Ford A/C :: 2003 E350 - Front Heater / AC Blower Motor Isn't Working
Nov 15, 2011
Recently bought a 2003 E350. The front heater/ac blower motor isn't working. I found the control switch melted and bought a new switch. Before installing it, I need to do some diagnostics. I checked the blower with a couple of jumpers ant it turns and blows. I think that leaves the blower motor resistor. Where it is on a 2003 E350? I also need to check the relay. I have a power distribution box at the front left under the hood. Is the relay there? The box is not labeled like my GM products. Which is the blower motor relay? Finally, which fuse controls the blower motor? I read it might be a 40 amp fuse. If so, that might narrow it down.
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99 Explorer Blower motor quit working. Disconnected and hot wired to a battery and blower motor worked. So I know it is in the switch and/or wiring. I need this truck everyday so going into the shop is out. Live in Northern Mn and the temp was -15 degrees. So as a temp fix what does everybody think of running a wire from the battery to a switch inside and then to the blower motor and then to a ground. Would have a inline fuse. If this will work what gauge wire and what amp fuse would you use. Its getting cold without heat.
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I got a new resistor since my last one was in a puddle of water and installed that today and still have no heater blower motor. I checked all the fuses and have power. I sent power to the blower itself and it spins good. So somewhere between the fuse and the blower it isn't working. I need to take the controls out and test for power there. Didn't have time to do that today. What wires to check or where to start trouble shooting?
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I have a 1993 E350 Econoline-based RV. The blower motor intermittently makes a horrible whirring/buzzing sound, usually if on position 3 or 4 (high). Doesn't stop until I turn the HVAC to Off. The blower motor vibrates quite a bit while making this noise (verified with my hand). The problem occurs even if the engine isn't running. This started a few years ago, and has simply gotten worse.
Since it runs OK at the lower speeds (until the problems start with the higher speeds), I think that means I can rule out something simple like debris? Also, when the engine is under load (climbing hills, etc.), the blower fan cuts out. Could that be a resistor problem, or something else?
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My 99 f150 blower motor and blinkers slowly but surely went out on me. The hazards still work. I changed the flasher relay and the relay for the blower motor, and nothing. I've checked all the fuses, and checked for wire issues and nothing.
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I've read quite a few threads on this subject and came across the resistor, fuses, and relays. I have some fundamental testing procedure questions.
1. To test the resistor, it says to back probe the brown/orange wire to check for voltage. So I'm assuming I would hook up my positive lead, here?
Do I really need to hook up the black lead all the way to the negative terminal on the battery? Just with a long extension? Or is there somewhere else I can hook the black lead to? (I know, how dumb!)
2. I downloaded owners manual, but I can't seem to find a fuse or relay specifically for the blower, so what fuse and what relay is it?
3. In the Haynes manual, it says locate the blower motor relay, in the relay box under the center dash panel, where the hell is that?
4. Do I need to remove the glove box to access the resistor and blower hosting.
5. Anything else I should know?
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I own a 99 Suburban 1500 5.7. The front blower motor stopped working on all speeds so I replaced the resistor, it still did not work. I then replaced the speed selector switch and it started working fine. Three days later I smelled a slight electrical burning smell and the fan stopped working again. I plan on replacing the switch again to see if that is what went bad. Whats causing this to happen? Maybe the motor is going bad and causing the switch to short?
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My heater fan quit working on my E 350 van. Where are the fuses for this fan. I checked under the hood all of those are fine.
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Our 03 Civic recently went into the shop for a rotor replacement and the shop did an oil change for us while they were at it. My wife got the car back and she immediately noticed that the "AC" wasn't working. After asking a few additional questions (I'm not in the same city this week), it isn't the AC that isn't working, the fan/blower isn't turning on at all. We had the same shop check it out again and their response was that they weren't anywhere near the blower motor so this just has to be a coincidence. I could accept that but I'm still worried about a scam.
The car was in the shop just to have the rotors put on, not an oil change but they did an oil change for us anyway. (I was going to change the rotors myself but I couldn't get the caliper hangers off and it was 100+ degrees outside so I decided to have the shop mess with it), Would it be easy to sabotage the blower motor on this car?
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I am not great with electrical but can manage. Here's the deal, Ihave a 1997 ford ranger 2wd 2.3L 5spd with a/c 233,000 miles i just replaced the heater blower motor resistor as the old one was rusted bad as was the pig tail going to it bad that one of the terminals broke off and was rusted in the harness so i replaced the plug as well problem is i still have no fan if i jump it it works but have no power at the plug for resistor or motor and no power at the switch inside the truck I do have power to one terminal where the relay plugs in, where to look next?
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with a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
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The car is a '99 Volvo V70 XC AWD. The blower for the heater wasn't working this morning. When I left work it was blowing a little but not as high as it should on full.
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2001 f350 blower motor for (A/C - Heater) works sometimes and sometimes does not.
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I am trying to troubleshoot why my heater blower, cruise control and info center above my rear-view mirror has stopped working. I am trying to confirm power to an orange wire next to the driver-side fuse box. I have confirmed no power at the fuses. I am hoping the problem is the wire box below the fuse box and not the ignition switch. I have a wiring diagram and the power feed to these three fuses is via an Orange wire. There are two Orange wires in the box, I am trying to determine which one feeds the fuses for these three devices. I have a picture of the fuse box.
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How hard is it to change the A/C/Heater blower motor. I know about the switch problems but this is the blower motor. I'll probably clean it out and spray something in it before I replace it but I just wondered how hard it is to get to. On another note, this 4 wheel drive Santa Fe rocks in the snow! I can't believe what good traction it has!
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I have a 2005 BMW X5 and the heater motor makes a shrill noise only when I am turning right.
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I have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
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Went to have an oil change....service rep came in with my cabin air filter and said it needed to be replaced, I told him "later" as they charge too much for a simple filter.
Two days later I had the need to run my blower on high and it vibrated rather loudly.. I tried different positions on the vent switch but nothing worked.. then it came to mind the Jiffy lube incident. I went in and pulled the cabin air filter out and saw nothing wrong there. Upon further inspection I found a piece of an acorn in the blower wheel.
Moral of this story...if you changes cabin air filter, be sure to check for any debris that may fall off the old filter into the blower wheel when it is removed.
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My blower on my 2010 Lariat truck isn't working and I can't seem to figure the issue. No heat or AC. It seems that some air is coming through, and the fan indicator shows it on high, but nothing.
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I have a Full Size 93, 5.8L Van. The blower motor has stopped working. I have checked the fuzes, ok. I have checked the Power Distrubution Box, ok. I do have power to my Aux (rear) blower. I have hot wired my blower motor, it works. I have no power to the blower motor, thermal limiter, or to the fan control switch on the dash. (Like I said, the Aux on the dash works). What else is there?
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I had to replace the vacuum control for the heater in the dash panel. The fan worked good on all 4 speed settings but only in the defrost position due to the damaged control valve. The control valve works all position for the heater positions now. There is power at both sides of the heater fuse under the dash but no blower function. Is there a fuseable link elsewhere in the system to check. Is the fan motor only accessible to test by accessing the heater/AC under the dash on the passenger side. 1973 Crew Cab....
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