Took truck to a mechanic he advised me that the no heat was because of high back pressure in engine...never heard of this before, is this a correct diagnosis? No heat, air blows through all vents, defrosters.
View 1 RepliesSo this has happened a few times pedal drops with no back pressure then give a bit pull it back up by hand and it's fine has happened 4 or so times in the last year. I'm reluctant to replace slave and master cylinders could it be anything else? 87 Ford F-150 hydraulic clutch
View 10 RepliesI noticed this evening that my low pressure oil pressure was much higher than normal. I have a LPOP gauge that typically reads 12 psi or so at idle This evening I was seeing 75psi with a warm engine. Every little acceleration pegged the gauge over 100psi.
The factory non-functioning gauge says that everything is normal.
I am about due for an oil change. I was thinking that I would change the oil and filter as soon as possible and temporarily plumb in my mechanical gauge to see if the high pressure reading is real or not. I replaced the stock LPOP about 3 years ago with a melling and everything has been golden up until now.
I just bought 2003 king ranch with a 5.4 it started burning coolant and the heat was coming on then while the engine was at operating temp would blow cold air. Then the temp gauge would start to rise,once it got to the top the heat would start to come on and the temp gauge would then go down to normal.I started by changing the thermostat which didn't work.
Then i figured it was air in the system I kept burping the truck at idle but it never worked, it kept burping while driving all the coolant out that i put in back out finally i took that cap off the one that clicks when you tighten it and replaced it with a cap that tightens down all the way and doesn't click. Every morning I check the reservoir fill it up to the proper level and so far so good.
I got in my 1977 f150 V8 windsor the other day and headed down the road. All of a sudden I started to hear this sound that only way I can describe it is a big log chain moving around or a box of washers being moved around. I got out, popped the hood and thought at first that it was a pulley somewhere on the front of the engine, perhaps water pump pulley or something like that. The closer I got my ear to engine though I think it is coming from the back passenger side of the engine, not the front. I could be wrong about that, but I do know it is coming from the passenger side of the engine. Sometimes it will go away for 1/4 of a mile and then come back. I also noticed that it gets faster when I give it gas and slower when I don't, which is why I was thinking it had to be one of the pulleys going bad. I'm not so sure though because I think it may be coming from the passenger back part of the engine.
View 10 RepliesI just got the F150 ext cab 5.4 auto 235000 miles, and there is no heat and the fan only work on high. I am also changing all the coils plug and injectors. The guy I got the truck from said he never chanted them. I know it is going to be fun , soak the plugs and be careful. Any thing else I should know or do???
View 5 RepliesOne of the high-pressure lines on the back of the rack, close to the exhaust, has rotted out. It was smoking as it leaked right under the exhaust pipe and burned off. The rest of the freshly filled fluid was all over the ground. I crawled under and got a good look at the high pressure line, but where to source these, and if they are even replaceable? I have not tried to remove it yet, but perhaps a shop could bend a new one as a cheap alternative to a new rack. I was also thinking of checking out the pick n pull for a line.
View 2 RepliesI just had my turbo and the EBPV on the pedestal rebuilt. Now I need to put it back into the truck. What is the procedure, if any, to adjust the EBPV? I only use the truck to haul a 5th wheel RV and the performance chip closes the EBP valve when going down steep hills -( EXHAUST BRAKE)
View 6 RepliesSo I have a non ebpv pedestal I was going to clean my sensor on the front because my mileage has went down a bit. My question is is this even worth doing since the valve is not there anymore I have got mixed answers trying to look it up some say it still affects the mileage some say it won't. I cleaned it once about 10 years ago. I have an AE also how do I test it and what should it read if I do need to clean it or replace it?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Excursion with the high pressure line leaking. My guess is that the original line had a rubber hose and was replaced with a 3/8" ID high pressure hose. My problem is that I can not get the 3/8" ID replacement hose over the second larger bulge on the line going to the radiator cooler. What am I doing wrong?
View 3 RepliesWhat are the most favorable low-side/high-side pressure readings for the AC when fully charged?
View 7 Repliesits 94 degrees outside and I take a ride then when I park the 2003 Buick lesabre v6 3800 custom , I shut it off in my driveway, then as I walked past the car I notice a rubber type high heat smell through the seam in the hood its like a combination of heater or radiator hose and belt rubber smell yet when I open the hood no leaks no extremely hot belt and the hoses just feel normal hot the car runs fine ,no noises oil is high on the mark not low on antifreeze nothing , I just got this car in the early spring and never noticed it until now mid Summer high heat weather .is this normal?
View 7 RepliesMy 03' 6.0l hpop only makes about 1700 psi at wot, at hot idle the ipr is 25.1 and the icp is about 580. It runs pretty good but it seems the crank time to start is getting a little longer sometimes, other times it fires right up. It makes no difference if its hot or cold. Do pumps get weak or do you think I have a leak?....
View 1 RepliesI just replaced my injector cups a month or so ago and also injectors with some lower mile injectors. but now 3 weeks later still not getting any pressure at icp. I have dead headed pump got 3k plus but when i block off ether head i get no pressure. i have pulled injectors and checked for orings and they are fine...
View 2 RepliesI've found everything there is to know about disconnecting the high pressure oil STC line from the oil rail on the early 6.0's, but I can't find anything about reconnecting them. Do you simply press it back on? Should there be an audible "click"?
View 14 Replies'99 7.3, 258k miles, looses oil fast, oil found in coolant (though not a lot) and the fuel bowl is full of oil.
I re-ringed the oil cooler. Most of the coolant and oil is drained. The HPOP holds its oil level and does not leak down.
Someone shared the below test. Though it says #4 ORB, the actual thread on my IPR is #8. I removed the IPR and threaded in the #8ORB to air hose adapter. I regulated the pressure to 20 psi. The air is rushing out of the CCV.
I suspect I am missing something in the below test and that I'm pushing air back through the low pressure oil pump and into the crank case.
The test shared with me elsewhere:
Apparently someone named "Cody" on the forum did a test and it was labeled that way.
AIR TESTING THE HPO SYSTEM:
7.3L Powerstroke engines may experience hard start and or no start issues. In some cases the no-start issue may occur only with the engine hot. If the observed ICP pressure during cranking is less than the required 500 PSI, then the problem is in the high pressure oil system.
One of the first checks that should be made is to remove the plug from the top of the high pressure oil reservoir (in front of the fuel filter) to observe if the reservoir is full. If the oil is standing within an inch of the top of the reservoir, then the problem is in the high pressure oil system and could be caused by one of three things:
- The high pressure oil pump itself
- The IPR Valve
- A high pressure oil leak
Tools: Adaptor ORB #4, Air Compressor capable of maintaining 90-100 psig, Air Line Adaptors which will allow connection to the #4 OBR , IPR Test Harness, Grease Gun Whip or any whip with a .0625" NPT.
Remove the IPR valve and insert the ORB #4 Adaptor. Attach Shop Air and pressurize the system. Wait for approximately 30 - 60 Seconds while the air travels throughout the HPO System. Listen for air escaping through the Oil Fill Tube (cap removed).
External high pressure oil leaks would have, of course, been obvious. The primary concern is internal leaks under the valve cover(s). These could include leaking injector O-rings, or leaking injectors. Listen for any air escaping under the valve covers and correct if present.
If the center injector O-ring has failed, high pressure oil may be forced into the fuel system. Remove the fuel filter cap and observe for air bubbles in the fuel. If necessary, individual fuel lines running from the fuel filter assembly to the cylinder heads can be disconnected in order to isolate the problem to which side it is occurring.
2. 7.3L: If no air leaks are observed, the next step is to isolate whether the problem is with the IPR or the high pressure oil pump. Remove the IDM fuse or unplug the IDM or injector connectors at the valve covers to prevent starting.
3. If this test does not assist in diagnosing the issue, remove both valve covers and witness oil from the deflectors as being uniform, look closely at the injector base for any sign of air or oil escaping during test. This is an indication of a loose injector or O-Ring failure.
The same can be done at the ICP Ports (Oil Rail) on either side to determine leaking O-Rings in that Bank.
Next mods are for the fuel rail cross over and the high pressure oil cross over. I see the unused ports will come in handy.
Fuel delivery? any specialty mods to run the fuel lines? I see it's a #4 ORB fitting. Anyone ever use a "T" or a splitter off the fuel bowl to have a quad line set up?
Saw the FRx from RiffRaff .... not sure how it eliminates air from the system 7.3L Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover? (FRx) 99-03 Powerstroke
I just picked up a 78 F150 Ranger XLT with a 351M in it this past friday. I am absolutely in LOVE with her. She is a great solid truck. One issue I am having though is that she blows hot air out the vents over the hump but nothing is coming out the top of the dash. I am guessing that i will have to take the dash off and clean out the box check the door etc. What did you do to rectify?
View 3 RepliesFinally had a good scan done on my truck at the mechanics. The reoccurring codes were P0478 and P0470. It looks like a bad exhaust pressure control sensor. Looks like an easy fix.
View 14 Replies94 ford f150. I have replaced a leaking heater core and replaced all heater hoses, radiator hoses and water pump. I do not have any coolant leaks at this time. The problem is: when operating the vent or heat, there is a residual coolant smell. Is it possible that the vents were coated with coolant when it was leaking, thus still producing the smell? If so, is there anyway to clean out the vent system?
View 3 RepliesFirst background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.