Ford A/C :: 2001 7.3 - Compressor Won't Turn On
Jun 28, 2011
My AC stopped working, not sure when as we hadnt used it since last fall and I tried it once over the winter to keep it lubed up.
Tried so far:
Pressure switch on the evaporator - wont turn on the compressor. Had the truck running with AC running(warm air) jumped the connector with no result.
Air clutch spacing - currently at .032 is this too much? If I read it right, it should be .020? Would that cause it to not engage at all? What would my next step be to try?
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Single air compressor pressure switch issue. New switch installed still same problem. When hot outside (90) compressor will turn off for several minutes then turn on. System blows cold when running with pressure 35/190. If I jump the pressure switch on the accumulator it runs full time fine no issues. Connect the switch and it will drop out while still running 35/190.
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Says A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
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2000 Explorer Sport with 4.0L SOHC engine. When I turn on the A/C the clutch on the compressor cycles off and on every 10-15 seconds. The A/C cools and the gas charge is checked as OK. Is this normal?
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT V6 (4.0 SOHC) with an AC problem. The AC compressor will not turn on via normal means - turn to AC or AC Max, rotate temp to left. It hasn't been a problem as I never use the AC, but I'm fixing a few of the minor inconveniences (dash lamps, re-solder radio) and figured, why not look at the AC too.
A while back my mechanic said he used the Explorer to test his AC equipment and made sure the Freon was good. He said everything was working. I am assuming he was able to control the AC system from his tools under the hood. This tells me the system is good and the problem is related to the temperature control or a switch somewhere.
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I have a 97 f150 5.4 4x4 a/c compressor and clutch. It won't let my motor turn over because the ac compressor is locked up bc the bearings are shot is there any way to by fix this until i get a new compressor and clutch....
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When I turn the control to heat the AC compressor kicks in. If turned to vent it does not kick in. Was this just a design flaw.
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I thought originally I had a leak so I tested with dual gauges I'm getting 85 psi on low and high side, which I believe is good. So I tried grounding the low sensor, then high sensor, then both, then both just pulled out and any combo possible. Still not engaging. Switched out the relay, checked fuses, still not engaging. Tried taking shim out of compressor still nothing. Jumped the relay and it will engage and air comes out cold. What should I check next?
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My wife has a 2010 Explorer 4.0 with 46000 miles on it. Yesterday the compressor started making a grinding noise when you turn the defrost on. It's only when the clutch kicks in. I'm hoping its something simple but, I fear its not.
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I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 4.0 L with what appears to be a unique a/c problem. Over the last week the compressor will not kick on immediately and seems to randomly decide when it is going to function. Once it starts, it runs properly and cools well, until I turn the engine off and it is back to square one. We have checked the coolant level and it is full. the problem seems to be getting progressively worse....At first it took about 15 minutes for it to decide to trip, then 30 minutes, and yesterday I drove for over an hour and the compressor never kicked on.
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I have a 2001 ford f150 with a 4.6 liter v8, my ac compressor is completely seized up, I can't afford to replace the ac right now. So I would like to just get a shorter serpentine belt to bypass the ac for now, need to get a measurement on the shorter belt for my engine? and the proper way to re route the belt without the ac?
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I have a 2001 Mazda B3000. The a/c compressor is coming on while I'm running my heat. The air coming out while the heat is on stays warm. However, when I was running the A/C during the summer the air would start blowing out warm after it had been on for a while. Several people told me it may have something to do with the blend door or blend door actuator but both appear to be working fine. What it could be?
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I have 2005 prius that has enough refrigerant in the system but will not turn on the compressor. I check the voltage coming out of the inverter going into the compressor and it is only 25 v.
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2002 Honda crv air compressor won't turn on. Fan relay was bad; fan turned on when relay bypassed but compressor still won't turn on.
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I have an issue with my 2003 golf 2.0 ac I've done everything that I cloud thing of to check but I still have this issue so here it is. The air coming out of the vents is warm, compressor Clush turn on but doesn't kick off. I hook up ac gauges and it reads 70 on low side and 155 on high side with an ambient temperature of 80. The system has freon, I check fans and they are on when compressor kicks in all relays and fuses are fine.
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I just got a 1986 190e. The ac seems to work but when I turn the fan on the compressor shuts off. Am I doing something wrong ?
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Seems like my 2001 f350 7.3 has an ac freon leak on pass side near compressor. AC is blowing coolish air but not cold like is should be. There is green like oil around main line leading out of ac compressor. I have attached several pics to illustrate situation.
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I have a 2002 Camry with an A/C problem. When I turn on the A/C, the A/C light flashes and the compressor does not spin. I have check the following:
1. The compressor is fully functional when I feed power to it.
2. The A/C fuse, 10A, is functional.
3. The Mag CLT relay is functional.
4. The cabin filter is new.
5. There is enough refrigerant.
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I have an 06 Sonata 4Cyl
My air conditioner has decided to stop working. The compressor wont turn on. This has happened in the past a handful of times but it has always come back either after changing my cabin air filter or just by itself after a few minutes. So far its been 24 hours and it still doesn't work.
From reading online, I'm thinking one thing to check is the Evaporator Temperature Sensor. It seems like that could explain the behavior in the past..
In the manual, it says "Pull out out the passenger's crash pad center low cover". Where is this?
After watching this video: [URL] .... I thought I knew where it was, but when I look in that location, I don't see any connectors.
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I'm driving a 2002 Santa Fe (4WD, 6-cyl) without AC. The problem is that the compressor is dead and needs to be replaced - it was diagnosed by both a Hyundai dealership and a local repair shop. I understand that when replacing the compressor, you want to replace the receiver/drier and expansion valve and clean the system to remove any metal shards in circulation. What is unclear is whether or not the condenser also needs to be replaced. This is complicated by the fact that the receiver/drier is physically a part of the condenser. While shopping around, some repair shops said I would have to replace the condenser as well, and others did not.
My questions are these:
- Can I just have the desiccant bag inside the drier replaced, or do I need to replace the entire condenser + receiver/drier unit?
- If replacing just the desiccant bag is an option, is it still smarter to replace the condenser as well in case there is compressor debris lodged in there that can't be flushed?
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I have a 2006 2.4l Santa Fe, has been diagnosed with failing ac compressor. Quoted exorbitant amount of money to replace. As far as I know, this vehicle was available without the ac option, and at this point I don't car if I have it or not, looking for the cheapest fix. Can I bypass with a shorter belt? Does it need to be removed completely, and if so, can it be done without affecting anything else?
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