Compressor seems to cycle to frequently, every 5 Seconds. Morning and Night the ac is freezing. During the Day it's cool but not cold.
Hooked up gauges and the high side is around 150 and the low side will go up to 45 and drop to 25 ( this is when the compressor engages and disengages.)
Ambient temp is just under 80. Where to go from here? 2003 Sport Trac...
My AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
My 03 Expedition A/C quit working, the compressor was cycling on and off so I took it in to be recharged thinking it was low. They said was completely out and it took 3.5lbs to recharge although they couldn't find any signs of leaking. When they recharged it they put more dye in to find the leak, the technician said he suspected a compressor since it was completely empty and had been working in the spring.
I was hoping it was a compressor as I have changed one before on my 97 Expedition and am pretty comfortable with it, however I can't see any thing leaking using a UV light. I have checked the compressor and every line I can see all the way back to the rear (it has rear air). When they recharged it worked very good for about 8 days on the 9th day it was working and went from blowing cold to hot instantly. Where or what to look for??
My 2003 F150's compressor cycles even when the a/c or defroster is not turned on. It has the climate control type of temperature system. This doesn't seem normal.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 5.4 and the A/C cycles on and off too frequently making it take too long to cool the cab. Had A/C service done this weekend and initially I thought it worked, but now a few days later, it still cycles on and off. Is this a simple relay or switch somewhere?
View 1 RepliesSo again the a/c in old green gave out. it has been an ongoing battle over the past few years, but this time I took it to a good friend who has all the right tools as our level of frustration dealing with it has peaked.
We removed everything, and got it all "new" from oh-rye-lees. a new compressor was installed a few weeks back and it worked fine, but cycled very strangely. it would rapidly kick in and out, then just stay engaged. found out the condenser was plugged up and thought maybe that was causing it.
At any rate, it now has a new compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, orifice tube, and low pressure switch. all the lines were flushed and checked.
it was vacuumed and checked, then charged with freon. The compressor is doing the exact same thing! it is cycling very strange. sometimes rapidly at higher rpm, and sometimes it works just fine. the a/c is working, but it is freezing up the drier, evaporator, and line all the way back to the compressor. vent temps are about 30.
The WOT relay and high pressure switch was replaced, and it did not make a difference. we are at a total loss.
We were told by another person that the clutch on the new compressor was too small and that was causing the issue. It measure 4.8" and we were told is is supposed to be 5.3". is there any truth to that? we just do not know what is causing this, but want to get it right as surely something will break if it stays this way.
My 2001 Expedition 5.4L sat for 2+ years and due to a new child, I put it back on the road late last fall. Last week, we had our 1st "must use AC" day and it didn't work.
I listened to see if the compressor was cycling and it never engaged. I picked up a gauge and r134a kit.
Outside temp was about 60F, I think my therm was showing 57F to be exact. When I checked the low side pressure with the engine off, the gauge reading was below 15. It made sense that the compressor wouldn't start at the pressure. I put in about a 1/2 can with the motor running A/C on max and it was showing 40, but still no compressor cycling. I then shut the motor down, let it sit for about 3 mins and restarted. This time, the compressor started to cycle, it was cycling quickly though, I'd say about every 3 seconds.
With the compressor cycling, the pressure would jump from 17 to 40. With the motor off, it would read 50. Still no cold air. I put in about 14oz of R134a.
I guess what I need to know is if I should I keep adding R134a until it stabilizes around 40, even when the compressor is cycling? Also, where should the static pressure be? It's sitting at 50 now. I've been told it should be around 80, but I'm thinking that might be dependent on outside temp.
BTW, I'm now thinking that the reason that I'm not getting cold air and the compressor keeps cycling is because I need to add a lot more R-134a. I think when the compressor starts and draws coolant, the low side pressure drops to low, causing the compressor to turn off. When the compressor cycles off, it sees the low side pressure at 40 and starts it up again causing the coolant draw and low side pressure to drop to low again. Am I right on this thought? It looks like I'll need to add another can to get the pressure to stay above 22 when the compressor is running.
One other thing... How much R-134a the system takes? I need to know because I have access to a vacuum.
I thought originally I had a leak so I tested with dual gauges I'm getting 85 psi on low and high side, which I believe is good. So I tried grounding the low sensor, then high sensor, then both, then both just pulled out and any combo possible. Still not engaging. Switched out the relay, checked fuses, still not engaging. Tried taking shim out of compressor still nothing. Jumped the relay and it will engage and air comes out cold. What should I check next?
View 8 RepliesI purchased an 89 F350 460 EFI factory air. The air worked fine for the first 6 hour on the drive home then It just stopped blowing cold. When I got home I saw the air gap on the clutch was quite wide so I took the washers out, still was too wide. I could only get the clutch to pull in if I tapped it in by hand and it only stayed in for a short time. This was all last fall.
Today I replaced the clutch, compressor and drier, took it in and had it charged. They replaced the pressure switch because the compressor cycle on and off. Even after replacing the switch it still cycles on and off and I still have no air! They removed some of the charge but still no air. The clutch pulls in and runs for 2 sec every 15- 20 seconds. I assume the reason it cycles is a high pressure. What should I be looking at now?????
I have a 2002 F250 on which the AC compressor clutch is not cycling: I have checked and added coolant so low pressure is correct (don't have high pressure gauge). I checked the clutch air gap and it is at 0.030 " as specified in another post. I replaced the low pressure AC cycling switch (on the evaporator/dryer). With the AC on, I disconnected the AC cutoff switch and the clutch disengages. This circuit has the correct (>10V) going to it. I am thinking it could have something to do with the AC relay.
When you switch the ATC to a setting other than AC or Max AC, the clutch disengages fine. I noticed this problem because the AC shuts off when it is really hot, after I have been driving for a long while, about 1 hour or more. If you shut off AC, wait a few minutes, then turn on it works fine.
He has a 96 explorer and his ac compressor clutch was cycling on and off. So he went and bought 2 20 ounce cans of 134a and proceeded to add it to the evaporator service port. Of course a lot of it sprayed out side of it as it did not fit well (duh). So he has no Idea how much he actually got in there out of the 30 or so ounces he dispensed. He is laughing at himself with me on this. He says hi ahead of time
I have access to good gauges and a reclaimer and vacuum as I work sometimes for a residential ac guru. So what to do? I was thinking the evaporator should be changed out but I want a second opinion. Then vacuum and add new 134.
So my Ac is not blowing cold at all. I can hear the compressor cycling. I filled the sys with freon. Still not cold I am pretty sure I have a leak but wouldn't it still blow cold? What do I need to check to fix this? The temps are getting in the upper 90's and 100 s I need Ac bad...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford E450 Superduty Box truck with a V10 and 70,000 miles. For the 6 years I have owned it, the AC has always been ice cold. This summer it will not blow cold under any driving situation.
When the AC is on AC, AC max, or defrost, the compressor clutch constantly engages for 1.5 seconds then disengages for 5 seconds. I bought a can of refrigerant and added only about 1/4 of it to reach proper psi for the current temperature.
If I remove either the high or low pressure switch clips, the compressor stops engaging. Is it possible that one of the switches has failed in that it is activating at an incorrect pressure? Unfortunately our local Ford dealer here is notoriously devious and while they may fix the problem, I will probably have an entirely new system by the time they are done.
I've ruled out coolant, air gap does not seem to apply and both hi and low pressure switches are active. What am I missing?
I have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla S. This was the first time in 4 years that I have had to recharge the A/C. The compressor is not cycling on and off. It is only spinning consistently. Why this is happening?
View 13 Replies2009 Accent with 103K miles, which has been good to me so far. Over the past week or so, I've noticed that when I'm driving on the highway with the A/C on, the car occasionally hesitates, maybe every minute or two. I'm guessing this is from the A/C compressor cycling on and off, but it's never done this before. Does it seem like this is the beginning of the end for the compressor? Anything else it could be?
View 1 RepliesI have a 15 amp air compressor that does a terrific job keeping my air pressures to recommended levels however it frequently blows fuses in both my 2010 Highlander and my 2006 LS 430 Lexus. It appears that a direct connection to the battery is the only recourse. Are the adapters that permit direct connection of the compressor mail cigarette connector to the battery via a female cigarette lighter connector safe and a reasonable alternative to stocking up on 15 amp fuses every time I want to top off my tire pressures?
View 18 RepliesI recently put a new clutch on (after living without AC for a year and a half!) and now the AC is on, it just doesn't cycle off and after a while the air stops blowing. I assuming this is from the coils freezing over and icing up not letting air by? What do I need to check to get it to cycle off?
View 14 Replies2003 with about 140k miles, radiator was replaced a couple years back, recently replaced timing belt (#2) and some valve cover gaskets in advance of a road trip.
On the road trip, used no cooling air, occasionally used heat at night with the roof down. At one point, I thought I heard my engine louder than normal, but decided it was actually machinery nearby.
The next morning, after only about 1 hour of leisurely driving through a civil war park for about an hour, I confirmed that in fact it was my vehicle making the noise.
It was fairly frequent, and basically sounds and feels (hand on air filter) like the blower kicking on, as if to cool the car off.
But the air temp was cool, the car temp was solid and cool, so there wasn't a good reason for this to be happening.
Because I had just had the timing belt & such done, I stopped at a dealer. The engine light came on as I pulled in.
They indicated that they saw a MAF sensor failure, and that while it needed to be replaced, it wasn't a problem to finish my road trip. They indicated the check engine light was related and also ok to drive with. They then lost a lot of credibility when they tried to ask me if perhaps the AM radio was the noise I was hearing...
Despite that, I continued on (had to be somewhere and they said it was ok to drive). The engine light actually went off the next time I filled up, so I decided perhaps that was actually a gas cap pressure issue (saw that once before in my ~6 years of driving the car).
Back at my home Toyota shop, they confirmed the MAF replacement need, and have also suggested spark plugs (fair enough).
But re: the air, they don't believe it sounds 'wrong'. I agree with that- it sounds 'right', as in when the blower kicks on, and I vaguely recall that it was something I heard back when my radiator actually rusted out / failed.
My issue is that it seems to be happening MUCH more frequently than normal.
So while I don't recall hearing it at all over the past couple years or only on very rare occasions under load, or when the radiator failed, it seems to be almost routine now, where at a given stop light (even in just a few miles of driving in town at low speeds), I'll hear the extra noise.
2003 F150 SuperCrew 5.4L, 4X2 Air Conditioning worked perfectly last night. Nice and cold. This morning, no worky. AC compressor clutch is not engaging. Here is what I've done, engine running, Max AC, clutch will not engage compressor:Jumpered low pressure line switch Jumpered high pressure line switch Wiggled switch on compressor (could not get it to release, because I couldn't figure it out) Clutch will turn by hand, engine running and not Attempted to service low pressure port, but since the compressor was not running, the pressure at this port was 80+ PSI. Checked AC clutch relay, AC Fuse, and AC diode Because it ran so well just 12 hours ago, I feel like it something electrical.
View 6 RepliesSo today, I planned on switching the belt, idler pulley and tensioner since at least two of them are making noises. After taking all of the stuff off, belt, idler pulley and tensioner... and since I always compare parts I buy to parts that were in, making sure they are identical and I didn't order the wrong one. So first up I checked my tensioner and the position of them or angles are different, completely different.
So Google it to view a few diagrams and bang! it hits me... the one I took out from my F150 is for a non-AC... so back into the truck and I'm looking. Didn't have to go far when I realized that my AC compressor is missing!!!!
I keep looking around and I see that yes, I did have AC in it before I got it; because the guts are there but sliced! Great, so the job went from easy and easy I mean buy compressor and install; but now since the guts were cut, the PO sliced the thing out simply put.
1.) What are the bolt sizes that hold the compressor in place?
2.) Is there a wire connector on the compressor? or no?