Ford A/C :: 2006 SD - No Noticeable Cooling
Apr 25, 2010
2006 SD 5.4 born in WY so the AC was probably used a lot. 126k. The system is charged. The clutch gap was too wide and when I took the ac clutch off, and there was only one spacer in there. I removed the spacer and then my gap was too small. Without the spacer the clutch would come on for 2 seconds then go off for about 20.
At this point I still suspected the spacing, so this time I took the spacer and ground it down with my grinder (verry delicately). I put it back together and the spacing is better. The clutch now cycles on for several seconds longer than before, then turns off. Firmly pressing the clutch with a dowel does nothing at all.
With the gauges on the system, when the clutch is engaged pressure builds to the yellow caution zone (45+psi) then the clutch disengages and the pressure drops. There is no noticeable cooling in any of the above situations. Could my clutch be shot? Could my clutch be bad?
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Is it normal that while driving I can see my headlights wiggling? I have only noticed it on the highway and it is on all types of highway surfaces. I wouldn't doubt it if it was also happening on regular streets as well.
What I mean is that while driving at night on the highway if I look at highway signs or big rigs in front of my car I can see the lights shining from my headlights and they are shaking like crazy.
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Right now I am seeing roughly 41 MPG and that is after changing the spark plugs with brand new NGK Iridium's, Air intake filter and did an oil change since it was due for one. I have driven the car roughly 2,500 miles since all of this stuff was done and it just seemed to continue to drop to the 41 MPG mark.
What I have noticed though is that when the motor turns off it shudders and the when it restarts while the car is in park the car will roll back and forth slightly. I have also noticed that the car seems to struggle to get up to the posted speed while climbing an incline and also while the car idles in park or at a complete stop there seems to be a bit of a miss fire. Could that be caused by a bad coil? Because I have tried everything short of taking it to the dealer which I really do not want to do again and be told there is nothing wrong with it when I know there is.
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A/C takes a long time to start cooling, but after it starts it gets as cold as it should. Seems to do okay while highway driving after it starts cooling. Is this a low refrig problem or do I have bigger issues?
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I have a chirping/ squeaking sound in the engine extremely noticeable on idle. It's not the actual belt because it continues the noise much after the car is heated up. Have no clue what it is, I have 145000 miles. Also when running the engine hard notice a hissing sound sort of like turbo at high rpms especially with ac on high.
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it can be 2* outside here in the winter and my fan will kick on even right after a cold start.
my rad. the fan kicks on and off randomly for some reason, when it does it makes my idle jump up a few hundred RPM's at the same time. it can be 20 sec. after I start my car, from a cold start, or anytime. AC is not on, as I leave it on the economy. this is in a 2006 A3 3.2 (not that it should matter)
are there any common issues that I should check? fan switch? or any other sensor that might be the cause?
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I have a 2006 Passat 3.2 and a while back, I noticed that it would take the AC a very long time to cool, once it got temp down, it was fine. I checked low pressure and it is just perfect. I noticed, once car would cool down, and one gets to read light, after being stopped again, ac tends to get warmer. AC fan seems to be running fine and no errors on Computer. Miles 105,000
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I have a 2007 Sonata and It recently lt began to blow hot air out of one side and freezing cold out the other side. Took it to the dealer and the technician said he didn't know what was wrong but recommended that the system be evacuated and refilled at a cost of 281.00. Actually, what he said is that the compressor is either overfilled or underfilled.
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I'm working on 07sonata 2.4. The cooling fan is always on when key is on. I used to be a hyundai tech and remembered seeing something about the engine room fuse box and I have access to wiring diagrams. So in essence you go to connector jc01 pin 2 pink and connector je01 pin 25 pink. Cut the wires and connect them together bypassing the fusebox all together. But that didn't work this time. One thing I discovered is that if I touch my power probe to the heatsink of the fan control module I have battery voltage available. I first discovered this because I was removing said module and my 10mm touched it when it slipped a touch.
Is this 'hot' heatsink evidence of a shorted module? No codes in system. Ect tests good when hot and cold. A/c is not commanded on. Being that I used to be a tech for Hyundai I also know the engine fuse box can be touchy as well...
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Was just on a trip (about 200 miles or so each way) and the AC worked just fine.
Car has sat for a few days unused.....when I used it to day, the AC blows warm...doesnt cool at all.
I hooked up a gauge to the low pressure side and the pressure reads very high (in the red zone of the gauge).....
Cant tell if the compressor is kicking on or not when the car is running...
Car is 600 miles out of warranty (of course).
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My cooling fan races more than it used to. The coolant level appears to be fine. Could it be a faulty sensor and where is it located and is it something I can replace myself? The engine temp gauge reads in the mid range so the system isn't overheating.
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I have an 06 Passat 2.0T, and last night whenever I shut off the car, the cooling fan is constantly running. I had to unplug the battery so it wouldn't drain it, and about 5 hours later, I hooked it up and it stays off. I also noticed when turning on the air conditioning, the smaller fan doesnt kick on. I'm lost and don't know where to start. Could it be a thermal switch or the whole fan assembly
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I notice a high pitch squeal when I turn off the car ignition and is synced with the slowing of the engine cooling fan. I don't notice any significant engine noise while the car is fully running in idle. Does this indicate that bearings are going bad in the electric engine fan assembly? If so, would the noise alone be justification for getting a warranty replacement by the dealer or would they need a total fan failure in order to get it replaced under warranty at no cost. If not, think its worthwhile to replace the fan module myself to avoid imminent failure?
2009 Sonata GLS (NF) 50k Mileage
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When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
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I own a 2006 Prius with 52k miles on it. Great car BTW. The problem is simple, the radiator cooling fans stopped working on high mode; they run around 25% only even, not removing the heat from the a/c evaporator and the radiator coolant. I checked fuses: OK, checked relays: OK. They spin freely and nothing is blocking the front face of the evaporator. Funny I noticed it when I started hearing the a/c compressor buzzing noise and then I realized the fan noise wasn't there!
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08 Lexus GS350. Drove car Christmas Eve everything was fine, Christmas morning I go to start the car and it attempts to start once and before it cuts on it stops. Then anytime afterwards when I push the start button the starter doesn't engage and the radiator cooling fan comes on. I let the car sit for half a day and try to start it again I get the same cycle (it engages the starter but quits before the car turns over)...
- Battery is new as of September 14 (also took the battery to get checked 100% charged).
- I replaced the alternator in November 14
- I currently have the car at my mechanics but they can't figure it out as of yet. So far they are saying that the can't the cars computer to respond to their machine.
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The temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
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I just bought a 2006 Lexus GS300 AWD. Bought it with 99k from a older gentleman who seemed like he took really care of the car. Gave me all type of Lexus dealership service receipts. I recently noticed that the driver side seat heating and cooling doesn't work right, passenger seat works fine. I haven't checked the fuses yet just wanted to get some opinions before getting into it.
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Just got new tires Friday. Now I have a very noticeable shaking right at 35-40mph. Doesn't do this at any other speeds and test d up to 80mph. Took back to where I got the tires and told them and they rebalanced them and yet it still does it. Could it be a bad tire? What am I missing?
02 F-150 xlt 5.4 4x4 170k miles. Stock rim and tire size.
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Have a 1997 2wd F-150 XLT auto trans with 305,000 miles that has developed at vibration that is most noticeable at 55-60mph. It seems to start at about 35, but at 55 you can feel it in your seat. When it's vibrating shifting into neutral doesn't change anything.
Drive shaft u-joints: two rear replaced not too long ago (5+ years?), front joint by transmission seems to move freely, but isn't excessively sloppy, carrier bearing okay. Have done the following with no improvement:
Re-balanced all tires, no problems noticed during the balance;
Replaced first right and then left rotor and wheel bearings, no change.
Several mechanics have driven it and made different pronouncements, it's not: transmission, rear-end, tires, u-joints or carrier bearing. One mechanic ran it while up on his lift and didn't see a driveshaft balance problem. Last suggestion was that the left wheel bearing were "on their way out", so they were the most recent change. It's drivable, but not fun and it produces a lot of noise in the cab.
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On my 2003 6.0l Excursion, the 5R110 is having some issues with reverse lately. Sometimes when you put it in reverse it doesn't actually engage. The only way to make it "fall" into gear is by giving it a little fuel, which then sends it into reverse. Now here me out, I'm not hitting 3,000rpms when I do this, just a light raise in rpms will get it in gear. Solenoid issue, possibly?
I haven't noticed if it does this when it won't go into reverse or if it does it no matter what, but it will make a light clunk when going forward after using reverse. A very light, but noticeable clunk. Is this most likely a U-Joint related issue? Got under it and moved the driveshaft around, didn't notice any play at all, but perhaps I wasn't checking properly (wiggling it left and right).
Excursion is RWD (2WD) and has right around 183k miles on it, acquired in October with 172k miles, so not positive on previous history of the transmission. Also I know my gear selector mount is broke, so it cluster is off, but I certainly don't think that, in of itself, is the cause of my issues. Maybe I'm wrong?
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