Ford A/C :: Clutch Won't Engage - Low Pressure PSI Reading Is Over 85
May 4, 2015
The patient: e99 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 "Million Mile" motor, 350k miles.
Symptoms: AC won't engage, low pressure PSI reading is over 85, past my needle's capability.
Story: Bought the truck and found a big fat rock hole in the condenser. Swapped condenser and dryer, vacuumed, oiled, and recharged the system. Worked great for 1 month. Now seems any time I turn the truck off or turn off the AC it sends the low pressure soaring above 85 PSI. If I "De pressurize" the system to normal, Turn the truck on, then the clutch engages, and things go back to normal, then below normal because I just depressurized 2 cans worth of the system. Add two cans and it's good to go.
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I tried searching here for a pid to get oil pressure. Can't find it. Is it possible to get oil pressure readings on these motors? I assumed it would be because we have a dummy oil pressure gauge on the dash. I thought it would be in the pop up list of gauges on Torque but I didn't see it.
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I have a 2002 Ranger V6 3000 with 100K miles. Can I add a higher viscosity oil since my pressure gauge is acting up. I changed the sending switch twice but the gauge still acts up occasionally. I was thinking of adding 10/ 30 on my next oil change. I do live in the area where the air temp is quite high in the summer. The truck runs well except for the oil gauge, in my opinion, is giving false readings.
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0, 4x4 that just hit 100k and the oil pressure gauge doesn't show a reading for about 1 minute after startup. Also, the check gauge light comes on. What do I replace to fix this and is it something I can do myself? I am mildly handy. Would you worry about fixing it or just let it go because it's obviously getting oil pressure.
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These are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
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I have been having an intermittent (2 times in the past 2000 miles) oil pressure gauge not reading. As I own a 6.0L I understand that this is just a pressure switch in reality and if the engine was starved of oil the HPOP system would kill the engine. The first time the oil gauge went out it was raining out. The second time was after going through a carwash and getting the underbody wash. At this time my battery light also came on for a few seconds.
Both problems seemed to go away after an engine restart. Today it is snowing lightly and my battery light came on again. I happened to be monitoring the battery voltage and FICM voltage via OBD II using Torque app. At no time while the battery light was on today did the battery voltage drop below 13.5V. The FICM was also stable at 48.5+/-.5V.
As the battery voltage read by the PCM is not actually dropping and the previous oil pressure gauge and the fact that my left blinker indicator is out I am thinking I may have electrical issues with the gauge cluster. I have never had these issues while driving in dry weather. Where do I start troubleshooting this? Also I am going out of town for the next two weeks and my girlfriend was going to use the vehicle. Is it OK for her to drive?
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I have a 1999 Winnebago Motorhome on a F53 Ford V10 Chassis and the A/C clutch will not engage when turning on the A/C. I have check the Freon 134A and it appears to be fine (in the red zone) and actually put a jumper across the pressure switch connector (harness side) and it still will not engage. Is there a fuse within the circuit if so, where it may be located?
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Just changed the fuel filter in my '04 6.0, no issues worked just like normal, filter primed truck started, great. Well now my fuel pressure gauge is reading dead 0, I know that can't be right because the truck is running, but noticed my fuel mileage seems about 2 mpg lower all of a sudden. Had R&R Injectors installed about 40k ago, figure it's just a bad gauge but wanted to check and see before messing with the frickin wiring. Also, have had a lot of pressure buildup in the coolant tank, has had head gaskets and studs, anything else it could be besides head gaskets? Have had a lot of wiring issues with this truck from the previous owner....
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On my 2001 Excursion the ac clutch went south over the weekend. I replaced the clutch with a factory clutch kit. Now the problems are baffling me.
I set the air gap at .020. The problem being when I turn the ignition switch on and turn on the ac switch the clutch does not engage. I still get cold air. When I start the truck and it runs the clutch is engaged without any problems, I turn it off and the clutch disengages.
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So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
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I recently purchased a 2003 Grnd Marquis that has EATC climate control. It was a cold day, snowing some and the heater was set to 72 degrees on floor/defrost mix. Several days later it warmed up to over 40 degrees so I decided to try the AC. When I switched over to Max AC, I still only got airflow through the defrost. Any airflow setting (floor, vent, AC, Max AC) only gets airflow through the defrost. Also, the AC clutch did not engage when I set it on Max AC or it is not engaged when set on defrost. Will replacing the EATC head unit fix it? Is this also why the AC compressor clutch does not engage?
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I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
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Sometimes in the morning the AC will work just fine, but after a while it stops working. It looks like the clutch will not engage and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. I'll take a picture later on today. I'm wondering which part is what, and what might be causing the problem.
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1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L 5 speed transmission. I am a little confused I can not get the transmission to engage the clutch, I replaced the clutch 3 weeks ago, now I have no pressure in the pedal, I have bleed the system 5 attempts with clean solid flow of fluid. What else can I do to fix this or trouble shoot from here?
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Says A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
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I have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
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Can I read oil pressure on my scan gauge II ? If so, how do I do it?
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I have a 2001 m5r2 ford f-150 standard transmission. i have replaced the slave cyl., the entire clutch assy., the master cyl. pilot bearing. the trans. will engage all five gears plus reverse while truck is off but will not engage a gear while running. i have bled and bled and bled and still will not engage.
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
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I purchased a second set of rims and tire pressure sensors from the Tire Rack for snow tires on my 460. Since installation, the tire pressure display on the dash only displays the pressure reading by wheel if I stand still long enough before driving. If I do not wait long enough before driving, the pressure will not be displayed and will ultimately display the tire warning symbol. My first thought is the Tire Rack sold me the wrong sensors, but they insist the Pacific 315 MHZ sensor they sold me is the same as Lexus uses.
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