Ford A/C :: 2000 Expedition - No AC At All / All Vents Blowing Hot Air
Aug 17, 2010
On my 2000 E.B. I have NO A/C at all. All vents on the dash, regardless of vent, floor, defrost, ETC all blow hot air, even with the A/C on Max A/C. Also, all the rear vents for the rear HVC blow WARM air as well. I have no A/C in the back either. I don't hear any flopping around under the dash going down the road and I have checked the A/C compressor with the unit on Max A/C and the clutch appears to be engaged and the compressor appears to be operating normally.
I have NOT YET checked the A/C lines or dryer to see if they get cold, I will check that tonight, but I expect them to be getting cold because the Compressor does not cycle on and off, it stays running pretty much all the time. It clicks off once and again, but not very often at all (such as the case would be if the system was low on freon).
So, if the A/C lines are getting cold (if they are not, I will know my problem is compressor related, likely anyway), what this problem could be? From what I've read, if the Front blows hot, yet the rear blows cold, it's a blend door actuator or broken blend door, but that is not my problem. I have no A/C at all, everything blows hot.
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My mother's 2000 E150 van isn't blowing any air out of the vents. It doesn't work on high. I can detect a small amount of air coming out of the defrost vents and the floor vents when it is on high. I just replaced the resistor after finding that it had melted and still no air. My mother said that the a/c would go on and off when she hit bumps.
Do you think maybe the fan isn't grounded so the resistor overheated and caused melting in the resistor plug? The plug looks exactly like the one in the middle of this webpage. Same pin melting location also. Ford Blower Motor Resistor Pigtail Replacement...
I ran out of time to work on my moms van because I am in law school and live 2 hours away. Assuming ground, blower, and fuse are all good (I'm checking those friday), what else could be the problem?
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I took my 2000 V6 Passat into the shop because my heater vents were blowing cold. They tested the system and told me the following:
The hoses leading to the heating core are warm, but no warm air is leaving the heater core, indicating that it's plugged up with corrosion. They testing the coolant fluid and found that the incorrect coolant had been put into the system and that the fluid was carrying an electrical charge that must be corroding the aluminum portions of the system. In addition, the engine temp sensor is kaput and never goes up.
They offered a garden hose flush the heating system for a few hundred bucks, but warned that it is only 50% successful. They recommend replacing the heating core.
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The town car will not switch its blower position from dash down to the vents or the floor. AC/Heat both work and the speed is still adjustable.
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The AC was blowing hot air. But then we noticed that we could hear a flap closing. So the game has been, to keep it cold, to stop somewhat abruptly, then turn on the AC, then DO NOT accelerate quickly or you will hear the "shut" which makes the air turn hot.
Now, I have gone to auto zone and bought two things: Air Door Actutator, and Blend Door Repair Kit, both supposed to be for 1999 Expedition. I don't yet know which I need. I am looking to do the fix through the glove compartment which I understand is possible, although no one mentioned it here back in 2004.
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I have a 2001 Ford Expedition with the 5.4L engine. I know that there are problems with the engines blowing out spark plugs. Besides putting in sleeves and replacing the cover when necessary, any good luck with a different alternative. If not what products with the above options seem to give you the most bang for your buck.
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Last week my 99 Expedition w/ 130,000 miles overheated. Air stopped blowing cold, then blew REALLY cold momentarily, Temp. went to high, check engine light on, car wouldn't accelerate. Was a block from home - put it in neutral and got home. Let it cool down. Checked all fluids, etc. Took it to our family mechanic - been our mechanic for 5 years - could find nothing obviously wrong so he cleared the code. Car ran fine for a week then temp started to rise again yesterday. Only common thread...the rear air was on both times. Once we were highway driving, other time in stop/go traffic. Replaced the thermostat last year.
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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This fuse controls the interior lights, power windows, and the brake pedal shifter release. I noticed the problem when the vehicle would not shift out of park.
I replaced #15 fuse (5amp) and everything worked fine however several hours later with the vehicle simply parked the fuse blew again.
Appears to be a "short" of some kind but it seems to take several hours for the fuse to blow.
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My 2001 E350 van's factory rear A/C is not working. Front A/C and heat is fine. Regardless of front control position for rear, heater stays on all the time unless I turn it off with the rear control. No air is blowing from the rear A/C vents, only from the rear heater vent. This isn't a big problem right now, but will soon be an issue. I use this van for my sales route, carrying a lot of temperature sensitive snack products. I don't have an owners manual, and the Haynes manual has no info at all regarding the rear A/C.
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I started feeling a slightly rough idle three days ago and yesterday the check engine light illuminated. When we read the OBD, it indicated a Cyl #1 misfire. Question is this. Can I replace a single coil pack (1/cyl), or do I ahve to replace all 8 as a set and why? 2000 Ford Expedition 5.4 L cyl misfire.....
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I'm chasing a SES light on my mothers expedition. It had bank 1/2 lean and the 4 o2 sensor codes. So I put a fuel pressure gauge on it. At idle it fluctuated between 31-35 (rose and fell with a rough idle) as engine rise/falls. Rev it up to 15-1700 an pressure falls to 29-30, unplug the regulator and it pegs at 40 no matter idle-2000 rpm... does those numbers sound right?
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When i turn my heater on, the ac come on instead. It does not matter what position any of the dials are on as soon as I turn the blower on the ac comes on. I do not see anything obviously wrong with the controls. All turn as they should nothing is striped. I have the 3 dial control setup no auto heater controls at all. and nothing is digital.
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As the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
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I just had a bunch of work done on the engine of my 96 f250 7.5 v8 460 and now whenever I'm going up hill, my air conditioner stops blowing from the vents and after I get back of a level ground it starts blowing again. What it could be?
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OK.. 2005 F150 Lariat. Air conditioner worked on the way to work, went to drive home, air not blowing out the 4 main dash vents. Blows cold out the feet, and redirect SEEMS to be working, just not blowing at all out the main vents in the dash?
Even if you adjust the temp to where it should be blowing warm/hot air, it will not blow out the main vents.
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I had my SUV (2000 Ford Expedition) tuned up. I'm losing about 1-2 quarts of coolant every couple of days. While I was having the tune up done, I asked the mech to try to find where the coolant is going. He couldn't. He did say that they'd pumped the system up to 18 lbs (it's got a 16 lb cap) and it held for 45 minutes, so I'm a little (little-little) less afraid that it's my head gasket. Questions are these:
1. Could my 16 lb cap be at fault? It got pretty gunky when I mixed the coolants (see my post - Don't cross the streams).
2. Could my rear heat exchanger be leaking and where would the coolant come out? It's got rear air and heat that's controllable form the second seat.
I never see water on the ground or dripping. No white exhaust to detect. Doesn't run rough at all at startup. In other words, none of the traditional head gasket indicators.
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2000 Expedition. If speeds are under 40 mph and the air temp is above 85, my AC does not seem to work well. On the highway, it seems to work very well. Recently replaced with no change in performance:
Fan clutch
Water pump
Radiator
I've also degreased and hosed out the condenser. The AC system has been checked (by a friend with a set of gauges- but is not a professional) and a small amount of refrigerant was added. Still no improvement. Any obvious other things to check?
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My 02 V-10 Ex seems to be blowing Air from the front vents up to the Defrost unless it go through a series of events-- Hit Auto then forward Air then the fan has to be a 4 only. It will blow forward vents then go back and forth from theirr to the defrost. Also the Temp seems to be much hotter then it should.
Took a interstate trip this weekend though and it seems to blow much colder and do a little bit better staying in the front vents however still goes back and forth. Im in FL and its HOT!!!! The only thing I know is that its a vacuum system.. and that again its HOT in the truck as a daily driver.
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I had my entire A/C unit converted to R-134 on my 93 F-250. This was the entire system done at a FORD dealership. I've got about 1000KM on it, mostly this past winter. I noticed a few weeks ago when i turned the A/C on that the air seemed to be only blowing air, like vent. It was not air conditioned. I ran it for 15 min or so before suddenly there was a blast of really cold air and it held strong until i turned the truck off.
I cannot reproduce the results again, however. I can tell that the compressor kicks in like before, meaning it seems to be working mechanically fine. The temp outside has been at or just above freezing. Would this have any effect on the A/C? Should I park this is a heated parade or something to test it? What to test/check prior to bringing to the dealership?
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Having a problem with my 2000 Expedition AWD/4WD. When I'm braking to a stop, there's a metallic clicking coming from my LR wheel. Doesn't matter if brakes are applied or it's rolling free. Starts at about 8 mph and stops at around 2-3. Had a broken parking brake cable, but clicking is still there after replacement. What's next? Wheel speed sensor, perhaps?
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