My 6.0 is cooling poorly . Clutch is engaging , condenser free of obstructions, static charge L95 , H. 105. Running psi at 94 ambient is 50 and 225. This morning with cooler ambient in mid 70's it was 40 and 200. I'm thinking compressor .
View 9 RepliesI have an 05 Prius with 53k miles and the ac just recently stopped working. The blower fan still comes on, but neither the compressor nor condenser cooling fan will come on. I've checked the fuses and relays, and they check out ok. I'm hoping there may be one I missed? It just stopped working with no warning signs. What could be causing this? If the compressor was bad, the condenser fan would still work, right? I'm fearing it's the ac inverter. Do the symptoms match?
View 9 RepliesI just brought home an 04 F350. It is a V10, 6 speed, with 30,600 verified miles on it. It runs and drives fantastic, and that V10 is impressive! I am very impressed. I have noticed that the compressor cycles, even with the dial in the off position. Is this normal for the super duty, or is something amiss? If something is wrong, what direction do I look in?
View 13 Replies2007 Ford F150 half-ton. No cooling of air at the outlet of the ductwork. Freon charge is good, I watched the tech pull the system down and hold it for the prescribed time period. Compressor will not start. I am being told that this means a failed compressor, but I am of the idea that the pressure switch for low pressure must have failed, or the orifice is stopped up. I am also being told that the compressor, evaporator, and orifice tube needs replaced in order to remedy this issue. The counter man at my local parts house cannot find in his computer any pressure switches, kinda making me think that everything is in the unit. In short, if I can avoid buying the compressor, I would like to.
View 6 RepliesI am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
View 2 RepliesHere is the issue i am having. 2011 F-350 King ranch with all bells and whistles. In Arizona now we are in the season that the weather is cold in the AM and sometimes hot enough in the late afternoon to need the A/C in the truck. with the settings on Auto which i normally do, and the external temp reading in the 80s, and the internal thermostat set at 70 or lower, the A/C compressor will not engage and allow for cooling the cab of the truck. But sometimes it will work just fine. I am assuming there is a temp sensor for cabin temperature. Where that is located. or will i have to change out the entire Climate Control Module. I would take it in to have it checked out but it is an intermittent problem, and i cant not have my truck for a couple of days while they try and figure it out.
View 13 RepliesMy daughter has a 02 stang with the 3.8 . the other day she complained that her ac was not cooling so i put my gauges on it and checked the freon. the compressor was on and the low side showed about 35 and high side was about 225. it was cooling good, now today it was not cooling at all and the compressor was not on so i jumped the pressure switch on the dryer and it came on, pulled the jumper and plugged it back in and compressor came back on and started cooling. I might have a bad pressure switch also about the pressures could the orfice tube be getting stopped up. this car must have had ac problems before with the previous owner because someone has wired the ac clutch 12v+ wire to the outlet side of the pressure switch and the 12v- side to a ground screw.
View 1 RepliesI recently put in a new compressor and accumulator. I didn't change the orifice tube since it is almost impossible to get to. I added freon and oil with dye and it would work fine sporadically sometimes it wouldn't get cold at all other times it would be freezing. This lasted about a week. I noticed that when it was hot the clutch was engaging fully but I felt the pipe near the firewall and it wasn't cold as if the compressor wasn't compressing and then it would start compressing and it would get cold. The compressor sounds different when it was making the car cold. This led me to rule out a problem in the air control doors. Now there seems to be a leak which is bad since it runs out almost immediately. The problem is finding it since there isn't any oil residue or freon dye where I can see.
(Looking for some shortcuts where I don't have to remove the vacuum brake, brake booster to change the orifice tube?)
03 Santa Fe, 2.7 L engine. No cooling happening. Compressor not running. Jumpered both sides of the triple pressure switch. Jumpering Low/high side resulted in slight increase in engine rpm, Jumpering medium side and something turned on (didn't get a chance to investigate) but still no clutch operation on compressor. Wondering what to try next other than disconnecting and dropping compressor ?? Checked AC relay on the bench and the coil operates and contacts close, so that's good. Also10A fuse before relay contacts is OK.
View 12 RepliesWe have a 2003 Nissan frontier pickup (automatic).The AC recently stopped cooling, but the fan works. It was cooling perfectly great when all of a sudden, it stopped. If we turn the AC on, the compressor (I'm guessing) starts to click and continues to click until turned off. (started to grind under hood). It's not a rattle, definitely a click as if it wants to turn on but can't make the electrical connection. It kind of sounds like when a starter has gone bad and it clicks. Except, it does it repetitively until turned off. This doesn't happen if we turn on the fan but leave the AC off. Does it sound like the compressor went out? How can we troubleshoot it?
View 19 RepliesI have a 98 Grand am with the 2.5 and recently noticed first that the a/c compressor wasn't coming on. It had freon added recently and did okay for a few days,then no compressor coming on again. (It still has freon) Then I noticed that the engine cooling fan was running as long as the engine is running on cold or hot engine with heat controls off (I know the compressor runs when on on defrost position as well as a/c). I thought the 2 problems may be related? I found 5 relays at R/F strut tower and the 3rd relay cut off the fan,so I swapped some of the relays, but made no difference.The fan only quits when I turn the engine off, and I can't get the a/c compressor to come. I don't if I have 2 seperate problems or not. Could it be the PCM?
View 1 RepliesThe issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
View 1 RepliesHave an issue with my front air con not working.....
When you start the car there is a rattle/squeaking noise, this sounds like a worn pulley, when you press the air con button to turn it on the noise stops. It does not make any sound changes to the unit/engine to indicate the compressor engages and the is no cooling from the unit.....
Is it a new compressor or is there a common fix for this issue?
Other than lack of cooling ,will a failed ac compressor on a 2006 Volkswagen Beetle cause other issues if not repaired? it is a convertible.
View 1 RepliesCooling Fans and a/c compressor not working-2000 Grand Prix. They both work when I jumper them. Replaced coolant temperature sensor, checked fuses and relays -all good. Not sure what to troubleshoot from here.
View 4 RepliesA/C takes a long time to start cooling, but after it starts it gets as cold as it should. Seems to do okay while highway driving after it starts cooling. Is this a low refrig problem or do I have bigger issues?
View 3 Replies99 lumina. Ac was not working. I added a few oz's and the compressor clicked on but cooling fans were not running. After 10 min of idling the fans did come on but went off after 1-2 minutes. It seemed like they were responding to coolant temp more than ac pressure. Do the fans run when the hi pressure rises to a certain point where the computer will turn on fans?
View 7 RepliesI have an 02 F350 7.3 ... I just installed my glowshift tripple gauge pillar set. I have an EGT, Boost and fuel pressure gauge ... I followed all the constructions on installing them. The boost is working just fine and the EGT was too, but after a while the needle started going back and forth and the red warning light what blinking and then it just sat at 0 with the warning light on and stay that way. My fuel pressure gauge is connected to a sensore i put in my fuel filter housing, my fuel pressure gayge right from the start stayed at 30 psi with the red warning light on and just stays there .... Also the buttons to change the color and set the peak on the EGT gauge are sticking for some reason and staying down and aren't letting me change the color ...
View 12 RepliesI have a 2005 6.0 f350 lariat... My climate control doesn't switch very well I can get it to go to floor sometimes after 15min of pressing the button. The vacuum pump is good the tank has no cracks. I feel that the system is either plugged up or has a leak. I cleaned the tank after my hub seals went and it sucked a ton of dust and dirt through my wheel bearings in to the tank. Is the vacuum switching part of the digital display? Or is there a separate part?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 F350 with 6.8L V10 with 135k on it. I bought the truck 2 months ago and have started fixing things slowly on it. It has started to get warm here in NY so it is time to get the AC working. I started out with fresh parts. New AC compressor loaded with clutch, New receiver/dryer, new orifice tube. removed old compressor which was completely missing the clutch on the compressor, pulley spun but the shaft is locked up. i installed all the new components and went to test the system to make sure the compressor clutch would work. There is NO R134a in the system, again wanted to make sure clutch would work before spending the money on putting the refrigerant in to the system.
I jumped the 2 pressure switches to fool the system into thinking that there was refrigerant, and no lock up, no power at the connector. i tried removing the jumper from the lower sensor, pluging it back in, leaving the upper jumped, and same result. i then swapped the jumpers again. no jumper on top, jumper on bottom. no dice. i check both sensor connectors and they both have power going to the sensors. I have checked the fuse in the fuse box in the cabin and everything is fine there, i have the proper 12v in and out of the fuse. i have checked the what i believe to be the WOT relay in the engine bay on driver side fire wall and wiring seems correct there.
I have tried to find information on the diode that is in the circuit but have pretty much found that either the fuses will blow or it should work. i could not find too much information on it honestly. Everything i found was relating to F150s or explorers. I am going to a friends shop tomorrow to vacuum and fill the system..
I purchased an 89 F350 460 EFI factory air. The air worked fine for the first 6 hour on the drive home then It just stopped blowing cold. When I got home I saw the air gap on the clutch was quite wide so I took the washers out, still was too wide. I could only get the clutch to pull in if I tapped it in by hand and it only stayed in for a short time. This was all last fall.
Today I replaced the clutch, compressor and drier, took it in and had it charged. They replaced the pressure switch because the compressor cycle on and off. Even after replacing the switch it still cycles on and off and I still have no air! They removed some of the charge but still no air. The clutch pulls in and runs for 2 sec every 15- 20 seconds. I assume the reason it cycles is a high pressure. What should I be looking at now?????