Ford A/C :: 2000 F350 System So Low That Compressor Would Not Come On / Warm Air Blown Out
Aug 21, 2012
My A/C was blowing warm air so I purchased a can of A/C PRO at a local parts store a couple weeks ago. My system was so low the compressor would not come on. I put a 20oz can in and the compressor started working. I let the truck idle for the recommended fifteen minutes, the air was not so cold anymore, and the gauge was reading low.
So, off I went to the parts store to buy another can. It is in the correct range on the gauge now. I was wondering how accurate the gauge was on this can so I had a friend hook up his professional A/C gauges and it was reading the same as the one on the can. I took the truck for an hour drive last weekend with the family to a lake for a picnic and noticed the A/C started blowing a bit warmer air, so I shut it off and rolled down the windows. I have noticed after all this my compressor does not cycle off and on, it just stays on even when the ambient temp is 65 degrees.
I checked the pressure yesterday and it is holding in the correct range still. I am wondering about the air gap in the clutch so I borrowed my neighbor's feeler gauges today and checked my air gap. It was about .037" so I removed the clutch and took out the only shim. Put it back together and it is .021" ran the truck and the clutch did not turn until I turned on the A/C, then it engaged. Hooked up my low pressure gauge and checked the pressure and it read 24 psi with the fan on low. The ambient temperature at this point is 70 degrees.
I put a meat thermometer in the vent closest to the steering wheel and after just a couple minutes, it was reading 40 degrees. I turned the fan on high and noticed the pressure went to 35 psi and the temperature in the vent started to rise. I turned the fan back down to low and the pressure dropped back to 24 psi and the temperature went back down to 40 degrees. I noticed the clutch still is not cycling it just stays running. I left the gauge hooked up to see what the pressure was off and it read about 94 to 95 psi.
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98 e150 - 4.6l, 185k, My air started blowing warm the other day. It worked perfectly fine. I checked the compressor to see if it was turning. Nope! I am wondering if it could be the clutch?
I replaced the alternator and changed the serpentine belt a couple of months ago and noticed a very slight whining sound sometime after I did this. I thought something might be going and just ignored it and said to myself, that's all the new tread in the new belt whining a little. Could be! not sure.
Anyway, where could I possibly start an easy procedure to see why the failure in the compressor not turning? Compressor is a lot harder to get at than an alternator!
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To start I have a 1991 super duty with a 7.3 in it. I replaced the evaporator, dryer and orifice tube. I added 4 cans of Freon and the a/c still blew warm so I added another can same result. I put one of the throw away gauges on the truck and it read empty so now I'm mad thinking it all leaked out only other option I could think of was to replace the condenser so went to break the lines to change it and Freon came spewing out so I tightened the lines back up and added another can of Freon still warm.
I got good gauges and hooked them up to high and low sides. High side was reading 100+ and low side was around 100 maybe a little lower. Oh yeah the compressor will come on and go right back off. So I let some of the Freon out and dropped the pressure down to 50 the high side was still a little below 100 so I let a little more out and now there is no Freon in the system again.
The lines never got cold and the dryer stayed warm the whole time. The first time I put Freon in before I started replacing stuff the dryer would get ice cold. My only thought is maybe the compressor is bad but I was told it was just replaced but Freon was never put in it. Oh and when I put the new parts in I replaced the orings in the compressor and put new oil in the compressor.
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With the few hot days we have had here lately, I have noticed that after about a minute the AC will go warm and I will have to rev the truck up when it does to get it cold again. It seems the compressor is disengaging. I noticed that the condenser has a big gash with a tube ripped open on top. I know it needs to be replaced, but could that be causing the compressor issues? It's a 2003 7.3L.
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1997 F150... What part of the control system tells the compressor to turn on and off? After not having air conditioning for a year or more I replaced the broken blend door.
When the a/c is turned on and the temp control switch is turned to cold, I get cold air. When I turn the temp control switch to warm, the air coming out of the vents is very warm. However when I do this I noticed that the compressor is still engaged. I think that at this point the compressor should disengage.
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Have a 2004 F350 dually diesel 6.0 - will now be replacing the passenger rear wheel seal for the third time in 8 months - replaced 12/2014 again in 6/2015 - took in for extensive engine pairs 7/8 got back 8/27 and have to replace the wheel seal again. Cannot figure out why blowing out so often - what to do to stop it from blowing out? Called the dealer and they were absolutely no support at all - mentioned something about a thicker seal?
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2005 FORD F350 Lariat 6.0, 61,000 miles, and in prestine condition. Just got the news the head gasket is blown! HOW DID THIS HAPPEN?!!! My mechanic says to scrap the whole engine because the 6.0 is the worst engine around. This truck should last for years!!!!!
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I have a 2005 F350 with 6.8L V10 with 135k on it. I bought the truck 2 months ago and have started fixing things slowly on it. It has started to get warm here in NY so it is time to get the AC working. I started out with fresh parts. New AC compressor loaded with clutch, New receiver/dryer, new orifice tube. removed old compressor which was completely missing the clutch on the compressor, pulley spun but the shaft is locked up. i installed all the new components and went to test the system to make sure the compressor clutch would work. There is NO R134a in the system, again wanted to make sure clutch would work before spending the money on putting the refrigerant in to the system.
I jumped the 2 pressure switches to fool the system into thinking that there was refrigerant, and no lock up, no power at the connector. i tried removing the jumper from the lower sensor, pluging it back in, leaving the upper jumped, and same result. i then swapped the jumpers again. no jumper on top, jumper on bottom. no dice. i check both sensor connectors and they both have power going to the sensors. I have checked the fuse in the fuse box in the cabin and everything is fine there, i have the proper 12v in and out of the fuse. i have checked the what i believe to be the WOT relay in the engine bay on driver side fire wall and wiring seems correct there.
I have tried to find information on the diode that is in the circuit but have pretty much found that either the fuses will blow or it should work. i could not find too much information on it honestly. Everything i found was relating to F150s or explorers. I am going to a friends shop tomorrow to vacuum and fill the system..
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I purchased an 89 F350 460 EFI factory air. The air worked fine for the first 6 hour on the drive home then It just stopped blowing cold. When I got home I saw the air gap on the clutch was quite wide so I took the washers out, still was too wide. I could only get the clutch to pull in if I tapped it in by hand and it only stayed in for a short time. This was all last fall.
Today I replaced the clutch, compressor and drier, took it in and had it charged. They replaced the pressure switch because the compressor cycle on and off. Even after replacing the switch it still cycles on and off and I still have no air! They removed some of the charge but still no air. The clutch pulls in and runs for 2 sec every 15- 20 seconds. I assume the reason it cycles is a high pressure. What should I be looking at now?????
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I have a 83 F350 with the 6.9 that I am trying to put back together. I am currently working on the A/C system and I and needing the A/C Bracket for the compressor.
I have found a few gassers and in my area but no 6.9s yet. So I was wondering if these brackets are interchangeable or not?
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I have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
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My 6.0 is cooling poorly . Clutch is engaging , condenser free of obstructions, static charge L95 , H. 105. Running psi at 94 ambient is 50 and 225. This morning with cooler ambient in mid 70's it was 40 and 200. I'm thinking compressor .
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My 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 A/C started blowing warm, so I checked all the fuses and they were good. Swapped the relays and still nothing so I check the wire to the compressor and it was reading 14v. This would lead me to believe the a/c clutch is bad, I didn't want to replace just the clutch incase my compressor craps out on me later on so I'm just replacing the whole thing now. My questions is how much oil does a new compressor need?
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I have a 02 f350 can not get power to a/c compressor have power at high pressure And low pressure can run a hot wire and ground to compressor and it works.
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The warm air came back again while I had my A/C on, after only a month from taking care of a leak and adding refrigerant. Cold air came back again after parking the car for few hours and also a day after.
My tech told me that the refrigerant level is fine and the problem might be within the compressor regulating valve or the unit it self. He recommended replacing the compressor.
Had a compressor failure or had a this problem and it went away after replacing only the regulating valve.
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I recently picked up a 2005 F350 6.0. I got it cheap with a plugged oil cooler, and went in planning to do studs, gaskets, and all the Ford updates just to have it out of the way. When taking it apart, I quickly noticed that the compressor was damaged. Looks to me like some foreign object(s) entered the turbo, would bounce off the wheel, impact the cover, and repeat.
Engine seemed to run great. Turbo spooled quickly and while I wasn't paying close attention, I'd glance when accelerating and it'd be in the neighborhood of 27 PSI. Engine cranks evenly and starts well, so there's no obvious engine damage. I'll inspect the bores closely with the heads off.
So my main question: Assuming no damage elsewhere, Do I need just a wheel? There is some pitting and high spots on the cover, but could it be carefully worked down with the cover removed? Do I just need to get a wheel and a cover? Or just a whole new turbo? Looking for a budget-friendly option to remedy this properly.
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Not sure what happened with my Accent. When I turn on the A/C the blue lights come on, but the compressor is not kicking in and it's blowing warm air. I checked my fuses under the dash and in the engine bay and they look good.
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Decided to put the AC on one day but nothing but warm air, observed compressor didn't cycle. Why this would suddenly occur and why?
Vehicle is a 98 tahoe.
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Trucks compressor kicks on and off and won't stay on no cold air at all do i have a leak ? The truck came whit a new canister that mounts in front of the air box could it be that?
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I have just installed air bags on my 2015 F350 DRW and looking for a location for the air compressor and control unit for the wireless manifold.
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2000 Excursion with the 5.4 in her. Lots of miles. Used only to tow a travel trailer. Blew out the #3 coil packet and spark plug today. Have to pull the head for sure. My question is why? Is there a more severe problem as to why it did this? Or is my old girl just worn out. 270,000 miles.
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