Ford A/C :: 2005 F250 - EATC Outside Temp Doesn't Update
Feb 25, 2010
I have '05 F250 King Ranch with EATC. I outside air temp doesn't update, it remains constant at the initial reading at start up. I have run the self test routine and the fault detect routine with no problems identified. The funny part is that after exiting the self test routines the outside temp seems to update normally, but after an ignition off time the problem returns. All other parts of the ETAC seem to be functioning normally.
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I washed the car yesterday and the temperature reading on the AC display was reading really low a couple of hours after washing (outside temp 95, reading 79). it stayed that way for 20 minutes then only went up 3 degrees.
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My buddy's '05 will not blow out of the dash vents, you can make the a/c blow out the defrost or the floor but no dash. Vacuum pump is working great, rarely ever kicks on and doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere in the system that I can tell yet. Pulling a vacuum on the red line will make it start blowing out the vents so the door is functioning.
I thought maybe I had narrowed it down to the ATC solenoid and manifold (Ford part #5c3z-19d611-aa) not working properly but found that the F-150 guys having problems with the o-rings on the back of the control head. Seems they replace the 4 o-rings and all is well, cheap easy fix. Are the units on the diesel set up that way too?
A quick search for EATC problems on the diesels didn't bring up much, seems they don't tend to fail. He's wanting to sell it and asked if I could try and fix the problem. It's been about a year since I last looked at it, so my recollection might be a bit foggy.
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I have a 2005 f250 super duty turbo diesel 6.0 automatic. The problem I'm having is, when I engage the tow/haul button the transmission doesn't down shift unless I feather the pedal. Also the engine will overheat at times. I've replaced the thermostat, but that's all so far.
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How I can update the navigation system on my Avalon? I know I will need a DVD for the update, but I'm unsure of version I can get that will work for my car.
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I recently purchased a 2003 Grnd Marquis that has EATC climate control. It was a cold day, snowing some and the heater was set to 72 degrees on floor/defrost mix. Several days later it warmed up to over 40 degrees so I decided to try the AC. When I switched over to Max AC, I still only got airflow through the defrost. Any airflow setting (floor, vent, AC, Max AC) only gets airflow through the defrost. Also, the AC clutch did not engage when I set it on Max AC or it is not engaged when set on defrost. Will replacing the EATC head unit fix it? Is this also why the AC compressor clutch does not engage?
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In my '06 diesel with climate control I'm trying to figure out why it won't blow cold air and went to the internet to get the procedure to run the EATC diagnostics. Thing is, it wont run. I have the later EATC that has symbols on the face, not words. With the truck on and climate control OFF, I've tried pressing each button together with OFF, followed within 2 seconds by AUTO and it just turns on.
Specifically the lower vent symbol plus OFF followed by AUTO and the defrost symbol plus OFF, followed by the AUTO button. Is there something I'm missing or doing wrong? Also, is there a vacuum function controlled by the aux vacuum pump and valves found on the diesel trucks that could cause this malfunction?
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Don't know how to increase the brightness of the interior clock/temp display. Mine is fairly dim and doesn't seem to be adjustable in the instrument settings anywhere.
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I have a 2004 3.0 V6. The dash temperature gauge doesn't move just sits at the bottom 50C. (Canadian metric)...
I would like to locate the sender for the gauge to do a little testing. I removed a whack of plastic but nothing was obvious.
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I just got this 2006 F250 with a 6.0 diesel in January. Didn't check the AC until now. It doesn't work, not even cool air. I borrowed a gauge set. The static pressure in the system was 95 psi (77 F outside). I started the truck 1500 RPM with AC Max blower high, windows down. When the AC pump would run it would draw the low side down below about 20 and the high side pressure would go to about 150 before the pump would kick out (about 1 second pumping). It looked like it was low on refrigerant. Easy fix, WRONG.
I started adding a can of 134a (12 oz)with dye, to the system. The can got cold, and was going into the system, but the low side readings weren't going anywhere, the pump was still cutting off on low pressure. Still about a 1 second pump run time. The high side pressure were going up fast. After the can was in the high side pressure was going up to about 450. The low side would creep upto about 65 and when the pump would kick in it would draw it way down to maybe 30. Still very short pump times. I don't think the air ever came out of the vents even cool.
I got cold feet about the high side pressure and lowered the charge on the system. The new static pressure is 115.
Did I overcharge the system too fast? Does the system have to run for a while after a charge for the high side pressure to drop? It seems to me like there is a blockage causing the low side to be too low and the high side to be too high. Will air in the system cause this? What next?
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From time to time, climate control will stop working. Buttons are not lit up or responsive, fans do not work, and computer doesn't show outside temperature. Problem can last a day, an hour, 10 minutes, or any other time frame. Most of the time once it stops working it will not start working until left parked and locked overnight. Sometimes when we start driving it would all of a sudden start working on its own. This has happened during multiple seasons and multiple weather conditions.
I took the car to Lexus dealer who decided it would be a smart idea to replace the whole climate control unit in the dash, well this past weekend the problem occurred again with brand new climate control unit in place.
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I Have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is running rough and the windows stopped working and the temp gauge doesn't rise. Would this be do to a bad/failing alternator or something else?
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I just picked up a Black 20th tonight. All stock with 48,000 miles. I'll get some pics up asap. But for now I'm gonna be lurking around trying to work out the kinks of the car. The Temp gauge doesn't work and the passenger door only opens from the inside when first unlocked.
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I've been noticing lately that my a/c isn't what it used to be. Truck has about almost 90k miles. For the last year or so its been doing a lot of sitting but then within the last few months I've been on some long trips towing a trailer, often in 100+ degree temps.
On these trips the a/c sometimes isn't quite cold enough to keep the cab at a comfortable temp. I find my self putting it on Max AC setting more and more, which I've never had to do before. A lot of times it seem to be related to the outside temps and as I'm driving and notice the ac warming a bit, I will look up and see that its 100+ outside. Then other times it can be really hot outside and the ac is working fine, or vice versa. I noticed that it seems to happen when the engine is under heavy load as well.. 2001 F250
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Have 2015, F350 with the navigation setup. Now gps map is three years old. Won't have truck manuals for couple more days. How, where, & how much to get newest info on memory card? Or, is it better to get a 5-7" Garmin with lifetime maps etc.
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I have a problem on my F250 4x4. The 4x4 doesn't engage from inside. I tested for vacuum on the pipe that leads out of the solenoid. There seems to be no vacuum building on the outlet line. This is the line that go to the wheels. Is my solenoid stuffed. the pump works well and vents do not default to defrost.
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My truck doesn't want to go grab parking!! The shifter has a lot of play, Every time I go to park my truck I have to forcefully hold the shifter up into parking so it can grab. I had times when the shifter its in parking and it will still move, like I've gotten out and pushed it and it moves.
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2004 ford f250 superduty v10, truck has a cold run miss, no matter the temp. (0deg. or 100 deg.) when i start truck it misses for about a mile or so until temp. rises, after that it runs fine all day even if i park it for a few hours,next day same thing. I have changed all 10 plugs, gas filter, air filter, cleaned mpf censer, throttle body. Also it shows no codes, and there are no codes in history.
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I'm wanting to update my door panels to the 2008 or 2011. I know I can change out the center console but I'm not sure what years work. The bottoms of my doors are rusted out and I believe it makes more sense to buy the doors than repair them. I would love to know if the newer model SD's are the same design as the pre-2008s.
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95 ford f250 with 5.8l. I have currently replaced the battery, alternator, distributor, cap, rotor, icm, coil, plugs, wires, act sensor, ect sensor, fuel pump, fuel press regulator. I got it to start today by messing with timing at distributor it ran to operating temp and died. Would crank but not start.. So I replaced the act tensor today.. Now it still won't start... koeo test gives code 327... I am stumped and about to tow it away...
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2001 f250 5.4L v8. Engine temp seems really low. The gauge is reading barely above the cold in normal range. The heater is only blowing out 75 degree air at the warmest. It gets to its normal temperature with in 15 minutes even when its real cold out. I live in Minnesota and its been a really cold winter so having hot heat would be nice. I just bought this truck at the beginning of the winter. Whats going on?
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