checked the injector plugs, cleaned and greased, no change. Validated the bowl is filling with fuel, changed fuel filter, no luck.

Sometimes it will start and idle fine, rev in neutral fine, if you come off throttle abruptly it will fall below normal idle and start stumbling with an SES light and eventually die.

I managed to get it idling good, started logging with TPro (attached) and it was throwing codes P0475 - Exhaust Pressure Control Valve, and P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, as well as P1211, p1249, p1316 listed as 'multiple descriptions'.

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