Ford A/C :: 2006 F350 - Location Of Blower Motor Speed Resistor?
Sep 14, 2013
I have google it looked all over was told it was under the hood next to the fan even shown a photo when I went under the hood right were the resistor was in the photo there was a long black box about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. looked nothing like the photo.
So I went back on line and read that its above the passengers feet you take a few screws off after you take the glove box off and it should be there. Well after taking 8 screws off I find nothing but a coil behind there. Nothing that looked like a resistor.
2006 f350 diesel?
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I'm looking for information and possible photo location for the blower motor resistor. My truck has climate control. I've looked under the dash on the passenger side and behind the glove box door and I've been unable to spot the location. Do I have to remove the plastic panel behind the glove box?
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Where the blower motor resistor is located on the '05 model.
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Where blower resistor is located?
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I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
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Have a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
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I parked my 2003 f150 about 8wks ago, and at that time the blower had been running only on high then not at all, then only on high again.
As I need it to pull the boat up north next week, I purchased and changed the resistor. When I started it up the blower motor wouldn't run and eventually it started to smoke, so I pulled the wire connector to the motor.
Where I can find a procedure for motor testing, and removal as I think this is probably where I'm headed with this. There seems to be utube videos on everything else but not this. I may just have to go out and purchase a Hains or Chilton manual but I'm Scottish and always look for the free route first.
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I am not great with electrical but can manage. Here's the deal, Ihave a 1997 ford ranger 2wd 2.3L 5spd with a/c 233,000 miles i just replaced the heater blower motor resistor as the old one was rusted bad as was the pig tail going to it bad that one of the terminals broke off and was rusted in the harness so i replaced the plug as well problem is i still have no fan if i jump it it works but have no power at the plug for resistor or motor and no power at the switch inside the truck I do have power to one terminal where the relay plugs in, where to look next?
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with a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
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I have a 2006 Azera Limited. Where the blower motor relay is located.
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My blower works half of the time...from what I have researched it is more than likely the resistor. The thing is I can't find it..all the videos and pictures looks like they are the **** control control. Where this is located for the dual climate control?
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2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
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2010 Ford Escape Fan Speed Resistor Location? I've seen videos for 2001-2004 and 2008. They do not apply to 2010. The resistor board location has moved since 2008.
It used to be just inboard of the cabin fan motor. They were so close that If you wanted to pull the motor, you needed to unplug the wire harness from the resistor board as well as the motor.
Where is the cabin fan resistor card located for the '10 Escape, pray tell?
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Where the blower resistor is? I ordered one with the advice of the parts department but I do not know where it is located. I'm going to check under the glove compartment because I couldn't find it in the compartment in front of the gear shift and under the radio.
Symptom on 2000 Toyota Echo: Low fan speeds do not work. Only high speed works.
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I have a 2004 pontiac grand prix gt. I read some where that some of these have the resistor and blower motor close together and that the molding or rubber that runs at the bottom of the windshield after time will leak water into the blower motor and resistor and cause a short. I believe this has been the cause of a lot of my issues with car shorting out. the other day had to have it towed for the first time in its 11 years and found out it was one of the j fuses arcing causing the car not to start.
It's already 267,000 miles.
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2002 Dodge Ram 3500 van (engine unknown, but I think it doesn't matter). Blower operate only at highest speed setting. OK, that's the classic symptom of a failed resistor. Replacements are readily available at chain parts stores.
Where is the resistor located? This video shows me for a 2002 Ram 1500 van. Will it be the same on the 3500?
I've learned here that sometimes resistor failure results from bearings going bad in the blower, causing excessive current draw. Is there a way to test that other than with an ammeter? What's the correct current?
2a. If the blower motor is going bad, is that something we'll be able to replace ourselves? (Yes, I should tell them to get a Haynes or Chilton.) I don't like the idea of taking off dashboard panels.
2b. Is there any other "prime cause" I should look for if the blower motor seems OK?
Are there any other parts (other than the switch) whose failure would also give that symptom?
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I replaced the blower motor and the resistor. I just replaced the resistor again only after only a couple weeks. I noticed that two resistor plug wires (orange and black) were burnt. what can be done to fit this problem.
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I'm having some trouble with the front blower fan on my 97 Aerostar 3.0, it will only intermittently work, one time we had it running, lifted up the hood on the van, checked the connection to the motor, looked good, dropped the hood and the fan immediately started working again, I'm wonder if the relay might be starting to go bad, the fan in the back works, so I'm not sure. Where the relay is for the blower motor, or what might be wrong?
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1989 E150 Club Wagon, 5.0, EFI, Autotrans, 61kmiles.
Blower motor acting up.....sometimes on, sometimes off......mostly off now. For a while there whenever I would accelerate heavily, the Blower Motor would cut off, and when I leveled out in speed, it would come back on. I'm thinking maybe the thermal cutout in the Blower Motor Resistor Assembly..... but I also want to check the Blower Motor Relay, which I find on the schematic but have no clue where it is on the Van........ Also, it must go by another name because I can't find it listed in any of the parts stores.
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I have an '02 F150 XL. 200k miles. My a/c blows cold, and I have every fan speed, but it just doesn't blow very hard. I replaced the blower motor thinking that would work, but that did nothing. I've been told to clean the evaporator core, but I don't know where that is. How to do that, as well as any other part causing the problem.
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I bought my youngest daughter a used 2009 Ford Escape (out of warranty) a week ago. Manual HVAC controls, 3.0 V6, AWD, 73K miles. The HVAC blower motor do not seem to move any air on speed 1 and 2. However speeds 3 and 4 appear to operate normally. Speed 4 noticeably puts out more volume of air then 3. Each 3 and 4 operator what seems to be normal speeds for their setting.
I would normally suspect resistor but my experience is usually that you have all or nothing not it's partially working like this is. I don't mind throwing a new resistor in there and trying it but I rather come up with a better way of troubleshooting it then throw parts at it.
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