Ford A/C :: 2006 F250 - High Side Service Port Schrader Valve Leaking
Mar 16, 2016
I have a 2006 F-250 6.0 diesel. The high side service port schrader valve is leaking. Currently there is a charge on the system but its low. I planned on evac-ing the system, replace the cores and refill until i came across this valve remove/replacement tool from MasterCool. The only problem i have is not knowing whether or not this tool fits the valve cores I have. I see already that the high side is quite a large core. I cant even find a core removal tool at local auto parts stores to fit. What size my valve cores are or if the following would fit both high and low sides?
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Tool that allows you to remove and replace the AC Schrader valves without evacuating the system?
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I had my a/c recharged in April and it was blowing hot again by July. I brought it back in today and they told me that it is leaking out of the Schrader valve on the low pressure side. They told me that they would have to replace the entire line which would cost a few hundred just in parts. Why can't they just replace the valve. The tried calling auto stores for a special part, but could not find one. How to seal or repair just the leaking Schrader valve and not the entire line?
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I have this problem code P0405. At fist it come up with a turbo under boost. I have replaced the Turbo and egr valve and I still have the P0405. I did notice a oily residual in the port for the egr valve I see no deference in coolant. She idles good I just have no power when I put it in gear to move.
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Whats the best way to get at the driver side exhaust manifold? I have a leak and its tough to get at. Should I remove the tire and inner wheel well?
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Passenger side valve cover leaking. My local parts stores have two brands.
Fel-Pro and MAHLE Original.
Any comments, preferences, anecdotes? I don't want to do this job twice.
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I have a 2002 F250 5.4with Air Conditioning. The valve covers are leaking and the gaskets need to be replaced. I am attempting the valve cover gaskets. I was able to get the drivers side cover off with some difficulty. For the passenger side valve cover. There is very little " no" room to get at the bolts. I read somewhere that I may have to drop the engine on that side. I will do that if I have to.
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My son has an 01 LeSabre Custom with 87k. He says the a/c isn't working. I tried to put my gauges on it tonight, but I couldn't find the low pressure service port, but there's two on the high side (one on either side of a tubing connector).
I figure it should be obvious. I'm worried that the system was previously dorked with...with the two high-side ports and no low-side port. But everything looks factory.
The dryer is in the front left (passenger) of the engine compartment (when standing in front of and facing vehicle). I see the low-side line from evaporator come into it, then out of it down to the compressor in the center bottom, behind radiator. No port that I can find.
While looking for the a/c port, I also saw CVJ grease splattered all over on the driver side...it's always something. Just bought this last February (couldn't check the a/c too well) to replace the very nice 00 LeSabre 55k we bought in November for him. But the 00 didn't survive the collision with the truck that pulled in front of him...
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My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
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Haven't had the engine cover off for about 25k now (cleaned it up under there last time I changed plugs.) Took it off today and noticed it's a little oily on all four sides around the valve cover.
Pretty sure I can account for the oil that's near the filler cap... I don't recall spilling enough that would completely go around the entire valve cover though...
But how did it end up so high on top of the valve cover on the corners? It's even a little wet looking on the back if you look hard enough..
I only have 4600 miles left of the 10/100 warranty so I'm glad I caught this and hope the dealer can do something about it... or are they going to tell me this a "normal" amount of seepage? I haven't owned a vehicle with plastic valve covers before so I don't quite know what to expect.
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My son-in-law came by tonight and showed me his ticket from his oil change at the dealer on his '08 Azera, 108k miles. Tech remarked that both valve cover gaskets AND the oil pan gasket were leaking. I've walked through his garage many times when my daughter has the car at work and I've never noticed any oil on the floor. Should have I seen any? I told dealer I would just drive it and monitor the oil level and any other signs of oil leakage. Since he bought the car with 101k miles and a fresh oil change ticket and never checked the level over the next 7k miles I don't think it's leaking bad.
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I have a oil leak that I can't seem to find it appears to be leaking down above the passenger side valve cover and then goes under the engine cover. I don't notice much oil in the valley. This is a 2011 f250 6.7 with 116000 miles on it. I have had no other problems with this truck. Could this be the turbo lines? I am on a RV trip several hundred miles from home so I have very limited tools. The leak doesn't appear to be bad at this point the valve cover is wet with a small drip but it's only in the middle. I just changed my oil prior to the trip when I noticed the leak. I did have a leak on the new filter but a new filter fixed that but still have this one higher up.
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I just bought myself a 2003 F250 XLT with the V10 in it. Low miles, not beat, 6 speed, very happy with it. I noticed today that there was an inconsistent tapping coming from the passenger side valve cover. I searched online and was pointed towards the PCV baffle. I pulled the breather hose off and stuck my finger in the hole, and the baffle is indeed detached. Now I know that I need to pull the valve cover now to at least remove the baffle; is there anyway to reattach the baffle, or do I need to buy a new valve cover?
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So I had an issue with the trans temp sender leaking out of the test port where it's installed. My first clue was a smell of ATF, then a high trans temp, and finally many, many spots on the driveway. Anyway, I discovered that either I lost the o-ring for the sender or it didn't come with one. Regardless, I got an o-ring and its sealed for the most part. There is still a drop or two under the truck after it has been running. How can I fully get rid of this issue? Would some RTV thread sealer do the trick?
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I recently tried to recharge my 1994 Saturn SW2 air conditioning. The system took the charge fine, nice cool air again. Yea! On disconnecting the adapter, I heard the sound of escaping gas. I was able to place my thumb over the port and block the leak, tried reattaching adapter and removing several times, but the valve will not fully seal. Placing the cap back on the port with a small piece of plastic food wrap (hi tech) stopped the sound, but obviously not the leak entirely. A couple of weeks and the a/c is back to blowing hot air.
Is there any way to encourage the valve to seal? Should I try the variety of refrigerant that seals leaks? Is there a better choice for blocking the leak than food wrap? If it comes to it, replacing the low pressure line, is that something a person who knows how to use a wrench but not much more can do?
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I noticed this on my A3... This weekend I was working on the car and heard air leaking somewhere when the car was on. I pinpoint the leak on the upper left side of the engine where to my guess is a vacuum port. This hose leads to the brake booster. Apparently it's a plastic hose and it had split open near the port. I cut out a section of it and used some coolant hose I had laying around from my MKIV gti. Just thought I let you 3.2's know in case you want to check it out.
What is the function of this? is it to provide vacuum to the brakes? I pulled the hose while the engine was running and it wanted to die just to see if it would cause any issues. Also I may add that before this I've had some engine stuttering at idle where the rpm needle would fluctuate from like 600 rpm to 500 rpm and back up at times and that after replacing that bad section of hose it seems to have corrected that issue as well. I know there have been some stuttering issues around here and have heard that replacing the battery has worked at times.
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Where the low side air conditioning port on a 1988 ford 460 is? I found the high side one. But not the low one in order to charge the system ..
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I have a leveled out 2006 f150. The issue I am having is i have replaced my rear output seal 3 different times the last time only lasted about 4 months before it started to leak again. What is causing this or how I can fix the problem?
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
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I have a 03 F-250, 5,4L / AT trans, FX4 4X4 with power Windows/Locks/ Mirrors. I recently had a problem with my windows and radio wouldn't work. When I would start the truck the windows wouldn't move and the radio wouldn't work. (Noticed the clock wouldn't even light up indicating no power). I was reading on here about the battery saver relay could be the problem and found out it was, so that is fixed. However, before I found this website I went to hook up my truck to my code reader/ diagnostic computer and it gave me the error code of no power from the OBD-II port. I made sure everything was fine on the code readers side by using on a different vehicle. I recently installed a trailer brake controller but that uses a cable/plug under the center of the dash.
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I am doing heads studs and gaskets on the truck. I forgot to remove the stand pipe and started to lift the head off the truck with the engine jack. Well i bent the stand pipe and the port to the bock was a little loose. Tightened it back down and it seems ok. Could I have damaged anything by doing that? how is that all connected to the high pressure oil pump? I just want to make sure i didnt damage anything by doing that and since im already here I would rather make a fix instead of needed to tear down again.
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