Ford A/C :: 2007 F350 - Vents Work Up Top But Not Forward Or Floor
Jul 30, 2013
I have this issue on my 07 F350 TD. The vents were working fine, then from one day to the other the following started happening. No matter which blower setting I select, air only comes out of the defogger vents on top of the dash. The forward and floor vents do not operate. Cold and warm settings work, along with all blower speeds.
Found this, but need a little more to fix it:
Problem: Air flow has defaulted to the defrost vents (either all the time or under acceleration).
Solution: The system is designed to default to the defroster in the event airflow control is lost. Intake manifold vacuum is supplied to the control head, whether manual or automatic (electronic) to operate the vacuum motors.. A very common failure is a split, cracked, or otherwise leaking vacuum line located between the battery and firewall. Other causes include a leaking vacuum reservoir (inside the right front fender), faulty check-valve inside the dash, or other vacuum leak in the system.
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No matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
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The floor and defrost vents work. It just stays on defrost when you try to use the dash vents. The actuator seems to be working fine. I can watch the arm move through all the motions. and I cant find ANY vacuum leaks. Yes I looked at the hubs and under the hood. May be moving to alaska and kind of need my heater to work properly. . . .
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I recently found out that my check valve needs replacing for my a/c vacuum. The problem came from when I turn my AC on, the panel vents do not work. Instead, the Defrost vents push the AC air out. How to replace the vacuum check valve? I would like to avoid the high cost of dealership prices.
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I am beginning to think that I need a whole forum dedicated to my trucks wiring issues ... I finally got my reverse lights to work but my newest issue Is that while driving tonight i lost power to my parking lights, my instrument cluster lights, and my heat control lights... everything still works inside (gauges all act properly but they won't light up) and i still have turn signals and brake lights, and headlights. I really don't know where to start with this one. I don't have an owners manual so i can't figure out what fuses to check or what relays to look at. It is a 2007 f350 diesel....
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I have a couple of concerns:
1. On my temp control when I select the floor for the air it never comes out of the floor vents. Just curious before I tear into it.
2. When I run my AC it seems to alternate from defrost vents to head panel vents. Just wondering if that is part of its function or is there something wrong.
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I have a 2010 f-150. Started having issues with the blend door actuator located behind the radio so replaced that a couple months ago and fixed issue. Now the a/c will only blow through the defrost and floor vents. I replaced the lower blend door actuator thinking that might be the culprit, but did not fix the problem. What the solution might be.
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in my 2008 ford Ranger Sport with a V6. The smell reminds me of one winter when I had stepped in dog and didn't know it until I was four miles down the road and the heater was on full blast. The smell floods the cabin when the heater is first turned on and warms up, but dissipates after a while. (And I don't have dog on the floor boards or on my boots.)
The smell does not come out the AC vents or when the AC was operated this past summer.
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02 F250 with 7.3. When I activate the 4WD, my light comes on, the A/C quits blowing out of the forward vents and goes into defrost and no 4WD. If I sit and wait a bit, the air again blows out the front vents and the 4WD engages. I figure I have a vacuum leak somewhere in the 4WD system. Is there a common place for this to happen or do I need to trace the whole system down? Also my manual hubs has never been turned and of course they won't. I know better than use a wrench so is there a easy way to free them up or just go ahead and disassemble and clean?
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1998 F150 XLT 4.6l automatic,,,
Drove the truck on a trip the other day, about 650 miles with a loaded 5x8 trailer in tow. A/C started acting weird. When the truck was on level ground, or going down hill, the A/C was fine. Cold air coming out the correct dash vents. As soon as I started up hill, or put the truck under strain of acceleration, the A/C would stop blowing out the dash vents and would start coming out the floor or defrost vents, or just not come out anywhere.
When I turned the A/C off and just used the vent setting, it would do the same thing with the fresh air. I guessing this has something to do with my vacuum lines, somewhere. What I should be looking for and where?
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My 97 e350 club wagon is doing something weird. Front AC wont go to Max Air, the blend door wont function. Can hear vacuum trying to work. Rear Unit is on Heat even though Front is on AC and blows hot air out the rear floor vents. Hit some high water going too fast about a year ago. Next day, this started happening. Rigged up blend door so air flows through vents.
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I don't know why... It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problemo, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral.
There was no banging, no clunkin, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened. I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more.
Next I did the obvious and checked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new. I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
I am on a tight budget and working on my back. I am willing to take the tranny out and bring it into town. Personally I think it's electronic but I don't know ...
Why THis thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings?
Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue? I really want to avoid removing the tranny at all costs so if there is something I am missing let me know and if you think just yank it out I will.
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Have a 02 with climatronic. You put it on vent and it blows out the vent. You press floor and it goes ape and the fan goes to max and nothing comes out the vents and nothing comes out the floor. IF you put it on floor only there is flow like normal. You can not have it on floor and vent. I drove 2 other passats and they both allow floor and vent. Havent been able to check codes because car has been at dealer for a week.
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I have a 98 gtp 2 door with the electronic dual zone climate control. I can't get air to blow much out of the floor vents. I applied vacuum directly to the actuator and air came from the vents fine. It seems there is a box behind the glove box that controls the vacuum to each actuator. My question is, would the issue likely be with that vacuum distribution box or with the electronic climate box itself.
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Would the control on dash cause there to be no air coming out heater vents on floor. I can hear the blower very loudly in dash about in the middle air comes out dash vents and out defroster ducts. When you switch to heater you get blower noise but very little air coming out floor vents.is it the control or possibly a vacuum mother on a vent somewhere
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It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problem, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral. There was no banging, no clunking, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened.
I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more. Next I did the obvious and cheked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new.
I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? Ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check ***** were in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
Why this thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings? Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue?
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I turn it up on any fan speed, and set it on the floor setting, and nothing blows out the bottom vents. pretty much no air is getting to the bottom vents.
I do feel some air blowing out of the windshield defroster vents when I put it on the floor setting. seems like something is blocking it maybe?
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The town car will not switch its blower position from dash down to the vents or the floor. AC/Heat both work and the speed is still adjustable.
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My dad just got a 2012 Camry LE, with the 4 cylinder engine. The heater seems to be working fine except for the floor vents. When I select that option on the HVAC control, I can hear the fan working but there's absolutely no airflow coming out from under the dash.
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It's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
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1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cylinder need rebuilding or is my vacuum diaphragm going. Not sure that's what its called.
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