I have a 2002 e350 box truck and the ac only blows through the defrosters I live in FL and it is hot!!! We need to know where the ac control gets it's vacuum from.
View 1 RepliesI have been having recent A/C problems with the climate control in the EX. Upon acceleration the air flow diverts to the defrosters and then when you reach the top of the hill for example the A/C goes back to the vents. I think its possibly a vacuum problem so I looked under the dash and found a ribbed white plastic hose that looked like it came detached. The end of it has a back elbow piece on it with a rectangular tab that looks like it slides or snaps into a slot to secure it. Just wondering if this could be part of the issue or just info on where to reconnect it..
2003 Ex 10 cyl eddie bauer....
I have a E350 5.4 with 200,000 miles and it ran great before winter, this spring I fire it up and it got a miss I drive it anyway it starts to clear up and now the 1289 code. Everything looks fine coolant engine temp. I wonder if you can bypass the Cylinder Head Temp sensor. I am thinking the engine management is causing the miss to cool the engine.
View 3 Replies2002 e350 7.3 diesel transmission... At 7 miles the speedo began bouncing and truck drops into second. Parked it 30 minutes, stated up no problem until 8 miles and the it started again. Have checked most of the electrical, changed speed sensor and transmission position sensor. Only error code 2-3 rd gear mismatch.
View 11 RepliesI have a '98 Ford F-150 XLT, 2WD, Short bed, Ext. cab, 4.6L, automatic trans. with 65,000 orig. miles. I bought this truck new. When I have the A/C or heater or just outside air coming in through the dash or floor vents, the air will switch to coming out of the defrosters when I accelerate and then the air will return to it's normal position when I let up on the gas. Is this caused by a bad vacuum check valve and if so where is it located and what does it look like??
View 11 RepliesI had a post a couple of months ago about this E350 van I purchased with the 7.3. It would leave me stranded every few weeks and I replaced the injector oil pressure sensor and the camshaft position sensor. This truck has a intermittent running problem that cannot be pinned down to hot or cold.
It runs and idles well but sometimes during acceleration it will start to flatten out and smoke out the exhaust. Giving more accelerator pedal powers through the flat spot and the truck runs smooth. It does not do it every time. It does it hot or cold, wet or dry, city or highway, If this was a gas engine I would be replacing the fuel pump or checking a fuel starvation issue but the white smoke tells me that it has unburned fuel.
A cylinder contribution test passes fine. I monitored engine data with a Snap On Verus pro and compared oil pressures with another 03 7.3 I have and they are too close to the same. It starts fine, no issues there. It may take off great one time and buck and smoke the next. I swapped out the throttle position sensor with the other 7.3 and no change. I swapped out the injector control module and no change.
I've thought about injector Orings but I would think the problem would be consistent. I've changed engine oil, checked fuel pressure, changed fuel filter, and drained the fuel system to be sure no water is in the separator. This engine was rebuilt about 30k miles ago. If you floor the accelerator in park it will rev up, flatten out, smoke and buck for about 2-3 seconds, and then take off like normal. I pulled a trailer with it a couple of days ago and wasn't impressed at all. I have a 6.5 GM that seems to have more power than this.
I thought maybe a sticking injector and I added a half gallon of two cycle oil to the fuel to see if that might work. It hasn't. It just seems like it is flooding at a certain rpm and clears itself after a couple of seconds. There are no codes being thrown in the pcm. I am at a loss.
I have a 2002 Ford Taurus which I bought in the Winter and didn't check the air conditioner. It only blows hot air on any setting, some settings blow more hot air than others. I will have to pay to remove the dash to find out. Here's the weird part, last summer the coolant was a little low and I was stuck in a drive thru line. I watched the temperature go up until, lo and behold, the air conditioner kicked in and blew frigid air! It came on and worked twice more that day. I filled up the coolant and it hasn't worked since.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0L truck that, all of a sudden, has a problem with the HVAC system that blows air only thru the defrost vents even when selecting any other vent levels (defrost, face/middle or floor levels).
I did find a thread on another forum regarding this problem, only it was for the 95-01 Ranger model years, yet they say that the 2002 Ranger is not the same as those earlier models.
I just had the 30,000 mile service at a dealership, replaced a leaking water pump, front and rear brakes. The car has just 30k miles on it so it hasn't needed anything major despite being 10 years old. Once I got it back the front windows and windshield are fogging up. It doesn't seem to matter if the car just started or has been going for a while. We have had temperature changes and humidity changes in the weather, neither makes a difference. I have to drive with the windshield defrost on all the time. The dealer said it isn't anything they did, but it started immediately after I got it back. Is it possible that they knocked something and broke it?
View 10 RepliesI am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
i am having some big difficulties with my car i own a 2002 Lincoln LS v-8, has about 118,000 miles on it. when i bought the car USED the heater or ac didn't blow at all we fixed that all it was a fuse. But know that it is winter time the thing is my cars heater blowsn out cold air. ive noticed some times heat blows a little from the passenger side but not the driver and then if it does get warm (my car) its takes for ever. Know i dont really have a problem with the defrost becaseu in the mornings my windows are defrosted after like 20min. ive been reading alot about DCCV and i want to think thats the problem but i really dont know.
View 2 RepliesI have a 02 gti 1.8t and my a/c stopped blowing cold out of nowhere. I added r134 and it didn't make a difference. Changed the switch near the firewall in the engine bay and it still did nothing. Compressor clutch kicks on when a/c button is pressed. Could it be I have a leak?car has 147k on it.
View 6 Replies2002 Windstar A/C problem. Blows cold in the rear but not the front. Blend door actuator in the front is operating properly. Compressor cycles on and off but not excessively. When temp levers in full warm air blows to floor but it is not warm. Compressor runs even when the A/C on/off switch is in the off position. Indicator light is off but compressor still runs. Condensate puddles on floor in rear but none in front under vehicle.
View 8 RepliesI own a 2002 Grand AM GT. With the engine temperature reading around 200, and the heat set at maximum, frequently, for about a minute, I will get nothing but cold air. At maximum heat setting, on one day, there would be hot air. Yet, at another time the air output would be lukewarm.
View 3 RepliesI have no heat in the LS at no settings. The AC runs good but does not seem to be regulated as it blows cold at any temp setting. The fan responds to settings but i still get no heat even with the AC turned off. I would like to find a diagram that shows the locations of the bleed valves to start a coolant air bleed.
View 13 RepliesWhen I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
View 2 RepliesMy avalanche ac is not working correctly. The ac is not cold at all and blows out hot air when it stops. I refilled it with freon and it still doesn't get any colder. What might be the problem? And also even though I turn the ac up high, it doesn't blow very hard. (I used the gauge when refilling freon, so no overfilled).
View 3 RepliesI have an '02 Durango, and the AC only blows cool air when going down the road at 25+ mph. I thought I'd try putting some refrigerant in, but when I hooked up the gauge on the can it buried the needle, so it's over 100 psi on the low side, and the pressure was high enough that no refrigerant would flow in. Up where the lines attach to the expansion valve, when idling the in line is HOT - like too hot to keep your hand on and the out line is about air temp. The guy at the parts store thought the expansion valve was bad. As stated, AC works okay (but not excellently) while going down the road.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Nissan Maxima with 118K that the heating and a/c fan always blows on high. Even when you turn everything off. I've been told it's the blower motor resistor. Is there anyway to check with a volt meter before purchasing new one? Once I buy the new one I don't think I can return
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan and I am having an issue with it running a touch rich and not getting the gas mileage it should. Here we go, in March the van started to start hard and blow black smoke out of the exhaust. After a 120 mile drive back home, one morning it would not start. I pulled to a mechanic who went out and started it without a problem, he said it was flooded out and probably needed to change plugs and wires. I took it home and changed the wires and plugs. Much to my surprise, no change. The van started hard and then ran really rough with no power for a while and was polluting the air with black smoke. The average mileage was around 12 mpg. I went to the next step and changed the coil pack. No change. Finally took it in and the mechanic changed the O2 sensor and the cat converter. The can runs better but still gets around 16 mpg and still blows a small amount of black smoke. Oh yeah, the air filter is clear and there are no trouble codes either. I am thinking it could be a something with the fuel delivery system maybe?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Dodge Durango and the rear passenger air blows cold only - was fine last winter. Neither the passenger or the driver controls will get warm air to the rear via the overhead vents. Warm air comes out under the front seats to the rear only.
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