Ford A/C :: 2001 F250 - Air Sometimes Isn't Quite Cold Enough To Keep Cab At Comfortable Temp
Sep 14, 2009
I've been noticing lately that my a/c isn't what it used to be. Truck has about almost 90k miles. For the last year or so its been doing a lot of sitting but then within the last few months I've been on some long trips towing a trailer, often in 100+ degree temps.
On these trips the a/c sometimes isn't quite cold enough to keep the cab at a comfortable temp. I find my self putting it on Max AC setting more and more, which I've never had to do before. A lot of times it seem to be related to the outside temps and as I'm driving and notice the ac warming a bit, I will look up and see that its 100+ outside. Then other times it can be really hot outside and the ac is working fine, or vice versa. I noticed that it seems to happen when the engine is under heavy load as well.. 2001 F250
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2001 f250 5.4L v8. Engine temp seems really low. The gauge is reading barely above the cold in normal range. The heater is only blowing out 75 degree air at the warmest. It gets to its normal temperature with in 15 minutes even when its real cold out. I live in Minnesota and its been a really cold winter so having hot heat would be nice. I just bought this truck at the beginning of the winter. Whats going on?
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02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
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It's my 2005, 2.7l. auto trans, FWD.
AC stops blowing cold when the engine temp get hot. As long as the car is moving, it blows nice and cold. Also, when sitting the engine temp rises quickly and will over heat if you don't get moving.
Cooler fan on the inside of the radiator never kicks over to high mode as the temp goes up. I checked the fuses and the relay and both are good.
That leaves me with a bad fan? Correct? Also, what is the part number of the fan?
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I have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
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I have a 2010 RX350, I've tried to adjust it every way imaginable but regardless, after driving 20 minutes my right side of by back/leg begins to hurt.
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I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
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2001 F250 7.3l 294k miles
Ok so truck has always had difficulty starting cold since I got it about 12k miles ago. Replaced glow plugs, that made things slightly better but still no start unless temp gauge was in that first line above the C. Changed to Rotella, immediately after oil change starts better and at slightly colder temps.
Since getting the truck when you turn the ignition on you can hear a 'whistling' type noise which I believe is the fuel system pressurising. That used to last as long as the chimes did when you first turn the ignition on. More recently it lasts a lot longer.
Towed recently and had intermittent check engine light - believe this could be HPOP related, haven't checked codes yet as we're on vacation. No oil in the valley. But I do have a little oil carry over in the turbo intercooler pipes.
Truck slightly sluggish at setting off initially and then picks up reasonably well when not towing but my Dyno says I'm putting a bit more pedal to get the same performance from say two months ago
Pretty sure injectors haven't been changed since truck was new but can't be absolutely certain as there is no history. I was surmising this is probably both a HPOP and injector age issue but only from what I've found searching...
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Cold no start goes nowhere. I have a 2001 7.3 that will not start in the cold if I forget to plug it in....like last night. I have to plug in the block hater and give it a while before it will start. I tested the glow plug relay,it works fine. I can not find a test for the fuel bowl hear, and I'm not one to throw parts until I accidentally fix it. Any test procedure for the fuel bowl heater? Why this POS is so bad in the cold? Glow plugs tested fine at diesel shop in December, and this problem has been around since before that.
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My 2005 Prius is having a problem with the AC. It will only blow cold air if the temp is set at MAX COLD. Any other temp setting and it will blow hot air. Really hot air. It makes no difference what the outside or inside temps are. Is there a simple fix for this? I can control the AC by setting it on Max Cold and changing the fan speed, but I would like for it to work on the auto setting the way it is supposed to.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I recently replaced my alternator. I thought I was very careful not to make anything worse but now when I'm driving I have temperature issues. When stopping or slowing down my temp. gauge goes all the way to cold, then as I accelerate the temp gauge rises to the middle. It has not gone past the middle and has never done this before the repair. Also, the truck has never overheated or had any thermostat or cooling issues before.
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I have a 2001 Excursion Limited V10. 146000 miles 2 wheel drive. I have had it about a year and this is my first winter to really have experience with her.
When the outside temperature is very cold and the engine is cold from sitting all night, at start up, the oil pressure gauge reads nothing and the oil pressure/temp idiot light is on. Only does this during the first very cold start up or after sitting and engine getting very cold again.
I can drive just a short distance (2 blocks) and both gauge and light go to normal and stay there for the rest of my drive. I am using a quality 5/20 oil and filter and the level is good. Warmer days it has never happened. Truck runs fine, smooth idle, no "limp mode". She has not had any recent work done. All the other dash gauges read fine.
There is something about really cold temperatures that have to be causing the issue , I think. ??
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98 ford Ranger 2.5L.
I have not heat from the vents, doesn't get warm at all. If I idle the enginer in 30 Degree weather it gets to almost the C.
Upper Radiator hose is hot, I have verified the thermostat is new and it opens at 192 degrees as it should. Replaced the Water Pump, Fan spins freely.
I have attempted to burp the system, it isn't kicking out anymore air from the lines that I can tell. I used a large funnel and filled it with Anti-freeze, it filled the radiator, burped the system and the reservoir filled to overflowing. All with the engine hot. (To be specific the funnel was always full of fluid so no air could get sucked backwards)
The heater core hose on the left when looking from the front of the vehicle does not get hot, the one on the right gets warm. I theorize that the heater core is clogged up somehow and that is why that left line doesn't get hot. There is no fluid in the cab of the truck from the core.
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I have a 95 ford f350 when u run it with the heat on the truck temp gauge says its overheating the heat will go from nice and hot to ice cold as soon as the temp gauge goes up to the red. I replaced the thermostat also checked for coolant leak cant find any but truck has strong anti freeze smell and the radiator keeps going low on coolant.
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I am trouble shooting my temp gauge. I have a 1997 f350. I brought the truck a year ago and i have still not fix this problem. I install a new temp gauge and nothing changed. When ever the truck is running it reads cold and doesn't budge. Ive read that the gauge can be broken its self but during a few hot times over the summer. The gauge began to rise slower, never reaching normal temperature. A few times i messed with the heat and the gauge would shoot over the normal temp. The truck seems to run at a good temp sometimes hot though. The tube on top of the radiator is hotter than the bottom also.
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2001 F150 5.4 4wd - AC not working but when I turn the temperature dial to the blue side and turn on the fan, super hot air comes out of the vents or wherever I direct the fan to blow (Floor, defrost, etc) I know it shouldn't blow ice cold especially since my AC doesn't work but.....shouldn't I feel a temp change coming from the vents when I move temp dial from the red area to the blue? It's max heat wherever I have it set.
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My 94 Ranger 3.0L 5speed 2wd temp gauge is staying on the cold side but the heater is working good and I used a laser pointing thermometer at the thermostat housing and got 180* after running for a while and I also noticed that the fuel economy had gone down along with the power. I was getting 340 miles to a tank but now I'm getting 280 per tank.
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I have a 2002 F-350 6.8L, 4x4, crew cab, 8' bed, SRW, trailer tow pkg. I purchased it new in the fall of 2001. The truck currently has 54,000 miles on it (only gets used when I need to tow/haul something). It's kept in the garage and is in near showroom condition.
Everything on the vehicle is 100% functional except the transmission temperature gauge. Even when the truck sits for weeks, the needle will move to mid scale as soon as the key is switched on - haven't even started the engine yet! Put the scanner on it - no codes stored.
I'm attempting to trouble-shoot the TFT (transmission fluid temperature) sensor. Found some documentation online on the 4R100 transmission. It shows an electrical connector on the solenoid body with pins for the thermistor (so I can measure its resistance). However, I can't find a connector anywhere on my transmission that even remotely resembles the diagram I found online.
Question 1: When you first get in your vehicle and turn the key, does your tranny temp gauge read "cold" just like the engine temp gauge?
Question2: Does my truck have the 4R100 transmission? How can I verify that?
Question3: Looking for documentation on what connector and which pins are for the thermistor?
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I have '05 F250 King Ranch with EATC. I outside air temp doesn't update, it remains constant at the initial reading at start up. I have run the self test routine and the fault detect routine with no problems identified. The funny part is that after exiting the self test routines the outside temp seems to update normally, but after an ignition off time the problem returns. All other parts of the ETAC seem to be functioning normally.
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Above 0 Cel.(32F.) 145 F-165 F. even in summer towing. Winter when it gets -20 my trans temp gets warmer (not towing 165.F or higher) When it gets to -30 my trans temp gets to 175 F. or higher I have never looked at trans temps before on any vehicle that I have owned. I like that these trans get warmer when it is cold out and colder when it is hot out.
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