Ford A/C :: 2003 - Navigator A/C Clutch Started Making Noise?


May 18, 2010

Here is what happened. I bought the truck used a few years back. The A/C clutch always made a clunking noise when it engaged first thing in the morning but then when restarting later in the day no noise. No noise either once it started up, the compressor ran quietly.

Then I recently went camping, it was just this past weekend and we had a bunch of rain. So I had on the front defrost mode on the heater for the windshield. I let the truck idle for about 15 minutes. The wife noticed that the truck was overheating (I have a Taurus fan installed and the fuse blew on the controller thats another story for another time, I got that fixed. I think it was because the clutch was trying to engage but couldnt and it made the fan controller overheat and the fuse blew) So I popped the hood and it was smoking under the hood. So I turned off the defroster and hear some noise under the hood. The AC clutch was not engaging when on the defroster mode and is making a clunking/grinding noises all the time now.

When I returned home I checked the fuse for the AC clutch and it was blown. So I replaced the fuse and it engaged the clutch by turning on the A/C, the clutch engaged and the compressor sounded fine and the clunking noise went away, it also blew cold air all the time the A/C was on, with this it looks like the compressor is fine.

Then I tried the defroster setting again to simulate what had happened at the campground and the clutch was engaging at first then started to slip and I could smell it burning. So I shut it off. The A/C clutch is still making a clunking /grinding noise noise and wont engage at all now even when turning on the AC.

So for a second opinion from all of you, does it look like I can get away with just replacing the clutch assembly? Also does the clutch assembly come with the new magnet, bearing, and plate?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: AC / Clutch Bearing Making Noise - New Starter And Still Won't Start

I have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.

If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Oil Light Is On / Gauge Dropped To Below L / Engine Started Making Noise

I drive a 2001 Ford F150 4.6L , Miles at 175,000+ (a little more but no more than 176k)

Situation as it happened : Driving home from work for lunch, about halfway home I notice that my Oil Light is on and the Gauge has dropped to below the "L." Engine started making noise, best I can compare it to is to the sound of a diesel engine when it's idle. Immediately pull over after noticing this, shut off engine for about 5 mins, check oil, oil is fine. Turn truck back on, light is off, gauge is normal, and noise isn't as loud as it was before. Drive rest of the way home no problem. After deciding on driving the truck back to work (I know i shouldn't have but I have no other means of transportation, and I work at Autozone so I wanted one of my managers there to check it out) I turn on engine, everything is fine, no oil light, gauge is in the middle of the "H" and "L", only thing wrong was the engine noise, except like earlier it wasn't too loud or shaking the truck. About halfway to work, I come to a stop sign, Oil gauge shoots down below the "L" and the oil light come on.

As soon as that happens engine starts making same loud noise as before (diesel truck idling.) I push the gas to get past the stop sign, and instantly truck loses power in pedal and just shuts off. Make it to side of road, hasn't turned on since. Never had any problems with the truck since I bought it 5 months ago, changed the oil 1 time about 2 months after I bought it. I'm just hoping my engine hasn't seized up on me.

Not sure if this matters, but about 4 days prior to this, truck was making a rattling noise, almost like shaking a can of paint , under the front drivers side, in the suspension. Was told those were probably due to my sway bar link bushings being busted.

After some research on here and other websites as well, I have come to find out that this is pretty common in most Fords? Most people recommend changing the oil pressure switch, and others say it could be the oil pump? Was planning on changing out Oil Pressure Switch, and changing the oil filter/oil , and fuel filter as well. Not sure what else I could do?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Passenger Side Brake Started Making A Grinding Noise

I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).

This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.

Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.

I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?

Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).

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