I have a 1999 F250SD with V10 and the compressor recycles about every 4 to 5 seconds and doesn't cool very much. I checked the 134a level and according to my gauge it has sufficient level. What could be my problem.
View 4 RepliesI have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
View 1 RepliesIn my 08 Expedition I notice the a/c compressor cycles on for 18-25 sec. then off for about the same. This is with an ambient temp of about 75f. A/C seems to be blowing cool air-never was really cold since new. The idle drops/surges a bit when the a/c kicks on also-which is what grabbed my attention. Is this a normal or is it short cycling?
View 1 RepliesLooking to get the A/C working on my '78 F150 with integral (factory) A/C system. It is complete, but it seems to be blowing warm air as opposed to cold.
When I turn on the A/C, the compressor engages and the blower switches to the dashboard vents. I waited for a minute or two, but no cool air.
The sight glass has a silver line running through it. I assumed this was full? It would be black if it was low/empty.
The A/C is not working in my 2002 S-10. Currently the compressor runs, but the air is not getting cool. I tried adding freon, but it has not worked. The low side pressure is about 50 psi, and would drop a few pounds when the compressor is started, but it drops no further. I have not noticed the compressor cycling while it is on. The can of refrigerant is not empty, but the system does not seem to be taking any more from that can.
Do I just need to add some more coolant from a fresh can, or is something else at work here. Also, probably unrelated, when down shifting it is fairly common for the air to switch from blowing up front to blowing on the defrost.
I'm trying to bring fresh air at ambient temperature into the cab, but even on Econ and Lo, incoming air is a good 20 degrees F warmer than outside, even after 20 minutes or so giving the system time to cool off. The dealer says this is normal. Is there no way to get cool outside air in through the ventilation system without turning on the compressor?
View 15 RepliesWhen ever the car stops at a traffic light or stop sign, the air compressor cycles rapidly and the cool air turns warm. I was told the cooling fan was not coming on, but the other day the fan was cycling and the cool air stayed cool. My question is what controls the cooling fan operation? It seems the high pressure switch is working correctly and the fan motor is working. As long as I'm driving the air is cool.
View 2 RepliesThe AC compressor on my 97 Quest cycles off and on way too fast when my defroster's on. I know the AC is supposed to dehumidify the incoming air - but it shouldn't be this rapid. Is there a way to control this or shut off the AC when the defroster's on ? 97 Nissan Quest..
View 2 RepliesMy roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
View 7 Replies2004 Foed Freestar, the A/C has started blowing less than cool air in the past sveveral days. I'm assuming its low on refrg. but how does one check by visual inspection? If it is low will a simple re-charge kit w/guage and super dupper leak sealant do the trick? I saw a kit at Advance Autoparts for manufactured by Interdynamics. It had a guage w/trigger release for can content and three 12oz. cans of R134a. Will this kind of kit work?
View 6 RepliesWhen I get up in the mornings and make my 10 mile commute to work my AC is icebox cold, I could hang meat in there. But after a long long day (about 9 - 10 hours) when I get back in my 96 Explorer to head out -- driving about 30 miles -- the AC never gets cool. It feels like it's just a vent siphoning in the hot air from the outside. This has been going on for about the past week. What could be causing this issue?
View 13 RepliesWhen moving, I receive mildly cool air, when sitting still (traffic or lights) the A/C becomes warm. The air doesn't change outlets, velocity is the same. Other than checking pressure, what other possibilities... I am going to have it serviced.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1993 Ford F-250 super cab w/ 7.5 ltr engine 2wd. On a downhill at freeway speeds, foot off the gas, the A/C cuts out. When I step on the gas pedal again the cool air returns. The EEC IV has an output on pin 10 that can shut off the clutch, but I don't know what inputs it uses to make that decision. I know about the WOT condition, but this is the opposite of wide open throttle.
View 14 RepliesAs the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition. We noticed a few weeks ago that the A/C was not cooling like it used to, and now it does not cool at all. No cold air from either the front vents or the rear system.
Tonight it is 65 degrees ambient and the clutch is cycling about every 8 seconds. Every time it cycles I hear a hissing/rushing water sound under the passenger-side dashboard.
Is there's anything that I can check myself, or if I need to take it to a mechanic. I can do basic part replacement but am not qualified enough to take apart a charged system.
AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
My 94 is on the mend , since I got it a few months ago. The air conditioner blows cool , just not cold . It's still a R12 system, and I got the fittings/R134a/oil charge/and mineral spirits to do the change over, but hesitated when I found someone locally had a few cans of R12 for sale . My thought is to buy 1 can , and see if a shot would make the difference before going through the procedure to flush the 12 out and go with the 134a .
My biggest problem is lack of a gauge set , but a guy from CraigsList here says he walk me through the change over for 60 , and betting he'd have the hoses for a 12 system to hit that if that's how I decide to try first. I just wonder why , since I got it , the "cool" it does blow hasn't changed so I am betting it isn't leaking , but the jackleg I got it from was one that IMHO wouldn't know how to open the hood , or what to leave alone, I am just at that point of impasse, as to which way to go ...
I took my truck to a friends express lube to have some freon added to it. My truck has been blowing cool air, not cold. So i thought it might be low on freon considering its a 2000 f-150 w/ 145,000 miles. He took a pressure gauge to it and said it is over charged, the pressure was high.
View 13 RepliesI just got this 2006 F250 with a 6.0 diesel in January. Didn't check the AC until now. It doesn't work, not even cool air. I borrowed a gauge set. The static pressure in the system was 95 psi (77 F outside). I started the truck 1500 RPM with AC Max blower high, windows down. When the AC pump would run it would draw the low side down below about 20 and the high side pressure would go to about 150 before the pump would kick out (about 1 second pumping). It looked like it was low on refrigerant. Easy fix, WRONG.
I started adding a can of 134a (12 oz)with dye, to the system. The can got cold, and was going into the system, but the low side readings weren't going anywhere, the pump was still cutting off on low pressure. Still about a 1 second pump run time. The high side pressure were going up fast. After the can was in the high side pressure was going up to about 450. The low side would creep upto about 65 and when the pump would kick in it would draw it way down to maybe 30. Still very short pump times. I don't think the air ever came out of the vents even cool.
I got cold feet about the high side pressure and lowered the charge on the system. The new static pressure is 115.
Did I overcharge the system too fast? Does the system have to run for a while after a charge for the high side pressure to drop? It seems to me like there is a blockage causing the low side to be too low and the high side to be too high. Will air in the system cause this? What next?
I just changed my 77 truck over to a Serpentine belt set up and used parts from a 90 F150. I didn't flush the system, but I did replace the drier and added oil the way that was suggested in another thread (by measuring what came out of the York). I pulled a vacuum for 40 minutes then let it sit for 30 minutes and it held just fine, so I went ahead and started charging the system. My pressures seem to be right with the low side about 50 and high side 175 with it about 85^ outside.
The air isn't blowing very cold, it's more cool, and the low side fitting doesn't feel cool to the touch the way it did when I had the York compressor on there. So I'm confused and wondering if the compressor I took off the 90 is bad. One thing I noticed is when I shut the truck off was that the pressures equalized almost instantly, when the York was on there it took it a while for the pressures to equalize. Is this a clue that the compressor is bad or is that how newer one's work?
I took the dive into a new heater core, as the heater was not getting hot. These are the things I did while on my adventure.
1. Before reinstalling the hoses, I blew thru them to make sure of no clogs...water flew out the other hose..no problem..no clog.
2. inspected mix door not cracked or broken...no problem
3.actuator opens and closes ok, I assume, I can hear the motor run and the door thump closed...no problem
4. water and anti freeze level good....no problem
Start vehicle,let warm up, turn on heat.....No Heat...
5. check hoses at core, one is hot ,the other is not....Problem...
1997 f150 4x4 ...