Ford A/C :: Air Not Blowing Out Of Main Dash Vents
Sep 30, 2012
OK.. 2005 F150 Lariat. Air conditioner worked on the way to work, went to drive home, air not blowing out the 4 main dash vents. Blows cold out the feet, and redirect SEEMS to be working, just not blowing at all out the main vents in the dash?
Even if you adjust the temp to where it should be blowing warm/hot air, it will not blow out the main vents.
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My last problem was a leaky rear window. In my 11 F150 XLT, whenever I turn the Recirculate on with the main vents, my main vents seem to stop blowing. 2-4 work, but no 1.
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Heat is blowing through my dash vents in front of the windshield with the controls OFF!
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My 2001 F250SD 5.4L is doing something odd. When I have the A/C on and accelerate, it shifts from blowing out cold air from dash vents and goes to blowing lukewarm air out from the defrost vents on top. As soon as I decelerate or tap the brake pedal, it switches back to the dash vents and blows cold again. Even minor acceleration switches the air from blowing out the dash vents to blowing out the defroster vents.
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4.0 v6 A/c works great at first. Then after a while stops blowing out the center dash vents. What to check? Still blows cold out the vents by each front door...
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2002 - 7.3 lariat, my a/c stays on max because of the recirculating effect. When I get in the next morning during summer of course, my dash vents take a few seconds to begin, default defrost till that time passes. Sure I know about leaks and redone all that to make my vacuum hubs work correctly. It didn't begin till later not right after that overhaul.
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My heater vents have been acting up. I have read that there may be a vacuum leak that causes the blend doors to default to defrost...
Where the vacuum line fails? I have ESOF 4x4 and that is still working. I think there may be a correlation between engine vacuum and my vents: at cruising or idle the vents work ok (not perfect) and under acceleration (less vacuum) the dash vents stop blowing.
I thought that the blend doors had their own vacuum pump, so I do not know why things change at different amount of throttle?
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The town car will not switch its blower position from dash down to the vents or the floor. AC/Heat both work and the speed is still adjustable.
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My car: 2008 Prius (base)
Here is the problem: All of a sudden the two middle vents in the dash stopped blowing. I have played with the settings - on, off, all the way hot, all the way cold - nothing from the two mid vents. The left and right vent blow with no problem. There is also cold air coming from the vent near the windshield - just the two middle dash vents are not functioning.
What I have done so far: I had it looked at by a mechanic who I trust. He said there is a small motor (he called it a servo motor) that controls that middle vents (open/close). He said that had gone bad. He manipulated it so that the air blows out of the vents now and said not to change any settings until I am ready to replace the part.
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I just replaced the blend door actuator. But now when I am driving its blowing cold air thru the dash vents one minute then super hot air the next. Also I had a problem installing the actuator over the keyed shaft on the housing...
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I have 06 ford explorer in which the air comes out the main vents really weak! I've replaced the Blend Door Actuator thinking that would fix the problem but it didn't . The blower motor works the air gets cold and hot and the defroster and floor vents is where the air comes out strong.
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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My 2001 E350 van's factory rear A/C is not working. Front A/C and heat is fine. Regardless of front control position for rear, heater stays on all the time unless I turn it off with the rear control. No air is blowing from the rear A/C vents, only from the rear heater vent. This isn't a big problem right now, but will soon be an issue. I use this van for my sales route, carrying a lot of temperature sensitive snack products. I don't have an owners manual, and the Haynes manual has no info at all regarding the rear A/C.
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My mother's 2000 E150 van isn't blowing any air out of the vents. It doesn't work on high. I can detect a small amount of air coming out of the defrost vents and the floor vents when it is on high. I just replaced the resistor after finding that it had melted and still no air. My mother said that the a/c would go on and off when she hit bumps.
Do you think maybe the fan isn't grounded so the resistor overheated and caused melting in the resistor plug? The plug looks exactly like the one in the middle of this webpage. Same pin melting location also. Ford Blower Motor Resistor Pigtail Replacement...
I ran out of time to work on my moms van because I am in law school and live 2 hours away. Assuming ground, blower, and fuse are all good (I'm checking those friday), what else could be the problem?
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As the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
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I just had a bunch of work done on the engine of my 96 f250 7.5 v8 460 and now whenever I'm going up hill, my air conditioner stops blowing from the vents and after I get back of a level ground it starts blowing again. What it could be?
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On my 2000 E.B. I have NO A/C at all. All vents on the dash, regardless of vent, floor, defrost, ETC all blow hot air, even with the A/C on Max A/C. Also, all the rear vents for the rear HVC blow WARM air as well. I have no A/C in the back either. I don't hear any flopping around under the dash going down the road and I have checked the A/C compressor with the unit on Max A/C and the clutch appears to be engaged and the compressor appears to be operating normally.
I have NOT YET checked the A/C lines or dryer to see if they get cold, I will check that tonight, but I expect them to be getting cold because the Compressor does not cycle on and off, it stays running pretty much all the time. It clicks off once and again, but not very often at all (such as the case would be if the system was low on freon).
So, if the A/C lines are getting cold (if they are not, I will know my problem is compressor related, likely anyway), what this problem could be? From what I've read, if the Front blows hot, yet the rear blows cold, it's a blend door actuator or broken blend door, but that is not my problem. I have no A/C at all, everything blows hot.
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The main right beam not working message came on in my dash. I have hids in and did the vag com already. I have had them for like three months now and the warning came on today. My lights still turn on and work fine.
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2008 Generation II driver with about 66K miles.
Yesterday when I got in the car to do errands the car turned on but neither the MFD nor the main dash display turned on. I was able to get a little bit out of the MFD when I would push the display button, but it would fade and then go off. The main display was completely blank (no speedo, lights, other indicators, nothing), although it would show the turn indicators when I signaled.
When I got where I was going I couldn't turn the car off by pushing the power button, and I couldn't get the trunk open to get the garbage out.
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My 02 V-10 Ex seems to be blowing Air from the front vents up to the Defrost unless it go through a series of events-- Hit Auto then forward Air then the fan has to be a 4 only. It will blow forward vents then go back and forth from theirr to the defrost. Also the Temp seems to be much hotter then it should.
Took a interstate trip this weekend though and it seems to blow much colder and do a little bit better staying in the front vents however still goes back and forth. Im in FL and its HOT!!!! The only thing I know is that its a vacuum system.. and that again its HOT in the truck as a daily driver.
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I had my entire A/C unit converted to R-134 on my 93 F-250. This was the entire system done at a FORD dealership. I've got about 1000KM on it, mostly this past winter. I noticed a few weeks ago when i turned the A/C on that the air seemed to be only blowing air, like vent. It was not air conditioned. I ran it for 15 min or so before suddenly there was a blast of really cold air and it held strong until i turned the truck off.
I cannot reproduce the results again, however. I can tell that the compressor kicks in like before, meaning it seems to be working mechanically fine. The temp outside has been at or just above freezing. Would this have any effect on the A/C? Should I park this is a heated parade or something to test it? What to test/check prior to bringing to the dealership?
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