2002 F250,heavy duty. Problem, AC cools while driving at night or even on a cloudy day but on a hot sunny day you have to run on max and even then will not cool cab. I had gas checked they said it was good to go. I bought this truck new and the ac has always been weak in my opinion. I took it to dealer the first summer I owned it everything checked out ok. What the problem might be?
View 11 RepliesI need a way to make my both fans be on constant during track days, I know induction makes a fan kit for the mk4 r32 which works great but the controller in the MK5 is different and the kit don't fit.
View 8 RepliesAs the title says, I have an 02 Supercrew with the 5.4. The engine starts when cold and runs fine but sometimes when I start it hot after running for a bit, it will stall out unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal. This seems to only happen on hot days. It was about 90 F here yesterday and I drove it to a shopping mall after supper - maybe 5 miles. It sat for maybe 20 minutes and when I re-started it, it stalled out.
The tach needle just drops slowly to zero and the engine stops. It will re-start without any problem but will only keep running if I keep my foot on the gas and keep the revs up a bit. It has done this a few times in the past few years and only on hot days after it has been running and then sat for a few minutes.
What I should look at? It does not throw any codes and generally runs ok after a few minutes. For example, last night I managed to keep it going by shifting into neutral when required until I got back on the road. I drove 2 or 3 miles and at the next light, it acted like nothing happened.
I have a very large rattling/vibrating sound when I am driving highway speeds. This only happens when the temperature is warm, and when a wind gust hits my truck (or if I am passing a Semi). When I drive to work in the morining, there are no issues. When I drive home in the afternoon, it will start within 5-10 minutes of hitting the highway. I have checked for any loose bits and pieces but I cannot find any. I have attached a sound recording of the issue.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Explorer with AC that is not cooling. The AC clutch engages, then cycles off and repeats the process over and over. With a gauge on the low side port, the pressure rises to around 65 psi when the compressor is off, then drops in seconds down to nearly 10 psi. Does this indicate low AC pressure? I have always seen the pressure pretty much stay static at a certain pressure....haven't ever seen it fluctuate like that from low to high as the compressor kicks in and out.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Chevy Malibu that likes to refuse to start every couple of days or so, throughout the day, but never the first start of the day. It's not the fuel pump and it's getting a spark. It happens in all temperatures. Three different mechanics have not figured out what the problem is. From what I've read online, I suspect an issue with the theft deterrent module or something like that it's called.
View 5 RepliesThis question is for recommendations on whether to have the dealer service (clean) the Camry's ignitors
In a previous posting, I mentioned that my Camry was hard to start after sitting in the garage for 2-3 days. Dealer "diagnosed" (guessed?) it as a weak battery, tho the cranking speed seemed pretty normal (peppy)to me. My first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors.
I asked my regular mechanic for an opinion on cleaning and he pretty much said "don't" unless there isa specific problem (eg engine check lite).
Could I hear from the group whether ignitor cleaning ($210) as a "preventive maintenance" is a good idea? I am not about to disassemble the throttle body or some such and do it myself, but I AM OK with adding acan to my gas tank, if it won't hurt and can work.
Parked my 2002 sc430 with 6 month old battery at airport for 10 days while I was out of the country. When I got back the battery was dead. It was easy to jump and the clock was still on. I could see nothing that was left on. I have seen some other cars that have had the problem, something about theft lights, gps etc. I drove it home about 30 miles and have had no problem since.
View 14 Replies2002 4.6 SC with towing package... Transmission cooling lines to radiator leaking. Replacing them? How long does it take, can it be done while working on the ground? Any tricks or problems to look out for?
View 3 RepliesI just started recently getting this code on my '02 F150 with the 5.4. It only started doing this since the temperature started cooling off. The light, next to the oil pressure gauge comes on only at initial start up. Once the motor warms up, it goes off. I'm due for an oil change, which I'm getting today.
View 4 RepliesI have the 6 speed (ZF) i know there is a cooling pump on this tranny. Is there a way that you can check the pump to see if it is working???? If not will it set a code??
02 7.3 CC
Is it possible to have work done on a 2002 Passat's A/C that isn't cooling very well. Can they add freon or whatever?
View 1 RepliesNot enough cooling in the B5.5 Passat wagon.
I had the freon checked and it seems to be fine, however it takes a long time for the cabin to cool of here in North Carolina. THe air coming out of the vents doesn't seem as cold as my older 1998 Passat. I used to have a silver sedan 1.8T and the a/c was temperature was ice cold and it got very cold after 20 seconds or so. It reminded me of GM cars.
My wagon is dark blue and beige leather interior which is probably why it takes longer to cool off. If you go for a short trip and the car has been out in the sun it would take at least 15 to 20 minutes to get comfortable. The compressor generally cycles off only once and then it stays on for the duration. My old sedan was the same way. I use the a/c on the rec mode which keep the air colder but still not quite as cold as some other models.
I recently picked up an 02 Golf with a 2.0/5-speed. It's just a plain-jane model without all the bells and whistles. My fans and A/C aren't working. I can deal with no A/C but the cooling fans are kinda important. I did all of the trouble shooting. Both fans work on low and high when jumped at the radiator temp switch so my fans aren't the problem. I replaced the temp switch with no change. My OBD-II scanner shows that my actual coolant temperature was about 10 degrees off from my temp gauge so I replaced the temp sensor too. The timing belt and water pump were both changed about 5K ago.
I borrowed a "good" FCM from a buddy's car and that didn't work either. I went through the troubleshooting diagnostics for the FCM harness and see that I do not have continuity between T14/14 & T14/5 on the harness side. This indicates that the "F38 Ambient Temp Swicth" is possibly my culprit. Everything else checks out good on the FCM harness. Where is this switch located? I've searched online and found nothing specific to my 02. For the sake of testing can I jump these 2 wires for continuity to simulate a working switch? From what I've read this ambient temp switch disables the fans and A/C when air temps are below a certain temp. My next step is going to be wiring in a variable speed fan controller if I can't figure this out .....but I'd rather not get in to that if I can get the factory setup working.
I have a problem with my Toyota Camry 2002 4 cyl. 2.4L, I changed my Motor cooling fan but my car keeps overheating, I changed the overflow tank top, but still its overheating and the car turns off by itself sometimes, when its cold (after i turn it on) it starts bucking and also if its stop (example, if i park somewhere), and at last, the temp isn't showing correctly on my dashboard.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Chevy Malibu 3.1L Automatic that I've replaced the head gasket, intake manifold gasket, and exhaust manifold gaskets on three times in 6 years. The most recent time I think was caused by an overheating problem originally. A few weeks ago it overheated one time and boiled the coolant, but I did not let it redline on the temp-gauge. Still, the next day I found distinct evidence of coolant in the oil. After replacing the full gasket set and thermostat for good measure, I'm still getting an overheating problem. My assumption was that the coolant leaked into the oil and then when the car overheated I put only water in it temporarily which boiled somehow and probably caused more damage. This happened the first time I had a gasket problem years ago.
I'm not actually losing antifreeze that I can tell, so I know it's not the common intake manifold problem. I've checked all the hoses to make sure they're all properly secure as well and I can identify no dampness or evidence of pooling. I generally run the heat to identify if my cooling system is working correctly or is at least somewhat functioning. It never does upon start-up, but I've found that if I rev the engine to above 4,000rpms for a sustained period of time (5-10 seconds) I can achieve what seems to be flow and the heater will kick on. The temp gauge will also level out and seem to run properly. This works about 95% of the time, but I've only tested it on short drives to work and back (maybe 15 - 20 miles).
I've primed the hoses and also flushed any air from the system on multiple occasions, so I've tried to cover all my basis. One thing that I have noticed is that after revving it and getting it to function so I can at least get to my destination, the heater will run VERY hot. Like it will burn your hand if you hold it in front of the vent for more than a minute or two. Unfortunately, when it overheated the first time I just immediately replaced the gaskets because this was the solution the past two times, which held for about 2 years each, so I don't know if this new, weird, problem is my doing or is something that caused the original problem.
Have 2002 Chevrolet Malibu. Oil is getting into cooling system but antifreeze is not getting into the oil. Cracked block or manifold gasket gone bad or something else? What should I do, repair or replace car?
View 7 RepliesAt startup, my 2002 Jeep A/C cools normally for about 10 minutes and then stops cooling. It won't cool again until much later, usually not until the next day, and then repeats cooling for about another 10 minutes . Might this be overcharged? I topped it off with gauge last fall.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Celica GT and the cooling loop on the power steering that runs out in front of the radiator (or AC condenser) is cracked and leaking. I need to replace it, I have a few questions:
- Where to get a replacement, likely Toyota?
- Find out how much work it is to replace myself?
- Does the system auto bleed any air or will I have to bleed it?
The manually-controlled air conditioning in my 2003 Ford Taurus can't take the heat (literally). If the outside air temperature is under 85 degrees, it works like a champ, but as the day gets hotter, the cold air disappears. This happens regardless of whether I've driven the car previously that day. My mechanic checked the coolant level, compressor, and sensors and all were fine and the AC was cold. He left the car sit outside in the sun for a few hours and voila - no AC! (BTW, it can happen when the car is parked in my garage too if it's a hot day). He says something is triggering a false temperature message telling the system to shut down. He wants to dig into the wiring in the system to look for a problem.
View 2 RepliesSo on Thursday night I replaced all of the plugs and boots on my 01 v10. I used Autolite 103's and Autolite boots. On Saturday the truck threw a code for cylinder 8. I bought a bag of 8 used coils off a buddy who has a mustang buy a few months ago so I put one on, cleared the code and the miss went away. On the way home tonight the truck started missing hard, but no CEL. I use torque, so i did a scan anyway and it pulled a code for cylinder 7. I haven't been out to troubleshoot yet. Could I have done something wrong for 2 coils to go in such a short amount of time? I followed the write up in the tech folder. Used proper torque specs, dielectric grease, and anti-seize on everything.
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