I have a 94 f150 and the a/c takes around 2 or 3 minutes to start coming cold and also took noticed that the compressor clutch goes off and on several times before coming cold. I also noticed that the high and low side a/c ports were bubbling liquid when i unscrewed the cap. Looking for an online site that sells a/c hoses and accumulator for this truck.....
View 2 RepliesHere's what I have. 02 X 7.3L 4x4.
Heater will work fine. Then out of nowhere just blow cold. I can turn it off then back on it'll blow hot for 1 minute or 20 minutes. Then out of nowhere blow cold again. It doesn't matter if I'm highway driving or city driving.
I'm kinda thinking it may be the door in the duct that's just closing. I real don't know.
I have a 95 Saturn s-series with trouble starting when cold. Sometimes it take 5-10 minutes to get it started. When it does start it is all you can do to keep it running. I have had it to 2 different repair shops spending way too much to not have the problem fixed.
View 30 RepliesMy A/C will blow cold for about 3 min. and then stop for 10 min......then cold again for 3 min.....then warm for 10 min.......what is going on ? It does this when on climate control and on A/C . I had a compressor go out about 1 1/2 yrs. ago due to a fan failing...the compressor tore apart... This is not acting like that though .
View 9 RepliesMy ranger 2.9 automatic 2WD has an high idle when started for about 6 min, engine can be hot or cold, still get the high idle, then it will drop to around 900-1000. I've changed the Idle control twice, checked EGR function. Replace temp sensor. Disconnected battery for 15 min. No code output.
View 7 RepliesI have an '03 F350 6.0 that occasionally wouldn't start until it had cooled off for about 30 minutes. A friend of mine recommended adding a little marvel mystery oil to the oil system, I did research this and found no negative posts, but now it has been 2 hours and it still won't start. Could i have added too much and thinned the oil out too much?
View 7 RepliesAC blows cold for about 10 minutes and then blows hot?
View 2 RepliesHere's the situation....It blows cold for about 5 mins, then the air starts to warm and stays warm. I just bought the truck 06 350 crew cab and they supposedly charged the system. I'm wondering if it has a leak but it should start out blowing warm air? I just wanted some thoughts before I start throwing money at it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1985 Ford Escort which I have to keep parked outdoors at the bottom of a very steep mile and a half long hill. It's right next to a river and very damp and cold and I only use the car once a week, very early on a Saturday morning. It takes at least five minutes of cranking to get it started with full choke. I then have to pull away up this 1 in 4 gradient hill with four of us in the car. About half a mile up the hill there's a junction and if I have to stop at this the car will often stall and be very difficult to restart. If I keep the choke out it will crank and crank and crank. If I push it in it will fire after a few tries but won't stay running. Having problems on really steep hills with cold engines and a manual choke?
View 1 RepliesI have a '12 Focus and for no apparent reason the A/C will turn off and warm air enters the car for 1-3 minutes and then returns to normal cold A/C air. It doesn't matter if it's on "max A/C" which will circulate the air inside the car or just the coldest setting on the A/C, high fan, low fan, it just happens. What usually happens is that I'm driving 40 or 45, then have to slow down (stoplight, etc.) and speed up again, during the slow down is when the A/C turns off and warm air enters the car. As soon as I'm driving 45 again for a minute it usually kicks back to cold air. OR, while driving on the freeway at 60 - 70mph after about 15-20 minutes it all of a sudden stops cooling and I get warm air in the car. It's been checked by 2 different dealers already 4 times and they never found anything wrong with the A/C System. It did have an actual leak a few weeks ago and that got repaired but it still has this mysterious behavior.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Saturn SL 1 and it takes about 20 minutes to get started and it started after the radiator was changed and I am losing coolant and I noticed a leak around the flex on the exhaust pipe could this be the starting problem?
View 2 RepliesWhen I fire her up, the AC will blow cold for 10ish minutes until everything is up to normal operating temperature. Then it tends to blow warm, and that last for about 20 minutes, before finally settling back down and being cold AC again. I initially thought it was an issue with my compressor disengaging, but it doesn't seem to be...
View 3 RepliesNeed this software that would be willing to run a diagnostic on my truck? I replaced all the glow plugs a year ago and the relay a month ago. It idles really rough when it's cold (first start of the day with outside temps even at 90 degrees). It has no power for about 10 minutes. Sounds like an old John Deere 2 cylinder tractor for a few minutes. I have 370K miles on it. After it warms up it runs good. Plugging it in doesn't make a difference. There is no smoke while it is warming up. I have noticed when I accelerate quickly, it blows black smoke (not heavy but when following it you see and smell it).
View 4 RepliesOk so I started car ran for about 15 min at idle but ran rough a few times then died now wont start. O yea I drove it on sunday and the speedometer and odometer stopped working also.
View 2 RepliesI am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES, with about 120,000 miles. On February 14th, Valentine's Day, my car broke down and has not functioned since then. Here's what happened, I was driving the car when it started to shake. It continued to shake for about 5 minutes, then it stalled. I was able to start he car again and it began shaking worse than before. Then it stalled again and it has not run since then.
The mechanic I've been working with has tried a new CAM sensor, replaced the computer and checked some of the electrical wiring. But nothing has worked. It's been almost 4 months and I am eager to get my car functioning properly right again.
As I'm driving along, I get the battery light coming for a few minutes then going out. Is this a sign my alternator is on the fritz?
View 7 RepliesOn my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
View 2 RepliesSo I've had my car for just a little over 3 years and it has 28,000 miles on it. I always use Shell gas and fill it up before it goes under the quarter tank mark every time. I take very good care of it, and I've loved it. I constantly get upper 30 mpg in city driving and mid to upper 40s on highway.
Recently, I have had an issue where for the past week. One morning, it started rough and got bad mpg for a few mins until the engine "burped" (best way I can describe it). Then it was fine.
I felt this same surge or "burp" 2 times after that. It doesn't speed up or anything, the RPMs drop for a second and come back up as if something is pulling power away. I still get amazing gas milage (39.2mpg and I filled up 2 days ago). It just surges. I don't understand. I take very good care of it! I looked online and apparently its an issue that some others are having. What could it be?
My '07 started making three very quite beeps while driving, happens about every 15 minutes. It sounds like it might be coming from under the passenger seat. Mileage on vehicle 168000.
View 1 RepliesI've got a merc C230 Kompressor that has 174k miles on it. The car typically runs really well and is not underpowered or anything. Last weekend I took a road trip that was 400 miles or so. The car did fine for the first 300 miles but then began running rough and was underpowered. Was acting like there was a fouled plug. I pulled over and stopped the car where it sat for about 5 mins. When I restarted the car, it was back to normal, with a smooth idle and not underpowered. It ran fine for about 30 mins and then began running rough and underpowered. I find that when it starts running rough, if I stop the car and turn it all the way off for at least 60 seconds, then when i turn it back on it will operate normally again for a bit. This also only seems to be happening when its really hot weather, 90 degrees F or higher.
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