Ford A/C :: 2002 Excursion - Blower Stay On High And Wouldn't Turn Off
Aug 7, 2016
About a month ago I replaced my blower control module. I purchased the module from Rockauto. The first replacement module lasted about a month. I received a replacement because the blower stayed on high and wouldn't turn off. The second module only last one week, the blower once again only blows on high and won't shut off. Both replacement modules were made by Dorman. Could something be killing them or am I just getting crap parts?
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
It started with the blower motor that wouldn't turn off by itself when the truck was turned off. I forgot to turn the fan off one night and woke up to a dead battery. Got my dad to come give me a boost and it would turn but not start and the anti theft light in the dash was blinking fast.
Later in the day I got another boost and it started right up.
This was yesterday... after the last boost and startup I went and got a few things, stopped to get gas... started back up fine each time.
Last night I was greasing zerks and making sure everything in the front end was nice and tight when the abs module started clicking... and the anti theft started blinking and truck wouldn't start. Left it alone and went to bed.
This morning I boosted it and it started fine. Later in the day it wouldn't start again because of the anti theft. Gave it 5 minutes and it started. Stopped to get gas... wouldn't start (anti theft)... started after about 5 minutes.
On the way back home... it's been making this 5 beep, pause, 5 beeps, pause sequence so I pulled it into the garage and turned it off now the locks are locking/unlocking by themselves randomly, the beeping is on and off, anti theft light blinks for a few minutes then goes away only to come back...
I've been told to remove the fuse box under the hood and check to make sure all connections are clean... I've searched and seen possible solutions ranging from a dirty connection to needing a new GEM module and apparently sometimes just a low voltage situation will cause our trucks to act nuts...
View 14 Replies
Well my blower motor only blows on high which IMO points to the resistor, went and bought one and still only blows on high. Tried to test the plug that goes to the resistor but couldn't get anything, shouldn't there be 12v going to the plug and then step down to the resistor until high is selected then 12v bypasses the resistor all together? Blows strong and cold, too cold actually since we cant turn the blower down so we have to turn it off for a few minutes.
View 9 Replies
I have an 02 F150 super crew FX4 4.6. Over the last year, about once every 2 months I noticed that the AC wouldn't turn off when I took the key out. I would turn it back on and off and it would stop. A couple weeks ago during a mild hurricane (we get those in NC, just a lot of rain) the truck started trying to start itself in the drive way but wouldn't turn over.
Then it started trying to turn itself over while I was driving. (but only after heavy rain). I thought I identified that it wouldn't happen if I pulled out the key ignition lock cylinder thing. You know, you have to push it in and then turn to start; If I made sure it wasn't pushed it, it seemed not to ghost start. So I figured maybe it was an issue with the key ignition lock.
Then this week it wouldn't start, it would try to turn over but not start. (usually after rain). I replaced the starter solenoid relay and things seemed to be fine for the last 2 days.
Well it rained like hell last night. It wouldn't turn over. After trying to turn it over and removing the key, the accessories stayed on (fan, radio, etc - even with opening door). I pulled the 50a fuze which killed the accessories, and it would turn over without that fuse in, but I had to put the fuse back in to get it out of park.
Another clue, recently, occasionally I hear relay clicking behind my dash after the key is out when it is acting up. So I am lost here. Should I rip out the dash and see if water is leaking in?
View 3 Replies
Since I bought the Ex last December the rear lock worked sometimes. The key cylinder wouldn't turn, but the actuator would work from time to time.
So since it is hunting season and I want to lock up the Ex when I am in the field I dug into it tonight.
I want to know how do I remove the actuator from the handle/lock mechanism. It looks like it just snaps on. I pulled the actuator back a touch and the arm feel off that drives the lock mechanism.
So after pulling the handle and trim piece, removing the lock cylinder and hosing it in PB blaster and brake kleen and more PB blaster I now have a lock cylinder that turns freely.
After turning my attention the lock mechanism and flooding it with PB blaster, I now can lock the Ex. That mechanism is not a smooth item! So do I need to remove the complete lock mechanism assembly to remove the actuator? Can I buy an actuator with a metal arm?
View 3 Replies
I'm new and have recently bought my first X. its a 2001 XLT with the 5.4. I really couldn't pass it up with the guy asking under 7K with 104,000 miles and not a rust bucket.
I discovered last night that my blower (at least front) continues to blow when key is out and off. I have played with the key to think its a switch but am not sure. Here's the other part, If I turn the selector to off before shutting the truck off it stays off BUT if i turn it on it will not go back off and stays on....
View 6 Replies
Recently, my mechanic told me that I need to replace my 4wd vacuum switch (sits on the passenger side fender). After replacing the switch I drove the truck about an hour. On my way home, I noticed that blower would blow for a few minutes then cycle on an off. I was running the a/c on my drive home.Could the vacuum switch be faulty and causing this problem?
View 7 Replies
I have a 2003 Crown Victoria. Within the last year, I changed blower fan resistor (or Blower fan control module) and repaired the Electronic Climate Control Module (the thing inside the cabin that controls A/C, heat, defrost and fan speed). Today, while I was driving, the blower fan came on high and would not stop. The weather was mild, so I did not have the A/C or heat on at the time. I tried pressing various buttons to make it stop, but it was running at high and wouldn't stop. The only way to make it stop was to turn off the engine. When I turn the engine back on, the blower fan was on high again.
What could possibly be wrong with the car? I recently changed the blower fan resistor, so that is unlikely to be the culprit. Even if it is, why wouldn't it shut off? Other people with a bad blower fan resistor say that the speed control is stuck on high, but the fan can be turned on and off.
Could it be the electronic climate control module inside the cabin? After all, it is the unit that tells the blower fan to go on. Air could be directed to defrost, vent and floor without any problem.
What do you think is making the fan stay on at HIGH and does not turn off?
View 16 Replies
I have a 2002 Camry that has been having a tough time starting in the mornings over the last couple weeks. Today I went to start the car and it wouldn't turn over at all. My battery is pretty old, so I just presumed this was the issue. I went and got a new battery and put it in, but still not starting. In fact, the car isn't even turning over at all (no clicking sound that I associate with lack of voltage from the battery). The car just makes a faint "whinning" noise.
All the electronics/lights in the car are working and when I turn the car on the check engine light, abs light, etc turn on. Doing a little searching online, I found that when I turn the ignition from "on" to "start" the headlights should dim and all of the interior lights (check engine, ABS, etc) should go off. They are not going off or dimming, but I'm not sure exactly what this is indicative of? Is this lack of headlight dimming/interior lights going off a tell-tale sign of something ("that is for sure the starter")?
Should I pull the starter and take it in to an Auto Zone type shop for testing, or is there something else I should be looking at first?
View 6 Replies
So finally got my truck running due to a fuel issue. Anyways been driving it for a week or two now, and I have a strange problem idk if it has been covered here or not.
Driving around tow etc if you come to a light or whatever and stop the rpms stay at 800rpm. Now if you shift it out of gear and back into drive the rpms settle back down around 650. Where is should be.
My guess is the torque converter is not disengaged all the way when it stuck at high rpm (800-900) for this situation. No cel, slippage, or crazy noises
2002 7.3 power stroke all stock right now @160k black crewcab
Previous owner had a tunner on it but not anymore. Could it have smoke the trans???
View 14 Replies
My 2002 PSD X with 258K miles has a high pitched squeal in the engine compartment. I only had a minute to look at it as my wife was leaving with it. But, I was able to stick my head under the hood and it seems like it is coming from the front of the engine. Trying to pinpoint where the squeal is coming from with all of the other engine noises is tough. I suspect one of the bearings up there like idler pulley, tensioner pulley, alternator, AC compressor, water pump. The alternator has about 70K miles. The other items I don't know.
View 5 Replies
So I've been having a problem getting in and out of my drivers side door. It got really cold and snowy here and one day I went to close my door and it wouldn't stay latched. Figured maybe something froze and it just stuck but once I finally got it to close I couldn't get it to open again even once the weather stabilized.
Finally one day it just opened and has been fine ever since but now the door won't lock and the light on the bottom of the door stays on. I had this problem once before and it turned out to be a loose solder joint that I fixed.
My guess is I should just buy a new locking mechanism for that door. Is there something that can cause all the doors be somewhat finicky? All the doors seem to not lock on occasion or open when it appears to be unlocked.
Last thing, I tried to take out that bulb so I wouldn't kill the battery but I accidentally touched the two leeds and the fuse is fine but I think I fried a relay because my dome light no longer works and I can't get the sunroof to close. Looked it up and found something about an accessory relay.
View 8 Replies
At first it wouldnt start without me burying the throttle, and wouldnt stay running if i took my foot off the gas, i replaced the throttle position sensor and it starts with no issue, but now if i give it any gas, it shuts of, unless i let off the gas very slowly, what do i do?
View 7 Replies
I drove our 95 3.0l aero to work today, I was going to a job 45 miles away. It sounded like it was revving awfully high for 65-70mph, but the gear selecter said od, so I figured I was just crazy. Got to the job and tried to back up and the shifter wouldn't go into reverse. Parked for the day after realizing the shifter would go N and down, but not into rev or park. Apparently it was revving high, as the gear indicator was now off and I was no doubt in drive, driving to work. I got it home, then had to drop my daughter at work, by staying in OD.
Then on the way home the van just DIES while going 35+- mph. Won't restart, smelled gas after many many attempts to start. Towed home. NO spark. I have 12+ volts at+coil. I tried my ignition module and a new one, neither sparked at the coil wire. I bought a new coil, then checked resistance at + &-, and - and coil output post. Basically same resistance new & old coil. Did my hall effects or cam, or crank sensor just go out or? Why both problems same day? I thought if it was the coil or ignition module, maybe it got too warm on drive revving high. Does a 95 3.0 coil get triggered by the distrib haal effects or does the crank sensor do it?
I can easily see one of those being bad as they are original, with 334,000+ miles. All the tune up, coil, wires, plugs, ign module, cap, rotor, were replaced 55,000 miles ago. ALSO does this distrib have a TFI module on it? My book says to pull the distrib and remove it, like my 5.0l Mustang, but I don't see one, I think thats the ignition module on the pass. inner fender. I'd like to see if I can get 400,000 miles out of it.
View 4 Replies
Im out of options, the guy who usually scans my car for me is nowhere to be found. I changed the blower resistor and the blower still does not stay consistently on. My next guess is a bad relay somewhere.
View 12 Replies
Yesterday I drove my mom's 02 explorer to the gas station to fill it for her. After filling, I started it. It ran for several seconds and then died. It wouldn't start right away, so I let sit for a half hour, and then it started and I drove it 10 miles home. What is going on?
View 6 Replies
When turning the ac/heat on it will only work on the high setting and none of the lower ones - 2003 f250 .....
View 3 Replies
So the PO tells me he was flying down the highway and went to cancel his cruise control and it wouldn't turn off. He claims he made it to the shoulder of the highway and killed the ignition. When he restarted the truck is was turned off and it hasn't been used since. I tried to use it yesterday but couldn't get it to work?
So I do the search and find out that the deactivation switch is most likely the issue. I just picked up a new one today and was curious if it is just a R & R thing or if it needs to be bleed off or something? Is there a need to test it or just change it out? Sound like something that would cause these issues?
View 14 Replies
I bought a used 2002 Camry (at a discounted price because of a few dings and dents) and the headlights are not working. The high beams and turn signals work but not the headlights. I changed the bulbs, checked all the fuses and got a new relay but still nothing. I brought it to an electro-mechanic and he told me the ECM was busted and that he could maybe grind it down. This seemed odd to me so I called my old mechanic in the states who said he has never heard of an ECM causing headlights not to work and suggested I install a toggle switch. Does this sound like it could work? Could I do this on my own? I'm pretty handy but am a little hesitant to try any electrical work on my car as I have no experience with electrical work.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 Ex 5.4 4wd ... I shut down my ex jumped out, locked her up and came out two days later and she was deader than a door nail. Charged battery (charger/starter) started her up and let her run for a while. Came back noticed the abs light was on, shut her down and noticed my blower motor was still running, after I shut the engine down and removed the key. Tried it again, same thing. This is obviously what drained the battery, but what in the wide wide world of sports in going on? the blower motor usually shuts off with the ignition switch when you turn the engine off..
I believe this to be the original battery, would minimal battery power make thing act strange or ????? Ignition switch is tight, never had any problems with it. I have not done any "fixin" of the wiring system so it should be ok. Took it for a drive, radio turns off with ignition as should, blower motor will turn off if I turn the b/m switch to off position before I turn the ignition off. If I leave the B/M on and turn ignition off the b/m continues to operate in any speed and will NOT shut off even if I position the b/m switch to the off position. Turn ignition on turn b/m switch to off the b/m turns off............still perplexed!!!!
View 11 Replies
My front ac blower fan is not working. I changed the resistor because seemed to be popular answer for fix but nothing I took blower off and straight wired it and it worked so that should rule out blower motor. Right? Swapped relay 103 and nothing...
View 8 Replies
