I have a 2005 f-350 4x4 with a 6.0 power stroke now it's been causing me problems to the fact I couldn't find the problem the truck would smell like an electrical fire but last night I found that the belt is slipping on the seized a/c pulley but I can still spin the center clutch so can I just replace the clutch assembly? Or bypass the a/c so I can drive for the time being?
View 1 Replies2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
i replaced my a/c compressor on my 2006 f-250 2 yrs ago but had not refilled with r134..only the pag oil. Now i decide to refill seeing my wife uses the truck and compressor would not engage, i was able to bypass it by removing relay and jumping it with a paperclip. Compressor started up but seems to have seized on pully. the pulley seems fine and still turning freely. I can no longer turn it manually when truck is stopped and i could before i jumped it. could the clutch only be replaced or does the bearing and pulley have to be replaced
View 10 RepliesI have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.4. Couple days ago my idler tensioner pulley or whatever its called seized up and took the belt out with it. I got a pulley that resembles it from Autozone mind you that it was the only parts store that had one in stock even Hyundai didnt have the part. The only difference is the hole size for the bolt is about 1/4 inch bigger then the stock pulley. Is there any chance I can get a spacer and make up for the difference?
View 6 RepliesOne of my belts squeaks. I've tightened one of them as far as it goes I think. The other one is the one with the alternator. Do I tighten the pulley bolt on the alternator to add tension to that one?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a used F-350 that was being used by a fire department. They did something to the wiring to where most of the electronics won't work unless the key is in the "ON" position. When I open the doors, the dome light doesn't come on, nor does it come on with the IC dimmer switch, when I turn the key either backwards or to the "ACC" position the radio won't work, the headlights DO work but I don't get the warning chime when I open the door with them on.
The flash-to-pass works, as do the hazards and the turn signals (which seems odd -- I don't recall having a car where the turn signals worked without the car being on). With they key on, everything works including the dome light and the door chime. Is there some simple thing they could have done that would make it work this way and is easily reversed?
2005 Super Duty 350. Getting ready to get my truck DOT-ed and I noticed the front amber side marker and parking lamps are not working (both in the headlight assembly). There is a fuse called "exterior lamps" that I believe these are on, the fuse is fine and all the rest of the exterior lamps on the truck work fine (all other markers, clearance lights and I.D. lamps on that same all inclusive circuit). Is there a special relay or something else I'm missing for these four front bulbs?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 F-150 with a 4.6. I have a sequel and I believe it is the belt tensioner pulley and / or the idler pulley above it. Looking for proper procedure to change one or both. It is pretty tight in there. How much stuff do I have to remove to get in there. Should I replace both pulleys at the same time.
View 2 RepliesMy air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
In a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
07 f250 I just replaced the power steering pump. I put the serpentine belt back on and when I started my truck I now have a squeaking noise. It's driving me nuts and the more I push the pedal it gets alil louder. Now before I did the ps pump I did hear a little noise like of bearings squeaking when I put my ear to grill.... I put the old ps pump pulley on the new pump but I don't think that is it because it is pressed on. Would it be a bad idler/tension pully? Is it just a coincidence after I do ps pump that it now decides to squeak?
View 10 RepliesBeen trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
View 13 RepliesAfter finally identifying a bad serpentine belt tensioner for being the the culprit for my engine noises, my mechanic said that the 'thru-bolt' is siezed. Since the replacement job was at my budget limit he said he doesnt want to get into it in fear that he has to brake the bolt and drill it out (requiring 2-3x more labor cost according to him).
If this is the case, and the 'thru-bolt' is seized, is this in any way something I can make a an effort to tackle? I have a jack and jack stands, and plenty of time.
So, I somehow ended up with a hole in my oil pan. Long story short: water pump seized which shredded the serpentine belt. Had the car towed to the dealer. They found the hole in the oil pan. Pretty sure it wasn't there prior to the tow, and unfortunately I didn't watch the driver unload the car when we got there. Both tow company and dealer have just shrugged their shoulders on it.
I let the dealer replace the water pump because it's not something I was interested in tackling with everything that needs to be moved out of the way to get to it. However, I towed the car home myself (flatbed carrier from U-haul) to do the oil pan. I just got
My ball bearing on the tensioner seized and broke the belt. Does that happen all the time?? My car is a CP and right now it's only 36k miles..
View 24 RepliesNoticed a burnt rubber smell while driving today. Stopped at a gas station and before I could get around to the other side of the truck, a guy stopped and told me there was smoke coming from the passenger rear wheel well. The truck seemed to run and drive fine. Didn't seem to be any noticeable drag, but once I got home I felt that wheel and it was a bit warmer than the others.
My parking brake pedal is all the way out and pulling on the release doesn't seem to relieve any pressure or "Pop" like it normally would if releasing the brake. We've got a good downpour of freezing rain right now and I'm not able to start pulling things apart. Anything easy I can try for now? Pretty sure it's seized by the way it's acting but I really don't use the parking brake. Auto trans and I live in a really flat area.
I have a 2001 Subaru Forester which has 165K miles. I had the timing belt changed at 105K per maintenance recommendations. I had the car in for service recently for brake pads, etc., and the dealer recommended replacing the drive belt for the AC.. which I did. 100 miles after this service, the car broke down unexpectedly. The dealer told us the AC compressor seized up... and this caused the drive belt to get caught on it and be shredded ... and with that, the sudden resistance from the drive belt on the crankshaft pulley caused the timing belt to slip out of sync and damage the interference design engine. Can that really happen? I surprised that this happened a few days after replacing a drive belt and wondered if somehow the service work done with the drive belt could have caused the problem. The dealer states the service work did not cause the problem. Is my recent service and damaged engine a coincidence as the dealer said or are they related?
View 3 RepliesI purchased a new 2000 mazda b4000 2 weeks ago and the belt was squeaking and I knew I had to change the water pump so I replaced it and the squeaking didn't went away... I thought maybe my idler pulley bearing was worn out cause I could see it wobble back and fourth when the engine was running... Replaced it, still squeaking! Change my belt still squeaking! look further turns out my power steering pulley wobbles slightly. I'm thinking about trying a gator back belt and see if the squeaking goes away. Could it be dangerous to run the truck as it with a slight misalignment in the power steering pulley? or it'll be a must replacement asap?
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased an '08 F-350 4x4 Lariet Supercab 6.4l and was told by the 3rd party inspection that it needs rear brake pads (2mm left). Are the caliper pistons retractable without having the pistons seize down the road? HOw about the fronts? See below.
I ask as on my '06 F-250 XLT 4x2 5.4l the rear calipers seized without even doing a pad change and the fronts seized about 100 miles after a pad change. Come to find out it is a common problem with the '06 and the calipers either have to be replaced or rebuilt when changing pads. Now I've been "told" to expect the same with the '08.
I have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
It has developed a weird squeaky belt or pulley sound. It starts after few seconds of start up and goes away after driving few kms. It also goes away immediately for few kms. When I spray WD-40 on generator/alternator. Once in a while the sound decreases by itself and goes away only when I press the gas pedal and comes back during idling/braking. The belt is almost like a new. The car drives great without any issue.
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