The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
View 4 RepliesI have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
View 3 RepliesJust noticed yesterday that the compressor clutch does not disengage while the air conditioner is on. It is 2005 V6 Sonata Elite. All the other cars I have ever owned had compressor clutches that cycle. Internet searches indicate that there might be air conditioners with only a low-pressure switch.
View 2 RepliesPretty sure the a/c clutch on my LT1 is going - making lots of noise when working and also when not.
I've heard on some forums that this could be a bearing? Is it advisable for me to replace the entire clutch or just this bearing?
Either way, I assume I'll have to pull the clutch for which I think I'll need two special tools:
(1) clutch holder tool to break nut loose.
(2) pulley puller.
I think this is just poor dealer service, but I need a sanity check.
I have 93k miles on my Corolla. My clutch creaks like an old school bus when I engage and disengage. It's done this pretty much all along and I think I had another dealer successfully lube the linkage to quiet it down -- it was miles and years ago so I may be misremembering that.
My current dealer says all they can do for it now is REPLACE THE WHOLE FREAKING CLUTCH assembly to the tune of $1,300. Clearly, I'm not doing this. As long as it works, I ain't replacin' the clutch, but, REALLY?
I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
View 5 RepliesSays A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
I have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
View 12 RepliesMy daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
View 3 Repliesif the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
View 3 RepliesI got a 2003 GTI 1.8t and the AC air is blowing warm. With the car on, AC on and fans full blast both rad fans turn on but compressor clutch does not engage. Took it to a shop and the mechanic said the system was full of refrigerant but that the compressor was not getting the proper signal and there was an electrical problem.
I check the power at the compressor and it is reading about 7 volts, which is low correct? That should be getting 12-13 volts correct? I also check the pressure switch over by the passenger side and it was getting 13v. What to check next to start ruling out causes? Any quick way to determine whether this is electrical or a compressor issue? I am limited in my abilities as far as electrical work goes.
I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
View 2 RepliesI have a '03 V6 3.5 Santa Fe. The clutch on the AC compressor went out and was making a loud racket. When I was pulling the compressor off I noticed the wire harness connection to the compressor was damaged. Either by me or previous change.
So the end of the harness on the car side is damaged. Can a new one be purchased and spliced? I cannot see where it goes to see if it can be replaced.
I found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
View 4 RepliesMy clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
View 8 RepliesI recently bought a 1997 f150 4x4 with shift on the fly. I bought the truck from an old man who parked it outside his house. I love the truck, but the 4x4 has been finiky. I have done a ton of research and i have done a bunch of testing. The vacuum system is working correctly. I have tested the solenoids and the front axle actuator is working properly.
There is some kind of electrical issue. It might be the GEM (i really hope not), but it might be the shift on fly switch itself.
The 4x4 will engage, but when i turn the switch to 2h nothing seems to happen. Driving in reverse doesn't work. But sometimes it switch from 4h to 2h, just by turning the truck off and restarting it. If restarting doesn't work, then i have to pull the 5 fuse, let it sit, then put it back in. I read that this resets the GEM. (Number 5 fuse, middle row, 5th from the top).
Resetting the GEM usually does it, but not all the time. Sometimes it will still be in 4x4 again after resetting the gem. And then what is really weird, after driving it in 2h (after the gem reset) then turned it off and restarting it, it will go back into 4x4. All this happens with the switch set to 2h. So I have been having to reset the GEM, each time i restart it. (This was going on for a day or so.)
Any easy testing i can do? Do you think it could be the switch on the dash, or more likely to be the gem? I hope it isn't the gem. I don't want to have to pull a fuse each time to drive my truck.
AC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
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