Ford A/C :: 2002 F150 - How To Access Dash Side Vacuum Heat / AC Controller
Jul 1, 2012
Troubleshooting my heat/AC selector (manual) problem in my 2002 F150 SuperCrew. I started with the "all air through the defrost vents issue" that's a fairly common problem. I found that the vacuum line thru the firewall (to the selector controller, I think) had a hole in it chewed by a mouse. But, while I was in the process of disconnecting the line from the T on the engine side of the firewall, the rest of the line just easily pulled through the firewall!.
Now I need to find where the line was going to and get a new one connected. In looking under the dash, I didn't see an obvious answer to my question of where the controller is located that the vacuum line was connected to. Where that connection is made behind the dash and how do I get access to it? Hope I don't have the drop the whole dash.
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My brother-in-law has a 97 F-150 with 4.6L that has no heat in the cab (blows cold air no matter what setting at HVAC controller). Heater core was replaced one year ago and T-stat was replaced last night. Coolant level is full and the heater hoses are BOTH hot so I believe warm coolant is flowing through the heater core. I am thinking that the HVAC controller may be at fault or maybe the mixing door in the HVAC plenum is malfunctioning. I have 97 rangers that had a broken hinge pin for the mixing door inside the plenum (a common problem with these trucks), maybe this is the same issue (I don't know). I am taking the whole dash out to see what the trouble is.
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Installed an aftermarket stereo but having problems with the steering wheel controls adapter I purchased and need to remove the radio to access the settings on the adapter. The kit I used to install the radio states that once the radio is snapped in place with the kit, the dash bezel must be removed to access the radio. I googled and I cannot find instructions on how this piece come off.
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I have a '98 Ford F-150 XLT, 2WD, Short bed, Ext. cab, 4.6L, automatic trans. with 65,000 orig. miles. I bought this truck new. When I have the A/C or heater or just outside air coming in through the dash or floor vents, the air will switch to coming out of the defrosters when I accelerate and then the air will return to it's normal position when I let up on the gas. Is this caused by a bad vacuum check valve and if so where is it located and what does it look like??
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Ii have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT. Some days ago I tried to open truck doors with the remote controller and I couldn't. I put new batteries on it and it didn't work either. So i change for another controller I had (not new but in good conditions) i programmed that control and was perfect for 4 days. Now the new control does the same, it has new batteries and doesn't want to work.
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I have an '04 Explorer Limited and lately only blows cold air. I've read about the blend door motors but it's been too cold in MI to want to do much--so the truck sits.
When I was troubleshooting the problem I found that I'm not getting any vacuum signal to the heater valve in the coolant line. Before I contemplate removing the console & doing surgery on my dash I'd like to know for sure what position the valve should be in when heat is called for.
All the other vacuum actuators seem to be working normally and there's no disconnected hoses under the dash; and no leaks. Coolant reservoir is full.
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I am going to be pulling a trailer next week. I bought a raybestos voyager XP controller. I expected it to be plug and play but what I got was four wires. I have heard that there is a plug ready under the dash to plug a controller into directly. I found a gray pigtail with male ends. Is this it? Should I take controller back and get one with the correct plug or is there a harness one can buy or is a stop to my local ford dealer in the future.
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I notice the A/C wasn't working...drivers side never got cold like the passenger's side. I took the car in and they're telling me all A/C components work and none leak. Tells me my controller cannot set the range properly to close the driver's side door to be able to blow cold air like the passengers. He mention there is a bulletin out regarding the air duct/door warping over time resulting in this condition.
99 intrigue with auto climate control
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I bought a 04 explorer with a bad thermostat which led to a bad head gasket, fixed that and managed to not have to buy the special tools or time it , but now that its running I don't have any heat. I have complete service records on this vehicle and there was never a complaint of the heater not working. The a/c works and the heat will adjust the a/c temp, but no heat. In trouble shooting it I found that I am not getting vacuum to call for the coolant to enter the heater core. When I apply suction to it, it will send the coolant. Even though I wasn't getting the clicking noise, I pulled the blend door actuator and it looks surprisingly good (not looking forward to putting it back in). Where to look next?
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I just picked up a 78 F150 Ranger XLT with a 351M in it this past friday. I am absolutely in LOVE with her. She is a great solid truck. One issue I am having though is that she blows hot air out the vents over the hump but nothing is coming out the top of the dash. I am guessing that i will have to take the dash off and clean out the box check the door etc. What did you do to rectify?
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2002 7.3l Diesel 4x4 Excursion with 200K+ miles. Best truck I have ever owned and want to keep it forever!!!
One of the latches on the jack access door broke off years ago. I want to replace or repair it. I have been looking for a jack access door for years, and then saw this forum and decided to give it a try.
Needless to say I have contacted the local Ford dealerships multiple times and they say they can not get them. I have looked on craigslist without success. I have a silver (they call it Birch or something) truck with similar leather and carpet and door panels. When I can get another door or repair the latch on the ?
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94 ford f150. I have replaced a leaking heater core and replaced all heater hoses, radiator hoses and water pump. I do not have any coolant leaks at this time. The problem is: when operating the vent or heat, there is a residual coolant smell. Is it possible that the vents were coated with coolant when it was leaking, thus still producing the smell? If so, is there anyway to clean out the vent system?
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Took truck to a mechanic he advised me that the no heat was because of high back pressure in engine...never heard of this before, is this a correct diagnosis? No heat, air blows through all vents, defrosters.
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The horn on my 2010 golf recently went out, so I'm thinking that one of two things happened. Before the horn went out completely, one tone died, then about two months later it stopped working completely. When I press the horn, I hear a click coming from the dash. So, I think it's either a bad relay or both horns went out. How likely is it that both horns go out within a few months of each other?
Anyway, I bought a new horn relay, but how to access the relay panel located in the dash. How to remove the dash sections, or is there a good write up?
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I want to replace the auto trans coolant lines on my 2001 F150 4.2L. I discovered I can actually see the top coolant line flare nut from outside the right wheel well, with the wheel and wheel liner removed. The lower line is just a few inches below. See photo, it's a little off, so the line connector is not seen:
The heat shield is just a little bit in the way for my hands, I have to put one through the red circled area. A 1/2" hex head bolt holds the shield to the frame (circled in green). This was easy to remove from the wheel well. After that the heat shield could be moved slightly away from the points I need to access.
I would prefer to unfasten the shield & move it out of the way for my hands. I found another bolt holding the rear end of the shield down to the frame, wasn't able to remove this - the bolt fastens to a U-nut in the frame that broke off & has trapped the bolt. Are there any other bolts fastening the heat shield down?
I was able to remove the old flare nuts with a 5/8" flare nut wrench, but have not been able to start the new nuts into their fittings, just not quite enough visibility and access.
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On a 2000 F-350 with 5.4 engine, where does the vacuum line enter the cab? I got a truck in with no vacuum signal to the heat controls, and it has a slight miss at idle. Both of these are signs of a vacuum leak, but i can not find the line going into the cab.
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I have a 2004 F250 CCSB 6.0 diesel. The problem I'm having is that vacuum is bleeding off when the control is set to OFF or MAX A/C. I also have no vacuum at the MAX A/C level to close the heater valve. Looking for a vacuum schematic for an 03 or 04 truck with manual controls or how to know what the malfunction is?
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I found out by accident that my vacuum pump is now running all the time. It's not the gray line to the heater valve and it's not the vacuum canister as I already checked the easy stuff. I need some direction where to start looking under the dash as I have never been under that part of my truck. Any common issues or where to look?
More information: The pump only runs all the time when the HVAC control is set to OFF or MAX AC.
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I have recently developed a vacuum leak on my 2002 F-350 V-10 under the passenger side of the dash. It is only audible when I am accelerating moderately to heavily or when the truck downshifts going up a hill. None of the vehicles HVAC or ESOF functions seem to be affected by this leak from what I can tell, but it's rather annoying to listen to this loud sucking noise every time I hit the gas moderately hard such as climbing a hill or merging onto the freeway. I don't know how I could search for this leak since it only happens when I'm driving and accelerating and not at a stop. What might be going on or where I should begin my search?
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My transfer case will only pull vacuum to the hubs when floor shifter is in between 4 low and 4 high. as soon as the dash light comes on for low or high it looses vacuum. Is there a switch that tells it to pull vacuum? Any good breakdown of the transfer case?
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I just bought 2003 king ranch with a 5.4 it started burning coolant and the heat was coming on then while the engine was at operating temp would blow cold air. Then the temp gauge would start to rise,once it got to the top the heat would start to come on and the temp gauge would then go down to normal.I started by changing the thermostat which didn't work.
Then i figured it was air in the system I kept burping the truck at idle but it never worked, it kept burping while driving all the coolant out that i put in back out finally i took that cap off the one that clicks when you tighten it and replaced it with a cap that tightens down all the way and doesn't click. Every morning I check the reservoir fill it up to the proper level and so far so good.
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