Ford A/C :: 2010 F150 - Clogged Evaporator Coil?
Oct 4, 2016
I have a 2010 F150. Everything checks out on the system pressure-wise, except that airflow is reduced. Likely diagnoses is dirty evaporator coil. Is there any way to try to clean this thing without removing the dash? That's a huge project, or a very expensive one if I can't do. Even if it is something that is just worth a try, I will try it.
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I seem to be having a leak occuring from somewhere within the engine compartment, as I see beads of water dripping into the driver side and passenger side carpets. It only occurs when I turn the fan/A/C on.
This is leading me to believe that the evaporator drain is clogged, the only issue is: Where is it exactly located? I'm looking near the passenger side firewall within the engine compartment for a small black rubber hose, but I can't seem to find it. Is it further down underneath the firewall?
To add insult to injury, the VSA, traction control and check engine light both turned on today. I'm not sure if this is the result of persistent water leaking and causing something to short (I don't really know how water has been leaking for) but what could've caused that?
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I have noticed a refrigerant oil smell coming out of the A/C vents when I first start my truck with the a/c on.. smells like the PAG oil in the A/C system.. I got under the truck and stuck my finger in the condensate drain and it's oily, and has the same smell.. the A/C is still blowing cold, but the smell is getting worse..
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My wife's 2000 Jeep Cherokee has a failing A/C system. Last year it was blowing warm air in the middle of the summer so I took it to a local mechanic who recharged the freon and it was fine through the rest of the summer. This year it is blowing warm again so we took it in for another recharge and it only lasted a few days. The mechanic said there is a leak at the evaporator coil(?) He said the entire dash needs to be removed to repair and it would run about $1000 to fix. This seems a bit steep. Any thoughts or experience with this issue?
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I am doing an sas on my 93 f150 short bed. my issue is that I've made coil spacers out of 1/2" thick by 3" tall by 4" in dia.... as you can see strength is not an issue here. i bought 6" lift coils for a 93' then decided to just say f it and throw a d44 straight axle under it. the springs on a 78' d44 are the same dia. top to bottom. 93' springs get smaller at the bottom so i made this spacer for two reasons.... 1 to have smaller seat for the bottom of the coil.. and 2 so i could make up the spring length difference between the two springs. The spacers are leaning forward due to the 7 degree c bushings on the radius arms.
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Here we go again. shut my 87 F150 5.0 off when I got to work when it was time to leave no spark from the coil, same as 3 weeks ago. First thing I did was pull the new dist and replace it nothing, so I pulled out the new coil still nothing, its getting power to the coil so I would assume the relay is good .
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I'm in having emission problems with my 2010 F250 lariat 6.4 diesel truck my DPF filter keeps getting clogged up engine just shut off on me then I sent it to get cleaned professionally got it installed drive it for 20 miles and my pick up shut off on me and left me stranded and I can't seem to pass inspection...
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Recently picked up a 2011 GX 460, premium, black exterior, sepia interior. New to the forum and love the truck!
Question: Where exactly the evaporator drain plug is located for my truck?
When I start the AC there is a noticeable musty smell from the vents that goes away after a few minutes. A fellow lexus owner friend told me I needed to purchase the Toyota AC Refresher kit which will clean out the musty smell. I bought the kit from Lexus Sewell and found a YouTube video highlighting how to use the kit.
Step 1 is to use a can of foam to clean the AC evaporator coils. To do this one must connect the can to the evaporator drain plug. The video states to find the evaporater drain plug to run your AC for a while and look for the condensation dripping out of the plug and that is where you plug in. However for me the weather has not been warm enough yet this year to allow for the condensation to occur.
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I took my car for the engine knocking at 34xxx miles to the dealer here in NJ. They mentioned it was the EGR that was clogged, so they replaced it. 2 weeks after that, the same incident happened whenever it wasn't allowed to warm up. This time the dealer diagnosed it with having a hole in piston #1? To make the story short, i received my car 2 days ago with a brand new engine from toyota. I tried to re-create the same issue, and it would not happen. Could this be resolved once and for all.
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2010 RX450h, 63k miles. Noticed a bad smell, we thought it might be spilled milk or something, but now I've found that the carpet is wet. Worst under the front seats, but also the mats and under the mats, front and back. Probably worse on the passenger side.
I've read that this might be due to a clogged a/c drain line. I've noticed, though, that there is definitely water dripping underneath the car...I think from where the drain line would be (the dripping is a bit forward of the glove compartment). The thing is, it is still dripping now some 3 hours after the car was last driven. Specifically, I drove from about 10a-11a, then again from 2:45p-3:45p. Noticed dripping beneath the car, maybe a drop every 1-2 sec, 2.5 hours after the last drive ended. Now more like 3 hours after the last drive, the dripping has slowed. I'm wondering, does the dripping mean that maybe my a/c drain line is fine? Or does is the extended dripping time unusual, maybe indicating a partial clog and water then getting into the car?
If it might be the a/c drain hose, can I access it from the engine compartment, and then how to unclog it? I don't want to jack up the car and go underneath...would rather take it to a dealer than do that.
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The driver-side nozzle on our Avalon is clogged but the passenger works great.
We have tried wires, needles and spray air cans but to no effect.
I want to remove the nozzle from under the hood (it is not on top) but do not want to break it.
How to do that?
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So recently I decided to add some fluid to the windshield washer tank, but when I added some, a clump of slime fell right in. Needless to say I couldn't do much about it. Now I have no fluid running through the system. What could I do to purge the junk out of the system? And where is the pump that drives the system?
I figured out I would have to remove the bumper to get to this part. In theory I could take it up to the dealership ...
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I own an Elantra GLS 2012, and starting a week ago, I noticed my windshield washer was coming out through the nozzles with low pressure (1/2 of the windshield). Yesterday one stopped working and the left nozzle is "spitting" (1/3 of the windshield).
I thought they are clogged and today I tried to unclog them using computer air cleaner, but air was coming out through the left nozzle with pressure and nothing through the right nozzle. When I tried to wash my windshield, no pressure on my right nozzle and low pressure on my left nozzle. Same as before.
I plugged off the tube from the hose connector under the hood, and if I pull back the control bar, I have a stream of washer liquid over 3m (10ft) long, but if I put my finger on the hose, I don't have pressure on the windshield washer.
My question is: the nozzles are clogged or the pump is dead?
I know the clogged nozzles are not under warranty, but what about the pump?
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B5 Passat, it has the 2.8 and it has been having moments of shuttering so I did a scan and hit 3 engine falts, I did do a clear and rescan so these are new faults.
3 Faults Found:
17801 - Ignition Coil Power Output 1
P1393 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17802 - Ignition Coil Power Output 2
P1394 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17803 - Ignition Coil Power Output 3
P1395 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Right now my guess is the coil pack is going out or loose connection to the coil, this coil is roughly 8 months old so it kinda has me at a loss and hoping its not the coil.
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It was a chilly morning for North Texas, in low 20's this morning. I started my truck in the driveway driveway, as I do any morning when it cold out, then retreated back the house to grab my coffee before hitting the road to work. This morning was different, the engine had stalled out but the battery still had the lights and radio on. Any thoughts on this aside from the usual guesses of cylinder, fuel pump and purge valve?
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I have a 2010 ford f150. Every time I fill it up with gas it wont start upon the first try just turns over. Second time it sputters and then stalls.Third time it starts then runs and stalls.Fourth time it will start fine until I fill the truck up with gas again. I caught part of a Car Talk shop on Saturday May 25 about a gas fumes the new sealed gas tanks, charcoal filters. Didn't hear all of the program.I read some articles on the internet about a possible gas tank valve. What is the problem with this ford f150 truck to make it stall out after it is filled with gas???
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I have a 06 expedition limited and have been having a ac problem for some while now.. Around town both front and rear ac work and blow cold air just fine. While on the hwy 20-30 miles on road outside temp 90+,ac starts to fade, on high you can barely feel it coming out of the vents but it's still loud... Evaporator is freezing up..after a hour plus of hwy driving the rear will slowly fade away also..I can turn off the ac off and around 5 minutes turn it back on and the ac will work good for around 15 or so minutes before fading away again. Had the ac checked out,no leaks,not low on freon. Suggested the front expansion valve be changed..tried that and still same problem..temp monitored from the vent gets as low as 28-30 degree F before fading away?
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I took my 2010 F-150 for brake job and ended up with brake fluid in intake!! How that happened?
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I have a 2010 F150 with the 5.4 V8. How many cam shaft position sensor do I have ??? I replaced one but I swear I see one one the passenger side...
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My XLT did not come with tweeters in the upper location near the door handle. Adding factory tweeters there..... I know how to wire them up but would like to know part numbers, pictures or any tips about install........
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I'm putting a new evaporator into my '87 F250. The manuals I have give conflicting numbers on how much oil I should add to the system. How much oil is needed in this replacement? Also, do I add the oil to the accumulator or pour it into the new evaporator?
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