Ford A/C :: 2001 F350 - Air Turns Cold When Let The Engine Warm Up
Dec 11, 2012
2001 F350 7.3L with 140K. Have had it for 7 years and this has never happened. I let the engine warm up (I'm in Cheyoming and it gets cold!). I'll have warm air coming out at all settings (foot, dash, combo, etc) for a few minutes, then the air turns cold!
I've checked the actuator and blend door and they seem to be working properly. The heater hoses going into the firewall are not particularly hot/warm. Is there a valve or thermostat that could be shutting water off to the heater core? Cause that's what it seems is happening. Like starting off in the shower with warm water . . . then someone gradually turns it to cold. Then next time I get in, warm air to cold again!
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I Just replaced the ac condenser filled it with new freon and now the clutch cycles on and off every few seconds but doesn't blow cold air. Does it need to settle for a while or run on high max AC for a while before it works properly? I filled it to the proper level. I'm pretty confident its full. Do I need to adjust anything? It hasn't worked in a few years I bet. I just got the truck. 2001 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel ....
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I have a problem here which isn't funny around 30F. The engine temperature act quite normal after a cold start, but the heating inside is disabled somehow. So I can select any temperature in the front and back, but it stays cold.
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My ac stopped blowing cold. The compressor turns on when I turn the ac on. When I pressure tested the low line port, it showed it was too high to add any recharge. 2001 jetta wolfsburg 1.8t....
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I have a 01 f350 7.3 turbo dsl. will not start cold. engine turns over fine. plug into block heater over nite , will start! outside temp does not make difference. I have replaced glow plugs, glow plug relay, wiring harness under valve covers. Where to go from here?
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5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
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Is is best to check the oil in the FSI 2.0T when the engine is warm or cold?
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My wife's 2000 explorer with the ohv 4.0 has trouble starting when cold outside. No problem in summer. The engine turns over but never catches. Eventually, after 5-10 min, it will catch. Sometimes we have to trun the key all the way off, not just acc, to make it start. Had battery checked, and was on the "low" end for cold cranking amps, but the engine doesn't lag like a dead battery would. Last winter we replaced a gasket on the upper part of the engine thinking that it wasn't flexible enough when cold outside and was getting the air/fuel mixture wrong. No check engine light. I think that covers everything.
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Our 1997 850GL wagon with 160k miles has persisently noisy valves. At considerable cost, we replaced the hydraulic valve lifters with new ones from Volvo. Noise persists. Increased oil viscosity, now at a ridiculous 15W40. Also using an oil additive to further increase viscosity. Little if any noise when engine is cold but once warm, much valve clicking. We change oil religiously and keep oil topped up.
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I've read the pages on engine oil level and changes in the awesome 2004-2009 manual by John's Stuff - Toyota Prius and more.
Great information on overfilling of engine oil. Among others I read:
"The ideal level is 1/4” (one-quarter inch or 6 millimeters) below the "full" mark, which is between the D and the E on the photo above." (p.27)
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Its a 2001 f250 with a 5,4. I just recently put a new shot block in it, the short block is a svt short block for an 01 lightning. every thing off old motor went on new svt block just fine, and it drop in just fine. only it will not warm up i let it run for 45 min the other day and on the gauge it would not come past the c. and i do believe the gauge to be accurate because the heat in the cab sucks and the top rad hose is just warm, not as hot as it should be. I've already put 2 new thermostats in it so I don't believe that to be the issue either.
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2003 F350 7.3L 164k miles. Got towed in with hard to start cold complaint.
Hooked it up to the Snap On Verus Pro scan tool and we get up to 3000 psi on the ICP cranking, IPR value seems within spec, we have rpms over 100 on tool, pulse width within spec, computer voltage above 10v while cranking, verified output of glow plug module (California) and glow plugs get voltage for approx 50 seconds @ 80 degrees farenheit, glow plugs all read 0 ohms resistance.
injectors do NOT sound the same during buzz test.
Vehicle takes EXCESSIVE cranking cold to eventually get it started. LOTS of cranking. Just had to replace starter and a battery because driver burned em out. It feels like the vehicle shakes when it gets running. Black smoke when revving cold. Sometimes white smoke while cranking.
Once the engine has been warmed up, it starts perfectly every time.
I have spent two days in the engine bay looking for chaffed wires and doing diag and my current diagnosis is bad injectors. I feel there COULD also be high pressure oil leak, or a mechanical issue such as low compression. No compression guage yet for this truck. We have the ICP and IPR fittings to do a shop air test. Recently did a 6.0L and went thru everything and eventually diagnosed it as bad HPOP. LOW ICP pressure.
I noticed two of the cylinders were at maybe 8% Perdel on the data. Seems too high. Also, it "passed" the KOER self test and "passed" the injector buzz test with no codes after, but the audible sound of injectors didn't "seem" right to me, but I am new to these engines.
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
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My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
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Have a problem with my Santa Fe. 2004 2.4l.
My wife drove the car when the problem first appeared. She had been driving for 30 min, roughly 30km, and the car looses power and stops. Won't start when she tries. It cranks but won't fire up. When she waits for a minute it fires up but stalls.
We took it to a workshop. No code. They changed the fuel filter, which hadn't been changed for a long time.
They took it for a drive and it worked fine. I picked it up and it was working. Then it died when I exited the highway. It had lost some power during a second while still on the highway. I had driven it for roughly 30km and the engine was hot. Again, was able to start it it up for a couple of seconds if I let it cool for a couple of minutes. Got a lift home and returned in the evening and it started on the first try.
Took it to work the next morning. Wouldn't start in the afternoon when it had been standing in the sun and was gazing hot. Opened the fuel cap to release any vacuum. No change. Again started when I returned this morning and it wasn't very hot.
The engine warning lamp hasn't light up. Will try to see if there is a fault code tomorrow. Will try to measure the fuel pressure eventually.
The valve position sensor and timing belt was changed a year ago.
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So I have this super cool little green 2001 prius with a brand spankin rebuilt battery and it's running as well as I could have hoped.
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The other day I had been driving about 3 hours and truck went dead then back on, it happened two more times in about 30 minutes.
(2001 F 350 Dually 7.3 A/T 2 wd.)
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Wondering if this is just my car or something that's common with the Gen 1? After my car gets warmed up, just over 150F, the first stop or coast the engine will shut off. But unless I stop again and wait the 5 seconds or so for the engine to stop, I can't get it to shut off again down a hill or coasting. I need to stop, let it shut off, then after that all is good. Lift foot, engine off. Drives me nuts when I have a long hill and it doesn't shut off! (I'm using a scan guage II to watch the rpm and water temp)
Also a question on the steering, we took a 550 mile trip this past weekend, all interstate. Although it was a little windy, the car takes constant steering input to keep it in the center of the lane. It did get old after that many miles! Common problem? I read a little on the Gen2 having problems like that but the solution was dealer adjustments. The previous owner did have a new rack put in in 2008.
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