Ford A/C :: 2006 - Evaporator Is Freezing Up?
Jul 11, 2010
I have a 06 expedition limited and have been having a ac problem for some while now.. Around town both front and rear ac work and blow cold air just fine. While on the hwy 20-30 miles on road outside temp 90+,ac starts to fade, on high you can barely feel it coming out of the vents but it's still loud... Evaporator is freezing up..after a hour plus of hwy driving the rear will slowly fade away also..I can turn off the ac off and around 5 minutes turn it back on and the ac will work good for around 15 or so minutes before fading away again. Had the ac checked out,no leaks,not low on freon. Suggested the front expansion valve be changed..tried that and still same problem..temp monitored from the vent gets as low as 28-30 degree F before fading away?
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The A/C on my 2012 Escape keeps freezing up. Happens mostly on highway and humid days. It's been to the dealership and had literally everything except the hoses/lines replaced.
The final paperwork from Ford said to run it only on the recirculate setting when running the a/c. This works but I really would prefer the fresh air setting.
I feel there is a problem with the system but maybe it's a design flaw instead of an equipment malfunction? Humid and warm weather.
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So here's the deal...my '99 Sub has developed the problem of the A/C running too cold and freezing up the evaporator.The specs call for the clutch cycle switch to shut off the compressor at 25 lbs-low side, and turn it back on at 45 lbs. With a static pressure of 120 lbs, ambient air temp of 85 degrees, engine idle 1200 RPM: when the system is turned on the compressor activates and the low side pressure stabilizes at around 30-34 lbs...the high side sits at around 180-200 lbs...fan on high, max setting on temp control, the middle-front register reads 28-36 degrees.
This is great for awhile until the evap freezes up and airflow is restricted. The lowside pressure will not drop down to 25 lbs to activate the switch to shut off the compressor. I even installed a new pressure cycle switch to no avail since the pressure will not drop enough to activate it anyway. So every half hour or so, I have to manually shut off the compressor at the control panel for about 5 minutes, and then start the process over again. The rear unit is controlled by the TXV and continues to function just fine (rear register temp 36-40 degrees).
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The switch on my Solara Convertible is freezing up. How do I change it?
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Every so often my entire Navigation system becomes unusable. The screen freezes, and audio shuts off. The screen can be turned off, but the only way to get it back working again is to turn car off for about 2 minutes and then it goes back to normal.
I can't tell if it's from overheating or not?
The car is a 2010 w/ under 3,000 miles on it. I am debating waiting until my first service and have them just look at it then. (I have full extended warranty - I am on the road a lot so I always buy them).
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A friend of mine has a 2007 Accent with some scary MDPS issues. Basically it randomly freezes the steering wheel without a warning making it extremely hard to drive. He went to the dealership and since the car is without warranty they'll charge him 1200$ for repair. Is there any recall on these models for this MDPS?
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I'm putting a new evaporator into my '87 F250. The manuals I have give conflicting numbers on how much oil I should add to the system. How much oil is needed in this replacement? Also, do I add the oil to the accumulator or pour it into the new evaporator?
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I've a 1993 2.3 and 1992 4.0 both with a/c systems down. On the 1993 Ranger I tried to loosen the evaporator tube nut to install the new accumulator now it looks like there's going to have to be a new evaporator. Without hardly any pressure that tube just twisted like it was nothing. Someone told me I have to spray it with wd-40 3 days prior to loosening it. I doubt that would even work. Hopefully removing the evaporator case cover under the hood won't be too time consuming because now I've got to. So I don't want to make the same mistake on my 1992 4.0. I need to change the accumulator, orifice tube, flush the evaporator, condenser, install the new hoses, and compressor before evacuating and recharging. Is there anything that makes it a breeze to loosening those evaporator and liquid line nuts without destroying the evaporator?
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I had all components on a/c replaced. Problem is I can't find out why it's not draining water off the evaporator. I have looked under the truck to find the drain tube but there is not one. Is something wrong here? After driving the truck for 30 to 45 mins the air starts to get hot and it starts to lose fast air flow from vents. If I shut the a/c off for an hour the a/c will work and then it starts the same thing over again.
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I have a 2010 F150. Everything checks out on the system pressure-wise, except that airflow is reduced. Likely diagnoses is dirty evaporator coil. Is there any way to try to clean this thing without removing the dash? That's a huge project, or a very expensive one if I can't do. Even if it is something that is just worth a try, I will try it.
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Is there anyway to check the ac evaporator core for leaks without removing the dash and the evaporator core box and opening the ac system? I've got a UV light and the dye is already in. My sense tells me there's no easy way out of this, but maybe one of you has figured out a work around. The vehicle is a 2001 V6 Escape.
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I have an 01 Ford ranger with a 3.0 six cylinder. The passenger side exhaust manifold got so hot it melted the housing around the a/c evaporator. The local dealer said both converters need changing for a mere $2400. Took it to a local muffler shop where did a test and said they were ok. But it still doesn't want to run and the muffler guy unhooked the exhaust from the manifold and it still wouldn't run so he said. And to me out looks like 5 converters not just two.
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Replacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
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Cleaning the evaporator on a 03 F250? A buddy of mine cleaned his F150 and said it made a noticeable difference. I was thinking of trying it on mine. If you have, whats the easiest access? Any recommended cleaner?
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I have noticed a refrigerant oil smell coming out of the A/C vents when I first start my truck with the a/c on.. smells like the PAG oil in the A/C system.. I got under the truck and stuck my finger in the condensate drain and it's oily, and has the same smell.. the A/C is still blowing cold, but the smell is getting worse..
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When I find a good deal I stock up, case in point we had a menards open up recently and with all their sales to get ya in there the washer fluid was 2 for a buck. well shoot I have 5 gallons at the house and i just ran out in the f150. problem its all summer stuff like only good til 32 degrees f. Its supposed to get to neg 9 here tomorrow night. solution my local grocery has had a sale on isopropyl alcohol for quite a while (I have alot of 16oz bottles stocked up) so I'm gonna pour 8 oz of alcohol in a gallon and see how that does me.I usually do throw in some alcohol in the winter time just in case. We don't see temps that low very often in st louis, on top of snow we are supposed to get here. so there ya have it if ya find yourself with a tank full of summer washer fluid or just have a bunch around throw in some alcohol and wash away the winter nasty from your windshield.
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Basically my AC isn't cooling as much as it should..is it necessary when replacing the compressor to also replace the "dryer" and the other component which escapes me at the time...I think it's the "evaporator"
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2008 Ford ranger 4x4 fx4. Rear brakes drag just enough to notice, only when temp out side is below freezing. Replaced drums and shoes. stopped using emergency brake. Had wheel cylinders inspected.
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2004 F-150 heritage : 12 degrees F yesterday. clicked (firewall solenoid) but starter was not pulling amps. After putting a jumper pack on it, after about 30-40 clicks it took off, never to work again.....towed it home with a rope.
2000 F-250 Super Duty : 7 degrees F today, did the same except you could tell the starter was pulling amps. Took a lot of clicks and engaged but I let off too quick, another bunch of clicks and it started. Once I moved it, I tried it a bunch more and it seemed to work, however I do not trust it.
2001 Crown Victoria : 7 degrees F today, the first turn of the key was nothing but a click, and the 2nd turn it worked fine. After moving it worked a bunch more times.
Whats up with the cold temps and the starters?
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Mighty afraid evaporator is leaking. Is it a much difficult to replace as all other vehicles? Does dash have to come out to fix?
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Know it's fairly common for AC air to smell moldy, due to moisture on the evaporator. What brand of disinfectant spray Volkswagen uses to spray into the cowl vents? I've heard that some manufacturers use Ultra Shield, and some sites say Lysol spray is okay, too. Just wondered if VW uses something else.
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