Ok well it has done it to me too many times. Of course this only happens when it is hot outside but it seems that when I drive for a little bit then shut off the truck for only a few minutes the complete AC dash display doesn't even light up at all. After a few hours or a few starts it kicks on like nothing has happened. It has zero power to the unit.
View 8 RepliesWell I cracked the clear plastic lens on the AC control unil while removing it to replace the factory radio. Where I can just get the minimal parts to fix this? Seems all I can find online thus far is only replacement of basically the whole control unit.
View 7 RepliesAs I was driving to work this morning, I noted that the map does not display on my center unit... no error messages, just a gray screen. Interestingly, the navigation functions seem to work just fine, just no map display.
I just had the KESSY unit replaced in my car last week. I don't know if that is related to my new problem, but thought I would mention it on the chance that it is relevant. Notably, however, it seemed to work fine when I got it back form the dealer. What the problem may be?
My '15 sonata Limited w/ Tech package has been having some issues appear with the clock on the Navigation unit.
A few weeks back, I noticed that the Date/time display across the top of the navigation screen was showing May 28. When I dug down into the clock settings, it was pulling the date May 28, year 2035 from the GPS signal. Each day it would increment to the next day.
Then last week, the date and time would not load across the screen at all. Only the normal blue bar appears across the screen without any text or numbers.
With the Daylight Savings time change over the weekend, I tried to change the time on the LCD clock in the middle of the dashboard, the clock settings are grayed out and I can not change anything.
I already hit the reset button next to the knob on the dash, and also pulled the 15A fuse but neither one worked to reset anything.
I have a 2011 Hyundai Elantra with 170,000 miles on it. The Navigation display is toast and I am not going to be buying a new one. The car will be out the door when/if it makes it to 250k miles. I want to simply go to eBay and buy a used unit from a totaled Hyundai Elantra and just use that. Connections look the same except there are not jacks for a couple of the plugs that are on the Navigation unit. Those are obviously meant for the navigation display and the back-up camera, which I will lose by going to the regular audio/bluetooth unit. The navigation has always sucked anyway, so I don't care about that. I just want to be sure that the bluetooth and the radio work once I switch them out. I already have the Nav unit uninstalled. The screen is busted on it.
Current Unit (Navigation)
P/N: 96560-3X101FP
Model: AVN-700MDNA
Used Unit (Regular Audio/Bluetooth Unit):
P/N: 96170-3X161BLH
Model: PA-710MDLSBBLH
Will this one work?
I have a 2010 Corolla (purchased December of '09) and just recently the radio has started acting up. Since it got cold last year, it seems after long periods with the heater on, the radio unit display will go haywire. Today, the display did the same thing after my car sat in the sun for a couple of hours (and it was pretty warm inside). Obviously it doesn't make any sense to me, but I thought the display was trying to tell me that it's "too hot" Buttons on the unit will intermittently malfunction as well.
For example, hitting "2" will turn the unit off, pressing another preset number will switch the radio from FM to AM. Keeping the unit off while driving doesn't seem to fix the issue - but it does correct itself after a while.
I have a 97 E-150 with A/C. When I turn on the climate control unit to either heat or a/c and the blower motor fan control switch to any setting I do not feel anything coming from any vents above or below the dash. However every once in awhile I can hear that it is putting a small strain on the motor as the motor tends to bog down a little like it normally does when the a/c is on. When the heater control unit is turned off there is no strain on the motor.
I don't want to go replacing things and blowing money that isn't necessary on parts that aren't bad. I would like to get this fixed before the cold weather actually gets here.
I made the mistake of removing the driver's headlight unit to replace the running/turn bulb while the lights were on. Now NOTHING in it will turn on, not the xenon light, the cornering light or either the running/turn. VAG shows the errors like they are all out (open).
I have reset the errors in both cent. elec. and xenon range, I have shut down and locked the truck and let it sit before restarting it. Only thing left to do is pull batteries (V10 has two) but that seems extreme!
A week ago while on an errand my car wouldn't start when I returned to it. Dash panel lights/radio/seat belt chime all worked, however. Luckily the shopping center security had a jump box so after a couple of attempts the car started. Got it home, but then it would restart. Have a tester/charger, hooked it up, showed ok and fully charged. Still wouldn't start. Took battery out to shop to get another test to double check next day---battery was putting out 626 CCA when its rated 590 (a Motorcraft battery I'm sure came with car---I'm 2nd owner). Obviously tested good. Put battery back in car. IT STARTED. Drove on another errand and didn't switch off until returning home. After switching off would not restart.
Tried disconnecting and reconnecting battery cables thinking it was a connection problem of some kind---several attempts over last few days. Has yet to start back, and now the car's electronic display is giving a "Low Battery" message, even after I left on the charger (slow charge, 2 amps) ALL DAY, with charger telling me battery is good and fully charged!! I know it has a starter relay that I've found and unplugged and plugged back in (but haven't replaced yet---$9 from Ford). This does not seem like an alternator problem to me. Besides that and relay, the only thing I can think of is starter is bad. (Also had someone recommend to me trying to start with the car in N---auto trans; also no dice).
No power to the radio or cd unit. When I push the power button nothing comes on. Also my clock is flashing and I can't set it. What is the problem?
View 1 RepliesI have a E39 1997-model. When I turn of the engine, I hear a ticking sound from somewhere under the radio or the ventilation unit. What is this sound? Will it drain my battery?
View 1 RepliesI have an 05 Freestar with no instrumentation and no error codes. None of the gauges work and most of the warning lights are lit when the truck is running. No A/C and no ABS while driving and turn signals work, but do not display on the dash. It appears that two separate code readers are not acknowledging the computer. The battery and alternator check out good and there is no drain on the battery when ign switch is off.
View 5 RepliesIm replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release. I know it has to be very simple, I just cannot see how it releases.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 SD 7.3 with 210K miles. It has the OE water pump, clutch and fan. I am replacing every thing from pump to fan including pulley, thermostat and sensor. The question is can every thing be removed as a unit? I don't see why not but never did one that way.
View 14 RepliesI figured I would try my hand at making a video because I find them useful.. Anyway, if you plan on dropping the DEF tank and /or replacing the heater/sending unit.
2011 -2014 Ford DEF tank removal / sending unit replacement - YouTube
I recently dropped my tank and one of the connector clips broke taking it off. How can I find anther connector or clip, I have looked at the ford dealer, napa and oriellys with not luck. It seems as if they don't exist. The ford dealer wants me to buy a new fuel line. Also I did something that now I know is not good but I cut the connector out to take to the parts stores and they said that it can not be put back together. Is this true?
View 8 RepliesI just installed a new Pioneer head unit in my 2002 Excursion. Everything works great except it doesn't work on accessory power. I used a harness to harness hook up but I basically just connected like colored wires. When done I had three extra wires coming from the truck harness, black with a white line, and two orange wires... one may have had a black stripe. All others were connected. Do I have to get power off of a wire from the ignition switch or did I not connect one I should have?
View 4 RepliesSo I shorted wires out putting a new plug on my mirror, and now I have no turn signals, no backup lights and no overhead display that shows mpg and outside temp. All fuses are good, and I don't think it is my flasher relay just because I also have no park lamps or over head display.
View 3 RepliesWill the oil pressure switch (sending unit) on my E series van be in the same location as on an F series truck even though the van's oil filter is under the engine instead of on top? I'm referring to the single wire sender for the dash gauge.
View 2 RepliesI've read some treads on the temp gauge sending unit but I'm a little foggy on where to look for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, temp gauge not working. It has a new sending unit. I read some threads about the voltage at the plug but I have no voltage on either side of the plug. The way I understand it red/white wire goes to the battery. Is there a fuse between them and which one is it? and if fuse is ok is there a cronic problem that someone might know of that I can look for?
View 7 RepliesSo I did the hutch mod several months ago and all was fine.. Couple days ago I went to fill up, cheap diesel, for upcoming trip.
Fuel gauge was working and showing just less than 1/2 tank. Went to Walmart with gift card and started pumping. Got to talking with duramax owner and noticed fuel was finished. did not pop off like the level was high in fill tube just can to end of money..
SO I get in, turn on key to get mileage to mark down miles, gallon, amount etc and noticed the fuel gauge look like it wanted to go up and then it drops to "E" and the fuel light comes on..
Yesterday I drop spare and check sending unit connection which was OK so must be issue with sending unit. ?? So I might need to take camper shell off, fiberglass, and lift bed.. too much fuel in tank and not going to be driving it enough to get down. What size are the bolts holding bed to frame and how do I need do this??