Ford A/C :: Compressor Failing - Clutch Doesn't Want To Spin Freely
Jun 7, 2013
On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
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I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
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I have a 99 f250 7.3 4x4. The problem is in 2wd I can spin the front drive shaft freely and the driver side axle will turn but not passenger side. I've pulled both hubs off and both are in auto position and spin freely. Even with the hub off on the pass side the axle won't spin freely.
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I've been noticing bad gas mileage over the last few months. I changed the spark plus, that didn't work. then I noticed the prob when I was checking my mail one day, on a slight incline and the car didn't roll back. so I took it home and checked each tire to see if it spun freely, and the two front ones do not, the drivers side being the worst. I don't here any noises coming from either tires, and have actually replaced front right wheel bearing last year.
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I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
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Noticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
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OK, so the front end of the car is on jack stands. The rear is planted on the ground. The car is in park.
Yet, I'm able to spin the front wheels with my hand.
Wouldn't putting it in park lock the wheels via the transmission?
The car is a FWD 2007 Corolla....
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I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
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My car is pulling to one right slightly so I did the alignment. But it didnt eliminate the problem. Ｉ jacked up my car and try to rotate the front wheel. I can hear slight noise of the caliper rubbing the disk and the wheel does not spin freely if I stopped rotating it. However, the noise is subtle so I don't know if it is by design or I have a brake drag.
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Ok so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
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06 f150 4x4 when locked in 4 hi or low front doesn't spin and there is a clanking..... not sure what to check first.... u joints look OK....
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I have a 2006 2.4l Santa Fe, has been diagnosed with failing ac compressor. Quoted exorbitant amount of money to replace. As far as I know, this vehicle was available without the ac option, and at this point I don't car if I have it or not, looking for the cheapest fix. Can I bypass with a shorter belt? Does it need to be removed completely, and if so, can it be done without affecting anything else?
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How can I determine if my compressor is bad or is the solinoid/clutch bad. Truck had sat for about 9 months-1yr. A/C hadn't been operated for an additional 5-6 months. It worked like a freezer before I parked the truck. When i started the truck back up and tried the a/c the clutch would try to spin but very intermittently, now not at all. What direction should I go?
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I have a 2002 Camry with an A/C problem. When I turn on the A/C, the A/C light flashes and the compressor does not spin. I have check the following:
1. The compressor is fully functional when I feed power to it.
2. The A/C fuse, 10A, is functional.
3. The Mag CLT relay is functional.
4. The cabin filter is new.
5. There is enough refrigerant.
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A few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
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My starter motor in my 2004 Golf 2.0 doesn't engage or spin when it is very cold. By very cold, I mean below 5F.
The battery has plenty of juice, and jumping the battery doesn't work. I turn the key to "start" and nothing happens. When key is in the on position, fans, wipers, etc all work fine. When the car warms up to 20F or so, everything is fine and the car starts.
Here's the funny thing. If I put a little space heater on the driver side floor to warm up the fuse and relay panel, it starts with no issue.
I don't know enough about the interlocks between load reduction, starter motor, ignition switch etc to make a good guess as to which relay (if any) may stick in extreme cold. It's a tough problem to diagnose, because I can only experiment when it gets REALLY cold, when it isn't very fun to experiment anyway. I don't think it's the piggy back harness, because the wipers, horn and fan all work.
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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I have a stage 1+ tune, fuel pump, and intake. I ran into some clutch slippage and I decided to purchase an aftermarket clutch that was designed to mate with the OEM dual mass flywheel. I went this route because I had a single mass on my GTI and it was loud. I figured this would be a good solution to avoid the noise and be able to hold the added torque.
I broke it in as the instructions stated. After break in I gave it some throttle and I notice that there is severe slipping occurring. I have the clutch and flywheel pulled back out and sent back to the clutch manufacturer (they requested to see the flywheel despite it being the OEM one). The manufacturer states that the clutch is fine but the OEM flywheel is failing. They refurbish the clutch and ship it back to me with the flywheel. I take the flywheel to the dealer and explain that I suspect the flywheel is failing and divulge that I have some light modifications. The dealer shows me paperwork that they had behind the counter that says that any transmission issues on cars A, B, C, and D require an immediate contact to their VW rep and an opening of some type of file on the failure (forget what they called it). What's on the top of the list? The Golf R of course. They go on to tell me that they need the car to start this process and they will do nothing with the removed flywheel that I brought to them.
So at this point, my car is in pieces at the shop that I use and I've been without it for going on a month. I will also, obviously, end up having to pay double the labor for the install. I am also going to be out some more money to come up with a viable solution as I still don't have a functional flywheel. So what do I do?
I could purchase another OEM flywheel for about $800. My concern here is the OEM flywheel busting up again and being in exactly the same spot that I am in now. I could purchase a new aftermarket clutch and flywheel combo and scrap the hope of avoiding the noise and sell the refurbished clutch I have to try to recoup some of the losses. Not sure what other options I have, if any.
Needless to say, I am feeling pretty unhappy about this whole thing. I've landed in a place where I am going to end up shelling out twice as much cash as I should have to get a clutch in my car. Burning a couple of grand to get absolutely no benefit stings more than a little.
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I just got my 2003 passat 1.8T 5 speed. i noticed that every time i come up to 1500 to 3000 rmp in 3rd gear the clutch or what ever that is hesitates to spin. I am wondering what could it be? and the other day when i was driving in the freeway i noticed that when ever i get to 78-80mph i feel or the car starts to vibrate. does my car needs alignment?
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2009 F-150 XLT Super Crew 5.4 engine. The compressor cycles, but too often to get the interior cold. It has always been like this. While still in warranty Ford said it is fine. A good mechanic hooked it up to his machines and it seemed there is a sensor that said discharge temperature was below zero. Not even close. If there is one, where is this sensor? Is there a way to bypass this proble?
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So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
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