Ford A/C :: 2003 F250 - Clutch Clicks Out Every Now And Then And Blows Warm
Oct 23, 2010
My AC has been acting up. It blows real cold most of the time, but every now and then the clutch kicks out (even at highway speeds), and it blows warm. If I accelerate, the clutch engages, and it blows cold again. If I decelerate, it stays disengaged. At idle, it will do the same, sometimes cold, sometimes no clutch. I added a can of 134 last week, didn't make a difference. I hooked up the manifold gauges today, and the low side was 45psi, the high side was 160psi. I let a little freon out of the system until the low side read 35psi, but the high side went down to 150psi. If I'm correct, the low side should be between 30 - 40, the high side 225 - 250? Why I'm seeing 35 and 150???
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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I need to diagnose a heat problem. I have a 2001 F150 XL. 4.2L Manual controls. The a/c blows nice and cold, but when you put the heat on its not really hot, blows warm air. I changed the blend door actuator,it got a little warmer. Now that winter is around the corner need to figure it out and fix it. The thermostat, water pump, and coolant flushed before I bought it. Could it be the blend door itself, or is there another actuator I'm missing.
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I have an '03 Camry XLE with V6 engine, which I bought used later last year. The automatic climate control AC was standard with this vehicle. But when I turn on the AC, the light on the AC button blinks on and off, and it blows warm air. The first thing that I did was check the under-the-hood fuse box, which is where the manual shows a 10 amp fuse for the AC. PROBLEM...there is no 10 amp fuse where it should be, but to make matters worse, there is an empty slot with no contacts to accept a fuse as well. The fuse box cover shows that there should be a fuse at that location as well, but there is none.
A lack of info about relays in both the cars manual as well as the Chilton repair manual, accompanied by the fact that there is no fuse where the manual and fuse box cover says that there SHOULD be a fuse for the AC is what caused the confusion. The AC relay is called the "magnetic clutch relay"...why, I don't know. But I swapped that relay with a similar one that I know was working and the AC works fine. The new relay is about $14, and there is no fuse because there should be no fuse...the relay does the trick, I guess. Anyway, problem solved.
APPARENTLY, some things must get lost in the translation. The car's manual shows TWO fuses labeled HTR, or heater...yet describes them as being for the air conditioning system. Case closed?
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The air coming out the right front vents is cold; but, the air coming out the left front vents (driver's side) is warm. Sliding left ac slider switch up and down did no good. Considered fuse, but both left and right AC controls run through same fuse. Suspect bad motor for left side plenum duct, or bad connection, or faulty vacuum at motor (if motor is vacuum actuated). Considering removing dash cover to see if I can find the motor, but not sure how to remove dash cover, or even if that's the way to find the motor.
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I have a 2003 f250 xlt with the 5.4l engine in it and lately my AC hasn't been standing up to the heat of the Midwest. When driving around town or on the highway my AC blows really cold but at idle you can tell a drop off in temp. Is this normal due to extreme heat or is there something I can do?
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Recently got a 2003 f 250 6.0 that has had a little work done on it. Absolutely love it with 1 exception. When I turn on the ac or heat It blows a 10 amp fuse that goes to the blower relay. It was occasionally now it's all the time.Blower ok, fan speed resistor ok. What or where to look.
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It seems the local dealership has finally figured out why the rear ac blows warm while the front blows cold. It only took 5 trips.
The part # comes out to F75Z19A522AA or F75Z-19A522-AA. Its listed on Tousley and other online parts outlet but so far all that I have called said it is no obsolete and they are no longer available from Ford.
Rear inlet door actuator - obsolete part? Where I can find this part (I'll even consider used)?
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Tested/checked the blend door, actuator, Low pressure cycling switch, compressor clutch and they all work. The accumulator does not condense, or at least that I've noticed. The gauge on a can of R134a reads 55 at 85 degrees outside. Anything else I can check to diagnose a problem?
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I've noticed that my X in the winter does not seem to warm up as it should. I watch the temperature gauge and notice that it barely gets to the first mark in the operating zone of the gauge. The heater blows warm air but not hot. I think its the thermostat that needs replaced because in other vehicles I would see the temp gauge rise and then drop when the thermostat opened. I've flushed the radiator and changed the fluid and not difference. I did find the heater valve on the right side was unhooked from the vacuum line and plugged it back in but no change from that being connected. Anything else I should check?
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This problem is on my son's 2000 F-250 5.4. It's into October and my son tells me he has no heat coming out of his vents. I figure it has to be the control valve that should be in the heater hose lines. Could be jammed closed or a vacuum line has come off the pot that controls the open close cycle. We open the hood and nowhere can we see a coolant control flow valve. It is so tight and dark under all that mess of wires, intake, air conditioner lines and whatever.
Just where should we be looking for the valve. Also it could be the vacuum line is unplugged on the dash, behind the warm/cool selector. And even there is a possibility that some doofus has removed something. He bought the truck this summer. So to get us on the right path, where we start looking for the flow control valve?
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I have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat with the 4.6 v8 and my engine had a piston slap so I replaced the engine with a used one and I put a new water pump on the engine. My problem is the heater does not get hot and it only gets warm when I get on the freeway and the rpms stay steady for a bit. but when i idle it just blows cool air. the heat door works cause I can turn it to cold air when I'm on the freeway and i just replaced the thermostat so I don't believe its that. It weird because the heater worked fine before I changed out the engine so i cant figure it out. the only thing i can think of is the water pump is bad out of the box. Could it be the belt or does spacing on the water pump have something to do with it. nothing is leaking.
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Here's the situation....It blows cold for about 5 mins, then the air starts to warm and stays warm. I just bought the truck 06 350 crew cab and they supposedly charged the system. I'm wondering if it has a leak but it should start out blowing warm air? I just wanted some thoughts before I start throwing money at it.
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I have a 96' Ranger 4.0 5 speed. While driving, if I put the truck under a load such as going uphill or towing, the air conditioner fades out and blows warm air. Once I start downhill the air will come back on. It is much worse when towing.
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No clutch engagement. Jumped low pressure switch, still no. Checked for power at the compressor and the high pressure switch. No power. The hps is 4 wire, what should I have for voltage? History on the system is I put a new napa compressor, dryer, orifice 1 year ago and it has been fine up to now. Where to start?
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My idle goes real fast 2500 rpm special when is warm can't get idle to go down for nothing took truck to camping on dirt road with the vibration idle came back to normal and stay for while and over the soon start again. No code...
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The front a/c blows cold air but the 2nd row and back blows warm. Yes the temp dial is on cold on both dials. Is there a separate a/c clutch that I dont know about to ck the air gap? Is there a separate port to put freon in besides the front. I need to get this fixed because with my bulldogs in the back the heat will kill them.
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2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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So, I pretty unimpressed with the air in my 2011 SC 250. I keep the climate at about 69, and seems like is work about half as good as my 2010 F150 with climate did. When idling it blows almost warm, only cools when the RPMs are up there. My F150 seemed to be the same no matter what.
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Ford crown vic, 1999, 125k miles, no engine work has been done, did flush cooling system in spring of 2013 and put in a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water (from a jug). No problems for the summer of 2013, have been using heater with no problems until around Tuesday of this week.
Car runs fine, no leaks, coolant checks out good. BUT now.. My temperature gauge hardly moves (up) and the heater blows warm air only. If I am driving the gauge will not move, if the car sits running for awhile it will move up some and the heat will get warmer inside of the car. My guess maybe a stuck thermostat?
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So the other morning I drive the 140 miles out of town to work for the week. when I pull up to the job site the cooling fans were revving really really high! never heard this before. then it went back to normal after I opened the gate and parked my truck and shut it off. I'm driving maybe 5 miles tops to the job and back to the motel every day. however that is far enough that my heater should be warming up and it's not even coming close to warm. it blows cold air. and to compound that I'm not sure the cooling fans are even working. they don't appear to be. Is there a connection here?
2011 xlt 4x4 super crew.....
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