Second off my 01 PSD CC has a issue. When its more or less sunny and hot out 90+ at idle A/C blows warm .... I've just replaced my fan clutch as it was lose a bit .... Also replaced dyer VVO and compressor recently. Idle low is at 40 and high is at 190 200 ...
View 9 RepliesBack after months...van has been checked by 2 ford dealer mechanics here in VA , nothing.
Now it's the opposite ...temp outside 90 or higher, drive it for 8 -10 ml, park and come back after 15 min. From shopping, try to start, won't idle, stalls every time I try , after 6-8 attempts, back to normal, all together 3 times, last time was so bad, had a real problem to make it back home, at every stop, it stalled.
Back to the shop ....they drove several times, no show ...it's fine, don't know what to do ????
I've got an 01 Ford Escape 4 cyl 5spd awd, it idled low when its warm, revs between shifts and if you put it in nuetral and let the clutch out when you're moving it revs to 3500rpms and just sits there until you stop or push the clutch back in. I've replaced the iacv and the pcv valve, elbow and hose, and the tps. What to look at next?
View 4 Replies2001 windstar rough idle at warm up, start drive the van with cold engine for about 3-4 ml s, come to a light, stop, van starts rough idling, if I don't put it in neutral and hit the gas it will die ... after that , no problem .
View 13 RepliesI swapped transmissions in an 01 vr6 glx automatic car. The car will start and run perfectly until it reaches operating temperature. Once it hits 190 f it shuts down and will only start again if u wait a few minutes. It has me stumped. I have unpluged the coolant temp sensor, and Have checked for vacuum leaks and loose connections but no luck.
View 1 RepliesWe are at 120K miles. The vehicle runs fine most of the time, but every once in 10-15 starts, it will rough idle or stall after a short warm up time when my wife stops at an intersection. Once she restarts it, it runs fine.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, the fuel pump, the crankshaft position sensor (was fried) and after consulting this forum, I checked the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm is not leaking.
I was able to recreate the rough idle and the CEL on the dash, but my two OBDII readers said there were no codes And the bluetooth reader I am using is indicating that the following tests are not completing: Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System and Oxygen Senors.
The dash CEL resets itself upon restart and does not light until the symptoms return.
After reading the Haynes Repair Manual, I am wondering about the Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system? But I don't want to lead the troubleshooting.
We bought the vehicle at 60K miles and it has been mostly reliable.
I have a 96 E-350 7.3 PSD. I noticed that the A/C seems to work well on the Highway but not so well stopped Idling. I thought maybe it was airflow so I replaced the Fan Clutch... Seemed like it was better for while (could have been my imagination)... I decided to evac the system and refill. The system takes 4 lbs of freon. The van was indeed low so I thought I had found my problem, but it didn't seem to work after evacing and refilling.
With gauges on the system the low side pressure when it was 80 degrees out this morning was 70 and the high side was 145. A/c temp from the vents was about 70.. If I raised the RPM's to about 2k, the low side would drop to around 30-35 the high side would stay about the same... and the AC in the Cabin was in the 50's...
Does this problem have to do with air flow over the condenser, or is possible that the compressor is getting tired. (The compressor stays on the entire time) Could it be a clogged orifice?
I drive a hot mess of a vehicle. It is a 1997 for taurus that's got more than its fair share of miles on it.My big brother drove this car when he was 16 and I am 22. I am a college kid and I don't do much to my car knowing it will die soon but at the same time I don't have much money to do much. We have a good relationship most of the time and I gladly provide gas and regular oil changes in exchange for transportation.
My car when its warm outside especially idles very rough. So rough that at times it stalls out. It seems to happen most often and to the worst degree when the outside temp is very high and it has been running recently and I'm trying to start it up again. At other times and temperatures it has idled rough but not bad enough to stall. Once I start driving, or moving, its fine. The rough idle makes my car sound like a boat, that's the best way I can explain it.
Why my car does this? How to fix it?
So, I have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 that idles low, around 5-600 all the time, and stalls in warm weather only. I just cleaned the IAC to no avail..
View 8 Replies1999 F-150 5.4L. I just removed the clutch fan and installed two electric fans about two weeks ago. The same evening, I took a short drive and noticed the idle was way higher than it normally is. Its idling about 800 to 900 RPM. Now, the weird part.....Startup is normal, as in the idle jumps up for the warmup, then drops to the normal 600 to 700 range. after a short drive, the idle is high and noticeable at a stop.
Sometimes, if I let the truck idle, after about 10 mins or so the idle will slowly start creeping up a little at a time till it hits about 900 or so and will level off. I have tried the IAC, I have tried disconnecting the battery and letting the PCM reboot, I have checked ALL my vacuum lines, I have checked my TPS sensor and voltages, checked my MAF sensor and voltages, fuel pressures, everything I could think of...
I hooked up my scanner (Auto X-Ray 6000) and checked all my running data, nothing really sticks out to me as outta whack. No codes set..
Here's another idle problem. I have a 1992 aerostar, 3.0 2wd with 245,000 kms.
I have been working on this van for weeks now getting it ready for summer. I have done a complete tune up consisting of wires, plugs, rotor, cap, pcv and all filters including gas, air and oil. I have checked the vacuum hoses as best as I could and all seem fine.
Here.s the problem. I start the van and it idles great. The engine doesn't move. After a few minutes it slows down a bit and starts to shake. Once it is completely warm and has been driven for an hour, it shakes noticeably. It has lots of power and gets good mileage. It never has a starting problem and never seems to be close to stalling. I am suspecting it is one of the various pollution control items such as the MAF, IAC or 02 sensor. Is there a way to check them at home?
While under the van, I noticed a cable that goes from the transmission into the firewall. A bracket holding it in place broke and the cable was rubbing against the exhaust pipe and burned through. Could this be related? I taped up the cable and tied it up and away from the pipe.
I have the 2.0L 4 cyl. engine (2001 XLS Manual 114k miles). Runs fine when cold but once the engine gets warmed up it starts idling really low. I mean so low that the RPM gauge looks like the engine is turned off, although it hasn't completely stalled (yet). The engine will kind of stumble here and there and occasionally jump up to the normal RPM. Not rough really (in fact it's hard to tell if the engine is on when it's so low) but something is obviously wrong. The check engine light is not on (assume no codes?).
Also when I'm driving I can feel that the RPM's are unstable and erratic. You know, it feels like I'm pushing and releasing the pedal very slightly even though I'm not moving it.
I replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter since they needed to be done anyway. I checked the vacuum lines and they all seem good. I replaced a few deteriorated lines even though they were holding vacuum. None of this changed anything.
So now I'm looking at more expensive stuff like the throttle position sensor, idle air bypass valve, EGR, MAF, etc. Where I should start? Is there anything that I can actually test to see if it's working or do I just need to start replacing parts until I find the problem? I guess cleaning the MAF and IAC might be starting points that don't cost anything (that IAC looks difficult to remove though).
I'm kind of thinking it's the TPS since it feels erratic at speed. However, I have never had a bad TPS cause a slow idle before. I have had it cause rough idle and such but not slow. Can it do that? What about the MAF sensor?
I have a 2005 ranger, 3.0 and automatic trans
The truck runs fine until it is warm... runs great down highway... stopping at a light or stop sign is horrible, It will act like the (old term ) carb is flooding out.
I put it on a meter It said tps so I replaced it. then it said number 4 cyl no power so I put new plugs in.... I do not hear any vacuum leaks, and It runs like a top when cold.
I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
Engine is a 69 390, fresh rebuild by the PO... Aluminum intake manifold and new Edelbrock 4bbl Drop in Crane ignition.
Runs great... Except when its warm out, or even on cold days when its warmed up after a substantial drive..
AT that point here is what happens: No issue until I shut it off then it diesels badly, THEN.. When I restart it will not idle, dies.. If I keep my foot on the accelerator it will keep running, but not well.. If I let it run for a good while, 5-10 mins, it smooths out... Consistently acts like this .. Again.. Not when the engine is cold, and not on a cold day until it really warms up..
I suspected a vacuum leak? Replaced any suspicious vac tubing.. Cant get to the AT modulator easily, have not checked it yet?? Also suspect the intake manifold??
Alright so I have an 03 5.4 with 144000 miles. once it warms up to temperature it has a miss and low end power is low and no fuel mileage gets 12 to 13 if I'm lucky. From idle to 3000 rpm its doggy get it over 3000 rpm it runs great. All new plugs and coil packs. What it could be. When the motor is cold it runs great has most its power.
View 3 RepliesGot a 13 f150 with the 5.0. I bought it used with about 14 thous kms, now it has 17. Ever since I owned it I noticed the idle was a bit jumpy warm or cold. I didn't really pay any attention to it as it wasnt throwing a CEL or anything but now that I have a roush exhaust and intake I have started to notice it a lot more....not that its worse but at idle my truck sounds like a boat. Weird comparison I know. It seems like it'll jump within +/- 200 rpm @ idle which IIRC is 1K rpm.
View 7 RepliesI have a 05 fx4 5.4L with 85k on it. It has started idling rough when i come to a stop light or slow down to 10 mph or less. It only does it once in a while. There doesn't seem to be any real pattern. The motor shakes until you rev it up and then it goes away.
I have cleaned the maf, put in new air filter and fuel filter. And put in a new battery. Would a coil act like that? Maybe plugs? Or a vacuum leak?
I have 2004 f150 small v8 (4.7?) Has about 92000 miles.
When warm truck runs excellently. At first start up the idle is very rough and raw gas smell for about 4 minutes then truck runs like new. Will start and restart great until it cools down overnite.
My actron says missfire cyl 3. Did not fix it. Dealer says that on start up compression is zero in cylinder three but is 100% when it warms up. Suggested I run seafoam through it. He thinks it has a vacuum leak or carbon at start.
In my limited knowledge I am thinking:
sticky lifter
bent push rods
warp valve
I have an 04 F-250 6.0l Power stroke diesel with a problem. The engine starts fine and runs normally until it gets warmed up. Once it is at the normal operating temperature it starts to sound like it is misfiring when idle. Once I accelerate it sounds normal again but when I slow to idle the misfire comes back.
View 5 RepliesI have a Tymar intake, magnaflow exhaust, a DP Tuner and I have Rosewood Diesel injectors.
I had a bad oil leak recently and it seemed to be coming from the turbo area so I changed all the o rings back there and deleted the EBPV system (I cut out the butterfly and welded the holes shut, cut the part of the pedestal that held the actuator because it looked like it was leaking and welded the oil holes in the pedestal that fed it. I left the actual EBPV sender in the pedestal and kept it connected to the harness)
After all that was done I checked the oil and it was low but still on the dipstick so I drove it to the local parts place to get some more oil, about 2 miles, because I wanted to check for leaks. It was not happy, ICP low code came up it was sputtering and jerking when stopped at a light. I got to the store and parked it, it took about 3 litres of oil and seemed to run pretty good after that.
But on the way home I noticed a bunch of white smoke, I figured maybe an injector was stuck. I started it a little later and no white smoke in the driveway so I thought maybe it had gotten lubed enough and had sorted itself out. That was a few days ago.
Today I started it and let it idle in the driveway for about 15 mins and no white smoke, I wanted to get it up to speed a little so I took it to do an errand that was about 10 miles away, lots of lights and a bit of highway. It would run fine while going at speed but as I would slow down for a light the ICP would go down to around 600psi and the white smoke would start, as sitting idling a huge cloud of white smoke would form (yes, I was that guy), once I could take off and get it running a bit harder it would go away again.
I am assuming that I have a stuck injector (or cracked), I have no oil in my degas bottle and it doesn't look like it is fuller than before. Seems like I may have used more fuel than I should have, but pretty hard to tell just from the fuel gauge.
I have tried a buzz test and they all sound the same, tried a Compression Contribution test, no codes from that.
How can I locate a stuck injector? If that's what it is?