Ford A/C :: 2000 - Installation Of Cab Air Filter?
Jul 21, 2005
Ok...my 2000 F-350 V-10 utility bed's AC smells like vinegar lately. And since I hafta run with the AC on these days (it's 97 outside here... ) the smell gets really annoying. I went and bought the correct cab air filter...but how do I install it? The manual says nothing about it. The little instruction sheet on the Fram air filter says it's under the glovebox, but I either can't recognize it or how to open it.
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I'm doing a trans service soon on a 99 F-150 (4.2 v-6 with a 4r70w) and want to add a Wix inline filter. Is the rubber section on the cooler return line 3/8"? I'm also thinking of swapping the stock trans cooler with one from a 2003 7.3 superduty.
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I have a 2000 F150 2WD 4.6L and been thinking of installing a tachometer to my dash. I did it to an '88 Ranger easy, It had A coil, distributor and regular spark plug wires. How would I go about this project I would like to undertake?
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Just changed transmission fluid and filter at 175,000 on my 2000 V-10 and now I have a whinnying sound and shifting that does not feel sure footed. It worked fine before the change. Fluid is synthetic and filter is Ford Motorcraft. Did it just go?
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2000 F350 with 340000 on it, have had it for the last 140000. It's an old service truck from south west gas with one owner in between them and me and he put about 5000 on it. I have the big cylinder open air filter, billet compressor wheel, 4" exhaust all the way and an Edge tuner. Don't have any codes I can pull with the tuner. Have been good to me so fare only need regular maintenance, but always had smoke out oil filler with a little pulse.
2500 ago I changed oil and add 1/4 of Lucas oil. 3 days ago when I started in the morning it smoked white smoke out the exhaust as a steam train and idle rough, but cleared up as I went down the street and will do so every time I start cold or warm. Ok, might need new GP, did that yesterday yet the same. Now I start checking stuff and have smoke out the oil filler as a steam train so the cap won't stay.
I know it sound like alot of problems, just try to verify some of them. The smoke out oil filler is blow by? The smoke on start up is that related to bad injectors? Can a bad injector dumping fuel create the blow by? Coolant level ok Transmission fluid level ok Engine oil Rotella T6 added 3 quarter in 2500 miles. I do not have a scanner or any other advance test tools.
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So there I was doing a simple oil change and when I took the filter out I noticed the little spring on top, in the center of the big spring (oil filter adapter) cocked to the side with the little plastic piece broken.
does anybody know if I can replace just the oil filter adapter (spring thingy that goes in the middle of the filter when installed) or do I have to replace the whole filter bowl assembly? And if so where would be a good place to get this part?
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Changing tranny fluid/filter today, all has been going great until I went to take the filter o-ring out that didn't come with the filter. It will not come out! made a hook tool out of an old tooth brush like someone on here did, o-ring wont budge. Tried a hook pick, it wont dudge (actually bent the tip on the pick and started to tear the o-ring). Everything is ready to go back together and get filled, but this stupid o-ring will not come out!
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On my previous 1992 F-350, when I serviced the E40D 2WD trans I replaced the filter during a trans service. I read about some filters falling down inside pan causing shifting issues. There is an aftermarket clip sold that holds the filter in the up position and prevents it from falling into pan.
Is the clip also used on the 2WD 4R100? is it the same issue of potentially falling down in pan as was the case with the E40D? Preparing to service my 2003 F-350 2WD 4R100 and install a new filter and want to be sure I have all parts/supplies ready to go.
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I have a 2000 f250 V10 CC 4x4 long bed. The rubber fuel line that has a quick disconnect to attach to the fuel filter along frame is leaking. This is on the filter side going to engine. Ford tells me fuel line not available. Dorman products tech assist can't tell me which connector of there's will fit my truck.
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This is my first 2000 Prius.
Speakers would be nice as they don't work. I want to install them myself/front door speakers.
pictures of the how 2 & what not 2 do.
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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My 2005 Accent will be due for a transmission oil change soon. (105,000.00mi). I have never done a transmission oil change before and I was wondering if it is necessary to change the filter as well. The maintenance manual says change the oil it does not mention the filter. I'm not crazy about removing the oil pan unless it is recommended.
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I have a 2000 passat. I recently acquired the car and the previous owner installed a cone filter. While driving the filter got chewed up into the wheel well and breaking. The car was running Decent without a Mass air flow but would run rich and sputter obviously. I parked the car at my cousins and decided it would make it home without the sensor the next day.
I proceeded to drive the car home. On the way home the car shut off on the 2nd lane - I was able to get off with the metro courtesy towing. The car has not started since. I checked the following
- Timing belt - Still intact and does not look damaged
- Fuel - I removed the feeder hose from the fuel rail and turn the key and got a huge squirt so fuel is good
- Checked for spark - Pulled out a spark plug and placed it on my coil and grounded the plug on valve cover - NO SPARK WHATSOEVER
- I checked the number 1 wire on the coil for power.
- I used a test light for this (no Ohm meter )
Placed test light on number 1 pin and got a light that dimmed immediately ( seems weak? i would assume it would be high output for the spark plug .
I also tried to find the motronic Power supply Relay. I looked in the box where the ECU is located on the driver side and found 2 relays next to the ecu, a black one , and a grey one ( which one is the power supply replay?)
But the only things that can cause my problem are
-Cam Position sensor
-Power supply relay
-ECU
-Crank Sensor
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I have a 1.8t and my coolant is leaking pretty fast. From what I can see it is coming from the oil filter area. I hope it is just an oil cooler O ring. What else it could be?
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I have a hyundai accent 2005 sedan (automatic transmission). The vehicle is a NON-US model. My gas consumption is approximately 7.3km per litre which is very high.
The spark plugs have been replaced , tires are at 30psi , and air filter is new. The spark plug cables are also new. The obdII device does not detect any issues and the engine check light is also off.
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Did my own 30k oil filter change today after taking it to the dealership for 10k and 20k. What do you know, they over torqued the crap out of the filter that I had to use my 1/2" breaker bar and all my strength to remove it. After all of that somehow the oil filter tool (the typical one) ended up getting stuck to the oil filter cap. It was at a slight angle so it must have shifted as I was trying to loosen it with the breaker bar.
Well, spent the next hour trying to separate them with no luck. Didn't want to damage the filter housing, and since the tool was stuck on there good just decided to put it back on with the tool attached. Any concerns about leaving it on, other than it randomly falling off one day?
Hopefully I'll still find the tool attached next time I change my oil, maybe pick up an extra oil filter cap and tool just in case. Btw I changed it myself at 5k before doing the free changes at dealership. Another reason I won't let them touch my car again...
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Trying to get myself up for the install of my RAS!
Have to finish watching the first set of games tho. (NFL Sunday Ticket)
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Or to put it another way - Yet another Hadley air horn installation. First up made a mounting bracket for the horns......to mount them on the frame.Then another bracket to mount the air tank, wiring and compressor. Finally fitted an illuminated switch to change from OEM horns to the Hadleys. This switch illuminates dimly with the parking lights and brighter when switched to the Hadleys.
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I'm running out of light and I need to find the Warn Hub installation thread.
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With snow on the ground all winter here (usually), and the summers getting into the 90's I was thinking about getting a remote start system. I know Viper is the big name but I just want something to start it, not do a bunch of prima donna functions I don't need. I normally do everything myself but electrical is not my forte and I hear that a DIY person can't get much info because they think only installers should do it. Also from what I gather, it takes a relay due to the transponder key. I am thinking $200 max and I hear Best Buy can do it all.
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