Ford A/C :: 2000 F250 Start Blowing Warm And Slightly Humid Air Then Suddenly Cold Air Come Back
Jul 25, 2015
I just bought a 2000 f250 diesel truck and am having problems with the ac. When I first turn on the ac it blows very cold and works perfectly but after about 5 or 10 minutes it will start blowing warm and slightly humid air for probably around 5 or 10 minutes and then suddenly the very cold air will come back. This cycle repeats over and over again and I'm not sure what is wrong.
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A/c is fully charged. Could be blowing cold one second, and blowing hot humid air the next.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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This problem has plagued me for a while(since last year). When I start the car in the morning, there's a brief period when the power steering is totally gone. When the car is thoroughly warmed up(after 2 minutes of driving), the power steering is back and there will be no problem. Wondering what could that be. The power steering fluid level is normal.
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This weekend was a nice high 80's low 90's. My AC is usually ice cold. However now that the weather hit that high, when we are in stop-and-go traffic, the AC starts blowing warm humid air. I do see the temperature need creep a bit higher than the normal range.
Once we start driving, after a few minutes, the climbs back down and the cold AC returns. Turning the fan speed down, or turning the compressor off, then on again, seems to work.
What could be causing this? A friend said he has this issue with his car claiming the engine is the issue, not being powerful enough to keep the compressor running right, is that possible?
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This problem is on my son's 2000 F-250 5.4. It's into October and my son tells me he has no heat coming out of his vents. I figure it has to be the control valve that should be in the heater hose lines. Could be jammed closed or a vacuum line has come off the pot that controls the open close cycle. We open the hood and nowhere can we see a coolant control flow valve. It is so tight and dark under all that mess of wires, intake, air conditioner lines and whatever.
Just where should we be looking for the valve. Also it could be the vacuum line is unplugged on the dash, behind the warm/cool selector. And even there is a possibility that some doofus has removed something. He bought the truck this summer. So to get us on the right path, where we start looking for the flow control valve?
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My 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
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To start I have a 1991 super duty with a 7.3 in it. I replaced the evaporator, dryer and orifice tube. I added 4 cans of Freon and the a/c still blew warm so I added another can same result. I put one of the throw away gauges on the truck and it read empty so now I'm mad thinking it all leaked out only other option I could think of was to replace the condenser so went to break the lines to change it and Freon came spewing out so I tightened the lines back up and added another can of Freon still warm.
I got good gauges and hooked them up to high and low sides. High side was reading 100+ and low side was around 100 maybe a little lower. Oh yeah the compressor will come on and go right back off. So I let some of the Freon out and dropped the pressure down to 50 the high side was still a little below 100 so I let a little more out and now there is no Freon in the system again.
The lines never got cold and the dryer stayed warm the whole time. The first time I put Freon in before I started replacing stuff the dryer would get ice cold. My only thought is maybe the compressor is bad but I was told it was just replaced but Freon was never put in it. Oh and when I put the new parts in I replaced the orings in the compressor and put new oil in the compressor.
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I have a 2000 Chevy S10 V6 with 176,500 miles that won't start when weather is cold and damp or hot and humid. I've checked distributer cap, spark plug wires, ignition module, and replaced crankshaft position sensor because of a high resistance reading on the sensor (14.17 Megaohms). I've never had any fault codes. What else can I check before I decide to junk the truck.
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Blows cold, so not a freon issue, but it will sometimes just suddenly stop blowing cold as if I punched the "A/C" button disengaging the compressor. Sometimes if I just wait a while it will come back on by itself, sometimes I have to stop and shut the truck clear off and take the key out, then start it back up and all is well again and it blows cold again.
High pressure switch failing???
BCM issue???
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The front a/c blows cold air but the 2nd row and back blows warm. Yes the temp dial is on cold on both dials. Is there a separate a/c clutch that I dont know about to ck the air gap? Is there a separate port to put freon in besides the front. I need to get this fixed because with my bulldogs in the back the heat will kill them.
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I have a super duty with the 5.4 in it. it just quit while off road n wouldn't start back up. pulled it back to camp, wiggled wires around cam n crank sensors n it fired up n stalled numerous times then just wouldn't even fire back up. loaded on trailer n brought home, buddy put his tester on there n said there was no rpm reading so I replaced the crank sensor, it fired up n stalls still. wires seem to be good to crank n cam sensors. don't have a manual to tell me what relays are what.
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My car is not blowing warm air at idle when warmed up. When under load driving the heat comes back then chills down when stopped at a light or traffic. I did a coolant flush by fill and gravity drain earlier this summer and have had zero issues with overheating or anything else. Could there be air in the heater core or is my water pump or thermostat failing?
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Recently, my 1995 Bonneville SSE randomly will stall. No hesitating, no surging, no rough running, just DIE. This happens while driving, stopped at traffic light, warm / cold, Whenever the mood stikes it!
It always (so far) starts right back up. So far it has not tripped a code or caused any service lights to stay on. I've cleaned the battery posts and don't know what else to do.
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Well, my saga continues on my intermittent AC problem on my 99 f350 v10. As before, the AC blows cold but mysteriously stops working on occasion when climbing a grade or stopping at a light in warm weather. I bought a gage kit and runs ~ 45/250psi on the low/high gauges. Clutch is stopping and the metal tube from the accumulator tank runs warm when this occurs.
Seems like the problem occurs when the under hood temp reaches a certain level. Thought it might have been one of the switches but the pressure seems to be OK when these problems are occurring. What/how to check to find the problem? some of my thoughts are:
1. Wire a light in the clutch engagement circuit to see if the problem is in the compressor clutch coil not working when powered up or some heat related failure of the wiring continuity.
2. Check the Hi and low pressure switches for continuity when this is happening. to do this I need to know a few things- location of the high pressure switch low press in on the accumulator) and whether the switch should be open or closed in normal operation. Also can the switches be replaced without losing the charge in the system?
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My 2000 F-250 6.8L V10 has a choppy idle during the first 30 or so seconds after a cold start up in the morning then it smooths out and drives perfectly. If I were to place the truck in gear during the choppy idle, it would not die and throttle response would be fine.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and checked the PCV elbow for cracks (no cracks). It idles at about a 1000 rpm during a cold startup then drops to about 750 rpm according to the dash tachometer. The truck has 187,000 miles on it.
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My Prius has 198K, runs great and has been trouble free. This week it started acting up. The AC will run for a few minutes, blowing very cold, then will blow warm air for a period of time, perhaps 10 minutes, then will blow cold again for a few minutes. It will repeat this several times, then will blow cold until the end of the trip, about another 30 minutes.
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I have a 2000 e150. The front ac blows cold. The back ac blows hot. One unit though. What could be the issue?
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We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
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I bought this 06 Prius in April and it has been a nightmare. I have an 05 and thought "I love this car so much, I want another!". I didn't do a good job inspecting the car before I got it, but oh well. Here we are at the dealership because my Driver side AC was blowing warm and the passenger side was nice and cool. $300 later, they call me up and say they have drained all the Freon because theres an obstruction causing the pressure on the high side to get so high that the compressor purge valve has to kick in and their AC machine shut off to protect the car.
He said it would cost 1700 to replace the Expansion Valve and the Receiver Drier, and that they weren't positive that would fix the issue, but that its the first step before replacing the Compressor. He said normally they'd suspect the compressor is going out, but he said it appears to be operating okay. Their opinion was that there is an obstruction in the line - most likely some sort of metal - which is causing the obstruction and the pressure on the high side to go to extreme levels.
Pressure on the low side he said was okay.
Here is the text from the service receipt:
Performed A/C inspection and all vents appear to operate fine. No leaks seen. Lots of debris in front of the condenser. Suspect system low on Freon. Perform evac and recharge. Installed dye.
Pressures:
High: 130psi
Low: 15psi
Used 1.1lbs of freon then noticed the restriction. Removed freon. recommend replace expansion valve receiver dryer, flush lines and replace all necessary o rings.
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2004 pontiac grand am, after driving and shutting off the car, it will not restart or stalls out while waiting at traffic lights. When I try to restart the car, all I get is clicking sounds, only does this on warm or hot humid days. The dealer told me to just hold down the gas pedal and crank the engine till it restarts. I have tried the turning on the key for a minute, wait, then turn the key back off, and then to restart, but that doesn't work either. If I wait for a good ten minutes, the car usually starts. When I turn on the key I do hear the fuel pump kick in. I have replaced the fuel regulator, ignition switch, keys, computer chip in the ignition system, battery, and starter- twice. I have heard that it could be a crankshaft sensor? No codes are showing up when this happens.
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