Ford A/C :: Cold Air Only On Max Settings Otherwise Blowing Hot
Oct 4, 2016
Suddenly yesterday, my AC was blowing hot air on every setting except for Max AC. When on Max AC, then heater control valve closes but with just AC, it opens back up. for floor, defrost, etc. seems to work just fine, but it blows engine hot air at those places except for Max AC.
It seems as though the temperature control is stuck in hot or quit working all together, AND (I'm guessing here) that Max AC overrides the temperature control? That's the only thing that make sense to me.
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99 f250 4x4 7.3 superduty has no heat. A/c seems to work ok had similar problem last year and replaced heat control switch in dash. Same thing this year, a/c works fine but no heat when turned to red or heat setting. Blower works fine just blows cold air. What may be sticking? Getting cold in MD and (excuse me but) Johnson goes full turtle on my morning ride to work.
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My 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
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Drove about 30 minutes to a wedding yesterday and A/C was working perfectly. Truck sat about 4 hours and was cool out when I started it to make the 30 minute drive back so I cranked the heat wide open until the cab warmed slightly.
Once it warmed a little I turned the setting back towards the cooler setting but the air just kept getting hotter. The only way I could stop the air from blowing out hot like it was set on max heat was to set the control on max a/c, all other settings blow max heat!
Oh, by the way, my truck is a 2006 F-350 XLT diesel CC 4x4 auto with the FX4 package
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Is it true that on auto setting there is no air blowing out of the center vents? It happened to me this morning with my 2016 GTI.
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History: A few months back I had a leak repaired in my cooling system. I noticed the other night that my radiator was nearly empty again, so I've filled it back up, but haven't fixed it yet.
As summer is over, I no longer need my AC. However that caused me to notice that at its coolest setting, the vents are blowing warm air (maybe 15ยบ warmer than outside) and that seems high to me.
My immediate thought is that the heater control valve may be leaking/damaged/corroded.
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When I test drove a Sonata Eco last week, I noticed that the AC only pumped out cold air when it was on the "Max AC" setting. As soon as I moved the knob up a bit - still well in the blue territory, mind you - warmish air started coming from the vents. Basically felt like just the fan was on. Power-wise, it was set to "2".
Is this something that's common among Sonatas, or Eco's in particular? Or is this possibly just a result of the car sitting on the lot for a while, and maybe the AC needs a recharge? Living in Florida, good AC is obviously an absolute requirement, and I shouldn't need to keep it on Max all the time just to ensure cold air.
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At 60k mi. A/c works fine then next day won't blow cold on usual settings. Then works fine again for months and probably over a year. Now at 72K mi same problem. Is this a switch or something since I am not hearing the a/c clutch engage? Hopefully tomorrow it works as it starts up again after a day or two. What could be going bad or is loose?
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I have no heat in the LS at no settings. The AC runs good but does not seem to be regulated as it blows cold at any temp setting. The fan responds to settings but i still get no heat even with the AC turned off. I would like to find a diagram that shows the locations of the bleed valves to start a coolant air bleed.
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My 2007 Lexus ES350 with 81,000 miles on it has a very low frequency squeak when the heater is first cold or on low. When I turn up the fan above the lowest setting the squeak will go away. I checked my cabin air filter but it appears to be clean & newly replaced.
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I have a 2011 Avalon Limited and live in the Dallas area. Are used the auto setting on my thermostat all the time. I noticed that in cold weather, the AC almost always switches on as part of the thermostat function. I don't understand that. For example, its 30 degrees outside, & I select Auto and set the temperature to 70 degrees, and the green AC light goes on. I want to avoid using more gas than I need to use, so I'm wondering why this might be so. It's a simple matter to simply press the AC and turn it off, but I'm wondering why it goes on in the first place.
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Over the past few days my A/C has gotten progressively warmer to the point it's not blowing cold at all. Early summer I checked the low side pressure and it was at around 30 while running. I added a can to bring it up to 35-40. Blew ice cold air all summer. Now when I check the low side pressure it's around 40 when off. When I run it, the compressor short cycles. When the compressor kicks on, the pressure drops real low (LOW on my guage). When the compressor kicks off, the pressure goes up to about 55-60 then drops back down low for the 2 or 3 seconds until it kicks off. Thought I might have a leak but after seeing the system pressurized like this, i don't think so.
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Heater is blowing cold air. What I have checked, coolant level, replaced water pump and thermostat, checked blend door, flushed heater core. When I checked the blend door via the heater treator method I was getting hot air coming off the core but also getting very cold air coming from the A/C evap in side the plenom box. I also pulled the fuse for the A/C clutch and I am still getting cold air. I am look at replacing the HVAC contol.
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I'm having the same issue as many others with the heat blowing cold air. I have read through the other post ad tried the blend door, actutator, vaccine lines, control ***, and both lines going in and out are hot to touch when warmed up. I am now lost!
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My 06 F250 crew with the 6.0 starting blowing the cold AC out the defrost vent and will not switch to the dash vents. It's goning to hit 108 today and stay around 105 for the rest of the week.
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I have a 2003 f250 SD 5.4L 2wd. Yesterday I get in and start it up .. no hot air just blows cold. What to check
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Last summer, the A/C on our 2012 Ford Escape stopped blowing cold air. We took it to our mechanic (who I trust). They checked for leaks but found none. They did an evacuation and recharge of the system. Cold air started blowing again! Then 2-3 weeks later, my wife says she saw a puff of smoke come out of the vents (not sure if it was smoke or vapor or what). The A/C stopped blowing cold air shortly after that. We took it back to the mechanic. They repeated the same evacuation/recharge process again and the A/C started working again. 2-3 weeks later, we saw the same puff and then no cold air.
That happened last Fall, so we waited until this spring to try again. Just took it back to mechanic. They checked the levels and the pressure was good before they did anything else. No leaks. They did the evacuation/recharge and the air is now blowing cold again. But, I have no reason to think it will last.
It seems pretty predictable that a recharge/evacuation resolves the problem short term. Why it's not lasting? What, if anything, could I try to diagnose? Seems that my mechanic does not know what else to try.
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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus I bourg a month ago. The dealer I bought it from replaced the air compressor on June 29. Today I had been in my car for a couple of minutes and was stopped at a stop light when my car idle increased and all of a sudden I heard a high pitched screeching sound. The a/c immediately quit blowing cold air. I turned the a/c immediately to vent and continued to drive home. After raising the good once I got home, I could see a bunch of what looked like rubber and oil shavings down under the compressor. What may have happened?
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So roughly 2 months ago my ac wasnt blowing cold anymore and it was the evaporator, so i got a new one put in and recharged and it blows 50 degrees or colder now and it still blew that cold today. But today i heard a noise coming from the engine, so i inspected it and saw the compressor was turning on and off which it was doing right before i got it fixed 2 months ago, so I know its not the compressor but i know that's probably gonna go soon to. now its getting to winter so I don't need the ac.
Everything else is working perfect never had any problems with the car other then the ac, it does get used a lot cause but it never gets pushed passed level 2 out of 4. it has 90k on it and i was wondering if this is a major repair to just let it go and sell it for a reasonable price and pick up another car? or just fix it and hope another problem does not arise in 2 months. Like i said ive never had any problems with it before other then the ac. it still runs great and i can still floor it and she responds almost like new.
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I have a 1998 Ford Ranger 4 WD 3.0 L Vulcan engine. When I turn on the AC it blows out hot air, in fact it feels like the heater is on. I have checked the pressures with a gauge and both high side and low side are within working ranges. Also when I turn it to some of the heater functions the AC compressor kicks on as well. I have tried turning the temperature dial between hot and cold but that doesn't seem to change anything.
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AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
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